More recent tastes

[Florida Jim]

These were tasted at dinners throughout this month.

2002 Giacosa, Roero Arneis:

a light, clean nose gives way to a ripe, lightly citric palate with moderate concentration and nice balance; medium length.

A very versatile wine; anything from aperitif to accompaniment with lighter fare. Ready now but in no danger of fading. Delicious.

2000 J.P. Droin, Vaillons:

typical Chablis nose of cold running stream water, lemon zest and mineral; very clean and focused palate echoes the nose with concentration, intensity and excellent balance; long finish.

Not even a hint of wood (this producer uses some new oak on this cuvee) and as delightful an example of what good 1er Chablis can be about as one could imagine. Probably needs 4-5 years to reach peak but drinks well now.

1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet:

not showing the same degree of smoothness and concentration it did when younger, this wine still delivers a lovely, unmanipulated expression of good Crozes. Seems to be closing-up a bit but it still tastes great. Hold.

1999 Michaud, Brouilly Cuvee Non-Filtre:

cherry-raspberry nose with some slate and clean earth tones; crisp and fruit driven on the palate with a freshness belying its 4 years, some mineral complexity; medium length, cleansing finish. Excellent stuff and clearly of its place. Will cellar short term.

2000 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay:

along the lines of the preceding wine but even more cut and more depth of fruit; the kind of wine you can leave open on the counter for a day or two and be even more impressed with when you come back to it. Superb juice, everytime. Bags of life.

2000 Zenato, Valpolicella Ripassa:

“Amarone light,” my friend says and while that has some truth in it, this has its own personality; fruit sweet, very ripe but not raisened, concentrated, intense and extracted with good persistence. Without the proper food it’s ponderous; with it, it takes on a depth that isn’t there when it’s flying solo. Drinking nicely today and will for many tomorrows.

1991 Sullivan, Merlot:

patience has its virtues; juicy and fresh despite its 12 years of age and substantial sediment, nicely integrated and complex, still well-structured but it doesn’t stick out until the finish where it is just slightly drying. May get better but fine now.

And the taster that can pick this blind as merlot has my utmost respect – very Bordeaux-ish.

Best, Jim