Sansom Street Oyster House

[rlibkind]

Before heading to the Philadelphia Orchestra's opening concert in its Mahler's World series tonight, I stopped by Sansom Street Oyster House for their happy hour.

Blue Points for $5 a half dozen! Fresh, cold, bracingly good. What a deal. I got a full dozen. Downed 'em with some Stoudt's winter ale; they also had Yards Philadelphia Pale on tap, as well as a few other brews.

Still hungry, so I got a plate of simple fried calamari. Whoever is handling the deep-frying duties there is a master. Light, crisp, not greasy, essence of calamari. As good if not better than any I've had anywhere in South Phila.

SSOH isn't fancy, and its fish will never be cutting edge (though they did have bronzino about two years before anyone else in town). But Cary Neff knows what works and hasn't messed with the tradition he inherited from David Mink. It's a classic quality fish house, one of the under-appreciated gems of Philadelphia.

Now if only they'd improve the french fries....

(PS: Mahler's Third was superb.)

[SG-]

Will have to revisit, the one and only time I dined there, oysters were subpar for an oyster house and entrees were tasteless.

I do crave oysters though and have altogether given up on the inconsistent quality from local retailers. Those blue points are a deal at $5!!

[ludja]

Over New Years we did the same thing; stopped by Sansome before the symphony (London, Berlin, Vienna: Ute Lemper and the Seven Deadly Sins, Hayden Symphony no. 98, selections from Richard Strauss', Der Rosenkavalier".)-- wonderful program...

We had some great oysters including some I had for the first time: Cape May; these were wonderfully briny. All the oysters were fresh and properly shucked. We also had some great cherrystones on the half shell.

We also had some fried littlenecks (I was still in the mood after having some perfect ones from Jasper White's, Summer Shack up north). These were only ok--the texture of the clams was less tender and more rubbery. In any case, I'd definately go back for oysters--and also probably give the littlenecks another try; I like them alot.

Edited February 20, 2004 by ludja (log)

[rlibkind]

SG: Do give it another try. My only complaint about the oysters is that the shucker's technique is to crack the lip, rather than work the hinge. In some respects, this is an easier approach, and more likely to avoid loss of liquor if your not perfect, but it can leave occasional bits of shell in with the oyster. One would hope that at an oyster house the shucker would have the necessary expertise to work the hinge. Maybe he was in training.

The $5 for half a dozen deal is only 5-7 p.m., and only for the Long Islands. all other oysters are at the regular price, which is $2+. I tried the Cape May salts earlier this season, and while okay, I prefer the Maine belons if I'm not doing the happy hour thing. But the Long Islands were everything I want in an oyster. There's also a similarly good deal in raw clams for happy hour.

As for the fried littlenecks you reported as rubbery, I don't doubt that. In my experience, fried littlenecks are always rubbery; it's the nature of the hard clam, to my mind. When I want fried clams, I want soft-belly clams, a.k.a. "steamers". I looked for them on the menu but they didn't have them last night; sometimes they do. In fact, I'm not sure fried clams in any form were on the menu. Fried oysters and calamari, yes, but I don't recall fried clams. The menu, of course, changes according to what's available.

Ludja: Ute Lemper was out-of-sight! She and Weill were made for each other. Right after her Orchestra appearance she opened a NYC cabaret gig and knocked 'em dead.

[cinghiale]

And don't forget the seasonally rotating "upscale" oyster selection ('though pricey, @ $10-13/half-dozen). In researching an upcoming Bay Area trip that is to include (hopefully) a trip to the Hog Island Oyster Company (Tomales Bay/Marin County), I got a hankering for some bivalves and headed to the SSOH. See there! They had 'em on the menu, and they were terrific: sizeable, plumb, sweet. Also sampled six Kachemaks (Alaska), which the menu claims can only be had on the East Coast at the SSOH. Though smallish, they had a delicate, briney flavor.

A list of all oysters the SSOH will generally carry at some point during the year can be found here (pdf file).

[ludja]

As for the fried littlenecks you reported as rubbery, I don't doubt that. In my experience, fried littlenecks are always rubbery; it's the nature of the hard clam, to my mind. When I want fried clams, I want soft-belly clams, a.k.a. "steamers". I looked for them on the menu but they didn't have them last night; sometimes they do. In fact, I'm not sure fried clams in any form were on the menu. Fried oysters and calamari, yes, but I don't recall fried clams. The menu, of course, changes according to what's available.

Could be; I do think the ones I had previously that were not rubbery were labeled "belly" or "soft belly".

(It would be fun to see Ute Lemper in a smaller venue like a cabaret).

[sara]

I highly recommend the Stellar Bays from British Columbia, which Sansom St has occasionally. Out of this world and worth the price. I recently ate at the Grand Central Oyster Bar and was unimpressed...Done much better elsewhere in NY and certainly on the West Coat (i.e. Swan Oyster Depot), but Sansom St ain't a bad deal for Philly.

[rlibkind]

...but Sansom St ain't a bad deal for Philly.

SSOH isn't a bad deal when compared to anywhere other than gliding on a boat over an oyster bed! I will have to try those Stellar Bays.

[deprofundis]

SSOH has closed and filed for Chapter 11:

http://blogs.phillynews.com/inquirer/fooda...som_street.html

The founder and owner of the building, David Mink, is expected to re-open the business with his son in charge.

[Holly Moore]

It is always sad when a business fails. At the same time, great to see the Mink family back at the helm.

Now, if they will only tear down Liberty Place and bring back Mole Street.

And Dewey's at the corner of 17th and Market.

Edited June 6, 2008 by Holly Moore (log)

[KatieLoeb]

Mr. Mink stopped by at Chick's not long ago with a friend, and I was very happy to see him. Although technically, I never worked for him, he was always very kind and gracious to me, as was his entire family whenever they stopped in while I did work there.

I'm sorry for the long time staff at SSOH. There are some really nice folks (mostly BOH) that have literally worked there for decades. Also office personnel that are unseen, but keep the place running. They're all out of a job now with no severance except unemployment. That sucks. Some of the newer and younger staff are also out of work, but I suspect should be able to find suitable employ elsewhere in any of the newer restaurants just opened/opening around town. But it sucks to get blindsided and suddenly be unemployed. Been there. Done that.

Here's to hoping SSOH returns to its former glory under the new (old) tenure.

Edited June 6, 2008 by KatieLoeb (log)