vermouth -- still kicking?

[john@thebar]

Back in the late 60's when I first started STIRRING martinis in NYC a bartender would be canned on the spot for shaking (read:bruising) a martini. In any event, the quality standard at the time was and IMHO remains today: J. Boissiere Dry Vermouth. It costs more than any of the abovementioned but since Boissiere actually invented dry vermouth they deserve the extra money in the same way other alcohol products like Cointreau, Der Laks (sp?) Goldwasser and Bailey's to name a few, get their props by charging more. The nose and taste are lovely, delicate and complex. And as far as the proportion of vermouth to gin or, much more recently, vodka is concerned: if you're the one paying for the martini, order it any way you like it!

Edited July 1, 2004 by john@thebar (log)

[DrinkBoy]

...cocktails in America were essentially devised to mask the poor quality of most alcohol prior to, and then obviously during, Prohibition...

There is some truth to that, however it would be more appropriate to say that "mixed drinks" were created as a way to mask poor quality alcohol.

"Spirits" were once seen as a "compact" way of delivering alcohol. By most accounts, "Brandy" was invented in an attempt to dehydrate wine before shipping, with the expectation that you could simply re-introduce the water to it once you delivered it, and voila! wine... right... that didn't quite work out as they expected.

For a long time, the spirits created from distillation were harsh and with poor quality control. But since they were so concentrated, it made it easier to ship barrels to the "public houses" around the country, where they would add various things to it in order to bring it to a similar strength as the local wines or beers (which also weren't necessarily of the same quality that we have today).

The dates we are talking about above range from the 1400's until perhaps the 1700's. Over these hundreds of years, the quality of beer, wine, and spirits would be gradually increasing as the process was fine tuned.

The cocktail was "invented" around 1800, and by then the "mixed drink" had grown up, along with the spirits they were made from, to be a far more distinquised, if not respected concoction. The quality of the spirits being used wasn't as good as we have today, but they were accepted as being quite good for the day, so it was no longer a "necessity" to mix with juices and such in order to create an acceptable drink.

It is in fact probably the emergance of the cocktail that proves that the spirits were now quite drinkable, since prior to this time most of the mixed drinks would include a significant quantity of juice, water, soda, or other non-alcoholic ingredients. The cocktail on the other hand was one of the first mixed drink that was made almost exclusively of liquor.

During the 1800's it was quite common for the bartenders to make many of their own cordials and such. In some cases they would even "make" whiskey, rum, gin, and brandy. In the first bartenders manual ever printed ("How To Mix Drinks" by Jerry Thomas, 1862) it includes a second section entitled "Manual for the Manufacture of Cordials, Liquors, Fancy Syrups, &c, &c" which along with recipes for the aformentioned cordials and syrups, it also includes a recipe for "Domestic Gin" (3 drachms of oil of juniper; dissolve in 5 1/4 gallons of alcohol, 95 percent; add 4 5/8 gallons of water and 1/2 gallon of white plain syrup), and later on a recipe for Irish Whiskey (3 gallons of genuine Irish whiskey; 7 gallons of best pure spirit, mixed) with the footnote of:

"Without large distilleries these whiskies - Irish and Scotch cannot be manufactured with profit. It is a humbug to make them with essences, and a nuisance as regards to health. The best imitation is mixing in proportion to the price"

So while the quality of spirits overall were definately improving, there would be a lot of variation from place to place. Some would use the true spirit, some a "watered down" version (as seen above), and it would also still be possible to find people "manufacturing" their own spirits using essences, or even non-essences just to produce a "similar" flavor. But such "humbugs" were on their way out, thanks both to increased manufacture as well as better access to shipping.

Over the decades that would follow, the overall quality of the spirits, as well as the cocktails that were made with them, would continue to improve, which can be easily seen by how popular the "Cocktail" would become.

But then comes prohibition, which would send us back to the "Dark Ages" and remove all of our hard won knowledge and understanding of the cocktail as a culinary experience. For essentially a generation (in drinking terms) we would come to view cocktails as simply a "party tool", and no longer the culinary libation it had become. We are still suffering from the impact that this decade wrought upon us.

-Robert

[cdh]

Vermouth is good stuff. Nobody takes it seriously except maybe the people who make Vya and King Eider... but that's not a bad thing, as far as I'm concerned. If there were no vermouth there would be no way for people to brag about how dry their martinis are.

A dry vermouth over ice is lovely. Add Orange Bitters for a real treat.

Does anybody know what sort of wine it is based on?

Sweet vermouth, on the other hand, does nothing for me. Always tastes oxidised and musty on its own... I use it solely for mixing.

[beans]

If I made a variation on the cosmo and called it a _______-tini, at least then other bartenders would have an idea of what it is.  I blame it on the neat category thing that is an essential part of the multitasking demands of being a bartender.  Sure I could name it, say a "Starry Night" but who else would know what that is?  Including my fellow co-workers let alone another bar or in another city!  

Presumably, however, the other bartenders would have to have some way of knowing what it is anyway, right? I mean, if you made a drink called, say, a "blossomtini" or a "s'mortini" I can't imagine that they'd have any useful idea how to make one without some kind of recipe from you. It strikes me that, for example, Audrey Saunders isn't having this issue at Bemelmans.

Not that I am saying the -tini thing is right or correct, but to one who pours for a living, it does make some sense.  And I don't feel that it has bastardised the word "martini" either.  

Well, of course there is always going to be a certain take that will figure more from a sales-minded commercial/professional standpoint than it will from a connaisseur/enthusiast standpoint. And clearly there is no well-defined right or wrong in either of these positions. Personally, I think it makes plenty of sense to name a drink a "_____-tini" or a "_____ martini" if it is recognizable as a riff on the martini (others have mentioned a vodka-and-sake "saketini," for example). However, I have great regret over the number of cool cocktail names we have missed out on due to either user-friendly commercialism or lack of interesting ideas. After all, it's quite likely that, if it had been invented today, an up Margarita would be known as a "Mexican Martini" or "Tequillatini."

Can we ever escape this same old recycled recreation of the wheel arguments about language and martinis?

Sam it may not make any sense to you but I, along with many other bartender that memorize hundreds of drink recipes, have neatly categorised ways to remember them (long drinks, muddleds, collinses, fizzes, daisies, martinis, etc). Even some POS systems will have a what would be considered a martini "fast sale" screen. To that end the ________-tini helps.

_____-tini tells me about the glassware, that it will undoubtably require extra attention to garnish, in a group order it will be the first to "set up" and last to pour and will take an over all longer amount of time to pour (unlike a rum and coke, etc.).

While nearly any drink can be served chilled and up, that doesn't mean I'm an advocate of tacking on the -tini or that is the appropriate way to serve same. I think we are looking at the same thing in two different lights. I'm just not sure where the line is drawn.

[beans]

...cocktails in America were essentially devised to mask the poor quality of most alcohol prior to, and then obviously during, Prohibition...

There is some truth to that, however it would be more appropriate to say that "mixed drinks" were created as a way to mask poor quality alcohol.

Thank you for that post Robert.

[jbonne]

Does anybody know what sort of wine it is based on?

a darn good question, and one i see nothing around to answer. even this item, which covers nearly every other issue surrounding vermouth, simply concludes the base is a dry white wine. winemaking guides seem to generally reach the same conclusion.

i'm going to poke around a bit on this, as i have a feeling there must be more than one varietal that's acceptable for use.

[jbonne]

There is some truth to that, however it would be more appropriate to say that "mixed drinks" were created as a way to mask poor quality alcohol ...

this is very much appreciated. i stand corrected, or perhaps clarified.

[Chef Shogun]

recipe for Irish Whiskey (3 gallons of genuine Irish whiskey; 7 gallons of best pure spirit, mixed)

I'd have to check the dates, but Mr. Thomas may well have invented the recursive algorithm right there!

[fatdeko]

Such a rich and tangential thread we have going here.

I hope I can further mess up its questionable taxonomic virtue.

Firstly, regarding the wines of "vermouth"

For French Vermouth, the wines traditionally came from the Midi so we're talking about PicPoul and Clairette. Depending on the producer, some of these vineyards may have given way to Viognier, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc etc.

For Italian vermouth, we're still talking white grapes, mostly regional Apulian varietals and/or some Moscato. Again, these are traditional generalizations. Individual producers may have something else going on.

Of course, with Vya and King Eider, your mileage may vary.

So I was at Cocktails in the Country a couple of weeks ago and I shoulda got a picture. Side by side, the 2 (known) extant copies of the Hoffman House bar books were being pawed by the other's owner. Kewl. Very Kewl.

BUT! I had also brought along an odd, undated pamphlet which I thought was a prohibition-era bootlegger's recipe book.

Gary, of course, set me straight by speculating that it was turn of the century because the recipes were too exact. Bootleggers wouldn't have measured in drachms.

Towit:

IRISH or SCOTCH whiskey

To 40 gallons proof spirits add 60 drops of creosote, dissolved in 1 qt of alcohol; 2 oz acetic acid; 1 lb loaf sugar. Stand 48 hours

AND:

Bourbon Whiskey

To 100 gallons pure proof spirit, add 4 oz pear oil; 2 oz pelargonic ether; 13 drs. oil of wintergreen disolved in the ether; 1 gallon wine vinegar, color with burnt sugar.

Back to the question at hand:

I'll often disregard a customer's specification about the dryness of his/her martini IF I get the impression that they're ordering by rote. Adding that smooch of vermouth is an eye opener to these folks, and they won't be able to put THEIR finger on it, but they'll usually exclaim how this martini is the best they ever had. Some of the others, they actually know how they like their martinis and I'll follow their specs. How do I know the difference? You just do.

I've got one guy, comes in once a month or so, and loves an upside down martini, on the rox in a pint glass--"Gimme 3 oz of vermouth, splash of Tanqueray. If you think you're doing it wrong, you're on the right track." The first time he ordered it this way I gave him a wink and delivered it with the Angostura bottle on the side. He grinned and shook my hand in a manner reminiscent of Freemasons or other conspirators tacitly aknowledging a fellow traveler.

One of my partners behind the bar was overheard having this exchange:

Customer: I'm new to this Martini business, so forgive me if I don't know the Lingo.

Bartender: No sweat my good man, I promise to be gentle.

Customer: How would I order a Vodka Martini without vermouth?

Bartender: You'd say, "Gimme a Double Vodka straight up w/ olives"

Customer: (Skeptically) Okay. Can I have that?

Bartender: No. Have a martini instead. You can thank me later.

[jbonne]

Firstly, regarding the wines of "vermouth"

For French Vermouth, the wines traditionally came from the Midi so we're talking about PicPoul and Clairette. Depending on the producer, some of these vineyards may have given way to Viognier, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc etc.

For Italian vermouth, we're still talking white grapes, mostly regional Apulian varietals and/or some Moscato. Again, these are traditional generalizations. Individual producers may have something else going on.

Of course, with Vya and King Eider, your mileage may vary.

incredibly helpful -- thanks!!

[fatdeko]

Jbonne,

Before you go on Jeopardy or Millionaire with that info, please realize there's a caveat lurking between the lines, and its probably on a Union Negotiated Smoke Break. The wines/varietals mentioned are TRADITIONAL and generalized. You'd have to check w/ Noilly Pratt, M&R, Stock, Carpano and the rest to discover what each House is doing/using.

While it takes a long time from harvest to bottle, things DO change in Vermouth Town

[slkinsey]

Vya says they use Colombard and Orange Muscat in their Extra Dry, and Orange Muscat, Colombard and Valdepenas in their Sweet.

[mrbigjas]

A few things:

1. Cherries are in season here. Last night I pureed some of them, and made a aperitif with some puree and about twice as much each of Noilly Prat and bitter lemon soda. It was just amazingly good. I wonder if that's already a cocktail.

2. I got the idea because I was reading a Mario Batali cookbook, and he mentioned that an Italian aperitif he likes is fruit puree in sweet white vermouth. I haven't seen sweet white vermouth, besides Lillet. Any recommended brands?

3. I order martinis with a decent slug of vermouth in them. I usually just say, Bombay martini, up, and don't skimp on the vermouth. I wonder if I should modify that.

[slkinsey]

2. I got the idea because I was reading a Mario Batali cookbook, and he mentioned that an Italian aperitif he likes is fruit puree in sweet white vermouth.  I haven't seen sweet white vermouth, besides Lillet.  Any recommended brands?

Most of the Italian brands of white vermouth are relatively sweet. Vya also works well. All you need to do is put some white vermouth and ripe fruit (peach works great) into a shaker with some ice, shake well and strain out into an ice filled glass with a twist.

3. I order martinis with a decent slug of vermouth in them.  I usually just say, Bombay martini, up, and don't skimp on the vermouth.  I wonder if I should modify that.

Why would you modify it? "Don't skimp on the vermouth" is exactly what one often needs to say in order to get a real martini these days. You might think of trying different brands of gin, though, just for variety (although I don't think Bombay Sapphire is very interesting).

[jbonne]

Jbonne,

Before you go on Jeopardy or Millionaire with that info, please realize there's a caveat lurking between the lines, and its probably on a Union Negotiated Smoke Break.  The wines/varietals mentioned are TRADITIONAL and generalized.  You'd have to check w/ Noilly Pratt, M&R, Stock, Carpano and the rest to discover what each House is doing/using.

absolutely. i'm thinking i'll likely be writing about vermouth at some point soon, so i'll probably chat with at least a couple of those folks and will query them on what they're using.

incidentally, i found Vya at my favorite bar the other night, and convinced my favorite bartender to make me a more or less classic martini with it. beautiful aromatics and it was the perfect compliment to the botanitcals in the gin.

also discovered who distributes it here in WA, so i can now hunt some down for my home bar.

sadly, he acknowledged even he uses just a drop of vermouth in his standard martinis now. this explains why i never liked the martinis there before.

he did, however, strongly endorse the Vya sweet on the rocks, which was an excellent idea. as one of my drinking companions noted, more like a lovely oloroso than a sweet vermouth. though maybe that's just selling vermouth short.

[JAZ]

I haven't seen sweet white vermouth, besides Lillet. Any recommended brands?

You could try Martini & Rossi Bianco. It's nice on the rocks or with a splash of soda, and I imagine it would work well with fruit. In fact, maybe I'll puree some of the plums dropping off my neighbor's tree onto my steps and try it.

[mrbigjas]

3. I order martinis with a decent slug of vermouth in them.  I usually just say, Bombay martini, up, and don't skimp on the vermouth.  I wonder if I should modify that.

Why would you modify it? "Don't skimp on the vermouth" is exactly what one often needs to say in order to get a real martini these days. You might think of trying different brands of gin, though, just for variety (although I don't think Bombay Sapphire is very interesting).

I should clarify: many bars--including a local bar where I know the bartender knows how to make a good martini--only carry the standard four of Boodles, Beefeater, Tanqueray and Bombay. And of those four, I like Bombay the best. But I agree: not Sapphire.

If I see other brands up there next to them four on the top shelf, I do switch it up. I'm all about variety after all.