South African Wines

[bills]

Cape blends – Pinotage or not to Pinotage?

The wine industry in South Africa is absolutely free to make wine from whatever and wherever they want – that may be unique in the world, with all of the AOC, DOC and such regulation.

There is an ongoing discussion about something they call ‘Cape blends’, but rather typically, the South Africans can’t agree on just what a Cape blend is. Half of them insist that it must include Pinotage as a principal component and the other half say they will put in anything they please. These notes are from a seminar aimed at surveying this issue, tasting both sorts of wines.

2001 Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon – I have been buying this wine since the first vintage of 1993, so I am a long time fan. It is a wine made with the advice of the ubiquitous M. Pontalier, in this vintage consisting of 85% cab sauv, 5% merlot, 5% malbec and 5% petit verdot, getting 16 months in French oak. Excellent and very Bordeau-like penetrating nose of cassis, cabernet fruit and vanilla, very harmonious on palate, with slightly high acidity which will carry the wine as it ages. Decent amount of tannin, medium soft. The 1993 and 1994 continue to drink well, and I would place this in the same sort of maturation timeframe – 10 – 12 years being a nice plateau.

2001 Winery of Good Hope Radford Dale Merlot – presented by the personable (and amusing) owner, Alex Dale, who admitted that he made this wine because he didn’t know much about merlot and wanted to give it a try. I suspect that the fact that he is, if not totally alone, one of a very few who currently work with this varietal in South Africa may have had something to do with it. Hint of cocoa in the nose, smooth and full in the mouth with lots of power. For someone who doe4sn’t know what he is doing, he has produced a pretty darned good wine!

1999 Meerlust Rubicon – Hannes Myburgh, the owner, mentioned that he thought there might be another wine of this name made by some minor movie personality. This Bordeaux blend was the oldest wine presented to this seminar and it offered a sweet Bordeaux nose, some up front tannins, but the fruit seemed adequate and the wine needs more time. They do not make this reserve wine every year – there will be no 2002, for instance.

2001 Rust en Vrede Estate Wine – Another perennial favourite of mine, this blend is 35% shiraz, 55% cab, and 10% merlot. You had to work a bit to get much nose out of this at this point, but there was excellent depth of fruit in the mouth, and lots of tannin. A big framed wine that requires time. I am currently drinking the 1994, and Oliver Bauer, the marketing director, slipped me some 1991 to taste – very good. They do a particularly labour intensive form of vinification. They have 6 clones of cab, 6 clones of shiraz and 2 of merlot, and they vinify them all separately, blending only when achieving the final product. This sort of micro-vinification seems to pay off for them, judging by the results.

2001 Fairview Primo Pinotage – from Bordeaux blends to pure Pinotage. After giving us a pep talk on their goats and the cheese made from their milk, Chris Davis, export manager indicated that this wine included 14% shiraz. It had a simple fruit nose, and was a sweet forward wine with a bit of tightening at the end, the fruit ultimately not quite bright enough to please me. I am not in any case a big fan of Pinotage.

2002 Villiera Cellar Door Merlot/Pinotage – 800 cases of this made. Red fruit and wood predominate, sweet and smooth on palate, better than the Fairview, but then there is less Pinotage! Cathy Brewer the export manager stated that if they use any more than 30% Pinotage it overwhelms the merlot.

2002 Stellenzicht Rhapsody – a blend of 47% shiraz and 53% pinotage. Tobacco noise. soft tannins, pleasant enough but in no way outstanding. This was the first vintage of this wine.

2002 Beyerskloof Synergy – I liked this quite a bit. 38% pinotage, 34% cab, 28% merlot. Spicy nose, big wine with lots of extract, a touch warm, has time to go, and certainly the best blend of the day.

2001 Graham Beck ‘The William’- 35% pinotage, 65% cab, from Francshoek. Ripe Aussie style nose withplums. Quite firm, but the sweet fruit lurks underneath and will come out in a few more years.

2001 Warwick Estate Three Cape Ladies – 41% cab, 29% merlot, 30% pinotage. Generic Bordeaux nose, sweet up front fruit, good length, switches over to tannin quickly. Pretty tasty, and could use a bit of time.

[docsconz]

Thanks for the notes. I can't say that I am a big fan of pinotage either, but then I haven't had many. One thing I do like about the grape, however, is that it is distinctive. That alone sets it apart and gives it some value in this day and age of viniferous homogenization.

[CtznCane]

I've only had one Pinotage and I liked it immensely, that Pinotage being from J. Vineyards & Winery. So I have not yet had the chance to try South African Pinotages but I would like to in the near future.

Should it be included in wine labeled "Cape Blend?" I would certainly think so. While it need not be the primary grape, it seems that the including of Pinotage in a "Cape Blend' would give the wine more identity and put more of a focus on the region than a blend not containing it would do.

With the aloofness shown by many with reference to terms such as Chablis, Champagne, Burgundy, & even Bordeaux Blend and when they can be used and why they shouldn't be used (much of which I disagree with) the inclusion of Pinotage would certainly waylay those who would want to thumb their noses treating it as just another copy.

[Rebel Rose]

Ladies and gentlemen, I am pleased to announce that Philip van Zyl, editor of the John Platter South African Wine Guide has agreed to join us for a Wine Forum chat the week of May 23-27, 2005.

So let's grab a Guide and a machete and prepare to do some research!

Later this year, John and Erica Platter will also join us to discuss their book, Africa Uncorked: Travels in Extreme Wine Territory.

[primowino]

There hasn't been much mention of Hamilton Russell, but if you like burgundy they are the obvious choice. They only produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and both are excellent. I don't know how easy they are to get in the US, in the UK they are fairly common but quite expensive.

Adam Balic (the RSA-phobe) mentioned Buitenhoutkloof's Semillon from their Seven Chairs range. This is very good, but the Syrah from the same range, which I haven't had is supposedly spectacular.

If your wife likes dry whites, I always found Boschendal to be the most reliable white producer when I lived there, albeit that was in the 1980s.

[Freckles]

A dear friend is leaving Paris *sniff*, being moved to Jo-burg.

She is interested in trying wines from South Africa and will, of course, learn plenty once she moves. She's taking an initial trip this week to get the "lay of the land;" please, what are a few really good, mid-priced South African wines she can gulp to whet her whistle and give her a preview of coming attractions? Some wines that are good value and "typically south African?"

Many thanks.

Freckles

[cathrynapple]

Soet Hannepoot. there is no better, IMHO. if you can find those grapes and just stuff your face with them, its' also orgasmic. this wine is so good.

i grew up in S.A. and my uncle has a vineyard. he'd feed me those hannepoot grapes when i was little.

[mccorry]

She must try the Hamilton Russell Chardonnay. I wouldn't call it budget but it's one of my favorites (and a lot of people's favorite judging by how difficult it is to get hold of!)

[Rebel Rose]

She should definitely get her hands on John Platter's South African Wine Guide. Editor Philip van Zyl will be visiting the wine forum soon--I am trying to reschedule his appearance for June. Philip is very personable and will be happy to answer any and all questions about South African wines.

She will also enjoy Africa Uncorked: Travels in Extreme Wine Territory by John and Erica Platter. It's informative, interesting and hilarious.

The Platters will be joining us for a week long Conversation in September.

[nanuq]

Another ex-South African here. The Platter guide is essential. There are loads of wines in SA that do not make it to export, so, find a good wine store, and ask them for advice. The Platter guide does list selected wine shops. Many of the wines are also very reasonably prices, so experimenting is fun.

Woolworths, which is one of the stores I wish I could shop at regularly, sells some very decent wine. I was very surprised to find Neil Ellis Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc in a tetra-pak container at Woolies.

I look forward to the van Zyl's eGullet appearance, that's excellent news.

[malcolmjolley]

From what very little I know, Platter is the bible.

South Africa is certainly one of the most exciting wine regions right now. The investments that were made post-1994 are literally coming to fruition.

I am sure your friend will drink well.

Edit...

Didn't address wines to try now. Any of the Fairview / Goats do Roam labels are great value (though given their troubles with the EU over their name, maybe not available in the 5th Republic).

If you can find (or for that matter, pronounce) the Boekenhoutskloof "Porcupine Ridge", I think you'll get a sense of the great values that are coming out of South Africa.

The Wines of South Africa is a decent online resource, too.

(Shameless self-promotion: Gremolata did a profile on the Porcupine Ridge earlier this year, here.)

Edited June 3, 2005 by malcolmjolley (log)

[afn33282]

If you can find (or for that matter, pronounce) the Boekenhoutskloof "Porcupine Ridge", I think you'll get a sense of the great values that are coming out of South Africa.

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bo-ken-hoots'-kloof

A rep from the winery set our wine shop straight on that one.

["T"]

For reds I like De Torens Fusion V as well as Springfields Whole Berry Cabernet.

For whites Springfields Life From Stone Sav/ Blanc is one of the finest example of this grape from the "New World".

Chenin Blanc or Steen (I think that's what they call it in SA) can be very nice from SA as well.

Cheers, Steve

[jparrott]

Pretty much only KWV uses Steen any more. The use of "Chenin Blanc" corresponds with a rise in the understanding that it can make serious wines in SA.

[Brad Ballinger]

Your friend should be sure not to miss the late harvest wines. Spiers is a decent producer, but there will be plenty to choose from.

[Gaucho]

Another vote for Platter here. The guide is excellent, I always pick up the new edition when I visit South Africa. On a side note, two of my favorite reds from SA are the Rubicon and the Meerlust Merlot. I must admit that I have to still develop a craze for Pinotage, though.

[jparrott]

I'm telling you, Merlot is a significant part of the future of SA wine. The best SA merlots (full disclosure: I import a couple) are intensely mineral and expressive, but still have plenty of fruit and spice.

[KatieLoeb]

Robertson Winery is one of my favorite producers. Their Chenin Blanc is brilliant and the reds are quite lovely and complex as well. Reasonably priced, with a full line of varietals and fairly well distributed, it's a good spot to start seeing what one likes of SA wines.

Stellenbosch Vineyards also produces some very fine wines. There are numerous labels and price points under their umbrella.

[Lori_Russo]

Your friend should be sure not to miss the late harvest wines.  Spiers is a decent producer, but there will be plenty to choose from.

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Brad -- I had a bottle of Spiers Chardonnay last night and was really surprised. Lots of melon and citrus and zero oak. Great for a summer evening. I really also like the 2004 Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc. At around $9, it's worth buying by the case!

[bills]

Notes from a blind tasting lunch with a couple more throw in at the end.

Anna de Codorniu Reserva Brut – nice Cava with good mousse and nice crisp finish.

2004 Dom. de Mirail Blanc sec Colombard – don’t see much decent Colombard (some would say that was a contradiction in terms). This one, just back from France with its purveyor was very pale and had a sort of ‘home made’ element in the nose that I finally realised was typical French Colombard – lots of apple and some anise. Good entry, some mineral, finishing dry. Would sell for around $11 C.

2002 Dom. Bachelet Bourgogne Blanc – another sample (the guy who brought them is an agent gauging possible sales prospects). Waxy nose with citrus at end, not much in the middle, but decent length. I’d pass on this – lots of decent French chards available.

2003 Dom. Bachelet Maranges Prem Cru La Fussiere – OK- hands up those who have tasted a Burgundy from Maranges – or even knew there was such an appellation IN the Cote de Beaune! Not exactly a household word, even among Burgaholics. Young bright wine, with lots of tannin and acidity, very dry at end. I’d reserve judgement until I could taste it again in about 3 years.

1999 Alabastro Reserva – from Portugal (the venue was a Portuguese restaurant). Michel Roland strikes again! A blend of Araganez (a local name for Tempranillo), Trincadeira and cabernet. Slightly soapy berry nose the wine bright and acidic with a fair bit of tannin. Chopped off short in the finish, otherwise quite pleasant.

1993 Conde de Valdemar Rioja Gran Reserva (Martinez Bujanda) – American oak in the nose and an initial strong whiff of dill that abated with air. Smooth entry, with wood present on palate as well! Finished with – you guessed it – more oak. Did Mondavi loan his winemaker out to Spain? (actually this was typical of old style Rioja).

1994 Chivite Gran Reserva Collecion 125 – the 1995 was a Rhone ringer but this wine from Navarra showed wet stones and fruit in the nose, good colour, and spice at the end. It was another ‘woody’ in terms of oak content, as well., being held 24 months in French oak. 100% Tempranillo.

These wines went down just fine with roasted saddle of rabbit.

1997 Finca Valpiedra Rioja Reserva – a switch to new style Spanish with this one. Also owned by Martinez Bujanda, they add 5% cab and use some American oak. This wine had a sweet oak nose, was open and sweet in the mouth, soft, forward and with good balance. I’m sure it will keep, but it drinks nicely now.

1997 Pesquera Crianza – stinky nose, and a big, slightly hot rustic wine which seems a marked departure from the style of the rather good 1994, 95 and 96 vintages. Needs some time.

1999 Quinta do Crasto Tinta Cao – Crasto does single varietal wines as reserves – the Tinta Cao, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo). 1997 and 1999 were particularly good and we wondered if this one would be ready, so I was pleased when its identity was revealed. A vinyl and vanilla nose (the use some American oak in this although I believe the Nacional is all French), lots of dark sweet fruit on the palate, a big wine with a tannic end, it needs more time. I think I’ll give mine at least 3 more years.

1989 Dow Quinto do Bomfim Port – an off year for many, but this single quinta wine made from grapes from the vineyards that produce the core of Dow’s wines in regular vintage years was very presentable. The nose was ripe and a bit raisiny, and it was all fruitcake in the mouth. Nice finish to a largely Iberian event.

I’ll append last night’s wines as well:

1994 Plaisir de Merle – I’ve had 3 of these in the last week and a bit and this one was the biggest with a dark smoky nose, good depth and showing significant tannin.

1994 Stellenzicht Estate Wine – I’d opened the previous wine to accompany this one that a guest had brought. This wine is made in Stellenbosch from the 4 Bordeaux varietals (cab, cab franc, merlot and Malbec, in varying amounts depending on vintage). The nose was all Bordeaux, a hint of steminess and refined fruit, and in the mouth it was a ringer for a middling Bordeaux of a decent vintage. Very nice and a great choice for a ringer if you ever do blind tastings!

[Brad Ballinger]

1997 Finca Valpiedra Rioja Reserva – a switch to new style Spanish with this one.  Also owned by Martinez Bujanda, they add 5% cab and use some American oak. This wine had a sweet oak nose, was open and sweet in the mouth, soft, forward and with good balance. I’m sure it will keep, but it drinks nicely now.

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I'm fairly certain Valpiedra uses all French oak (now and perhaps in 1997), which is a departure from most Rioja producers who use American oak. It's new French oak, and aging in barrel is usually less than 1.5 years. This has been a producer I've liked, but I haven't had the wine in some time.

[Jmahl]

Last night tried a bottle of Stark Shiraz 2002 - from Stark-Conde - Stellenbosh SA. See link with interview with winemaker Jose Conde.

ewine

If you see a bottle of Stark - get it, you won't be disappointed. As an aside, according to the link Jose is an American who took up winemaking with no formal education or prior winemaking experiance.

So there is hope for the rest of us.

Happy Holidays

Jmahl