How can a restaurant be so inconsistent?

[Bux]

In another thread.

For example if I want a terrific meal in NYC I might head for Pings. But, only if I order in advance, and insist that Ping cooks it himself. He is a wonderful chef. When I go there to eat off the a la carte menu the quality varies greatly, and I cope with that by ordering items that I know they do well most of the time or that don't require such great skill and /or concentration.

I've had this discussion with Suvir about Ping's. After a passable meal or two, we returned and had what four of us considered the worst meal we've had in Chinatown here. I understand that kitchens have off days and that some dishes are better than others in any restaurant. Even Michelin I believe, notes that in a three star restaurant one "sometimes" eats superbly well. Still, I can't believe the discrepancy between my last meal there and how others regard this restaurant.

Right now on the NY board, there's a discussion about a restaurant. In the thread some members have mistaken certain comments to imply that one had to know the chef to eat well there. Although this was a misreading of what was posted, it didn't stop the expression of outrage at the possibility it was true. While Ed offers an understanding into the situation at Ping's, I am surprised that such inconsistency exists as a matter of fact.

[eatingwitheddie]

While Ed offers an understanding into the situation at Ping's, I am surprised that such inconsistency exists as a matter of fact.

Bux

I'm sorry about the frustrating experience at Ping's. You're right it can be really variable. In fact unless I order certain things which seem to be reliably good: Steamed Giant Oysters with XO Sauce, Crispy Spare Rib Tips, Lobster w Ginger/Scallion or Braised w. E-fu (long life) Noodles, I ususally only go for a banquet and when I know Ping is cooking himself. I literally call his wife Nancy on her cellphone and ask if he's there. Even then the only way to assure he's cooking is to have Ruth Reichl with me (a joke - but only kind of - I introduced her to Ping and she frequents the premises) or to order an expensive elaborate banquet ahead of time - the best strategy. But when he does cook, he's one of the best. No doubt.

Life shouldn't be this problematic, but..........

In fact this leads to a whole other subject: the attitude that professional Chinese chefs have in the kitchen, compared let's say to a young American or French person who has chosen this career as an exciting and fulfilling life's work. The Chinese chef is likely to have chosen this work out of necessity and has a very different point of view which really does change things.

Best, Ed

[Jinmyo]

Ed, I think your last point to be very true. And was wondering if you are seeing any change in this amongst younger Chinese cooks and chefs?

[Bux]

I'm not looking to knock Ping or Ping's, but I am looking to push the odds in my favor of getting a good meal when I choose to eat in a Chinese restaurant. I"m well aware than in the world of French and American restaurants in New York City, popularity, price and financial success is rarely in line with the quality and value of the food (as I measure quality and value ).

There's no reason it should be otherwise in terms of Chinese restaurants in Chinatown. At one point in my life I seemed to have access to whatever grapevine kept track of moving chefs. These days I have a better source of information regarding French restaurants. Twenty or thirty years ago that information would have useless to me with my budget. Today I can look at it as a trade off, albeit a momentary trade off--eGullet should raise all our restaurant intelligence levels. Indeed, I can think of at least two Chinese restaurants that currently have my trade as a result of this web site.

I look forward to my next meal at Ping's, but you can be sure I am not walking in off the street all alone.

[eatingwitheddie]

Responding to Jinmyo:

Ed, I think your last point to be very true. And was wondering if you are seeing any change in this amongst younger Chinese cooks and chefs?

I have seen a number of young Chinese whose attitude has changed completely, but typically they are cooking in western restaurants, not traditional Chinese ones. e.g. Alex Lee the chef de cuisine at Daniel. Mostly Chinese restaurants in this country still attract recent immigrants whno manage to maintain an entirely provincial lifestyle, often not even learning to speak English. I tell a story/joke (which is really poignant if you think about it) concerning a chef who I knew for 20 years: the only English he spoke was "$20 on horse number 12 in the 6th race".