[CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 2)

[ronnie_suburban]

Drumroll, please . . .

Here's the 'official' Alinea Anniversary Menu:

This was culled from 153 total dishes; a busy first year.

Do you see any of your favorites?

=R=

[yellow truffle]

IDIAZABAL, I thought for sure you have been one of the lucky ones.

I'm excited that they are using the first generation of the DUNGENESS CRAB recipe. Oh how I miss you, dCrab.

Hmm, no palate cleansing intermezzo, such as the BURDOCK, BURNT ORANGE, CHEWY BALSAMIC, FINGER LIMES, KUMQUAT, QUINCE, YUZU.

The ASPARAGUS and KOBE BEEF, sound exciting, as I have not yet tried this.

I wonder which variation of the HEART OF PALM will be presented.

Hmm, only one fish and one crustacean (not counting the roe in the SALSIFY or LITCHI).

Only 22 dishes... Can I supersize some of these?

And the wines? I vote for the N. Joly Savennières (chenin blanc), Ferrandes (zibbibo), Carlin Champagne with Quady Vya Vermouth (cocktail), Gros Frère & Soeur (pinot noir).

[ulterior epicure]

1. I was almost sure that the Beef Steak Cap "A1" would make a showing...

2. The Litchi and Bison were memorable.

3. From the Hearts of Palm, I would be happy with just the "Pumpernickle with Black Truffle and Coffee Sauce"

4. Re: Kobe. I've not had the preparation/version listed on the Anniversary menu, but the Kobe from my last "Tour" was one of the best dishes I had that evening.

Congrats to ChefG and his staff for a remarkable first year. Will be excited to hear about the direction you take in the years to come!

u.e.

Edited April 22, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[Elrushbo]

Is it just me, or does Alinea bear some resemblance to CTU Headquarters on the show "24?"

Edited April 25, 2006 by Elrushbo (log)

[Elrushbo]

Drumroll, please . . .

Here's the 'official' Alinea Anniversary Menu:

This was culled from 153 total dishes; a busy first year.

Do you see any of your favorites?

=R=

←

Suprised they didn't do the Creme Brulee

[rhinopias]

This menu shows 22 courses, the anniversary dinner was originally 17. Any idea as to why/when it was changed? Not that I'm complaining!

Nine days seems so far away.........................

[nick.kokonas]

We had anticipated that the menu would be around 17-18 courses, but had not yet decided on the exact dishes. Patrons would call to ask about the menu, and we guessed it would be around 17.

Chef went through the list of all of the unique dishes produced throughout the year and came up with about 25 - 28 that were the favorites based on various criteria -- some were just popular with diners, some highlighted a new technique etc. Then he solicited input from chefs, servers, me, etc. There are some obvious highlights that cannot be included for seasonal reasons -- for example, the pheasant with burning oak leaves, one of my personal favorites. The white truffle explosion should be on there, but white truffles are not in season.

Then he and chefs duffy, stupak, and peters worked on composing the menu... it has to flow like a regular menu -- and so that excluded some dishes while making a few others necessary.

At the end of the day, it is a subjective exercise that should be, above all, fun.

[ulterior epicure]

nick, or anyone else that may know:

I have a question about one of the courses I had a while back. It was the "Peanut" course: I was told that there was a 1971 Pedro Ximenes inside the frozen peanut puree. Can you tell me who made the P.X. and what label it was?

Thanks!

u.e.

[nick.kokonas]

Don PX 1971 Gran Reserva, Bodegas Toro Albala, S.L.

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks Nick.

If you will indulge me once again, is that one the sweeter end or drier end of the P.X. sherries?

u.e.

[nick.kokonas]

there is a good overview of the wine here

[ulterior epicure]

Perfect. Thanks Nick! Best of luck with your anniversary dinner! I will be in Chicago for one night during your celebration, but alas, do not have time to join in the celebration! Congrats to you, ChefG and the rest of the staff.

u.e.

[ASM NY]

There is an interesting article about Alinea in WIRED magazine's May issue. Focuses more than anything on the technique and presentation of the food. Keeping in mind that it is a technology-focused magazine, I didn't think that it wasn't much in depth from that perspective.

There was some interesting mention on Chef Achatz's plans on making it the best restaurant in the U.S. (and doing it "his way"), as well as some comments by the Chef on how the focus of his cuisine is on flavor whereas from his experience working at elBulli was that food there focuses more on evoking emotion in the diner, not so much a focus on the taste.

I have not yet eaten at Alinea, but I am very curious about how the flavor of the food compares with elBulli if anyone has had any experience eating at both places.

It is a very interesting article no less, just adds some anticipation to my visiting these guys one of these days.

The article will be available online on May 3, magazine is already in newsstands.

[docsconz]

There is an interesting article about Alinea in WIRED magazine's May issue.  Focuses more than anything on the technique and presentation of the food. Keeping in mind that it is a technology-focused magazine, I didn't think that it wasn't much in depth from that perspective.

There was some interesting mention on Chef Achatz's plans on making it the best restaurant in the U.S. (and doing it "his way"), as well as some comments by the Chef on how the focus of his cuisine is on flavor whereas from his experience working at elBulli was that food there focuses more on evoking emotion in the diner, not so much a focus on the taste.

I have not yet eaten at Alinea, but I am very curious about how the flavor of the food compares with elBulli if anyone has had any experience eating at both places.

It is a very interesting article no less, just adds some anticipation to my visiting these guys one of these days.

The article will be available online on May 3, magazine is already in newsstands.

←

These are currently my two favorite restaurants in the world. I don't agree that Adria is not concerned with flavor. I thought the flavors there were well developed, clear and delicious. They tend to have a more European focus in that the underlying ingredients are generally European (e.g. spherical olives or mozzarella, espardenas, salicornias, etc.) although more exotic (to them) ingredients are often used as well. The dishes certainly do evoke emotion. I feel the same way about Alinea though. The restaurants are very similar in a number of ways even though they are not in the least bit clones. El Bulli offers a European country charm with a fabulous seaside setting. Alinea offers American urban sophistication. While both exult in the creativity of their cuisine, they also both have fun with it and expect their patrons to as well. I don't find either restaurant to be pretentious or precious. They don't have to be.

[ASM NY]

Thx Doc. Planning on making a trip to Alinea at some point this year, and hopefully form my own opinion by then. I did find some elBulli dishes to be focused more on texture and an element of "surprise"; and while I don't like some elBulli dishes, I think that flavor tends to be very pure and consistent.

[gaya]

Is Chef Grant planning on serving anniversary menu for the whole month of May?

[nick.kokonas]

The anniversary menu will be available the week of May 3rd only. We will return to our regular Spring menu on May 10th.

[gaya]

With the recent news about foie gras. I am curious about what Chef Achatz/ any chef in Chicago has to say about this? Do you all think that the ban is a culinary disaster for Chicago?

[docsconz]

With the recent news about foie gras.  I am curious about what Chef Achatz/ any chef in Chicago has to say about this? Do you all think that the ban is a culinary disaster for Chicago?

←

Perhaps you meant your question for Chef Achatz or chefs in particular, but as a fan of the Chicago dining scene, I think disaster is way too strong a word. It is disappointing, shortsighted, hypocritical and frustrating, but Chef Achatz and others are simply too good and have too great an arsenal at their disposal to be anything even remotely resembling a disaster. As much as I love foie gras, I will not avoid Chicago and penalize either myself or the restaurants I wish to patronize because of this folly.

[nick.kokonas]

I think that Doc has it right.

We are not pleased about the ban, and consider it ill-informed at best, but it is not a disaster -- not for Alinea or for the Chicago food scene as a whole. There are just too many good restaurants and dishes being served to avoid the city because of Foie.

Alinea has generally not served Foie Gras in a "straight" preparation, except as an occasional surprise to various guests (the whole lobe has occasionally been prepared and it is a thing of true beauty!). Instead, it is usually used in creative ways -- "pushed" foie, foie cylinder with rhubarb, etc.

Ultimately, creative solutions will be found to create a similar experience through other means.

[ulterior epicure]

Ultimately, creative solutions will be found to create a similar experience through other means.

Cheers to that! With ChefG, I wouldn't expect anything less!

Edited May 2, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

Here is a link to the piece at Wired.com about chefg and Alinea:

My Compliments to the Lab by Mark McClusky . . .

Five years ago, when Achatz was the chef at Trio in Evanston, Illinois, he started to wonder why innovation in ingredients and recipes hadn't been accompanied by changes in hardware. He started looking for a like-minded industrial designer. Of 30 people Achatz emailed, only Martin Kastner responded. Born in the Czech Republic, Kastner now has a studio in a former livery stable a few miles west of Alinea.

=R=

[Elrushbo]

Jeffj,

PLEEEEASE tell us you took pictures!   

I did take some pictures but the lighting at my table seemed much more dim than what Yellow Truffle had so his outstanding pictures will probably be the definitive set for now. When I get back home, I'll see what I can salvage and include them with a more thorough description of the meal.

In the meantime, I can tell you that all of you with reservations are in for a real treat. Alinea is a very special restaurant.

←

In your Moto photos(May 7) from that link, I have one question: what is that glowing blue stuff on that one plate?

[ulterior epicure]

...I have one question: what is that glowing blue stuff on that one plate?

... You know you're talking about Alinea when...

[docsconz]

Today is Alinea's first birthday. Happy birthday to Alinea! Congratulations to ChefG, Nick and the staff! I wish I could be there to participate in the birthday celebrations.