Le Petit Lebey 2004

[ann]

Le Petit Lebey 2004 has given special mention to "Mon Vieil Ami" in its modern bistro category and "Le Mesturet" in its traditional bistro category. I've read reviews of Mon Vieil Ami here and elsewhere, and one review of Le Mesturet in TimeOut Paris. Has anyone eaten either place recently?

Edited March 6, 2004 by ann (log)

[John Talbott]

I ate there on Feb 24th, largely because of the Petit Lebey cite. My notes say "No razzle, no dazzle, no smoking." I had a wonderful fricassee of escargots wrapped in chou, then only an OK fricassee of jeune coq in red wine, a chocolat moelleux (tiede) which by now everyone in France should have down pat, only so-so. There was a lot of fish on the carte and it looked good so maybe that's where they shine. It cost 42E. This trip my biggest pleasant surprise was Le Petit Pontoise which is open 7/7 and altho' written up in the New York Times, not always a good sign, was like Chez Catherine was 10 years ago before she went upscale and outasight. It's in the 5th at 9 rue de Pontoise, near Le Reminet, if you remember restaurants that way. Tel 01.43.29.25.20

[ann]

Thanks, John. Le Petit Pontoise and le Pre Verre are also on my list because of the NYT article, and perhaps L'Equitable. The apartment we rent is at 8 rue des Grands Degres, right across from Le Reminet, so we're very familiar with it. It's varied tremendously over the last few years -- have you eaten there lately?

Edited March 10, 2004 by ann (log)

[John Talbott]

Yes. I last ate at Le Reminet on January 4th and considering the choices for Sunday lunch, I find it holds up (I had a very nice entre of moules, coques and homard and a well-prepared pave de biche). Among my group of seasoned eaters, 4 of us in Paris, I remain the most impressed with it, the others hold your position, that it's been variable over the years.

FYI: L'Equitable has gone back and forth about weekend openings, but is once again open for Sunday lunch with only one "menu" at 30E (Yves Mutin says the carte is much the same as on other days, i.e., not a "brunch.") I was there Feb 21st and had a wonderful creme of lentils with fine big langoustines followed by a grand chunk of magret de canard, topped of with a spectacular dessert, a creme of citron with fruits on top and 3 mini crepes suzettes for 43E I still think it's great and put it above Le Pre Verre.

Have you tried La Maison de Jardin, 27 Rue d Vaugirard, 6th, 01.45.48.22.31 Very good and good price. Lots of choices. A sample lunch is a veloute of green asparagus with morilles terrific, foie de voie done just right with wild mushrooms, an unusual Paris-Brest and a pot of wine 25 cl for 43E.

Also last summer I rediscovered Au Bon Accueil, 14 rue de Monttessuy, 7th, 01.47.05.46.11, and it's consistantly good, on 2/26 it was just terrific, terrine of beef with mango sauce, foie de veau with interesting topping, choc moelleux. 37E

[Margaret Pilgrim]

FWIW, we visited Le Reminet sometime mid-2003 on a Sunday night. It was packed and so terribly noisy that we couldn't hold a conversation across the table. Both of our entrees and main courses were quite good, but we asked for the check before dessert or coffee. The chef came out and asked if everything was alright, and I told him that we simply had to leave because the noise was giving my husband a terrible headache. The chef asked us please to return, but to demand a table in the cellar, which he assured us was much more civilized. And with a wink, "locals, not tourists".