Trip to Paris and the South in June

[Carlsbad]

I just discovered eGullet, and this is my first post. We will be staying in Paris (5 nights), Le Baux, Arles, Aix, and Villefranche sur Mer in late June. My wife and I have been to France several times over the past 15 years, but it will be the first time for a friend traveling with us. We will be staying in the 7th in Paris.

On past trips to Paris, we have especially enjoyed Philippe Detourbe, La Regalade, Au Bon Accueil, Eric Frechon's old restaurant, and Le Violon d’Ingres. On our last trip we also liked Tire-Bouchon.

In Paris, of the places I've been, I am considering Bon Accueil, Violon, and Bofinger. Our friend wants to have lunch at Tour d'Argent, and we will probably have something light that evening, perhaps at a wine bar. Of the places I haven't been, Au C'Amelot, Cafe Constant, L'Os a Moelle, Epi Dupin, Avant Gout, Chez Michel, Benoit, Allard, Aux Lyonnaise, Chardenoux, Chez Georges, Fontaine de Mars, and Sousceyrac have caught my eye. The wine Bars we are considering include Fish, Cafe de la Passage, and Sancerre. I was very excited about going to L'Astrance, but frankly the problems with getting and keeping reservations I have read about on here have discouraged me.

I also have nights open in Arles, Aix, and in and around Villefranche. I would appreciate any comments or recommendations. Thank you.

[menton1]

Sounds like a whirlwind trip-- Villefranche is a dreamy town, very picturesque, with restaurants draped on the quay looking at the beautiful bay. If you are looking for the top of the line, the best in the area is La Réserve, in Beaulieu, 5 minutes away. For a more sublime experience with great seafood on the quayside, go for La Calypso or L'Oursin Bleu on the Quai Courbet-- In June, the sun won't set until after 9, so you will have a great shift from light to dark during the meal. Enjoy!

[Carlsbad]

Menton1, thanks for the recommendations in Villefranche. Yes, it will be something of a whirlwind. We will be there four nights, so we'll definitely try one or both. We are staying at the Welcome. Do you know anything about La Mere Germaine? What is your recommendation for the best Bouillabaisse in the area? Thanks.

[menton1]

Menton1, thanks for the recommendations in Villefranche. Yes, it will be something of a whirlwind. We will be there four nights, so we'll definitely try one or both. We are staying at the Welcome. Do you know anything about La Mere Germaine? What is your recommendation for the best Bouillabaisse in the area? Thanks.

I have found La Mère Germaine to be about the same level as the 2 places I mentioned, but more touristy and more expensive. All the restaurants wrapped around the bay on the quayside are fun.

Bouillabaisse is another matter. Frankly, I think it will be hard to find a really good bouillabaisse around here-- it will be very expensive and really generally not up to snuff. For great bouillabaisse you need to head 2 hours west toward Marseille-- several threads here discussing restos in and around Marseille with the famous dish--

The niçois influence is wonderful in this area, great dishes with lots of veggies and lots of olive oil, in a simple style. A lot of Italian influences. We had a wonderful Niçois meal at La Petite Maison in Nice. (Rue St François de Paule)

Don't miss the Niçois fast food for a snack, either-- Socca, Pissaladière, and a Pan Bagnat. All unique and indigenous to this area.

If you have a car, and are here on a Friday, drive 35 minutes over the border to Ventimiglia, Italy. One of the best street markets ever, with about 400 vendors.

[Carlsbad]

Thanks menton1. We will have a car, and will be there on Friday, so we may check out the market. We were thinking about taking the train over into Italy someplace one day, perhaps for lunch. The market could be part of a sightseeing swing by car instead.

[John Talbott]

I may be the only person on eGullet who finds L'Astrance overhyped and disappointing, like Helen Darroze, La Famille and Lucullus, but I wouldn't grieve on not going. Of the places you've not been, I'd rank them as follows:

Chez Michel, Cafe Constant (recall it's not Le Violin, just a small cafe turned bistrot), Au C'Amelot, L'Os a Moelle, L'Epi Dupin and L'Avant Gout (again, L'Avant Gout is small, crowded and not for everyone).

The others, such as Benoit, Allard, Chardenoux, Chez Georges, La Fontaine de Mars, and Sousceyrac have seen their day in my opinion and Aux Lyonnaise, which everyone but me seems to love, is terribly inconsistant.

Of the places you liked before, Eric Frechon's old spot, now called a cave, has gotten mixed reviews (I was disappointed) and his new one at the Bristol, is very dear. La Regalade (Yves Camdeborde is there another month or so) and Au Bon Accueil hold up but you might also consider: La Maison du Jardin, Ze Kitchen Galerie (you just have to get past the name), Le Beurre Noisette, La Dinee (in its new incarnation), Le Pre Verre and Le Petit Pontoise.

[Busboy]

This page has quite a bit of back-and-forth on dining in the Villefranche area, including my own observations on where not to eat while there.

Have a great time. I'd be envious but I'm typing this from my Paris hotel (not great discoveries to report...yet).

[Busboy]

This page has quite a bit of back-and-forth on dining in the Villefranche area, including my own observations on where not to eat while there.

Have a great time. I'd be envious but I'm typing this from my Paris hotel (not great discoveries to report...yet).

[Carlsbad]

Thank you for the recommendations, John Talbott. I think maybe L'Avant Gout for lunch one day. The reviews I've read make me want to try it, and their lunch seems a bargain. Cafe Constant also sounds good for lunch, and it's close to our hotel. Au Bon Accueil, seems perfect for the first night. Bofinger and lunch at lunch at Tour d'Argent have been requested by our friend. I need a light dinner and a classic bistro for the other two nights in Paris. Too many choices.

Thanks for the page Busboy. Any discoveries to report?

[truffe d'ete]

Carlsbad

If your extensive travel itinerary will be made by car, then I can highly recommend a visit to Chez Bruno in Lorgues. It is roughly halfway between Aix-en-Provence and Nice, so you could arrange to drop in for a spot of lunch en route.

Hope you have a "tasty" trip.

Philip Hart