Last lunch in Vilnius was at this legendary Soviet-era canteen (far from the centre but we enjoyed the walk and photo ops). Had a hard time finding it but we did, eventually, with help from a pensioner in his flat on the first floor. He saw us in the little mirror and poked his head out the window asking what we were trying to find. We looked up the Lithuanian word for "canteen" and told him. He pointed enthusiastically in the direction we had just come from (but we couldn't find the canteen there, obviously). He kept pointing at the other direction said "go back that way, it's right there" so vehemently that we had to try again to find it.
We had been inside this building twice, also round the back twice. But it's where the canteen is located. Looks like a school or government building (complete with 70's/80's font).
Round the back. Only now we had realised this was the way to the canteen because... "valgykla" means canteen (*slap forehead*).
Also saw this twice. A long, dark corridor. The door was closed both times.
There was already a small queue. As we moved closer to the counter I asked someone in the queue what the dishes were on a printed sheet (they serve different typical Lithuanian dishes every day). The boss at the counter called someone from the kitchen to help me with the ordering.
We were lucky a table for 2 had just become available. The place is small and plain, (office) workers and students, also people who live nearby come for lunch (the only time the canteen is open) so you eat and leave when you are done, bring your plates and cutlery to the little hatch door on the way out. Nobody cleans the table (I used napkins) and remember someone is waiting for your table so get going as soon as you are done eating.
Beetroot soup, one is cold and one is hot.
Zeppelins (potato dumplings filled with minced pork).
Cabbage rolls
A kind of fried dough. Not too sweet, nice and airy.
I ordered the meal by pointing randomly at the menu. Everything tasted better than all other places I ate the whole week. And it was ridiculously cheap! Kind staff, also. A good local experience. The place was packed as soon as we sat down at our table. When we left the queue was half way down the corridor. They serve the same food like back in the Soviet days and the quality remains the same, plus the prices are still affordable that's why it's packed every day.
The rest of the last day we did more walking and beer drinking. When I was making this photo an employee approached me and gave me a card with name of the teahouse "can you tag us?". I took the card and said sure. (I am not on "socials", not a part of any of this platform.)
Furniture abstract. It's not a B&W photo.
We went to a favourite pub several times, this swing was on the same street. Popular with the local teenagers.
Many more beers at this nice local pub
The regulars let us try this insane-proof spirit. Even they could barely drink it. We each had a tiny sip.
Later, here at home...
Artisanal black bread. Hand-made loaves, weighing about 3 kilos each.
And smaller loaves from a different shop. I portioned the big loaves and put them in the freezer. Have gone through half the bread so far.
I bought the same charcuterie at different market stalls, this is some of it. The Speck here looks very lean. They are not usually this lean.
Smoked pig's ears (in strips for easy snacking) and more Speck on the left.
Air-dried sausages
Beef jerky (plus more beef jerky in vac pack underneath)
Pork jerky
All the charcuterie is good and of high quality. Unfortunately, the Latvian smoked sprats didn't pass Lithuanian customs clearance. They confiscated all the tins. We paid for extra cabin bags to bring all this home. Next time 1 bag would go in the hold. No other way to bring honey and tinned fish back. We were still eating Lithuanian tomatoes and fruits for a couple of weeks later.
The capital left a good impression on us. Next time we would like to visit smaller towns and the coast for more amazing black bread, beer and whatever else I'm sure we'd enjoy.
Thanks for your patience. This was my impression of the Lithuanian capital and I hope to return and visit other places in the country some day, for the black bread and beer alone is already enough.
