Paprika

[ronnie_suburban]

Several years ago I learned the glories of paprika. I think it's in my blood to begin with. My father's mother hailed from the region of Hungary where Paprika is king--Szeged.

'Marooned' in a kitchen with not much more than some chicken thighs, a few onions and a can of Szeged brand Paprika, I set out (or was forced ) to determine what paprika actually tasted like. I covered the thighs completely with the paprika (and a little salt), browned them in a skillet and then braised them for several hours over the onions, sliced into thin rings.

The result amazed me. Was it the best chicken I'd ever eaten? Damn close. It certainly was the best chicken I'd ever made. It was rich, sweet and peppery but without much heat. The meat, from having cooked so long, was beyond fork tender and almost confit-like. The onions were so good that we fought over them before we finished them. They resulting "gravy" was like nectar. I named the dish 'chickeny chicken' and so began my addiction to paprika.

I've gone back to chickeny chicken over and over again; amazing friends who cannot believe the synergistic result of such a limited ingredient list. "CC" led to an even more astounding brisket recipe and then to several spice rubs in which paprika figures prominently. Needless to say, I've found ways to make paprika the lead seasoning in many dishes since my initial discovery.

I am not a scientist (isn't this already obvious? ) but it occured to me last week that some documentation would be fun. My collection of paprika 'varietals' had grown to the point where I decided to put them up against each other for sake of comparing and contrasting.

Paprika, 7 ways

Big differences in color, texture and aroma

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The following close-ups provide detail for the above 7-shot, in order from left to right...

#1, Hungarian, Sweet, Exquisite Grade...purchased from The Spice House in Evanston, IL

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#2, Hungarian, Sweet...purchased from Penzey's.com

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#3, Spanish, Sweet, La Odalisca brand, purchased from PCD.com

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#4, Hungarian, Sweet, Szeged brand...purchased at Produce World in Morton Grove, IL

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#5, Hungarian, Half-Sharp....purchased from Penzey's in Oak Park, IL

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#6, Spanish, Sweet, Smoked...purchased from The Spice House in Evanston, IL

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#7, Spanish, Sweet, Smoked, Pimenton El Angel brand, purchased from PCD.com

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I decided to make 1 chicken thigh using each of the 7 paprikas (again the paprikas appear in the same order and individual close-ups are available upon request ).

My primary finding is that paprika is delicious.

In all seriousness (if there can be such a thing when reporting on paprikas), I noticed a lot of similarities between the Hungarian sweet exquisite (#1) and the Spanish sweet (#3). Both were very rich and floral with a stong pepper note. Again, neither was particularly hot. While they were not interchangeable, I don't know if I could tell the difference between them in a blind tasting. The only real discernable difference worth noting was the color. There are probably paprika afficionados in both Hungary and Spain getting enraged over this.

The other 2 versions of unsmoked, sweet paprika, Penzey's (#2) and Szeged (#4) were both sweet and rich. That said, the Penzey's was the better of the two. It had a fuller flavor, a more distinctive aroma and better color. I don't know where Penzey's sources their product but my guess (and it's only a guess) is that the quality differences I noticed between these 2 products has to do primarily with how long they sat on the shelves of their respective stores before I bought them. Penzey's, I would bet, does a much faster turn on their inventory. I would also bet that it's sourced in the Szeged region.

The hungarian half-sharp (#5) reminded me of something...Popeyes chicken. I would be shocked to learn that Popeyes doesn't use this product on their chicken. It had the richness and full flavor of #1 and #3 but also a very noticeable kick. I loved this one although it is not precisely the flavor I most often associate with paprika.

The smoked products really should be categorized by themselves. While there were some baseline similarities between the smoked products and the non-smoked, they were more different than similar when applied to the finished chicken. FWIW, I enjoyed the material from The Spice House (#6) more than the el Angel (#7). It had a smoother, rounder flavor than the el angel and was much less bitter. I thought the el angel tasted a bit flat.

I look forward to continuing my "research" in the coming months. It's just warming up here in the Chicago area, and it won't be long before my grills and smokers are available for me to use full time and that will allow me to test many other recipes and combinations.

Anyone else out there love paprika? If so, please take it from here.

=R=

[Katherine]

Impressive work, ronnie. I am also impressed by your collection of paprikas.

[mnebergall]

My kids beg me for hungarian goulash. The recipe I use calls for some sweet and some hot paprika. I would love to be able to kick it up a notch. What is your experience with goulash?

[woodburner]

Sounds like you "slept in a Holiday Inn" lastnight.

Very nice report.

I have one item to add.

Color is graded by the ASTM (American Spice Trade Manufacturers)?

It's my belief that most run of the mill brands are rated at a numerical value of 65, with the highest rating of 180.

Paprika is used primarily for its coloring properties, and sometimes for flavor. The end use determines which of these factors is most important and, therefore, which paprika is best for a particular buyer. In general, a high extractable-color rating enhances the value of paprika, but in many cases this also can be the most economical product to use, since less may be needed.

I use a very high proportion of paprika in my meat rubs for bbq.

Food Design

woodburner

[Squeat Mungry]

Thanks, ronnie! As a fellow paprika lover, I'm grateful for the side-by-side comparison. I may have missed it, but what liquid did you use to braise the chickeny-chicken?

Squeat

[Toliver]

The chicken sounds great! Is the "rub" for the brisket just as simple or do you add something else in addition to the paprika? And do you cook it in the oven or on the grill?

Can I also suggest that this gets turned into an eGCI course? I am envisioning a continual work in progress where spices and herbs are explored and examined one by one. I had no idea paprika could be used in such a fashion. I've only used it to sprinkle on deviled eggs or on top of potato salad.

And who knew there were that many different paprikas?

Think about what else I'm missing out on. Tumeric? What the heck is that? Tarragon? It's in my cupboard (but has never been opened ).

I think the eGCI would be a perfect format for explaining the usual and unusual ways spices & herbs can be used.

[ronnie_suburban]

My kids beg me for hungarian goulash.  The recipe I use calls for some sweet and some hot paprika.  I would love to be able to kick it up a notch.  What is your experience with goulash?

I haven't made goulash since before I became paprika-aware but when I did make it I used a blend of 75% sweet and 25% hot. "Hot?" you ask. Yes...I actually have used the Szeged brand "hot" variety in the past. In fact, I have a can of it in my cabinet now but I thought it might be a bit too old to include in this particular comparison. I honestly don't know if "hot" is yet another variety of paprika or if it's simply half-sharp called by another name.

I wish I could be of more direct help regarding goulash. I am relatively certain that I will be in the future

=R=

[Marlene]

Can I also suggest that this gets turned into an eGCI course?

Toliver, would you get better soon so you can think of something other than more work for the eCGI? Just kidding.

[Jinmyo]

Ronnie, this is wonderful. Thank you.

You know, some good EVOO beaten with paprika and a few scallions then roughly strained (or not) makes a nice condiment for most meats and some fish such as mackeral or bluefish. (This is a fake version of Wylie's red pepper oil served at NYC's WD50.)

Personally, I like smoked paprika best but Szeged is great too.

[ronnie_suburban]

Sounds like you "slept in a Holiday Inn" lastnight. 

Very nice report.

I have one item to add.

Color is graded by the ASTM (American Spice Trade Manufacturers)?

It's my belief that most run of the mill brands are rated at a numerical value of 65, with the highest rating of 180.

Paprika is used primarily for its coloring properties, and sometimes for flavor. The end use determines which of these factors is most important and, therefore, which paprika is best for a particular buyer. In general, a high extractable-color rating enhances the value of paprika, but in many cases this also can be the most economical product to use, since less may be needed.

I use a very high proportion of paprika in my meat rubs for bbq.

Food Design

woodburner

Thanks for the excellent information woodburner. I'd never seen the exquisite grade before my last trip to The Spice House but when I saw it--and its bright orange color--I knew I had to buy some.

I looked up Paprika in the Oxford Companion to Food and in it, Davidson quotes famous Hungarian restauranteur George Lang as his source of information.

The commercial grades of paprika are given by Lang, best first, as exquisite delicate (kulonleges), delicate, noble sweet (edelnemes), semi-sweet (feledes), rose (rozsa) and hot (eros).

I too, use a high proportion of paprika in my rubs. On that front, I've been experimenting with the smoked products because it's a way to inject some smokeyness into the final product during the months when using my smoker isn't really feasible.

=R=

[ronnie_suburban]

Thanks, ronnie! As a fellow paprika lover, I'm grateful for the side-by-side comparison. I may have missed it, but what liquid did you use to braise the chickeny-chicken?

Squeat

Squeat,

I didn't use any

Covered and with very low heat, the onions rendered their own liquid.

=R=

[Squeat Mungry]

Thanks, ronnie! Can't wait to try this.

[ronnie_suburban]

The chicken sounds great!  Is the "rub" for the brisket just as simple or do you add something else in addition to the paprika?  And do you cook it in the oven or on the grill?

Toliver,

The brisket is a "jewish style" braised rendition for which the method was taught to me by my friend Josh about a decade ago.

It's basically a generous sprinkling (on boths sides) of kosher salt, a lighter dose of good garlic powder (I use Penzey's) and then a complete covering with hungarian sweet paprika. It sits on a bed of onions, carrots and half a dark beer and braises for several hours. Josh taught me to add some ketchup and brown sugar to the meat's surface about halfway throught the braise. I was skeptical but when I made the brisket without doing so, it tasted pretty flat (pun semi-intended ).

PM me if you want the full recipe.

=R=

[woodburner]

This image shows a brisket (flat) after 4 hours cooking at 200º, rubbed with primarily paprika, and some salt and pepper.

I love the nice warm red glow it offers.

woodburner

[ronnie_suburban]

Ronnie, this is wonderful. Thank you.

You know, some good EVOO beaten with paprika and a few scallions then roughly strained (or not) makes a nice condiment for most meats and some fish such as mackeral or bluefish. (This is a fake version of Wylie's red pepper oil served at NYC's WD50.)

Personally, I like smoked paprika best but Szeged is great too.

Thanks for the tip Jinmyo...think I'll try this in both smoked and non-smoked versions very soon.

=R=

[ronnie_suburban]

Nice brisket woodburner!

=R=

[SobaAddict70]

And now, you have to try onions slowly cooked or fried in lard with paprika.

This is a truly glorious combination and forms the basis of many Hungarian dishes, not the least of which is the aforementioned gulyas but also borjúpörkölt (veal stew) and vesepaprikas (pork and kidney stew).

Soba

[Toliver]

Can I also suggest that this gets turned into an eGCI course?

Toliver, would you get better soon so you can think of something other than more work for the eCGI? Just kidding.

Marlene,

Thanks for the well-wishes. Saw a doc and he took good care of me. I can look at food again!

I realize the eGCI is very busy. This kind of info should be a part of it....perhaps way down the road when schedules ease up. A series of classes on different spices and their normal uses and unusual uses would be invaluble to anyone who is serious about expanding their culinary knowledge.

Maybe eGullet could persuade Penzey's to sponsor the series...just a thought.

[Rachel Perlow]

Inspired by this thread, I have in the oven right now, a whole chicken, rubbed with a combination of smoked paprika, salt, pepper, garlic powder, on top of a bed of sliced red onions. Cooking at 300 F convection as Jason doesn't like braised food, but at least it's a lower temp than the usual 350 roast my chicken usually gets. I also added some sherry & water to the pan to get the juices started as it is on top of my unglazed tiles and stuff on the bottom can get burnt if I'm not careful.

[ludja]

And now, you have to try onions slowly cooked or fried in lard with paprika.

This is a truly glorious combination and forms the basis of many Hungarian dishes, not the least of which is the aforementioned gulyas but also borjúpörkölt (veal stew) and vesepaprikas (pork and kidney stew).

Soba

My mom, being Austrian, makes lots of dishes with paprika. In fact it was one of those words I did not realize I was mispronouncing in English for a long time. Always wondered why others said "pa-pree'-ka" while we said "pa'-pri-ka"...

Cool experiments ronnie_suburban with the different paprikas.

Some basic recipes she makes are paprika chicken (braised chicken pieces in paprika-sour cream sauce), Hungarian Beef Goulash, Goulash a la Szekler (pork shoulder, sauerkraut, paprkia, a little sour cream), and Zigeuner (Gypsy) Schnitzel.

Here's her basic recipe for Hungarian Beef Goulash although I don't really have a fixed recipe. It's important to taste at the end and adjust.

5 Tbs fat (lard is good and traditional as soba mentions but can sub)

4 medium onions, roughly chopped

3 lb beef chuck, cut into ~ 1 1/2 inch cubes

1-2 Tbs hungarian paprika or more (noble sweet; not hot)

s & p

1 Tbs vinegar

caraway seeds (pinch or to taste)

1/2 tsp marjarom

1 garlic clove.

2 cups water or beef stock

1 Tbs tomato paste (optional)

2 tsp flour

Melt lard in heavy pan/dutch oven. Saute onions until soft and yellow but not overly browned. Add beef to pan and brown about 5-10 minutes. Add paprika, vinegar, caraway seeds, marjarom. Crush garlic with salt and pepper and also add in. Briefly stir to mix and then immediately add in warm water or stock. Simmer over low heat for about an hour. Add more water if needed at this time to keep a soup consistency. Also add in tomato paste if using. Simmer another hour or so untill meat is tender. Raise heat and sprinkle flour over, blend well and cook a few more minutes. Taste and adjust any seasonings as desired.

**You can also add potatoes to this but my mom ususally cooks those separately and adds them in towards the end. You want plenty of broth and a high proportion of meat in the final dish; definately serve in bowls with a spoon. Can also serve with little egg dumplings like spatzle. As with all stews, it reheats very well if not better.

Typically serve with good dark rye bread (buttered) and a simple green salad with oil/vinegar dressing or cucumber salad.

Edited March 12, 2004 by ludja (log)

[woodburner]

Paprika seems pretty resilient regarding frying in oils. Conventional wisdom would lead me to believe it might scorch or turn bitter at high heats, does anyone know if/or at what point in temperature that might occur?

woodburner

[ronnie_suburban]

And now, you have to try onions slowly cooked or fried in lard with paprika.

This is a truly glorious combination and forms the basis of many Hungarian dishes, not the least of which is the aforementioned gulyas but also borjúpörkölt (veal stew) and vesepaprikas (pork and kidney stew).

Soba

Soba,

Considering how fast the onions under the chicken (and brisket) disappear, I cannot wait to try this and build upon it. My grandmother made a great goulash but I never got the recipe from her.

Edited to ask...do you have a recipe you like for either of the stew dishes?

=R=

Edited March 12, 2004 by ronnie_suburban (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

Inspired by this thread, I have in the oven right now, a whole chicken, rubbed with a combination of smoked paprika, salt, pepper, garlic powder, on top of a bed of sliced red onions. Cooking at 300 F convection as Jason doesn't like braised food, but at least it's a lower temp than the usual 350 roast my chicken usually gets. I also added some sherry & water to the pan to get the juices started as it is on top of my unglazed tiles and stuff on the bottom can get burnt if I'm not careful.

This sounds delicious and I can't wait to hear how it turned out.

=R=

[ronnie_suburban]

Ludja,

Thanks for the recipe. As I posted above, I never got my grandmother's version on paper and it's way better to start with a food lover's tried and true recipe than it is to take a blind stab into an unfamiliar cookbook.

Regarding the braised chicken, when you make the paprika-sour cream sauce, what proportions do you typically use?

=R=

[ludja]

Ludja,

Thanks for the recipe.  As I posted above, I never got my grandmother's version on paper and it's way better to start with a food lover's tried and true recipe than it is to take a blind stab into an unfamiliar cookbook.

Regarding the braised chicken, when you make the paprika-sour cream sauce, what proportions do you typically use?

=R=

I don't really have this written down; I have some notes from my Mom but I usually wing it... Not trying to be coy at all, but I'd feel better trying it out again and next time keeping track of what I actually do before I post!

edited to add: I'll probably do it very soon; this thread is making me crave paprika chicken. For our birthdays we could choose the menu and this was often what I picked when I was younger... I'll make sure to post back!

Edited March 12, 2004 by ludja (log)