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Lack of excitement in NYC restaurant scene


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There was a long thread recently on what several posters saw as a certain tiredness and lack of innovation in the current NYC restaurant scene. There just doesn’t seem to be a new Vongerichten or Bouley appearing, certainly no New York Adria.

Do you sense the same lack of excitement? Do you think that the enormous cost of operating a restaurant in NYC discourages investors from backing radically innovative chefs?

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There was a long thread recently on what several posters saw as a certain tiredness and lack of innovation in the current NYC restaurant scene. There just doesn’t seem to be a new Vongerichten or Bouley appearing, certainly no New York Adria.

Do you sense the same lack of excitement? Do you think that the enormous cost of operating a restaurant in NYC discourages investors from backing radically innovative chefs?

First of all we'd have to talk about what is considered exciting. I don't find radical innovation exciting just on it's own. I would rather have delicious any day.

So to me, when I find an excellent chef who is really cooking great food, that is what I find exciting, though it may not be innovative.

I have heard about a number of new things happening this season and next. A quick list (I'm sure I've omitted many) would include:

from Jean Georges

1) Shanghai - His Chinese restaurant - about to open in Tribeca

2) A Jean Geroges steakhouse, probably an outpost of Prime (Vegas), opening in the Time Warner AOL complex @ Columbus Circle

3) A third unknown concept at a location in the meat market area

from Keith McNally (Balthazar)

4) A large brasserie on Rivington St off of Essex

from Gray Kunz

5) a restaurant in the Time Warner AOL complex

from Thomas Keller

6) The French Laundry in the Time Warner Aol complex

7) The chef (Dufresne) from 71 Clinton Fresh Food opening his own place in parnership with the Jean George group on Clinton St

8) A new and more accessible restaurant from Alain Ducasse

I might point out that hot new young chefs are hard to find out about until they do something news worthy. I assume that a number of these types will surface as well.

So is the scene boring, I don't think so. In fact it seems to me that they're saying similar stuff in Paris, like it's boring Paris, all the innovation is in NY! Somehow what is on the other side of tracks always seems to look better. We don't always appreciate what we do have.

Ed

PS - I'm not familiar with Adria - fill me in please, thanks

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Ferran Adria and his brother Alberto operate El Bulli outside of Roses, a resort town of no other distinction in northern Catalonia. They have been causing quite a stir. They've just celebrated the 20th anniversary of the restaurant, but the news has traveled slowly. Nevertheless, none other than Alain Ducasse has sung their praises and there was a big article in the NY Times about two years ago. A search on Adria here would bring a host of threads in which he's been mentioned. A good place to look might be in the Spain board, where there are few posts and several descriptions of meals at El Bulli. Searches on foam and caramel might work as well.

:biggrin:

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Ferran Adria and his brother Alberto operate El Bulli outside of Roses, a resort town of no other distinction in northern Catalonia. They have been causing quite a stir. They've just celebrated the 20th anniversary of the restaurant, but the news has traveled slowly. Nevertheless, none other than Alain Ducasse has sung their praises and there was a big article in the NY Times about two years ago. A search on Adria here would bring a host of threads in which he's been mentioned. A good place to look might be in the Spain board, where there are few posts and several descriptions of meals at El Bulli. Searches on foam and caramel might work as well.

:biggrin:

Bux

Of course I'm familiar with the restaurant, just not the family name! Thanks.

Ed

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Of course I'm familiar with the restaurant,

That was my assumption, but then one never really knows what's on whose radar. Another thing I've learned from years of participation in online discussions is that when I'm answering someone's question in public, I'm also speaking to a lot of people who don't have the background of the person whose question I'm answering. It's hard to know when I need to fill in some background information and when to stop boring everyone. Anyway, Adria is becoming involved in several projects outside of El Bulli and his name is popping up in other connections. I'm kind of curious to see what his conceptual consulting or collaboration with NH Hotels will bring to fruition. Off hand, I can't think of the project for a food bar in a Barcelona hotel other than it's somethink like "Fast Good," which seemed like an obvious poke at the seriousness of the Slow Food movement as politics.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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