Istanbul - where to stay?

[tony h]

I am being whisked off to Istanbul soon for a weekend – then – oh where should we stay? - any recommendations on accommodation welcome. Thanks

Once settled I’ll come back for food recs. cheers

[pepep]

Last time I was there a year ago I stayed at a Best Western (the Best Western chain in europe, unlike America, offer middle market hotels many of which are 'quaint') which actually looked over at the Blue Mosque (you can't get a better location than that!) and was VERY reasonable and suitably 'quirky'.

Check it out - of course there's some incredible hotels in Istanbul but all at a cost of course.

Incidentally you'll LOVE Istanbul.

[endless autumn]

I went on a school trip to Istanbul a few years back led by a tricky vicar addicted to gentleman's relish. We stayed in the Pera Palace which is a hilarious old place: grandeur as faded as it comes. Each room has a plaque which tells you who has stayed in the room before: I was in King Zog of Albania's room (which was surprisingly small). They had just about removed traces of his residency - I believe he was just about the heaviest smoker in history, regularly consuming over 100 cigarettes a day.

I think the hotel might be part of the Orient express group, but I don't think it is outrageously expensive. It is almost certainly a tourist trap, but I greatly enjoyed being ferried up and down its ancient open-cage lift and eating breakfast in the old ballroom.

[tighe]

When I was in Istanbul a few years ago, I stayed at the Ayasofya Pansiyonlari, consisting of a row of restored wooden houses along the outside wall of Topkapi Palace. The rooms were nice, though not luxurious. Loved the location and the historical significance of the place.

Another restored house that is now a hotel is the nearby Yesil Ev. Had dinner there one night and it looked like it was maybe a bit nicer than the AP.

[pepep]

Interesting points - and I agree with both - the problem with the Pera Palace is it is, as you say, quite a place (Agatha Christie wrote one of her novels there) and worth viting if only for afternoon tea but I think it's quite expensive (although that is relative).

The Ayasofya is also excellent but, again, on the pricey side.

The problem is that Istanbul, in real terms, is split into two areas: the 'old' area with Topkapi. the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazzar etc and the 'center' area with the Pera Palace, Taksim Square etc. Of course it's really easy to go between the two with public transport or you could stay at both!

[claudia]

We stayed at the Pierre Loti, which is somewhat modern, clean, very friendly and well located on the streetcar line, between the Grand Bazaar and the Mosques. The other great thing about that stretch of street were all the little food shops. One specialized in topped flatbreads, another in roasted meats, one weas a steam table of stews and stuffed things, another a gorgeous bakery. Everyone is right, you'll love Istanbul!

[robert brown]

BLH, if you want to score some Iranian caviar, I found a reliable guy in the Spice Market. The eGullet man in Istanbul is vmilor. He's from Istanbul and knows the territory, especially restaurants. PM him if he doesn't chime in.

[tighe]

The Ayasofya is also excellent but, again, on the pricey side.

By Istanbul standards, perhaps, but by the standards of most big cities in Europe, not at all. I felt it to be an excellent value compared to most places I've stayed in other cities.

[ecr]

I love the Empress Zoe in Sulthanahmet, but you must ask specifically for one of the larger rooms (if they are available --- this place is usually full for good reason) bec the small rooms are indeed very very tiny. That said, the decor is lovely, beds are comfortable, breakfast is served in a beautiful series of small dining rooms that lead to a quiet garden (eat there when the weather is good), and their coffee (regular not Turkish) is the best I've had in Turkey --- if that matters to you. And staff is friendly and very helpful.

However --- do all your eating on the other side, or at least out of Sulthanahmet. The best food is away from the tourist areas (and easy enough to get to).

[anil]

I am being whisked off to Istanbul soon for a weekend – then – oh where should we stay? - any recommendations on accommodation welcome. Thanks

Once settled I’ll come back for food recs. cheers

What do you want to spend ? My last three trips I have settled on Hotel Marmara in Taxsim Sq. (an Insider track to comp. ugrades facing Bosphorous ??? I can't give that up can I ?) If you are a bagpacker/pensionnes type then go to Itskal Caddessi (sp?) and negotiate the room rates with the many such places....

[tony h]

BLH, if you want to score some Iranian caviar, I found a reliable guy in the Spice Market. The eGullet man in Istanbul is vmilor. He's from Istanbul and knows the territory, especially restaurants. PM him if he doesn't chime in.

what a fantastic idea - thanks

[tony h]

What do you want to spend ?

We're just a couple of middle aged farts who need a wee bit of comfort. Somewhere in the middle range - but quirky would be more welcome rather than international anonymous

[anil]

We're just a couple of middle aged farts who need a wee bit of comfort. Somewhere in the middle range - but quirky would be more welcome rather than international anonymous

From one middle aged fart to another - Mate How many quids ? eh ? Alone or with an SO ? food and sight-seeing or R&R too ? Itsikalal Caddesi (sp?) has many options for backpackers, students,'ol farts and reformed soccer-nutcases Bargain as hell, never pay retail and don't apologize

Edited October 18, 2003 by anil (log)