Oil from Pigs

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate your thoughts on the respective roles of oil from pigs' fat in your cuisine and in restaurants in New York. Do you believe that certain recipes in which such oil has been utilized can be made with another type of oil, and, if so, what types of oil would be appropriate?What are your views on the role of peanut oil in modern Chinese cuisine in the US?

[eatingwitheddie]

LARD (PIG OIL) IN CHINESE COOKING

Very often lard was the traditional oil used in fine Chinese stir frying. When freshly rendered it gives dishes a subtle and delectable taste. It is particularly called for in stir frys when the dish has a white color. When I first started in the business one of the restaurants I was affiliated with cooked with lard that they rendered fresh each day. It was always a secret, even from much of the staff - so many of their customers were Jewish or just wanted a helthy diet. But it made for particularly delicious food.

As our knowledge of cholesterol has increased, polyunsaturated, flavorless vegetable oil has become the standard. Soy oil is typically used today, though any colorless and odor free oil with a high burning point will work well. I frequently cook with cottonseed, canola, or corn oil.

Peanut oil can be delicious but it has a pronounced flavor, particularly so with the exported Asian brands such as 'Knife' or 'Lion & Globe' from HK (American oils like Planters tend to be bland - what's the point?). They are delicious but their strong flavor is more appropriate for spicy Szechuan dishes, whereas a delicate Cantonese sauce might benefit from a more neutral flavor.

Sometimes oil is used for it's perfume. Japanese roasted sesame oil is the prime example. We never/rarely cook with it, but would use just a touch seconds before serving a dish so that it would smell good at the table.

By the way, schmaltz, rendered chicken fat, is used by some of the most sophisticated Cantonese chefs. It adds a little 'je nais se qua', transforming a gentle dish into a savory one without the eater recognizing its presence.

[cabrales]

Thanks for your detailed response. Would it be accurate to interpret your response as indicating that oil from pigs is likely still utilized from time to time at certain Chinese restaurants in the US (without indicating the names of applicable restaurants)? Speaking only for myself, I think certain Cantonese restaurants in NY would benefit from the increased use of lard in moderation. Even if chicken fat is utilized, there are certain instances where oil from pigs would be better in adding sensations that I too find difficult to pinpoint.

Edited December 2, 2002 by cabrales (log)