LCB Brasserie Rachou

[SobaAddict70]

I think what Ya-Roo was trying to say was that the idea of the cuisine at LCB Rachou doesn't quite fit her style.

That's perfectly fine. As Mr. Bruni noted in his DJ review,

Mr. Rachou is not fussing with French staples or fusing them with other types of cuisine, in the fashion of the times....He is not trying to give the brasserie a funky, glamorous or youthful spin, à la Balthazar or Pastis.

He is betting that the brasserie's traditional virtues and dishes are timeless.

Whether or not the restaurant will work in this day and age remains to be seen. At least we can applaud M. Rachou for trying.

Soba

[Bond Girl]

May be my palates got screwed up in my ripe old age, or may be it was an off night.  I was sick with the cream sauce and butter from that place.  I simply don't find the food modern enough, everything there seemed too excessive.  While the road of excess may lead to the palace of wisdom according to some, this one is morelikely to land you in some cardiologist office without the taste to make up for it.

It's very easy to compose a meal at LCB with little (or no) cream or butter in it, just as easy to compose a low carb meal. I can't see how ordering a raw platter and steak there is any different than at other brasserie/bistro places in the city. Looking back at a meal there, there was only one dish out of four that had any cream in it.

I think you're trying to push an idea here of some imaginary modern, healthy cuisine, where flavor is obtained without the use of luxury ingredients or fat, but when you look at dishes served in top nyc restaurants, you'll see that idea has little to do with reality.

That really isn't what I am trying to impart at all. Those that have dined with me on this board know that I am the last person to skip dessert or avoid things with fat or cream. My issue with "excess" lies in the superfluousness of these ingredience. For me excessive means anything that is not necessary and it was, in my opinion, not necessary to drown a piece of fish, or meat or even a plate of pasta in layers of creamy sauce. It doesn't do anything to the food. Just as I hated the Tuna salad at Matsuhisa in Aspen because why bother getting a good piece of blue fin tuna, if you are just going to drown the flavors in soy sauce? That to me is excessive. One of the most excessive dish I had at LCB was a salad of lobster with crabmeat and mango and caviar. Low fat, but why all four together? Lobster and mango works (brings out the sweetness of each other while providing a good contrast of texture). Crabmeat and mango works (same reason). But all together, it doesn't work, at least it doesn't work for me. And, the caviar does nothing for any of the elements of that dish. Take something else that ran along the similar concept, at Le Bernardin, there is a sea urchin and shellfish concoction that is served in a sea urchin shell. The dish has several things in it, Iranian Caviar, Sea Urchin, Shrimp and Scallop and I believe it is slightly poached in butter (I can check that). Not exactly low fat, but it works beautifully because it successfully takes your palate through a range of sensation and taste that balances one another. The Iranian caviar lends an interesting flavor to the shrimp and scallop that is rounded out by the creaminess of the sea urchin.

I believe in dishs composed of ingredience that actually do something with each other and enhance the overall flavor of the dish, and not just there because it looks good or is a luxury ingredient. These are just my own personal opinion.

[oakapple]

LCB Brasserie Rachou is an odd hybrid between the four-star destination that La Cote Basque once was, and the informal brasserie that it now aspires to be. The serving staff (many of whom pre-date the flood) are attentive and très correctement. The china and flatware would be at home in any three- or four-star restaurant. The patrons are all monsieur et madame. Every dish is served with a silver half-moon cover, which is removed with the obligatory voila!

I ordered a cassoulet, while my mother ordered rack of lamb. Both of us were delighted. (I would note that the lamb came with four chops, which is generous as compared to the three I was served earlier this week at Gotham Bar & Grill.) To accompany, we ordered a $35 cabernet that I reckon would have been $50 in many restaurants. In a restaurant of this calibre, $35 for almost any bottle is a steal.

Most entrées are over $25, and many are over $30, making LCB Brasserie a bit pricey for a two-star restaurant, but for traditional French favorites it still offers an experience that has become scarce in Manhattan. I would happily return.

[Pan]

Thanks for your report, Oakapple. I think I learned more about the place from you than I did from Bruni's review.

[oakapple]

Thanks for your report, Oakapple. I think I learned more about the place from you than I did from Bruni's review.

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Thanks, Pan. That was the infamous review in which Bruni touted LCB Brasserie as the ideal escape for white-collar criminals who've finished their prison stints. Bruni also said:

On the night we ate near Mr. Taubman, the median age in the restaurant was perhaps 73.

That is no longer the case. We were delighted to see plenty of young people in the restaurant, including the table next to us, which had four ladies in (I would guess) their early thirties. It's not a party joint, but neither is it catering exclusively to aged La Cote Basque patrons.

[jgould]

LCB Brasserie Rachou is an odd hybrid between the four-star destination that La Cote Basque once was, and the informal brasserie that it now aspires to be. The serving staff (many of whom pre-date the flood) are attentive and très correctement. The china and flatware would be at home in any three- or four-star restaurant. The patrons are all monsieur et madame. Every dish is served with a silver half-moon cover, which is removed with the obligatory voila!

I ordered a cassoulet, while my mother ordered rack of lamb. Both of us were delighted. (I would note that the lamb came with four chops, which is generous as compared to the three I was served earlier this week at Gotham Bar & Grill.) To accompany, we ordered a $35 cabernet that I reckon would have been $50 in many restaurants. In a restaurant of this calibre, $35 for almost any bottle is a steal.

Most entrées are over $25, and many are over $30, making LCB Brasserie a bit pricey for a two-star restaurant, but for traditional French favorites it still offers an experience that has become scarce in Manhattan. I would happily return.

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not to quibble, but understand. the $35 cab "steal" - what was it & do you have any idea of its wholesale price?

[oakapple]

not to quibble, but understand. the $35 cab "steal" - what was it & do you have any idea of its wholesale price?

It's a fair question, to which I have an unsatisfactory answer. I am not very good at remembering precisely which wine I ordered, and I'm not qualified to say definitively that the cab really was a "steal" at $35. Perhaps it will turn out that it was objectively no steal at all.

However, it was our subjective view that this wine was a bargain, especially when measured against the restaurant's overall price structure, which is rather high. This struck us forcefully when we dined at Tocqueville just a couple of nights later. The appetizer and entrée prices at Tocqueville are about the same as at LCB Brasserie Rachou, but Tocqueville has hardly any wines below $50 a bottle, and none at all below about $45-46.

[jgould]

walked by LCB today, very french, & looked great. liked La Cote Basque, but have not yet been to LCB. any recent experiences? prices didn't appear too bad.

[Brooklyn]

I went recently, and had a very mixed experience...

La Cote Basque was probobly the restaurant where I fell in love with food as a child.. the first memory of great food I have was lobster bisque there at the ripe old age of 12.

I hadn't been so excited about a going to a restaurant in a long time. Bistro cooking is my favorite; just to imagine all that rich, saucy, LCB French culinary talent being focused into simple bistro fare was exciting.

The room, for starters, may be the best looking bistro in NYC. It is lush, luxe, and elegant.

The steak tartare was great - served very cold..an interesting spin on the norm-- maybe some tomato product used?

Quenelles were great of course, no brainer there.

Gazpacho was one of the best I have had.

However for the main dishes, the most anticipated plates were serious letdowns.

Tournedos Rossini - a favorite of mine - were just plain bad! I didn't realize it was possible to screw that up, but apparently it is. The steak I ordered medium was rare, and the foie seemed to be of poor quality. I figured that sending back the steak for more cooking would be a mistake, not knowing if the same piece of dying foie would be returned in even worse shape. Now I usually love a rare steak, but something about the quality or character of the meat made this one not palatable. I was heartbroken.

The other highly anticipated entree was the Pig's Trotter stuffed with foie gras and truffles. This unfortunalty came out a tepid, mushy mess. The problem here seemed to be lack of skill on the cook's part - not cooked long enough, at a high enough temperature.

Obviously, LCB isn't cheap at all, so it will be a while before I return - other places to go. BUt the important thing for me is that I will return, and I'll get excited about it all over again. The thing is, the menu is GIGANTIC, and there are so many different styles of dishes to choose from - old La Cote Basque classics still dot the pages next to steak frites and cassoulet.

A couple of $35 letdowns won't stop me from going back to where it all started, though. I just hope it all goes better next time.

[jgould]

I went recently, and had a very mixed experience...

Obviously, LCB isn't cheap at all,

A couple of $35 letdowns won't stop me from going back to where it all started, though.  I just hope it all goes better next time.

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great report, thx very much. will go 1st for a lillet, & peruse...

[jgould]

I went recently, and had a very mixed experience...

Obviously, LCB isn't cheap at all,

A couple of $35 letdowns won't stop me from going back to where it all started, though.  I just hope it all goes better next time.

←

great report, thx very much. will go 1st for a lillet, & peruse...

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only other comment would be that if a restaurant charges $35 for a dish, that dish should ALWAYS be above average-to-excellent as advertised. to fall short is inexcuseable!!

[tupac17616]

if a restaurant charges $35 for a dish, that dish should ALWAYS be above average-to-excellent as advertised. to fall short is inexcuseable!!

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I am definitely in agreement with you on this point. Once a dish passes up the $35 mark, it had better be very good if not great. Otherwise, I'd be quite disappointed with the money I'd spent, knowing I could have had a better food for the money at about 1,000 other places in this great city. Any place that makes me leave with that kind of disappointed feeling is definitely not a restauratnt I would be willing to try again.

**Cough Cough** Such as the ridiculously mediocre $36 braised pork entree at Mas **Cough Cough**

Excuse me. Had to clear my throat.

[Daniel]

I had dinner tonight at LCB.. I had a mixed experience at this place.. I think my frist major criticism of this place would be with the atmosphere and vibe. It was as if everyone was really uncomfortable with the new format... I went on a Saturday night and the place was filled with long time regulars.. These are primarily wealthy older couples from the neighborhood, who seem to be more comfortable with the old more formal format. The women are dressed in Chanel Suits, and the men are dressed in navy jackets with gold buttons. And instead of being in a comfortable elegant setting, they are stuffed into crowded tables and corners in a loud unintimate room.. I really felt like i was in a sceney trendy restaurant with a much older crowd. Like a meat packing scene fast forward 40 years.

The second major problem with this place was the fact that although the restaurant seemed to have haute roots, they were screwing up classic dishes by trying to modernize them while keeping them traditional at the same time.. I will start with the appetizers..

The fish soup was what we started with.. I felt the soup was way too strong.. Almost like a seafood demi glace. It was too salty, it was too over powering.. I must say in its defense my date enjoyed it.. But, i felt it was too much mussles perhaps in the stock.. Instead of with the traditional sides of toast, aioli, and cheese all seperate, the toasts had aioli and cheese broiled on top.. Cute idea, but i always enjoy doing it myself.

We then had the steak tartare.. The plate itself was gorgeous.. It had sides of finely shredded onion scented with horseraddish.. Pieces of finely chopped egg whites,and capers all placed on endives.. Very cool... There were perfect slices of juicy beet wedges and a carrot salad that was pointless and useless. Everything, besides the ok carrots, was great, except for the tartare.. The meat itself was of high quality and on point.. But the flavoring was way off.. It had a strong taste of tomato paste.. Ugh.. I mean how much crap do the french give americans for putting ketchup on things, and then they go and essentially put ketchup on steak? .. That was very disappointing..

Then came the main course.. We ordered the special Beef Wellington and the Snapper... Both were really really good.. This was where the restaurant got it right.. The beef wellington, which I ordered rare was better then i expected.. It was served with a port truffle sauce.. The steak was perfectly medium rare, leaning rare.. The sauce worked, the potatoes, with a hint of goat cheese were awesome.. This dish was worth going for.. Outstanding.. The fish was no slouch either.. It was served with a broccoli and caulilflower almost crust.. It was perfectly cooked, a beautifull piece of fish.. Served over buttery creamy mashed potatoes with a sweet chunky tomato salsa? flanking it.. These two dishes really showed flashes of greatness... I dont think i have ever had a better beef wellington and the fish could stand with the best of them..

Next came the desserts.. Eh.. Fair.. The mousse nougatine.. The chocolate was lighter then i like.. The nougatine was really a non-factor.. The creme anglese was good.. Had rasberry and passion fruit in it.. The whipped cream tasted hurried.. No vanilla really or sugar.. Probably made from a nitrous container instead of whipped.. But i am being critical cause i just made an awesome mousse this afternoon. Then we had a lemon cheese cake thing.. Better then the first, but nothing special... But look how gorgeous those plates are.. i would have rather me pay the 8.50 and take an empty plate home

All in all.. I would sum this place up as a rich persons diner.. It seemed like the majority of the people here were super wealthy, looking for a simple well prepared 35 dollar piece of fish, 18 dollar soup, and a simple 400 dollar bottle of wine.. Its not like its a special occasion, its just a place to grab a bite on a saturday. Would i go again? Hmm, whose paying?

edit to add: we had a great bottle of wine.. A Saint Emillion Simar? 1990.. Was excellent..

Edited February 21, 2005 by Daniel (log)

[Theven]

Thank you Daniel for the excellent post.

First of all I would like to thank you for your Honesty.

Second for the Great pictures.

The way you downgraded the many facet's of this restuarant and then raved about the "outstanding" main course makes me want to go even more. Anyway those pics you shared are making me HUNGRY so thanks again for the excellent review.

[Todd36]

Had dinner there last night on the pre-theater pre-fix, which was $35 a head. It's a good buy, for three courses. I had Quenelles, Short Ribs and a Grand Marnier Souffle ($3 supp) and my friend had the Lobster Bisque, Duck and Warm Chocolate Cake. Food was good, seems to be the same food as the ala carte menu, at a considerable discount. The price of starter plus main on ala carte menu is greater than $35, the three courses ala carte are on the order of $60 (which might be a tad overpriced). At $35, if you want that much food, it's a good value. They also serve that same menu after 10:00. You have to ask for this menu, it's not listed on the regular card, served before 6:30 and after 10:00. Menupages has it at $39, but my card said $35 and that is what we were charged. Coffee runs $2.50 and cappuccino runs $4.00. Wine was a bottle of Chateau des Tours 2004, it's a Brouilly, retails for something like $16, their price $38. Total with tax and tip was just under $150, which is not bad in NY for three French courses for two, with a bottle of decent wine and coffee.

[dan.]

Had brunch here yesterday, which is $20 for three courses. Again, not a bad value. Heavy stuff though there are lighter choices. Had a really nice short rib with winter vegetables and a really lovely scallop, leek and mushroom casserole. Desserts were very nice as well. A serviceable fruit tart and that cute chocolate dome pictured above. A ton of food for 20 bucks, and it did keep me off my feet for the rest of the afternoon, but well worth it on a bitter day weather wise.

[Fat Guy]

The New York Post reports that LCB is the latest casualty of the health department's sanitation crackdown:

THE Health Department has shuttered famed French eatery Brasserie LCB on West 55th Street after owner Jean-Jacques Rachou got into a profanity-laced spat with inspectors - and pals of the legendary French chef say he's being unfairly victimized.

http://www.nypost.com/seven/03202007/gossi...six/pagesix.htm

[docsconz]

A sad article from The New York Times about the aftermath of the closure of the restaurant in March.

The city Health Department has closed 297 restaurants since the week ending Feb. 24. … A vast majority of the restaurants have been reinspected and reopened…

The closing was on March 8. On March 30, the restaurant passed a new inspection with flying colors. But Mr. Rachou has yet to reopen; he says he is too depressed: “The kitchen is ready, but the mind is not yet. Look, first I have to get over it. I need another two weeks to pull myself together. Maybe then.”

In the meantime, his 40 or so employees have been out of work — or working elsewhere — and the restaurant has forfeited what industry observers speculate may be around $100,000 per week in revenues.

[Peter B Wolf]

To quote from the article:

......" " But our source insisted, "The inspectors were nasty to Rachou. He said what he said in a fit of frustration, and it was like one of them turned into a 'bad cop' getting all bent out of shape like his authority was being questioned." "

I happened to be in a very similar situation, back 35 years ago.

to be continued lost it with wrong clicks

Edited April 21, 2007 by Peter B Wolf (log)

[Fat Guy]

Rumor reported today by Gael Greene on her new blog, picked up by Eater, is that Alain Ducasse is going to take over the LCB space. Links:

http://www.insatiable-critic.com/Article.a...of%20Crocodiles

http://eater.com/archives/2007/05/ducasse_looking.php