Dem changes

[Florida Jim]

“The essential process of life is change.” – Mr. Spock

Below are notes on several different wines that reminded me of Spock’s comment because, in each instance, they have changed significantly since either release or the last time I tried them. In each case, I have been fortunate to have been able to try these wines several times since release.

1989 Lynch Bages: At release, a dense, opulent wine that was thick on the palate and displayed a chocolate note; pretty tannic, too, but not as drying on the finish as that much tannin usually indicates. Lots of changes between now and then but at present, it shows a green nose and a very racy, focused palate that avoids the vegetal element in the nose but is linear and edgy. It is concentrated, intense and the flavors run deep, but the finish is clipped.

I have read, on other boards, notes that are much more complimentary. Perhaps, this wine has reached that time when it is unpredictable, whether due to storage or the will of Bacchus. I will not open another for several years.

1999 Texier, Brezeme CdR: A wine of controversy at release; some found it overly acidic, some found it focused and bright. These days it has lost some (but not all) of its acidic edge and rounded a bit to show nice ripe fruit but little depth. Concentrated and very intense with a long finish, this wine is at the very beginning of its time.

1998 Clos Riche Blanche, Rouge Cot (old vine Malbec): A massive and tannic beast in its youth, this is the exception to the theme of these notes. Still a massive and tannic brute. Hold.

1999 La Favette CdR: With only local distribution here in the mid-Atlantic states, few will have this in their cellars – good. It has given years of delicious drinking pleasure since its release; ripe and clean with decent complexity and a longer finish than expected for a wine that cost $6. Today, it is losing its fruit (or hiding it) and showing that sort of acid that is almost fizzy in the mouth. Hopefully, it will return to its former glories but I’ll not hold my breath.

1995 Mt. Langi Ghiran, Langi Shiraz: A recent tasting with Matt Cooper and the gang (end of April) showed a beautifully balanced wine with gentle oak that played in the background of lovely, but not overstated fruit. Yesterday, it was an oak bomb that I could not get through – not even after decanting for several hours. I haven’t even a hint as to why such a change.

1999 GrapeLeaf, Pinot Noir Sonoma County: On release, this was thin (almost watery) and more like Kool-aid than wine. Last night it was distinctly pinot in character with excellent ripe cherry fruit, more flesh and “stuff” going on, lovely balance and no signs of the over-manipulation/ripeness/oaking I often get with CA pinot. Very clean, varietally correct and, without question, one of the best $22 (including delivery) bottles of pinot I have had.

And so it goes . . .

Best, Jim