Compass

[oakapple]

Florence Fabricant reports that Katy Sparks has left Compass, the UWS restaurant that now needs its fourth executive chef in two years. The article cites a book deal with Knopf, which sounds like a cover story—not that she doesn't really have a deal, but that there's probably more to it than that. Amanda Hesser's demotion from two stars down to one can't have helped.

Edited June 30, 2004 by oakapple (log)

[rich]

From reading eGullet, I've come to a single irrefutable conclusion - Amada Hesser wields more power than Alan Greenspan!

[ellenesk]

If memory serves, the hesser review focused more on the poor service, than the food.

[Daniel]

I thought amanda complained about the decor and ambiance, while i bitched about the service. The night i went, my waiter did not have full understanding of the english language, any of the dishes he was serving, or restaurant policy. However i thought the food was really good. Desserts included. Amanda seemed to make fun of the decor that a few months prior Grimes seem to applaud.

Who knows.. The only comparison that could be made between greenspan and hesser is there ability to rate restaurants appropriately.

[bloviatrix]

Has anyone ever heard of a chef leaving a restaurant because of a book deal? When I saw that, it made me suspicious. Like Oakapple says, it seems like a convienent excuse.

[rozrapp]

Oy! I'm beginning to think that my husband and I have some sort of spooky kiss of death for Compass chefs. Last fall, just after we had an excellent meal there, Mark Andelbradt left. Two weeks ago, we finally got to try Katy Sparks' food at a pre-ballet dinner, and now she's upped and left.

I never did get around to writing up a report. Not that it really matters now, but the meal overall was quite good. My lamb main course, in particular, was stellar.

While I know there have been complaints about service since Compass opened, we have never had any problem in that regard. During this last dinner, it was excellent. In fact, our server really put himself out when our daughter, who was supposed to meet us at Lincoln Center, surprised us when we were having dessert by showing up at the restaurant. We were seated in a booth that could seat four, so she slipped in beside me. She said she could go for something small, and our server couldn't have been nicer about discussing the different appetizers with her, having a bread basket and butter brought to the table, and seeing to it that her order was expedited. When he brought our goody bags containing those outrageously delicious scones, he included one for her.

I've always been a fan of Compass and hope they weather this latest departure.

[Suzanne F]

I'm just sorry to have missed Katy Sparks there. I loved her food at Quilty's.

[Daniel]

Went to the Elvis Costello concert last night and had planned on meeting this girl at Rosa Mexicano right across the street from Avery F.. I have never been to Rosa and didnt realize that it was so important! So after managing to come to my senses after finding myself standing on the street holding a beeper, i decided to see see how things are at Compass after Ms Sparks bounced.

The menu has pretty much stayed on the same course. They have kept a couple of the old appetizers, and changed some. I was upset to find the maya shrimp gone.. However, i quickly recovered after seeing the Rabbit and clams Arrabiata. This dish is still very good.

Since we had an 8 oclock show and i was set back from the Rosa thing, we had to hurry. We had a salad that had diced asparagus, chickpeas, hearts of palm, celery,carrot,and blue cheese. It had a lemon vinegarette. It was refreshing. Definately something i will make for a cp concert picnic.

Next we had soft shell crab in a plantain sauce. There were other things going on in the plantain sauce, but it primarily tasted like dipping crab into bannana fosters sauce. I ended up eating the crab with the arrabiatta.

Then carpaccio with fleur de sal and charred scallions. Served on the side was lobster and feta cheese, and toasted bread. Not bad.

Overall, this place was better then I thought it was going to be, but it was still not good. They have there sous chef working the kitchen and he is making dishes and trying hard. But it just has no umph.

Curious to see what the stoopid managment will fill the kitchen with this time. I spoke to the waiter and he basically said that Katy didnt like having to turn so many tables. That she liked a smaller intimate setting. But what the hell does he know. I am sure she confided her thoughts with the world.

After the concert went to Rosa Mexicano. Had the guacomole. It sucked. No lime? Place is pretty blah.

[ellenesk]

Anyone been to compass since Katy Sparks left?

[goldface]

Anyone been to compass since Katy Sparks left?

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[jeffperez62]

I have not heard much on egullet about Compass in the last few weeks. Who is the current chef?? Has any one been there recently?? If so, how was it?

[Felonius]

I heard bad things when it first opened so didn't bother going, but have heard nothing since. I walked by during brunch last weekend. There was a line out the door waiting for tables at Cafe Luxembourg, and not a single diner next door at Compass. I think the food at Cafe Lux is mediocre at best, so why no one was willing to blow off the long wait to try Compass had me wondering. Next time I'm in NYC I'll give Compass a try and report back.

[oakapple]

Katy Sparks departed earlier this year, and I'm not aware they've even announced a new executive chef. I would wait awhile.

[Mulcahy]

Katy Sparks departed earlier this year, and I'm not aware they've even announced a new executive chef. I would wait awhile.

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The Compass website indicates that Valdo Figuereido will be the new executive chef. He was formerly the executive chef at Keen's Steakhouse. This explains the recent ads I have seen in the Times which refer to Compass as "the place for steaks on the Upper West Side."

[oakapple]

The Compass website indicates that the new executive chef is someone called Valdo Figueiredo. Anyone heard of him?

[rozrapp]

I have heard that his most recent position was as a chef (not sure of rank) at Keens. Since Compass ads in the NY Times a few weeks ago indicated that they are morphing into a steakhouse, this would be the reason for choosing him to run their kitchen.

[oakapple]

I have heard that his most recent position was as a chef (not sure of rank) at Keens.  Since Compass ads in the NY Times a few weeks ago indicated that they are morphing into a steakhouse, this would be the reason for choosing him to run their kitchen.

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Yes indeed. The menu has a new section, "From Our Broiler." Choices include petit filet mignon ($24), double lamb chops ($28), young veal chop ($32), full-size filet ($34), sirloin ($35), t-bone ($38), or the "Compass Signature," a 40oz porterhouse for two ($72). By New York standards, these are very attractive prices for steaks. Non-steak mains are in the range of Angel Hair Pasta ($19) to Lobster ($32), with others from $22-28. The early-bird prix-fixe is $33 for three courses.

[Bond Girl]

Went to Coompass last night for dinner...May be it's new year and everyone is off, but the place is an exercise in mediocrity. The decor is really dingey...done properly the place could have looked like a glamourous 30's or 40's supper club/dance hall, but as is it just looks run down with the flourescent light running under the frosted glass cabinets making it look cheaper.

The food was equally unappealing and uncreative. I had the hudson valley foie gras with some sort of sweet puree and brandied sour cherries, it wasn't bad but it wasn't good either. Entree was a wild salmon with what appears to be sauerkraut, dotted with black beans. The salmon was expertly cooked, but the combination was simply unappealing. Delce de leche semifreddo is barely passable, with spongey marshmellows and indistinguishable chocolate sauce. Each dish came in monster portions to make up for the totally lacking in taste or finess.

As for the service...like the rest of the meal, it wasn't the worst but could definitely be better. Then again, I could just be spoiled....I want my water glass refilled constantly, unless I say so.....I want my server to ask if I want another glass of wine when my glass runs out....unless I say so....and I don't want to have to flag a server down only to be told that it's not her table....

Then again, I may just be difficult.

[Daniel]

For some reason, maybe because of the constant chef changes or the consistantly ok service, I feel that the owners/management are strictly in to make money. It always has had potential, but always came across as cold and uninspiring. I was most happy with Katey behind the wheel, but I really have no desire to go back to this place. There are too many great places in this city too waste my time while they get there act together once again.

[slkinsey]

I have a friend who lives practically across the street from Compass, and one thing he has observed is that they close the restaurant somewhat frequently for private functions.

[oakapple]

For some reason, maybe because of the constant chef changes or the consistantly ok service, I feel that the owners/management are strictly in to make money.

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Most restaurants are in business to make money. I doubt that these owners are much different in that regard. Probably they're as frustrated as anybody that none of their re-inventions has lasted very long.

The new steakhouse formula might make sense, as there aren't a lot of steakhouses in that immediate neighborhood, and it's an easier format to get right.

[slkinsey]

Adam Platt weighed in on Compass under new chef John Fraser (apparently yet another new chef since Compass was last discussed here) in New York Magazine:

Some of the food in this great blizzard of concepts and flavors is very good, and some of it, not surprisingly, seems a little confused. Fraser is finding his way, but it also feels like he’s bent on packing as much of his considerable culinary repertoire into the menu as possible before the ax comes down again. At least that was my malicious thought as the first appetizers appeared, laden with showy slices of truffle, caviar, and tufts of neatly arranged mâche. The mâche belonged to the octopus tentacle, which was expertly charred but monstrously large, like the lost appendage of a giant squid. The truffled risotto (with summer peas and a hint of mint) was excellent, however, and so was the American Kobe-beef carpaccio, which had a smooth, tartarelike texture.

[pierre45]

WE HAVE BEEN EATING AT COMPASS for years .Its like a revolving door, chefs come and go. We enjoyed it mostly when it was named marika and under chef katy sparks however our recent dinner with the latest chef John fraser was really mediocre at best.Its very amateurish.there is an effort to be creative that ends up as duds.Too bad.the location of the restaurant because of its closeness to Lincoln center is excellent

[SobaAddict70]

A friend and I ordered a rather ambiguously described appetizer of lamb, and what arrived were indulgently fatty, luscious rectangles of braised lamb belly, arrayed around a circle of bibb lettuce, radicchio and sunflower seeds.

Some of what we had was unimpressive or off-key. An appetizer of grilled sea scallops with a dill crème fraîche had an oddly chemical, almost detergentlike taste.

Compass (Frank Bruni)

Related discussion regarding Mr. Bruni's reviewing style and the star system can be found here.

Soba

[oakapple]

I last visited Compass (208 W 70th St, west of Amsterdam Ave) during its brief steakhouse phase, enjoying a wonderful rack of lamb on that occasion. The restaurant will still serve you a dry aged porterhouse or a rib-eye, but the emphasis now is on "Creative American Cuisine." A friend and I looked in on the continuing experiment on Saturday night. She was last there with me three chefs ago, and pronounced the current version a significant improvement.

There is a prix fixe menu at $32 (or $46 with paired wines). It looks like a good value, but the available entrées (chicken, salmon, or hangar steak) didn't suit our mood, so we ordered ALC. She chose the Gazpacho ($9), I the White Corn and Summer Truffle risotto ($18), a wonderful if slightly watery concoction.

The restaurant calls its ALC main courses "Compositions." There is also a section of the menu called "Simply Roasted," which offers mostly steaks (anywhere from $24 for a fillet or $72 for the porterhouse for two); side dishes are extra, at $8. If you order one of the Compositions, I should think the side dishes were superfluous.

Anyhow, I chose the Confit of Halibut, with Baby Squash, Artichokes, Picholine Olives, and Basil Sabayon ($28). She chose the Poached Maine Lobster with Potatoes, Summer Truffles, Leeks and Onions ($33). Both were happy choices, aided and abetted by a terrific Chardonnay on the wine list for about $40.

We concluded with a selection of cheeses ($12), to which the restaurant added a selection of complimentary petits-fours (five apiece). As we were leaving, we were each handed coffee cakes to take home for Sunday's breakfast—a nice touch usually associated with higher-end places.

Part of Compass's problem, I suspect, is that it's an unusually large space for the area. I don't think I've ever seen it full. Here's hoping that the latest formula will take root and flourish.