Northern Italian Varietals

[davidbdesilva]

Inspired by the latest book I've been reading (Vino Italiano, Regional Italian Wines by Joseph Bastianich), I had the opportunity over Easter to try some Northern Italian wines from the regions of Trentino and Friuli (regions I've not explored as much as those below) and was blown away. The wine I was most impressed with was a 1997 Trentino Cabernet Sauvignon by Ca' Montini. Not a hint of oak, medium bodied, intense fruit and very smooth. At $15 it is quite a bargain as this is better than most if not all of the Cab's I've had from California. A very different style and refreshing break from Cal. Cab's.

I also had a 1999 Conti Brandolini d' Adda Vestorta Merlot ($14) from Fruili. Surprisingly this was quite tannic (perhaps it needed a bit more rest time) but it was bright, intense and again, quite different from it's Californian siblings. Finally, I had a lovely 1997 Volpe Pasini Zuc di Volpe Tocai Fruilano ($17). This white was actually the most full-bodied of the lot and was creamy and toasty with a hint of oak and oh so good. These wines reveal what the Italians are capable of, that the Fruili region is putting out some of the best wines around (e.g. Jermann), and that I am quickly forgetting about Californian wines.

[mogsob]

Don't limit yourself to Northern Italy. Sicily is making some unbelievably good wines these days, both with local varietals and with internationals such as cabernet.

[Craig Camp]

The Vino Italiano book is an excellent introduction to Italian wine. Many are surprised when they discover the delicious red wines of Friuli, Trentino and Alto Adige as these regions are thought of as white wine regions in export markets.

As good as Trentino cabernet can be I would suggest trying a teroldego and from Alto Adige a lagrein. In Friuli look for refosco and schioppettino. All of these varietals have the penitential to produce rich complex reds in the hands of a dedicated winemaker. If money is no object try a rare pignolo.

I will second and third mogsob's recommendation to look south. Try nero d'avola from Sicilia, negroamaro from Puglia and aglianico from Campania. All have great potential.

[mogsob]

I once came across a fantastic wine list for Italy. Here it is:

The Pantheon of Italian Wines

Duca Enrico from Duca di Salaparuta

Montepulciano d' Abruzzo of Valentini

Tignanello of Antinori

Monte Vertine Riserva

Vigneto Rancia of Felsina

Vigneto Mazzano Amarone of Masi

Granato of Foradori

Barolo Gran Bussia of Aldo Conterno

Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva of Bruno Giacosa

Barolo Bric del Fiasc of Paolo Scavino

Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo of Angelo Gaja

Castello di Ama Bellavista

Barolo Sperss of Gaja

Brunello Montosoli of Altesino

Brunello Pianrosso of Ciacchi

Brunello of Costanti

Barolo Brunate Riserva of Giuseppe Rinaldi

Barolo Cannubi Boschis of Sandrone

Barolo Cascina Francia of Giacomo Conterno

Barbaresco Bricco Asili of Ceretto

Gravello of Librandi

Terre Brune of Santadi

Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio of Lungarotti

[davidbdesilva]

I am very happy that Southern Italy, Sicily (my heritage) and Sardinia are now making many excellent wines. That is what I have predominatly been drinking (along with Tuscany of course). I love the wines that have been mentioned, Aglianico del Vulture, Salice Salentino, Brindisi, Taurasi, Sangrinito and the like, in the right winemakers hands, IMHO, are awesome wines. I have a 1996 Terre Brune at home that I'd like to sample sometime soon. As a result of my love of Southern Italian wines, I have neglected to explore the far North of Italy. Thanks Craig for all your suggestions and expertise on Italian wines.

[Craig Camp]

I am very happy that Southern Italy, Sicily (my heritage) and Sardinia are now making many excellent wines. That is what I have predominatly been drinking (along with Tuscany of course). I love the wines that have been mentioned, Aglianico del Vulture, Salice Salentino, Brindisi, Taurasi, Sangrinito and the like, in the right winemakers hands, IMHO, are awesome wines. I have a 1996 Terre Brune at home that I'd like to sample sometime soon.  As a result of my love of Southern Italian wines, I have neglected to explore the far North of Italy. Thanks Craig for all your suggestions and expertise on Italian wines.

That Terre Brune is fantastic. They used to use those wines to 'improve' Tuscan wines. I bet they 'improved' them a lot!

["T"]

Craig:

What are the better wines available in NA from Campania? I was fortunate enough to spend a week on the coast near Positano and some of the local wines we had in restaurants and what was given to us by locals were wonderful. Although it may also have been the Sea, food, sun, hospitality and the fact that I wasn't spending another day in the Vancouver rain.

When I asked for wines I meant specific producers and or labels.

Edited April 23, 2003 by "T" (log)

[Craig Camp]

Craig:

What are the better wines available in NA from Campania? I was fortunate enough to spend a week on the coast near Positano and some of the local wines we had in restaurants and what was given to us by locals were wonderful. Although it may also have been the Sea, food, sun, hospitality and the fact that I wasn't spending another day in the Vancouver rain.

When I asked for wines I meant specific producers and or labels.

Mastroberadino is around but the wines just are not what they used to be. Taurasi Radici is their best wine.

Cantina del Taburna makes some dramatic if sometimes expensive wines. Bue Apis is at the top of their portfolio but the Coda di Volpe is less expensive and delicious. The Bue Apis is aglianico at its most concentrated. Their Aglianico del Taburno is a good example of the grape at a lower price.

The hyper-collectible Montevetrano is around if you want to drop over $100 a bottle. A blend of cabernet, merlot and aglianico is a dramatic wine worth drinking anytime you can get someone else to pick up the tab.

Fuedo di San Gregorio is widely available and makes wine in a very modern style. I prefer these to Mastroberadino. They also do a good job with their whites - Fiano and Greco. For reds everyone seems to love the powerful Serpico and Patrimo but they are over the top for me and also very expensive. Look for their Taurasi.

For a nice older style wine look for the Lacryma Cristi del Vesuvio Rosso by de Angelis which is imported by Marc de Grazia and is under $15.00.

Villa Matilde makes an excellent aglianico called Vigna Camarato.

Salvatore Molettieri makes an excellent Taurasi, Vigna Cinque Querce - imported by Vin Divino.

I like very much the wines of Ag. Az. Paternoster who makes outstanding aglianico - both Riserva Don Anselmo and Vigneto Villa Rotondo are great wines.

["T"]

Thanks for the advice, time to do a bit of research in the local wine shops.