Michelin Stars

[Hallie]

My husband and I were discussing this on our way back from a day trip to France yesterday. We had a fantastic meal at a one star restaurant in Boulogne called Matelote. In terms of the quality of food, it was top notch. I was most impressed with our savoury amuse which came as a trio - a frothy leek and potato consume, an oyster baked in a lemon cream sauce and a mini scallop tagine complete with coos-coos. The starters (warm lobster and artichoke salad and fois gras and langoustine terrine) were as amazing as they sound. The mains: turbot sauteed in browned thyme butter and duck with yet more fois gras (the over indulgent choice of my husband) were also perfect. Dessert included another amuse - a magdalen cake with a compote of pears and dark chocolate, and not one but two trays of petit fours (one of mini pastries and another of home-made truffles) this was before my mango creme brulee arrived!

...However, the main point of this post is not to wax lyrical about the food (as good as it was) but to highlight the differences in what constitutes a star rating. The one thing we felt the experience lacked was particularly good service. The service was alright, but certainly not attentive to the degree that we were expecting. This made us think of a number of restaurants we frequent in London - some of which don't even have star ratings where the service is much better. The other week we had lunch at the Orrery which should, according to its one star rating have been a similar experience to that which we had in Boulogne. It was instead, much better. The food was equally as good but the wait staff jumped as soon as you looked in their direction. Every napkin was refolded on cue, every dish removed, every glass refilled. Isn't this supposed to be part of the 'star' treatment? Do British restaurants have to overcome some sort of prejudice against them? It seems that stars are handed out in France with much less compunction. I sense a bias.

[Bux]

The short answer is probably "yes," but you really need to undersand that the same thing applies to restaurants in Paris. I say "yes," although I'm not so familiar with the UK ratings, but from what I understand of Spain and Italy, even the two and three star ratings seem much harder to achieve there, than in France. The one star rating is relative however, even in France. On a universal basis it's rather meaningless. The better the general food in the immediate and even the larger general region, the harder it is to get a star. In an area not known for good food, one star may only mean that this is better than it's neighbors. And that too, we've come to understand lately may be more of a subjective opinion than most of us had thought.

[Hallie]

a magdalen cake with a compote of pears and dark chocolate

I believe that should have been 'madeleine' cake.

A rather insightful glimpse into the inner workings of my mind - feeling rather penitent after that unholy gastromic gorge.

[Andy Lynes]

I've just come back from a week in Paris and although I didn't dine in any starred establishments (at least I don't think I did, has Robuchon got one?) my thoughts were that London still has a long way to go to catch up. Three stunning meals and two pretty good ones in 4 days, none of which were more than around €70 (£50.00) a head. I don't think I could maintain that average in London.

[marcus]

The other week we had lunch at the Orrery which should, according to its one star rating have been a similar experience to that which we had in Boulogne. It was instead, much better. The food was equally as good but the wait staff jumped as soon as you looked in their direction. Every napkin was refolded on cue, every dish removed, every glass refilled. Isn't this supposed to be part of the 'star' treatment?

The Michelin star rating is supposed to be for the food alone. Although this has been questioned at the 2 and 3 star level, it is pretty much true for one stars, unless there is a very serious deficiency. The fact that both of these restaurants received a star and had equivalent food, really indicates that Michelin is accomplishing just what they intended.

[tony h]

I've just come back from a week in Paris and although I didn't dine in any starred establishments (at least I don't think I did, has Robuchon got one?) my thoughts were that London still has a long way to go to catch up. Three stunning meals and two pretty good ones in 4 days, none of which were more than around ?70 (£50.00) a head. I don't think I could maintain that average in London.

I've also just arrived back from Paris & had two of the worst meals in ages: Tallevent & Grand Vefour - T was OK but dull dull dull; GF - the food was staggering tasteless & staggeringly expensive - neither come close to 3 stars - even two for that matter. I will report AT LENGTH shortly. FG was even worse than Martin Berasategui - and he takes some beating.

One the plus side - Pierre Gagnaire was as breathaking good as always

[Jonathan Day]

We had a fantastic meal at a one star restaurant in Boulogne called Matelote. In terms of the quality of food, it was top notch. ... The one thing we felt the experience lacked was particularly good service. The service was alright, but certainly not attentive to the degree that we were expecting.

That's the La Matelote just across from "Nausicaa", the aquarium and marine life centre, right? I had a lovely meal there, perhaps 12 years ago. I believe it has stayed strong for a long time.

Service in French restaurants can vary a lot, from the rather informal, pour-your-own-wine to the very attentive, two members of staff to every customer. Service style there doesn't precisely correlate either with price levels or with Michelin star ratings. The La Matelote I recall was somewhat informal in style, in keeping with the seafront and fishing motif. Other one-stars can be very formal.

[John Whiting]

Le Matolote sounds promising. For me, "bad service" means bringing the wrong food after it's got cold.

[Hallie]

That's the La Matelote just across from "Nausicaa", the aquarium and marine life centre, right?

Yes, the very same. A great find - especially after a day at Carrefour buying up loads of wine and other goodies (including ble noir flour which I'm really excited about - I can now make proper crepes!)

Service in French restaurants can vary a lot, from the rather informal, pour-your-own-wine to the very attentive, two members of staff to every customer. Service style there doesn't precisely correlate either with price levels or with Michelin star ratings.

Yes again. This was my point. I wasn't complaining about bad service - the service was fine, I was only remarking upon the difference in service we received in at an urban British one star and at a somewhat rural French one star.

Perhaps service does not factor into the star rating at all and is instead reflected in the number of crossed spoons and forks that appear. In this case both bear 3 and 1 star, yet there was a marked difference.

My intention was never to put anyone off going - so John please go if youre so inclined, the place is brilliant!

[Marco_Polo]

That's the La Matelote just across from "Nausicaa", the aquarium and marine life centre, right? 

The eating options in Nausicaa are fairly basic but worth noting. Where else but in France, for example, would you, after touring a ultramodern and impressive aquarium and marine life centre, end up feeling peckish for, um er, a little bit of fish or shellfish.

It's worth coming here for local mussels, a plateaux des fruits de mer, or something more substantial like a choucroute de poissons. Or just hang out in the bar and linger over a half dozen huitres and a large glass of Alsatian wine (or two).

MP

Edited March 15, 2004 by Marco_Polo (log)

[Steve Martin]

Well it's certainly relative. We were at Matelote last September and we detested it. The service was ungracious and incompetent. The food could not be described as one star quality. The fish was overcooked and poorly presented. The composition was poor, with plates looking a jumbled mess and combinations that did not work for us.

We left angry.

I can recommend the Auberge de la Grenouillere, near Montreuil instead. We call him the frogman. A few mistakes, but he is ready for a star.

[paulbrussel]

The Michelin star rating is supposed to be for the food alone.

That's what they always say in the guides: "Stars: Certain establishments deserve to be brought to your attention for the particularly fine quality of their cooking."

For the one star restaurants, they indicate: "A very good restaurant in its category. But beware of comparing the star given to an expensive "de luxe" establishment to that of a simple restaurant where you can appreciate fine cuisine at a reasonable price."

So the number of forks are related to the accompanied one Michelin star.

[Marco_Polo]

Well it's certainly relative.  We were at Matelote last September and we detested it.  The service was ungracious and incompetent.  The food could not be described as one star quality.  The fish was overcooked and poorly presented.  The composition was poor, with plates looking a jumbled mess and combinations that did not work for us.

We left angry.

Mmmnnn, had a similar experience ourselves at La Matelote, but as it was a few years back I hesitated to report it. Problem is, the place inevitably is filled up these days with day tripper foodies, hot off the hovercraft or ferry in search of an instant fine-French-food-fix. The staff even back then seemed jaded and cynical; the food was frankly mediocre; the (mainly British I'm afraid) clientele pompous and undeserving.

I can confirm that the Auberge de la Grenouillere is a delightful place, a truly idyllic French country inn. Just four beautiful bedrooms, and an atmospheric beamed dining room decorated with frescoes that illustrate a fable by La Fontaine in which an impreccably dressed frog eats and eats until he explodes. Chef proprietor Roland Gauthier is talented and respects the traditions and produce of Nord-Pas de Calais with menus that reflect both land and sea. I don't have a 2004 Michelin but I'm pretty sure the place has one star. If not, then it certainly deserves one.

MP

[ur-pagan]

I'm sure lots of people will disagree with this but I feel it is fair to say that there is a disparity between Michelin awards in France and in the UK. Despite their pan-european guide coverage the organisation is French and the interests (in terms of cuisine) of their senior people is distinctly Francocentric. Ok the outgoing boss Derek Brown was a Brit but during his tenure as No 1 in the UK operation the Red Guide was even less enlightened than it is now. It's only in the past few years that they have seen fit to decorate pub style operations (I so hate the gastropub tag!) and Indian restaurants

[Scott]

For mine,

I think the standard of starred restaurants is certainly higher in france than it is in the UK.

Of course there are exceptions, but as a general rule...

Look at Sketch, I haven't been, but the pricing is not out of line with a 3* parisian meal - and all we can talk about is the price.

I think the french still have a greater understanding of the simpatico elements that go into creating the highest ends of culinary achievement - in that environment I don't see how it can easier to receive a higher Michelin rating. human foibles notwithstanding.

[Steve Martin]

I don't have a 2004 Michelin but I'm pretty sure the place has one star. If not, then it certainly deserves one.

MP

It doesn't have a star, but let's hope Michelin are looking closely.

The staff seemed a little stressed, but settled down later. It seemed both formal and friendly - star material.

The presentation could have been too intricate for some, but it is so precise and painstaking that one can't help but be impressed. Where the finest craft becomes art.

We felt he fell into the fish and mushroom trap and produced a dish that was far too rich from sea bass and shittake, with nuts and ham. This coming after a fabulous starter of frogs legs and gnocchi that was very mushroomy, was a mistake. Also a small creme brulee had been curdled somewhat and a vast, piled plate of beignets with coffee seemed gluttonous.

We have twice tried to visit again, but he has been shut at the wrong times for us.