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Posted

Despite a perceived obsession with all things foodie in SF, I find some glaring exceptions. Cafe culture stormed the streets in the '90s, and by the turn of the millennium scarcely a street corner was left unadorned with a new coffeehouse (especially in the Mission, where I live). So why is it so damned hard to find a decent espresso?

To disclose my predilections: I'm benchmarking against the real deal in Italy (or possibly Spain; I am partial to the coffee there). I expect a modest amount of hair-raisingly strong, rich and complex brew, with a head of crema that can support a packet's-worth of sugar for a full count of 3 to 6 seconds. I'm more fond of Illy than Lavazza, but heck, any of it beats 99% of American roasts. By contrast to the above points of coffee perfection, what one normally gets is a dilute, flat liquid in quantities sufficient to half-fill a diner coffee cup, bitter and utterly de-crema-fied.

Even some of my coffee haunts (like Cafe deStijl) have lost the barista's touch. For daily dosage, my handy stovetop pot fits the bill -- in fact, my cousin from Rome, during an extended visit to the States, declared that I make the best espresso in America. But it doesn't create crema, and therefore just misses the Nirvana-like state of bliss that true espresso delivers.

So where do YOU get your short shot?

-Sean

Hedonia

Eating, drinking and living the good life in San Francisco

Posted (edited)

A few to try:

Cafe Greco uses Illy beans, and makes a quite satisfying espresso, though I personally would rather go to Cafe Puccini.

Cafe Roma also turns out a respectable product.

Any of these places will know what you want if you ask for a "ristretto" (which it sounds like you prefer), "lungo" (though who would want that?), "breve", "macchiato", etc. At Roma I believe you could even get a "corretto' if you wanted. Not sure about the others.

Cheers,

Squeat

Edited to add: all are in North Beach.

And to add: but if you are convinced you make the best espresso in America, and Italy agrees with you, you may still be disappointed.

Edited by Squeat Mungry (log)
Posted

We make ours at home, our standard beans are Perugia from Torrefazione, there are a few of them around. If I get a cappucino from them I get it "dry" I find most places add way too much milk. I vote for Cafe Trieste as well. And if you're up north a bit, recently discovered Flying Goat in Healdsburg.

I always check the beans a place is selling. If the espresso beans are in the dark roast section, I don't buy an espresso from them. The Italians use medium roast, and I much prefer that. Took me forever to figure out that most of the espresso here is dark roast.

Look forward to hearing about other places

Posted
Caffe Trieste in north beach is where I get espresso in the city.

You must go at odd hours. I haven't been able to get a table there in about 35 years. Now I'm a Puccini weenie like Squeat Mungry. It kind of galls me to go to a place that hasn't been there since before I was born, and to drink coffee made by a machine that weighs less than I do, but I guess that's progress.

Posted
Caffe Trieste in north beach is where I get espresso in the city.

You must go at odd hours. I haven't been able to get a table there in about 35 years. Now I'm a Puccini weenie like Squeat Mungry. It kind of galls me to go to a place that hasn't been there since before I was born, and to drink coffee made by a machine that weighs less than I do, but I guess that's progress.

Hey Gary,

It's the most 'Italian' place in the City (Puccini I mean), and you can't get much better than that. They have a killer foccacia sandwich as well.

Trieste of course used to be great until... what? It's still great I assume, but I'm certainly not going to wait on those street corners until the tourists leave.

How do you feel about Malvina?

And how about Mario's, eh?

Cheers,

Squeat

Posted

Ah yes, all excellent suggestions ... I guess the problem is that I live in the Mission instead of North Beach. I used to work up near Pier 39 (*shudder*), and would frequently (read: 4+ times/week) trundle down to NB for lunch. I do miss Mario's, definitely, likewise L'Osteria del Forno. Steps of Rome, tho not the greatest restaurant in the area, does produce a nice shot. I agree that Trieste makes a fine product as well. And I do frequent Torrefazione, as there's one catercorner from my office. All are good, even very good, but somehow...

I suppose the perfect espresso sits in that ethereal realm with mozzarella di bufala, san marzano tomatoes and even basil -- all just better over there, due to the combination of sun, soil and who knows what other factors that we can't quite approximate.

Hedonia

Eating, drinking and living the good life in San Francisco

Posted
How do you feel about Malvina?

And how about Mario's, eh?

Well, they've both been there long enough, though I recall when Malvina's was just a bakery (famous for for its Cialde) and later a coffee roaster (good, but not Graffeo). It wasn't a coffee house in my beatnik/existentialist days. Mario's is a treasure, but as a coffee house it has a claustrophobic feel to it (not enough room for a lot of people to spread out their Sunday Times like the slow readers always did at Caffee Trieste).

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