Bouley

[ajay]

One of the things that irks me about Bouley is their lack of half-bottles, and their meager selection of wines available by the glass.

Not having a cellar the size and depth of Beachfans, and often dining with companions who can't be counted on for more than a glass, I feel that Bouley's wine list is a straight jacket.  THe most i can consume is a bottle plus a glass.  Two half bottles or a bottle and a half-bottles are not feasible.  Moreover, I'm not thrilled by their particular choices available by the glass, so I'm not tempted to pair a glass to every dish when having the tasting menu.

[Wilfrid]

Bouley closed just before I relocated to New York, although of course I have heard a lot about it.  I was just wondering what the dinner prices are like.  I am assuming its upscale, and therefore would be comparable price-wise with Bouley's own Danube or with Chanterelle (to take two Tribeca examples).  Am I right?

[PaulaJ]

The original Bouley as housed about 2 blocks away and is now the home to Scalini Fedeli's NY venue.

  A few years ago David Bouley opened 'Bouley Bakery'. The

right side of the establishment was a working bakery and the left side, a restaurant far more casual in decor, menu and

cuisine than the original Bouley. As the BB became more and more popular, the 'more casual' seemed to nudge upward.

  During the period the restaurant was closed subsequent to 9/11 happenings, the right side/bakery was closed and completely redecorated into a very attractive room. I find it closer to the old Bouley than not, but opinions may vary on this. They also gave the left side diningroom a touch up.

 The prix fixe last Saturday, the menu of our first poster in this thread, cost $75. Service is very good........but, as I posted, the handling of reservations was beyond the acceptable. We return there tomorrow and hope things will be calmer.

[Beachfan]

I admire you pluck in returning so quick. I'd be boycotting for years for that type of wait.

Did they comp your bar tab?

[PaulaJ]

I would love to have been able to cancel tomorrow; I

was and am very angry re; Saturday pm. However, the

decision for tomorrow was not mine. No, they comped

nothing. While it would have been gracious, I'm not

certain that anything can compensate for such a delay.

[ajay]

PaulaJ,

I'm curious... when did you begin to complain about the wait?  I begin to get antsy after ten minutes, and would have left after 1/2 an hour...  This seems like the perfect time and place for the ordering pizza stunt that one reads about in newspapers.

Have you written to the restaurant about this experience?  I note that on another thread, a letter to le ecole des chefs yielded satisfactory results.  Perhaps a letter to Bouley would yield the same?  If not, the lack of customer care and graciousness would certainley be welcome knowledge--to you and to the egullet community.

Do report back on your expereince the next time around.

BTW, how was the food once you were actually seated?  Did you feel hurried?  Was the kitchen still performig at that late hour?

[macrosan]

Paula, I'm as astonished as Ajay. I cannot believe you just stood and waited for that time.

We Brits are often accused of being unwilling to complain at bad service, and in all the Americas none have the reputation of New Yorkers for being at the other end of the scale. Please tell us that you're going to do something truly appalling to the restaurant when you go tonight. Pleeeeease !!!!!

[R Washburn]

For those of you with short memories, I would like to remind you that one of the great flaws in the old Bouley was the long waits for tables.  At Bouley they refused to rush  diners, which results in long waits for the later seatings.  On the other hand, Bouley is much less expensive than the competition (ADNY, Daniel etc.).  If you hate to  wait, then I would reccomend making your reservation in the first seating and/or avoiding weekends.

[ajay]

R Washburn,

Your point is well taken.  I have always appreciated the relative affordability of Bouley Bakery and the new Bouley.  I am prepared to make some compromises (especially on the level of ultra luxe ingredients) at this price level--which is roughly equivalent to Grammercy Tavern, where I never recall feeling rushed, or having to wait for a table.

But 1.5 hours+ wait for a table is unacceptable for any restaurant that takes reservations--regardless of price.  Perhaps Bouley needs to reduce their seatings or engage in the practice of offering to buy those lingering over coffee a drink at the bar.  Either way, I continue to maintain that such long waits are unacceptable.

[cabrales]

Do members have input on "good finds" on the Bouley wine list (i.e., (1) the bottles could in absolute terms be expensive or not, but the mark-up in percentage terms is relatively reasonable; or (2) the bottle is difficult to find)?  

[macrosan]

If the waiting is endemic, then Bouley need to say so up front when you book. Further, when they're asked by a customer how long the wait is going to be, they need to start being honest and saying they don't know.

[Wilfrid]

A 1.5 hour wait strikes me as a failure to fulfil a contract.  Restaurants hate it when we do that.  Unfortunately, I can't think of any effective sanctions right now.

[PaulaJ]

Have been off-board for a few days. To respond to some:

--I'm not certain how we were mesmerized into waiting so long. Others also were waiting....wne helped....we did complain, to no avail....and we were w. another couple who had chosen it for their 4th anniversary dinner. That said, I couldn't get one member to bolt...so there we were.

  Yes, the food was up to level, even at that hour.

--Now, for the revisit on Wednesday evening. What a difference a day makes! The restaurant was about 2/3 full.

We arrived early & were seated immediately. Menu, cuisine and serve were the same. A lovely evening.

--Yes, the first Bouley was infamous for long waits...but I

felt this was egregious and must have reflected poor scheduling/ over-booking.

[Steve Klc]

I'd appreciate input from members regarding Bouley's "passion mango ravioli" a few have mentioned.  I read elsewhere on the boards that Bouley is doing his own desserts (always interesting in and of itself when a pastry chef is not hired) and others have commented on a current tropical emphasis in the cuisine.

Can anyone recall whether the passion mango raviolis were offered in previous incarnations of the restaurant, when Herme had some involvement or Bill Yosses was the pastry chef of Bouley Bakery?

The reason I ask is thin slices of mango, rolled up as a ravioli with a passionfruit cream tucked inside has been a signature of Ferran and Alberto Adria dating back at least to 1995--though I'm not prepared to say who invented the technique or when. (It is assumed among certain very talented, widely-travelled chef friends of mine that Adria was the first to do this.)  Those raviolis are in just about every Adria book and in the Oriol Balaguer book as well--in both fruit soups and plated dessert applications.

I'd appreciate specific information about Bouley's use historically of the ravioli and any observations of other chefs using this technique which date back a few years.

[wingding]

Steve:I worked for Bill Yosses at Bouley Bakery in 1998,and while I was there,there weren't any ravioli for dessert.The desserts,at that point,were pretty simple....

[Steve Klc]

Thank you wingding--I just re-read the usually oafish Adam Platt review of Bouley in New York magazine, thanks to Liza providing the link on another thread. He mentions that "Delicate eaters can nibble at a dish of thinly shaved pineapple dappled with sugary mint leaves and a single scoop of sorbet" which, as I've written elsewhere on this site is so, so widely copied and employed that I would be interested if members could weigh in on this presentation--and its particulars?  Is Bouley as pastry chef bringing anything interesting to bear with this dish--any personal revelation?

(Not that Adam Platt would know--and why mention that Bouley lost "Galen Zamarra, Bouley Bakery's supremely talented executive chef" and make no mention of pastry chef?)

The first beautiful pineapple carpaccio presentation I recall seeing was by Pierre Herme in his 1997 book "Plaisirs sucres"--with crystallized cilantro leaves, pomegranate seeds and lemon sorbet.  Herme revisited it in the 1998 Dorie Greenspan book as well, this time with lime sorbet and a very easy coconut milk/pineapple emulsion. My favorite versions use sorbets of yogurt or fromage blanc--Gale Gand has run a pineapple carpaccio for some time at Tru as well.

There is even a Valrhona chocolate souffle on the Bouley menu.  Doesn't sound like poetic genius so far.

[Bux]

We had a lovely pre-dessert or dessert amuse, last week at Regis Marcon's Clos des Cimes in St. Bonnet-le-Froid. It was a thin slice of fresh pineapple folded over a puree of fresh strawberries. It was a wonderfully clean and sweetly acidic break between the rich savory course and the full blown desserts to follow. It's fascinating to talk about the derivation of the treat, but at the time all that mattered was the taste.

Paula, I am becoming more and more aware of how a fine meal can be marred and even ruined by circumstances that sem not directly related to the food. As you so acurately posted, it's not just the disappointment and loss of time. Of far greater effect is having your stomach empty for an hour or two.

[Bux]

"passion mango ravioli"

I'm reminded of the avocado crab ravioli at l'Astrance for a savory adaptation of the same technique.

[Steve Klc]

I was just made aware that recently Bouley sent two of his guys to work at El Bulli for a while, so the appearance of the mango raviolis with passionfruit is perhaps explained.

I'm still very interested in members comments regarding the current utilization and presentation of the raviolis--pre-dessert? dessert?

But hey, if you're going to copy, uh, emulate, at least they're emulating the right guys.  (Memo to critics and power columnists of the foodie scene like John Mariani and Jonathan Gold: don't talk up the originality of the desserts here.)

[Felonius]

I have always been a huge fan of David Bouley's restaurants in all their incarnations, and eagerly anticipated a visit to the post-September 11th reincarnation.  My visit last week left me with mixed feelings.

The service was incredibly slow (over 30 minute wait for the first course and nearly an hour in between the first and second courses!) though friendly.  In addition, I had brought a very special bottle of wine, a 1982 Bordeaux first-growth from my cellar, and asked the sommelier and waiter to surprise me with a tasting menu of suitable pairings from the menu.   The first two courses they chose were fish - not exactly a stellar choice in my humble opinion (that's what I deserve for not choosing myself I suppose).  I suspect they put in the order without much thought.  

My date had the phyllo shrimp, the bass, and the lobster as described in earlier posts by others.  All were stellar - true genius in flavor, presentation and originality.  I had the rouget, which was rather uninspiring, and the lamb which was good but not as flavorful as a rack of lamb had earlier in the week at Blue Ribbon.  Overall, I left with feelings of disappointment over my meal and thrilled with the few bites my date afforded me of hers.

Overall, my lackluster experience at Bouley was not surprising.  Many visits over the past several years have yielded similar frustrations - slow and uninspiring service, inconsistent food.  However, Bouley has also afforded me some of the best meals of my life when the kitchen was on their game.  My sister and her husband (both avid foodies with trustworthy palates)  had lunch at Bouley a few weeks prior and declared it close if not better than the meal we had together at ADNY the day before.   I would recommend to any first-timers to try Bouley at off-peak times such as weekend lunch or early on a weeknight.   I think one stands a better chance of getting Bouley's best when the kitchen isn't so strained as on a weekend night.  

While I was disappointed, I can't hold a grudge.   The price is a deal when compared with the competition, the atmosphere refined yet cozy, and the food can be the best in New York (or the USA for that matter) when the timing is right.  The ability to bring wine (corkage is now $40) is also a huge plus for me, and much appreciated.   I hope that some of the rough edges will be ironed out once they have a bit more experience under their belt with the new incarnation of Bouley.

[cabrales]

It's not just the pricing though. If Bouley is cooking to the extent of his demonstrated capabilities from Duane St, his cuisine has lyricism and moderation that I subjectively have not found anywhere else in NY.  (Note I have not eaten at the restaurant since the chef's reimmersion into his work).

[rockefeller666]

Had lunch today at Bouley.  It was outstanding, absolutely outstanding.  It was almost a steal at $35.  Absolutely a steal.  Anybody who can take time off for lunch, definitely get this 5-course lunch at Bouley.  The menu is on the internet.  It's definitely a $60 meal at $35.  Amazing lunch.  Service was absolutely impeccable.  Absolutely impeccable.  It is a fantastic place.  One of the best meals I've ever had in New York.

[JeffWilson]

My wife and I went to Bouley for dinner a week ago Sat night and it was fantastic. I will not give a detailed review, as much of it would be repeating previous reviews (e.g. LOVED the scallop-encrusted bass!), but everything we had was either wonderful or incredible. Noise was a bit of an issue as a table of 8 was nearby. And service was a bit spotty. Although the wait staff was very knowledgable, there were a few long delays between courses. And the wait to get the bill was approximately 20 minutes. That's a bit unacceptable. That said, however, does not mean we will not be returning. Minor gripes for a spectacular meal. True memories of the original Bouley (right down to the hit-or-miss service!). Go...you will not be disappointed.

[PaulaJ]

Steve,

 The ravioli were served to us pre-dessert, much as

the melon soup w. sorbet usually is. Not appreciating

the history of this dish, I found them mildly interesting.

On our last visit, after the menu degustation, the captain delivered two additional desserts 'for tasting', one of

which was the pineapple carpaccio. Again, we certainly

were not knowledgable re; this dish....and mostly left it

aside in favor of a delicate, tasteful chocolate

cake[whose name I also do not know---very helpful

here!] Anyway, while I have no complaints re; the

desserts, I have never found them stellar.

[cabrales]

I had a disappointing dinner at Bouley (relative to my very high expectations, to be clear) recently. The meal represented my first experience at the "new" Bouley (the non-bakery predecessor of which used to be my favorite restaurant in the US). I will not furnish a write-up until after several more visits, as this is a restaurant on which I would not like to make a hasty assessment.

In the meantime, below is the Spring & Early Summer Menu 2002 of the restaurant:

Appetizers

Panache of three salads: roasted foie gras with quince puree and fresh cherries; frciassee of porcini, hen of the woods and shiitake mushrooms; satay of scuba dived sea scallops and Flordia shrimp with fresh bay leaf sauce (23)

Return from Chiang Mai: chilled Maine lobster, mango, fresh artichoke and Serrano ham, passion fruit, fresh coconut and tamarind dressing (16)

Tuna sashimi with shaved fennel, dressed in herb oils and spicy marinade (14)

Dairy Free Ravioli of Scallops, served with lemon thyme and foie gras sauce (22)

Chilled Seattle golden creek, Maine belon, Blue Point and Kumamoto oysters on the half shell, wine and shallot dressing (16)

Grilled eggplant terrine with red bell pepper, Italian parsley sauce (14)

Steamed Malibu sea urchins served with Kaffir lime, shiso and baby celery leaves, Oscetra caviar (18)

Spring garlic soup with South African porcini mushrooms (12)

Salad of smoked trout with green apple, avocado and celery dressing (12)

Ceviche of scuba dived sea scallops with Asian pear, fresh pomelo and Meyer lemon dressing (16)

Japanese yellowtail with Cavaillon melon, hon-shimeji mushrooms, ginger aromatic sauce (16)

Entrees

Roasted monkfish with a fricassee of wild mushrooms and fresh artichokes (32)

European turbot steamed with wild ramps, hen of the woods mushrooms and geoduck clams (34)

Roasted wild salmon with a pecan crust, sweet corn, organic sorrel, a sugar corn and early garlic sauce (34)

Maine lobster with sweet peas, fava beans, haricots verts, pinot wine sauce (36)

Black bass prepared in a scallop crust with white asparagus, salsify, jasmine rice and sauce Bouillabaisse with Tahitian vanilla (34)

Eraly season soft shell crabs with a coconut tempura, crispy cabbage, spicy citrus dressing (36)

Pennsylvania all natural chicken, steamed in buttermilk and porcini mushrooms, green and white asparagus, my grandmother's prune and leek potato gratin (34)

Long Island duckling with Acacia honey glaze, spring wheat berries, garlic chives and ginger, green tomato chutney (32)

Rack and loin of Colorado lamb, roasted with young carrots, turnips and roma beans, zucchini mint sauce (36)

Roast venison filet, with a crust of black trumpet mushrooms (36)

Seattle, Washington Kobe beef with Asian celery puree and horseradish sauce (56)

Cheese (18)

Desserts

Warm pine nut tart, with apple lemon grass sauce, mint, vanilla and white asparagus ice cream (12) [Note utilization of vegetable in ice cream, relevant for purposes of another thread]

Apple orchard prize, slowly baked apples with caramel and phyllo crunch, cinnamon ice cream (!2)

Pineapple carpaccio with cilantro and lime sorbet (9)

Creme brulee infused with Tahitian vanilla, cassonade crust (11)

Chocolate frivolous. Bittersweet chocolate tart, chocolate souffle, chocolate creme brulee and chocolate parfait, pistachio and coffee ice creams (14)

Sweet pleasures. Fine leaves of milk chocolate; milk chocolate ganache and chantilly; light crisp pralin on a toasted hazelnut Dacquoise (12)

Tahitian vanilla-carolina rice pudding, with fresh blackberries, blueberries and golden plums, sorbet of ten exotic fresh fruit flavors (11)

Hote Valrhona chocolate souffle, with prune Armagnac, maple and vanilla ice creams, chocolate sorbet (13)

Fresh Rhubarb and Meyer Lemon parfait with strawberries and rhubarb, cherry and litchi sorbets (12)

Note there is also a $75 prix fixe dinner.