We stayed at the Pierre Loti, which is somewhat modern, clean, very friendly and well located on the streetcar line, between the Grand Bazaar and the Mosques. The other great thing about that stretch of street were all the little food shops. One specialized in topped flatbreads, another in roasted meats, one weas a steam table of stews and stuffed things, another a gorgeous bakery. Everyone is right, you'll love Istanbul!