Offal plates in Lyon

[Margaret Pilgrim]

We were to spend four nights in Lyon, and it was my intent to do a bouchon crawl and consume as much variety meats as I could, since I can't find that kind of food at home.

Unfortunately, we arrived in Lyon from Paris quite sated, and it seemed better sense to try to eat lighter fare on our first night. We picked Restaurant Thomas, a Gault-Millau "coup du cour" although a very average "13". It is a tiny restaurant a few blocks southeast of Bellecour with a young chef, minimum staff and a dining room full of enthusiastic neighborhood diners. The food is nouveau bistro, the plates are quite lovely, the flavors and textures on point, and the service stretched to the very limits. Our orders pretty well describe the kind of food offered: pastilla of pintade, rouget entire with tapinade, celery soup with chestnut froth and foie gras die, braised lamb with curried fruit, cervelle de canuts. With aperitifs, wine and coffee, our check was an amazing 93 euros. No wonder the place was packed. They did not try for a second service. Restaurant Thomas

The next night it was pouring rain and also Sunday, so my list of target restaurants was shortened to what was both within easy dash and open. Although we usually avoid tourist neighborhoods like the plague, we decided that Merciere was our best bet, and after reading numerous menus (in the comfort of awnings and terrace heaters) used the tried-and-true method of restaurant selection: the one that was most packed. This was the smallest buchon on the block, Le Saint Joseph. We were still looking for small plates, and were well served here with excellent but reasonably sized portions of Salad Lyonaise, andouillette in excellent mustard/white wine/cream sauce, Hot sausage and lentils, sirloin with Stl Marcelin, Agen prunes in spiced wed wine and again, cervelles de canuts. The only slip in the meal was the cervelles which was too salty. I can't find the case receipt, but with wine and coffee, I would estimate the tab at under 75 euros. In spite of this heavy food, we weren't stuffed.

We booked at Daniel et Denise across the river on Monday. This is one of the Bouchon Association members, but the plates exhibited a slight nod to a more elevated cuisine. A plate of marinated red peppers was subtly dressed, and topped with a perfect poached egg. My husbands moules were the size I prefer: small medium, small enough to be delicate but large enough to be worthwhile messing with. He was served 84 as an appetizer; this is Lyon. I ordered gras double as plate, and was brought a serving for two at least. When I made a rather decent dent on it, the waiter nodded and confirmed, "Tres bien!" I should note that my husband does not share either my curiosity about variety meats nor my enjoyment. He ordered quenelle brochet, another Lyon classic. The quenelle was, I thought, quite boring, but the Nanua sauce was full of large chunks of lobster, and he loved it. With aperitifs, a bottle of water and of Brouilly, coffee, the bill was 79 euros. I love this place.

We spent several hours of our last day reading menus on rues de Neuve and Major Matin, but decided that we were just as well off at our tried-and-true Le Saint Joseph, where quality was adequate and servings were more what we could handle. While I found several of the well-known bouchons tempting, my husband wanted neither offal nor steak, so his choices were limited. We repeated the salad Lyonnaise, I repeated the Andouillette, my husband switched to St. Jacques with fresh pasta. We both chose floating island.

We will make a point of stopping in Lyon again to sample more of its bouchons, but will definitely target the very endearing Daniel et Denise. I should add that in our four evenings in Lyon, we heard no English spoken at any of these restaurants.

Restaurant Thomas

6, rue Laurencin Lyon 02

04.72.56.04.76

Le Saint Joseph

46, rue Merciere Lyon 02

04.78.37.37.25

Daniel et Denise

156, rue Crequi Lyon 03

04.78.60.66.53

[Bux]

The rue Merciere seems touristy, but my guess is that much of the crowd is local and that it serves a local market as much as a tourist market. I had looked forward to a tripe dish in Paris at Aux Lyonnais. One review I read mentione the tablier de sapeur--a breaded square of stomach or tripe, but I had to settle for one of the best pieces of calves' liver I ever had and some foie gras and pork shin. On the whole though, Aux Lyonnais does some justice to its name.

We spent several hours of our last day reading menus on rues ...

I'm sure there are people who would find it excessive for dinner to occupy so much of your day. You're safe here though. We sometimes stay with friends in the Languedoc. When we do, we have breakfast then head out to shop for dinner. Twice a week there are major markets in towns of varying distance. In any case, we may split up in whatever town we're in and meet for coffee late in the morning and return to their house for lunch which is almost always cold prepared things from the market and left overs from the fridge. When lunch is over, we nap, walk, do a bit of laundry and then begin cooking dinner. It's a full life, but other guests of theirs have been know to say "you get up, eat, shop for food, eat again, cook dinner and eat once more" as if there's something wrong with that.

[Busboy]

It's a full life, but other guests of theirs have been know to say "you get up, eat, shop for food, eat again, cook dinner and eat once more" as if there's something wrong with that.

They're probably disturbed that your friends eat before they go to the market. Wht waste time when someone else is getting the best st. Remy cherries or last Cavaillon melons of the season! Also, anything more than a glass of rose and a croissant dulls the senses.

Thanks for the report, Margaret. Though it will be some months, yet, I hope to find myself in Lyon in March and will be glad to have your guidance as I search for the "gastronomic capital of France's" tastiest innards.

Edited October 30, 2003 by Busboy (log)

[DodinBouffant]

I love your version of lighter fare.

I have circled that city(and vieux lyon) for hours and hours and hours looking at menus, writing down addresses and looking them up on the map, I am glad to see I am not the only one doing that.

I have also had excellent food at Mercière on the rue Mercière. Will def try your suggestions next time as it appears my quest for good offal is matched by yours.

[Bux]

It's a full life, but other guests of theirs have been know to say "you get up, eat, shop for food, eat again, cook dinner and eat once more" as if there's something wrong with that.

They're probably disturbed that your friends eat before they go to the market. Wht waste time when someone else is getting the best st. Remy cherries or last Cavaillon melons of the season! Also, anything more than a glass of rose and a croissant dulls the senses.

As there's no shop of any king in our friend's village and the nearest baker makes awful croissants, breafast is usually yesterday's bread--toasted with butter, jam or honey and espresso, cafe au lait or tea. Rushing, is just not something I tend to do when I'm there. the cherries, anyway, come from a tree in the vineyards of a neighbor in the village who allows them to pick.

[Busboy]

As there's no shop of any king in our friend's village and the nearest baker makes awful croissants, breafast is usually yesterday's bread--toasted with butter, jam or honey and espresso, cafe au lait or tea. Rushing, is just not something I tend to do when I'm there. the cherries, anyway, come from a tree in the vineyards of a neighbor in the village who allows them to pick.

I confess, I've been warped by my East Coast lifestyle -- and bitter experience with the markets here in D.C., where good stuff can disappear quickly -- and have had a hard time adjusting to French rhythms, especially in the South. But I'm getting better.

I'm sure a few more weeks in Provence, with a cherry tree or two near by, would convince me that France won't run out of food, even if I do sleep in.

[Bux]

But the Languedoc is no Provence. It is a backwater without the ambition or appeal of Provence. It's also poorly served by chefs and restaurateurs for the good reason that the native don't have much money and spend less. I'm not even sure all of them eat that well either. They don't pick over the markets so quickly and the invading hordes from the north that are buying property seem less interested in the best food than they are in the warm climate and less expensive property. Much of that is a pity, by the way. There's no perfect life.

[menton1]

But the Languedoc is no Provence. It is a backwater without the ambition or appeal of Provence.

Bux, I think you are being unfair. While Languedoc may not be as sexy as Provence, nor have as large a chapter in the tourist guides, it can certainly hold its own for cuisine and charm. It encompasses a large area, from Nimes all the way to the Spanish border, and also includes Carcassonne. I have spent many wonderful days touring in the Languedoc.

Cassoulet started in the Languedoc, as well as Aligot, a great mashed potato dish, Brandade de Nimes, a Cod specialty, Gardiane, a Daube made with Bull's meat, let us not forget the special pastry " croquants de Nimes" as well. Also many Catalan specialties around Perpignan.

Although the Languedoc does not get the ink that Provence gets, in many ways it can be preferable. Less pretentious, less touristy, more genuine, and for me, just as much appeal.

[Bux]

Menton, I just switched my tongue from my left cheek to my right cheek. Notice that I said much, not all, of that is a pity. There always seems to be a god side and a bad side to everything. Provence is far more charming if you don't mind all the tourists. The Languedoc is more relaxed and shorter on tourist destinations. It's also closer to El Bulli, if not full of starred rest

I used to say one couldn't find a bad meal in Lyon, but I've found one. Then again, I have no one to blame but myself even for having the curiosity to see what thirteen dollars would buy in the way of a three course meal, and actually that wasn't so bad. It's a pity no one flys from NY directly to Lyon, but catching the TGV at Charles deGaulle airport in Paris and is rather painless and easy, at least as easy as changing planes and far easier than having to go to Orly to catch a domestic flight.

[PS]

Two good 'uns in Lyon visited last month:

La Meuniere, Rue Neuve: one of the starter options was a sample of ten starters - help yourself from the bowls brought to the table, including lentil salad (I have no idea how they made lentils taste so good!), tete de veau, pied de veau, pied de mouton, herring, musseau in vinegar... and a whole roasted veal kidney for main course. Admittedly, if you're not wanting offal you're probably going to struggle.

The other place a proper locals' bouchon called Chez Paul on Rue Major Martin. This wasn't high-cuisine, but good food done simply and correctly. Again, lots of offal and good value pots of beaujolais. Its popularity with the locals was clear from the number of people having to be turned away. The staff were friendly and helpful both to established customers and barely francophone visitors like us. It made for a very enjoyable meal, which, at something like 60 euros for two, was fine value.

[Bux]

It's been a while since I've had dinner in a bistro where they brought bowls of food like that. A few of those places could restore the good name of all-you-can-eat restaurants. I remember la Regalade in Paris setting down a whole terrine of wonderful country pate as an amuse. You didn't get a plate, but you could help yourself to as thick a slice as you could put on the bread. With some humor and fondness, I recall Mrs. B's first visit to Paris and the time she discovered creme fraiche. She ordered strawberries and cream once for dessert. Alongside her bowl of ripe berries came a bowl with what must have been a liter or two of creme fraiche. From the look in her eyes, I knew she was tempted to push the berrries aside and dig right into the bowl of cream with her spoon. Ah for the simple pleasures of life, amongst which is a whole roasted veal kidney. I haven't had kidneys in a while. I don't even know where I can get them these days in New York and they've been overshadowed in my quest for tripe and andouillette in France.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

You will be well served by any of the members of Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnais. Please note that Daniel et Denise that I wrote about IS a member of this association, although not listed on their site, but that Le Saint Joseph is not. LSJ is appropriately several cuts below those in the association.

[menton1]

Just want to put in a good word for an authentic bouchon in Vieux Lyon, not on most of the bouchon lists. It's Les Lyonnais, 1, rue Tramassac. WE stumbled upon it while shopping in a pottery street fair in that area. Very tough to get in on Saturday, we wound up starting dinner at 10:15. A very bustling, active place full of locals. Memorable for us was the mixed saucisson appetizer, Quenelles, an unusual preparation of cod, and Pork Sausage flavored with pistachio. And the "pot" of wine is a lot of fun, a tradition dating back hundreds of years.

It is possible, however, to get a not-so-good meal in Lyon-- we had stayed on a weekend, and, surprisingly enough, a city the size of Lyon virtually "rolls up" on a Sunday night. 99% of the restaurants are closed! Even the streets are practically deserted at 8PM. We were forced to go to a very unmemorable pizza place where there were only 3 tables going. I suppose the entire population of Lyon eats at home on Sunday nights. A peculiar phenomenon.

[Bux]

I suppose the entire population of Lyon eats at home on Sunday nights.  A peculiar phenomenon.

Either that, or they have a very big lunch. Sunday is a big afternoon dinner day in France, especially in the provinces, and after Paris, it's all provinces, but that comes from a New Yorker. ( The midwest is that part of the US between the Hudson River and the Pacific Ocean. That said in good fun and jest. )

A quick check of Michelin shows a number of restaurants open for Sunday lunch and not dinner, but hardly a sizeable enough number to solidly support my contention.

[menton1]

after Paris, it's all provinces

I suppose that is true--- however, it is tough to think of Lyon, a city of 450,000 people, as provincial. That is the paradox, and that is why we were so surprised.

[bleudauvergne]

This thread has got me thinking about tripes for dinner tonight.

I think cru meant to add to this discussion - btw A hearty welcome to you, cru!