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TDG: Wine Camp: A Wine Without Fear


Fat Guy

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Don't mess with Amarone.

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Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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Excellent discussion as usual Craig, particularly as we will be visiting the area north of Verona in the Springtime.

In drinking various Valpolicellas, one is confronted by the paradox, that despite the volume of spectacular wine deals in the Italian red market, there are also too many inexpensive Italian reds that are not deals at all given their poor quality. Valpolicella seems to often be the latter... a lot of large producers, with unspectacular wines and low prices. Sorry to hear that Amarone has also suffered somewhat.

There are "Amarones" (what they actually are, I'm not sure) on sale here in Oregon for $11. Blech.

Thanks for identifying which producers are creating wines worth noting.

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Amarone ranks right up there on my list of favourite wines. When it comes to Amarone, you basically get what you pay for. I haven't had the opportunity to taste a Dal Forno Romano or Quintarelli, but I have had the 1995 DFR Valpolicella Superiore. Extrapolating that, I can just imaging the quality of an Amarone from this producer.

Here are my notes on the Valpolicella if anyone was interested:

Dark ruby red, fabulous thick legs. Nose of black cherry, earth, dark fruit, violets, white flowers, and parmigiano cheese. Full-bodied, traditional style with cherries and earth. Tasty. 90 points.

As for the rest of the producers, normale bottlings of Tedeschi and Masi are quite good for the price. They're around the $33-34CAD mark in Ontario. Once you start getting into stuff like Allegrini, single-vineyard Masi, etc, the price increases dramatically - $75+ CAD a bottle. The quality is a vast improvement, however.

As a reference point, Dal Forno and Quintarelli go for approximately $450 and $380, respectively.

Does anyone else agree that you shouldn't drink Amarone prior to its sixth birthday, preferably waiting 8-10 years or more for quality bottles?

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Recently we went with insane mad love crazy for the Le Salette, The regular old valpolicella was mind blowing (but how the hell do you sell a wine that normally retails around 10 bucks for 29 bucks) and then the Amarone was just heavenly. My tasting note is WOW!!!!!! It was so powerful I had to pull my lip from my tooth and chew an olive for a moment in order to become functional. The vintages were 2000 for Val and 1999 for Amarone.

over it

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Hello all.

Yes, with time regular Valpo can develop interesting anise and maraschino cherry notes.

Had a Sartori 2001 Valpolicella Superiore yesterday, though not stated on the label it was definitely a ripasso IMHO. How long can a ripasso live comparing with Amarone? I'm thinking to buy well stored 1979 Masi Campofiorin Ripasso, that vintage is considered above average but maybe it's too old. :unsure:

Can someone express a judgement about the wines from two major Verona-based houses Bolla and Pasqua in comparison with smaller local producers?

Thanks,

:biggrin:

Alberto

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Both Pasqua and Bolla produce really innocuous Valpolicella. These wines are based on vines on the flat plain instead of the hills and they squeeze every grape out of them that the can. As a result the wines are thin. Good basic Valpolicella is produced by many at reasonable prices and I cannot think of a good reason for buying these two wines. Bolla does make some good special bottlings of Amarone.

The 79 Masi is probably on the edge and could be tired - although I have never had a Campofiorin that old and it could surprise.

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What a good article. And so topical as it happens for our little wine business down here in Cornwall, UK.

I've been sourcing Amarone for a customer, and settled on Tedeschi's Monte Olmi 1999. Has anyone experience of this wine?

I've tried it, and will try it again soon, having had an, erm, interesting experience first time round.

More anon.

slacker,

Padstow, Cornwall

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What a good article. And so topical as it happens for our little wine business down here in Cornwall, UK.

I've been sourcing Amarone for a customer, and settled on Tedeschi's Monte Olmi 1999. Has anyone experience of this wine?

I've tried it, and will try it again soon, having had an, erm, interesting experience first time round.

More anon.

Tedeschi is an excellent producer and the 99 Monte Olmi is a spectacular wine - dramatic and powerful

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just had the 1998 Allegrini at a wine dinner the other night. It was served with a veal braciola with gorgonzola over mashed potatoes. The wine was simply delicious on its own, but also was a fine accompaniment to the veal. Allegrini and Tomasso Bussola have been consistently my two favorite amarones, although I have yet to taste Campofiorin, dal Forno or Quintarelli.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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  • 1 month later...

Hello all.

:smile:

Very slightly off-topic maybe. Just paired the 1998 Recioto Classico la Sorte, Cantina Valpolicella, with a cheese course, I can't do anything but recommend this kind of marriage.

The cheeses were:

-fresh Canestrello from Tuscany (very very white paste, sheep and cow milk)

-Fagagna from Friuli (cow, medium hard and a little spicy)

-a young-medium Parmigiano Reggiano, very supple

-Pecorino di Fossa Santa Caterina from Marche (sheep, 90 days, still a quite sweet and soft taste)

Fabulous pairing. :raz:

Alberto

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Hello all.

:smile:

Very slightly off-topic maybe. Just paired the 1998 Recioto Classico la Sorte, Cantina Valpolicella, with a cheese course, I can't do anything but recommend this kind of marriage.

The cheeses were:

-fresh Canestrello from Tuscany (very very white paste, sheep and cow milk)

-Fagagna from Friuli (cow, medium hard and a little spicy)

-a young-medium Parmigiano Reggiano, very supple

-Pecorino di Fossa Santa Caterina from Marche (sheep, 90 days, still a quite sweet and soft taste)

Fabulous pairing. :raz:

Alberto

Recioto della Valpolicella matched with great cheese is NEVER off-topic.

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  • 3 months later...

Bumping up this thread, and still slightly off topic................

Had the Quintarelli Recioto Della Valpolicella, 1993 last night. What a mind blower! The color is still exceptional, Sweet candied, almost madiera like nose. Viscous in the mouth with flavors of Caramel, prune, and a hint of chocolate. L o n g......

finish. What an alternative to Port

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My experience with Amarone is all of about 5 bottles, but I did have the opportunity to taste the '78 Quintarelli last month. I would never have guessed it as a 26 year old wine. It was dark purple and loaded with fruit, tannin and a touch of VA floating over the top. Quite the wild ride. Unfortunately it was placed in the tasting after a decidedly flawed bottle of a different style wine which threw my palate off big time. Nevertheless it was a very interesting tasting experience.

Of course it was followed by the '45 Taylor Port which blew everything away, but...

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