Paris Gastronomie Children 14 & 9

[sebonac]

When I was 14, I traveled to Europe with my parents and was a lucky tag-along to places like Taillevent and Tour d'Argent. Remarkable experiences, but without question I at such an age was in 'over my head' regarding the food and indeed the entire show....and I was struck by how many foreign tourists made up the clientele (of course including us!)

Now thirty years later my wife and I are taking our two children -- ages 14 and 9 -- to Europe this summer. We will be spending four days in Paris. My inquiry is two-fold: First, we adults plan to ditch our kids one night and eat very well, but I'd like to try a place with a slighter lower profile for tourists than G. Savoy, L'Ambroisie, P. Gagnaire etc. I am attracted to Le Relais d'Auteuil. Can anyone advise me if I'm heading in the right direction? Are there other similarly "low-key," less touristy than-the-norm places one might suggest?

My second inquiry concerns my kids --- any suggestions for places where they might be introduced to wonderful food without 'overshooting' the target? While they are adventurous and reasonably worldly, I have no illusions that a trip to any of the glamour-spots would result in much good (for the establishment or ourselves!). Still, I'd like to thread the needle if you know what I mean. Thanks for your consideration.

[John Talbott]

There was another thread on the subject of taking kids out in Paris a few weeks ago. I may be alone in feeling this way, but it has been my contention for years that despite the French tradition of not taking kids to good restaurants, excepting brasseries or country inns on Sundays or holidays with grandparents, kids rise to the occasion and do just fine wherever you go (so long as food and restaurants have been part of their US experience). We've hosted our children & grandchildren, at all ages, from days to months, without problems in any restaurant. At max, we had 2 grandchildren, the oldest only 3, for 3 months in Paris and while we started out at Vietnamese, Italian or local places where we were known, soon we went almost anyplace. Agreed, it was easier at places that were more informal and untouristy (eg Bouclard, La Marlotte) but we also ate at more mainstream restaurants (Maxence, L'Huitrier, Bistro Cote Mer). - I give these names not as recommendations but examples. I think it's only at big-named, starred places with stern staff that you don't get super friendly treatment because of the kids. With little kids, a place with an accessible terrace or hotel lobby that can be used to work off boredom works best but with 14 and 9 year olders, it's probably unecessary.

Zagat does publish a section on "Teenagers and Other youthful spirits" but I think they dumb down the experience. Push the envelope, see if it works, what's the worst than can happen?

[John Talbott]

Try the site - "Trip to Paris in 10 days w/9 yr. old-Restaurants?, Eating well & reasonably with a child" by Gabrielle March 17th

[John Talbott]

When you get back I'd be most grateful for your feedback on what non-food things (eg monuments, attractions, quartiers) your 9 year old was most interested in? We have a friend bringing a 10 year old in June and it's been a while since we've hosted a girl in that age range. Thanks

[Busboy]

My children are 11 and 15, and I have found Parisian restaurants wonderfully receptive to them. In fact, I think that I get better service when I bring them, and that Parisians, like everyone else, enjoy introducing well-behaved (mostly) kids to something in which they take great pride.

I do make sure they are well-dressed and not too "American" -- no sneakers, shorts, or fanny packs for dinner. The biggest problem is that they are not particularly adventurous eaters, which is how we discovered that the French do a pretty good job at pizza -- if you find your children are not warming to, say, tripe sausage, there are plenty of wood-fired pizza ovens to be found on the Left Bank.

If you are staying in the Invalides area, I cannot speak highly enough of Clos des Gourmets, which mixes a very graceful feel -- most male diners were in neckties and the room oozed casual elegance -- with a very reasonably priced menu, 32 euros, I believe. They were very welcoming to our family, speak enough English to get you through dinner, if need be, and the tete du couchon was the gastronomic highlight of 10 days in France last month. 16 Ave. Rapp 01 45 51 75 61

[Busboy]

When you get back I'd be most grateful for your feedback on what non-food things (eg monuments, attractions, quartiers) your 9 year old was most interested in? We have a friend bringing a 10 year old in June and it's been a while since we've hosted a girl in that age range. Thanks

All kids are different, but I think my 11-year-old daughter enjoyed picnicking on quais down near Nortre Dame and Ile de la Cite as much as anything. She also enjoyed just rambling through the city, with the occasional stop for ice cream or frites. We stayed in the 5th and then in the 7th, she seemed to find places like Boulevard St. Michel and the crowded areas near the bookanistes fascinating. We did almost no traditional sightseeing -- missed the Louvre again -- and nere had a moment of boredom.

The Eifel Tower remains pretty cool. Perhaps, as a local, you'll know a goof time to go when the lines aren't as absurd as they were the night we climbed up.

[sebonac]

John T. and Busboy -- Thanks much for your input, and I will be delighted to report how it went when we return.

Any thoughts on places like Relais d'Auteuil vs. the more glamorous two stars and three stars? My wife and I are striving to find a spot or two for a splendid meal without the bells and whistles that attach to the more high profile restaurants, and where we with our reasonable handle on the French language might allow us to kid ourselves we are blending in with the locals.