Anthony's, Leeds

[Gary Marshall]

hi robin

wine list is quite comprehensive, i wouldn't say it's their strongest point but if you know what you want it will be served correctly in the right glasses.

The food is so unconventional a lot of the obvious food/wine matches might not stand up, so i'd say go for what you fancy drinking, one of my guests on saturday paid corkage to bring a 2001 fontagne-gagnard criots-batard-montrachet and a 1997 aldo conterno barolo cicala and he hadn't seen a menu beforehand, they were very good

i've had rieslings, red/white burgundy & italian red oh, and the house (italian) white too.

i'm sure you won't go thirsty

the ischian desert wine is quite unusual and good too if you like that sort of thing.

cheers

gary

Edited June 24, 2004 by Gary Marshall (log)

[YKL]

I wasn't paying much attention to the alcohol list when I went but Gary (as the expert here!) - am I right in thinking there was quite a range of beers to try? so that could be a bit different?

also - do we know if they're thinking of doing a website?

Cheers

Yin

[MobyP]

Charlie and Robin - welcome to eGullet.

[Gary Marshall]

I wasn't paying much attention to the alcohol list when I went but Gary (as the expert here!) - am I right in thinking there was quite a range of beers to try? so that could be a bit different?

also - do we know if they're thinking of doing a website?

Cheers

Yin

yes there is a range of beers i vaguely remember a raspberry beer which was very, well raspberry-ery, that i will try again sometime.

there is a full beer menu but it's not really my cup of tea. i don't stroll much further than hoegaarden away from my beloved lager

from early conversations with tony snr a web site is planned but guess they're too busy running a full restaurant at the moment!

gary

[Plutocrat]

Yep, there is a wide range of unusual beers to try, including the £20 / bottle "Dom Perignon alike" already mentioned. I think the main focus is on small independant brewers from the US. I did try a nice Boston one IIRC - nice and fruity. Anthony Sr is very knowledgeable and keen to expand your horizons.

Think I'll go for the champagne one as an aperitif next time - got to try everything once

P

[Gary Marshall]

i have tried that, it was interesting and i liked the idea of it, but a glass was enough to quell my curiosity.

got to try these things though!

gary

[Gary Marshall]

the menu from saturday just through.....

Kalamansi Lime Whisky Sour

***

Beetroot Sherbet

***

Parmesan Wafers

***

Home Made loaf with duck, Parmesan, & plain butters

***

Fern Asparagus, Toffee, and Balsamic Vinaigrette

***

Squab and Crab Sausage (Stuffed Squab Leg with White Crab Meat)

***

Roast Razor Clams, Garlic Mousse

***

Langoustines, Fennel Tea Consommé

***

Roast Monkfish, Enoki Mushrooms, Foie Gras and Baby Artichoke Brulee

***

Duck Breast, Chocolate and Olive Oil Bonbon

***

Parsnip Iced Powder

***

Reconstructed Apple Tatin

***

Chocolate Raviolis, Butterscotch Cream

***

Chocolate and Kikos

***

Spiced Bread and Yoghurt

i'll add further descriptions when i have a mo.....

cheers

gary

[Plutocrat]

I'm guessing the champers beer wasn't quite to your taste then ?

P

[Gary Marshall]

I'm guessing the champers beer wasn't quite to your taste then ?

P

i had a glass at the opening party, i know there was something that didn't appeal, i think it might have been a bit sweet but could be wrong. can't remember that far back

i tried with a chef mate of tony's and we both went straight back onto lager afterwards so i think it might be a bit of a personal thing.

don't let me put you off trying it, if i went with someone who wanted to try it i'd have another go, at the end of the day it's cold, wet and alcoholic so you can't go too far wrong

gary

[Plutocrat]

at the end of the day it's cold, wet and alcoholic so you can't go too far wrong 

Indeed

Edit: Sorry don't know how to attribute a quote to someone in my post Gary.

Edited June 24, 2004 by Plutocrat (log)

[Bapi]

Don't worry that quote will be on his Gravestone

[Charlie O]

Went to Anthony's for lunch on Friday and came away very impressed. As you've said, Gary, the technique on display is superb.

We started with a couple of amuses - including the beet root sherbert which had a sweet but fresh taste. After a small loaf with two types of butter, we had the white onion risotto with parmesan air and the squab with garlic. The risotto was one of the most memorable dishes I've had in a long time. The 'air' was surprisingly flavoursome and the espresso bean grinds at the bottom gave the dish just the right note.

For mains I had the duck with chocolate bonbon. The flavours worked really well, with the chocolate providing an instant sensation and then allowing the longer taste of the duck (perfectly cooked) to break through. My girlfriend had the salt cod and pork cannelloni. The salt cod was delicately cooked but she felt the pok belly cannelloni was slightly too rich.

A pre dessert of almond ice cream was followed with the chocolate fondant. I had been eyeing the reconstructed tarte tartin but my girlfriend was too. The chocolate fondant had an artichoke caramel with a very subtle taste.

The service was very friendly. I think it was Anthony Snr who we spent some time talking to. He was keen to push the beers as an option and given the nature of some of the food this would have been an interesting option (next time...). As it was, our wine was served slightly too warm but this was the only (small) bad point in an otherwise excellent meal.

[wgallois]

Went to Anthony's for the first time on Saturday and a had a very good time indeed.

Aperitif: Deus, the 'champage-beer' much-discussed already on the thread. Tasty and I liked the drama of having lager popped from a champagne bottle and then poured into Riedel flutes. I think the beer menu is a fantastic selling-point for the restaurant.

Course 1: Raspberry gimlet - a super whisky and rasberry-based cocktail in a shot glass. Very deep raspberry flavours and probably the first whisky Becky has ever enjoyed (and she's tried hard with single malts, blends, toddies. cocktails... etc.)

2: White asparagus tips, which came with grape and a couple of other things. Nothing special.

3: Paprika crisp: yummy, greasy prawn-cracker-alike dusted with paprika. Works well with beer!

4: The loaf of bread with butters: nice, but a shame it wasn't warm.

5: White onion risotto with espresso and parmesan air: a very good dish, particularly the risotto itself. I felt the grains of espressp might be omitted from the base of the dish, but kept in the air where their effect seemed more pleasing.

6: Salad of quinoa, pickled radishes, fern asparagus, enoki mushrooms, shallots and rocket: A truly delicious dish. Reminded me of one of my favourite dishes of all time which was a pickled salad that Angela Hartnett used to cook when she was in Dubai. I'm not sure how the quinoa had been prepared but it was really rich and there was an excellent play of contrasts going on in the dish.

7: Plate of cheese requested by us as I was not yet super-full... All delicious and in good condition. The Lancashire-style cheeses were exceptional.

8: Pre-dessert of chocolate sorbet: nice, but similar to supermarket chocolate mousse as far as I was concerned (Becky found it much more satisfying and deeper in flavour).

9: Chocolate fondant with peanut ice cream and an artichoke caramel (for me) and the reconstructed tarte tatin (for Becky): the former was much better than the latter, as the peanut and choclolate were a real winning combination. I didn't feel the puddings exhibited the level of complexity found elsewhere in the meal, or in similar restaurants.

10: Petit fours were chocolates in roasted corn: these really showed what the chef could do with sweet dishes. They were sensationally good and this fantastic combination of flavours will always remain with me.

The service was OK, though we were quite pissed off early-on when the maitre d' jumped the gun and chastised us for not having told them we were vegetarian, when we in fact had told them this (this is the second time we have been 'told-off' for supposedly not pre-announcing our vegetarianism and it is beginning to grate a little...) The key thing, as the menu above illustrates, is that Anthony had prepared a really great menu for us, and the food was excellent. There are some misses at the moment, but the hits are real hits, and what is more they are both imaginative and tasty. The gimlet, salad and corn chocolates were three of the best things I've had all year. There are clearly interesting Japanese and Latin American influences on his cooking, as well as the more expected European influences, and I'm sure that egulleteers are right to have identified this as a restaurant to follow. Cost was £93 before service, which seemed very reasonable (it also included a half-bottle of Sancerre and a raspberry beer).

Edited June 28, 2004 by wgallois (log)

[BertieWooster]

Hi,

last time I was there I remembered to inform them beforehand of veggieness, and they were lovely.

Unlike Mr Underhill's in Ludlow who were informed weeks in advance and still could only come up with grilled halloumi. Now, I've had halloumi and I've had shoe leather, and I know which I prefer.

[Suzi Edwards]

Hi,

last time I was there I remembered to inform them beforehand of veggieness, and they were lovely.

Unlike Mr Underhill's in Ludlow who were informed weeks in advance and still could only come up with grilled halloumi. Now, I've had halloumi and I've had shoe leather, and I know which I prefer.

lol. in this day and age you'd think people would be able to accomodate anything.

i'm in chicago at the moment and two strange food related thigns happened yesterday; i was served an atkins pizza (no bread, just sausage meat, mentioned elsewhere on this board) and i was offered a vegan menu in a high-end-ish chinese restaurant.

a whole menu *just* for the vegans. offered every night. there was a vegan desert and everything.

[BertieWooster]

that sounds lovely...well, the idea (the reality may have been less than lovely I guess).

Last time I was in Phoenix (that's a song I believe), we took to drinking in a ribs place as they had great jazz on. They got used to me not eating and everyone else doing so. On the last night, they presented me with a specially flame grilled veg. kebab. Not haute cuisine, but the thought was lovely...

[YKL]

received my latest copy of Olive magazine last night, and there was another glowing review from Garrey Dylan Dawson - think he is the head chef at the Fat Duck?

Can Anthony do no wrong?!

Can't get a weblink to the article though

cheers

Yin

edited for my stupidity ...

Edited July 2, 2004 by YKL (log)

[Gary Marshall]

The service was OK, though we were quite pissed off early-on when the maitre d' jumped the gun and chastised us for not having told them we were vegetarian, when we in fact had told them this (this is the second time we have been 'told-off' for supposedly not pre-announcing our vegetarianism and it is beginning to grate a little...) The key thing, as the menu above illustrates, is that Anthony had prepared a really great menu for us, and the food was excellent.

As i read the menu, my thoughts were exactly that- had you told them, because the short menu make no concessions for anyone who doesn't like anthony's vision.

He's certainly not predujudiced against veggies in the early days he did a full menu and called it 3 chefs 4 hours because that's how long they took to do just one menu.

gary

[Andy Lynes]

Garrey Dylan Dawson - think he is the head chef at the Fat Duck?

Used to be, now of Heston's Riveside Brasserie.

[BertieWooster]

Spent Saturday morning trailing round the sales with Mrs. W. and managed to get to Anthony's for 1-30. The idea was to have finished shopping and then relax for the afternoon. It didn't quite work out like that, as there was this suit I wanted and some shoes she wanted, but resting for two or so hours in the underground cool in delightful company was an excellent way of breaking up an otherwise mad day.

Not at all busy, except for the Maitre D' of No. 3 at another table, who was checking out the competition in the nicest possible way (and taking bookings for that evening).

Pina Colada to start, slush puppy style it says here on Olga's very helpful notes. Just what I needed after the heat of the sales. Wait a moment for it to de-freeze, then pineapple flavours tickling the throat.

The beetroot sherbert afterwards I adored, Mrs. W. was less in love with--possibly she didn't spend her childhood sucking on sherbert dabs.

And the amuse--Roast White Asparagus tips with mayonnaise and cassis vinagrette. Served on a very Japanese black slab, this was one of those 'make each spoonfull smaller' type of dishes, the four tips just didn't go on long enough (though, of course, any more would have ruined the perfection of the dish).

Langoustines for Mrs. W., served in a bowl to which the consomme was added--obviously reminiscent of Oriental soup, the hiss of steam bringing out the flavours. Fresh crab for me with frozen yogurt. Beautifully presented on a long thin slate, the meat delicate as could be.

On Mains, I had the Roast Monkfish, which managed to resonate with oaky flavours, the accompanying enoki woody and satisfyingly tough compared to the fish. Pickled radishes went zing around the mouth. This usually comes with a meat-based stock, but in deference to my non-proper meat eating ways, it had been swapped.

My partner had the Duck, which you've all heard about before. Not being one usually for the meat and fruit thing, she was surprised to really enjoy. Helped no doubt by the perfect pinkness of the duck.

Tatin and cheeses to finish. THe Tatin was something special, as has previously been noted.

Just over £100 including a bottle of house bubbly and pre-lunch drinks.

Chats with Olga and Holly (?--Anthony's sister who looks after the bar) confirmed that Saturday nights are now booking six weeks in advance, though there is a cancellation list. Things seem to have settled down a bit and they're all now getting used to the lifestyle, with a little bit more time to get some rest! The family feel of the place continues (and I hope it doesn't lose it), Anthony's sis was extolling the virtues, quite correctly, of working really hard for something that's shared between the family members. It was good to have a bit of time as the meal unfolded to find out how things were going.

Oh, and Olga pointed out Gary's table. Soon, he'll have his nameplate on it. <g>

Two final points on the food overall. One is the level of technical excellence to which many have made allusions. which allows the simple things (like the cooking of the duck, the presentation of the crab) to be done very well. There's a core of good cooking here that's not affected by the 'fancy' stuff on top.

The second is the voluntarism implicit in the experimentation. The duck doesn't come with a chocolate sauce that can't be avoided. Rather, once the bon bon is cracked, one can choose exactly how much of this experiment one wants to engage with (same with the crab and the yogurt or whatever). At the heart of each dish is something that stands up to scrutiny for the basics. It's a democratic spirit that is very engaging, and allows more people to experiment than otherwise might.

And we'll no doubt be back within the fortnight.

[Gary Marshall]

Not at all busy, except for the Maitre D' of No. 3 at another table, who was checking out the competition in the nicest possible way (and taking bookings for that evening).

Oh, and Olga pointed out Gary's table. Soon, he'll have his nameplate on it. <g>

what a great idea

Saw denis from no3 on the way home last night he enjoyed his lunch, he's been a few times now, as have olga and tony to number 3, nice to see some camaraderie amongst the restaurants, for example pool court bought some new kit and wanted help with it, so they spent a day in the kitchen at Anthony's getting assisitance, don't think you'd get that in london!

time to feel sorry for gary again dinner at no3 this friday night and lunch at anthony's on saturday can't wait

Edited July 13, 2004 by Gary Marshall (log)

[Bapi]

Not at all busy, except for the Maitre D' of No. 3 at another table, who was checking out the competition in the nicest possible way (and taking bookings for that evening).

Oh, and Olga pointed out Gary's table. Soon, he'll have his nameplate on it. <g>

what a great idea

time to feel sorry for gary again dinner at no3 this friday night and lunch at anthony's on saturday can't wait

I am begining to dislike you Marshall

[Gary Marshall]

I am begining to dislike you Marshall

it's taken you longer than most

and don't say you weren't shown the offer of the trip!

gary

[Plutocrat]

lunch at anthony's on saturday  can't wait

Dinner on Saturday myself I'll just miss eating in the same restaurant as the hallowed Gary.

However - may have the special honour of eating at his table. (I wonder if you can reserve it )

[Bapi]

Dinner on Saturday myself I'll just miss eating in the same restaurant as the hallowed Gary.

However - may have the special honour of eating at his table. (I wonder if you can reserve it )

I hear it's been specially re-enforced in his honour. You know that was coming Gary.

And yes, I had I not been stuffing myself full of tapas in Barcelona this weekend, wild horses couldn't have kept me away Sir.