The WGF in Bangkok - The Second Decade

[Peter Green]

September 6, 2010 – WGF11 – A New Beginning

It’s that time of the year again, and, thankfully, the World Gourmet Fest is happening after all. It would seem a close thing, as only a couple of months ago the Four Sesaons (and many other of the hotels in Rachaphrasong) were shut down in the midst of the insurrection.

As you can imagine, I was somewhat concerned. Primarily for the well-being of my friends here, but also with the fate of my perennial holiday. But the news came through a while back that they would make a go of it, and so I’d been making my plans for some time.

There would be changes this year, the first WGF of this second decade. Some old standards went by the wayside. The Gala Dinner is no more. A pity, as it changes the dynamics, but it was meant to be a fundraiser for charity (The Red Cross’ Save A Child’s Life From AIDS), and at that (its purpose) it hadn’t been working well.

The cooking classes are also gone. This was in part at the chef’s requests. Many of them, given the choice of talking in public or having hot tar poured down their noses would opt for the hot tar (I’m partial to creosote over public speaking myself). Instead there would be daily buffet lunches in the lobby, with one or two of the chefs on station and providing light demonstrations.

The day-by-dramatically changes, and so this week will see more lunches on the town (and me actually accomplishing some things) with – for the most part – the afternoons and evenings spent here.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

After the usual flight from hell, I stumbled through Suvanabhumi airport’s immigration to find a surprise. (Yes, why would you give an international airport a name no one can pronounce?)

Note: full disclosure – The Four Seasons pampers repeat customers.

They had a Merc waiting (WGF11 logo on the side) to bring me back where I belong. Nelson had pretty much abandoned the element of surprise through the Facebook posting, but you’d hate for some thing like this to go to waste because I’d blithely wandered out to the taxi stand.

So the trip starts well, with my girth nestled into the leather of the rear seat, kaffir lime scented cold towels, and chilled bottles of water for me to rehydrate with.

Outside Krungthep slid by in the afternoon sun.

Let’s set the stage for the week of fine dining ahead. You can eat well in many places, but few offer the backdrop of tension and drama that can be enjoyed in the City of Angels.

I’ve been away a few months, having been in on only the prequel to the troubles up to the start of April.

But everything looked pretty much the same for much of the ride. There was the new skytrain link out to the airport that whipped past us, and, with the rains, the city was cleaner and crisper (but without that hard light of Vancouver).

The Bangkok Post, discretely folded away in a leather binder, talked of reconciliation. Reconciliation is the word of the day.

Beside me, at the toll booth, a truck loaded with pineapples runs up past us.

A billboard sailed past. Tastes of Japan is on at Central.

Another billboard: International Flavours at Paragon.

The newspaper has an ad from Le Cordon Bleu talking of a new professional program for Thai cooking. That’ll be worth asking about.

I’m also registered for Food & Hotel International next week ( a mere bit of bullying and questionable credentials, but that’s to be another story).

Driving into Rachaphrasong, messages were mixed like a stir fry. The gilded excess is still present, but Central World remains charred, although the hoardings again talk of reconciliation.

The driver takes the usual shortcut through Gaysorn – land of Gucci - and we glide past the Erawan shrine – all dancers and incense and Canon shutters – and then we’re back.

There’s the reception line and greetings with people I’ve not seen for several months, and then I’m up to the room to find a new set of chef’s whites for me,

and a plate of tarts from the good Mr. Calvert to welcome me home.

And people wonder why I keep coming back? (Okay, nobody wonders why I keep getting bigger).

I set to the tarts and fruit, which was enough to dull the edge of famine.

The pears were crisp and wet, full of that sweetness that puts you in mind of a country morning in the Okanogan. And rambutan are still one of my favourite treats. It’s been a long time, but I still remember the rush of happiness on my first trip here as I bit into rambutan, mangosteen, and other things I’d never dreamt of.\

A swim shook the cobwebs off of me, to some extent, and then I repaired to the executive club for some chardonnay and snacks. The central kitchen was preparing things this evening, and I had wisely avoided eating airplane food. (“You don’t want dinner, sir?””No thankyou, I’ll save my appetite for Bangkok.””Good idea, sir.”)

Back from the swim, I found the tray of sweets replenished. Stephane Calvert is an evil man intent on banishing any hint of a waistline I might ever have (but in a good way).

Obviously, then, I would need snacks. And that is what the executive club is for (among other things).

Grilled asparagus with olive oil and shaved parmesan;

the Four Season’s house-smoked salmon with a very Japanese drizzling of mayonnaise; a tidy little dollop of crab meat in a mushroom cap, livened up with Thai chilis to water the eyes;

seared tuna with balsamic and asparagus; and a bit of deep fried softshell crab (with more mayo).

These moments in the club are another benefit of the week. It gives me a quiet time to focus on what’s come and gone, and still to transpire.

Transpiring Next: Alejandro Digilio

[heidih]

Looking forward to your always informative and descriptive report Peter. I know there will be a shipping container load of food to report on, but so as not to miss anything, the last photo above on the left was not described I think- the "burger" type item. Please?

[judiu]

S'about (bleeping) time!

[nakji]

It’s that time of the year again, and, thankfully, the World Gourmet Fest is happening after all. It would seem a close thing, as only a couple of months ago the Four Sesaons (and many other of the hotels in Rachaphrasong) were shut down in the midst of the insurrection.

As you can imagine, I was somewhat concerned. Primarily for the well-being of my friends here, but also with the fate of my perennial holiday. But the news came through a while back that they would make a go of it, and so I’d been making my plans for some time.

There would be changes this year, the first WGF of this second decade. Some old standards went by the wayside. The Gala Dinner is no more. A pity, as it changes the dynamics, but it was meant to be a fundraiser for charity (The Red Cross’ Save A Child’s Life From AIDS), and at that (its purpose) it hadn’t been working well.

I'd be interested to hear if you think attendance has been affected due to events this year. My husband and I were booking our summer holiday in May when Bangkok was burning, so to speak, but found no reduction in bookings for the islands and other holiday places. We opted for Malaysia anyway, as it was a little quieter and cheaper, thanks to our Hangzhou Air Asia hub (W00t!W00t!) but I'm still thinking it's time to get back to Thailand.

[Peter Green]

Okay, I run the risk of being off topic (in which case give me a quick email), but things have been mixed.

This is my first time back in town since Demonstration Kitchens in March/April. The mood is one of reconciliation, and the business is coming back. Hotel bookings (for those that weren't completely shut) in the central area were down to 25%.

However, the troubles did not really stretch out far beyond certain areas, and the primary tourist destinations were without impact. Trouble does flair up but it's not too bad. Yes, there are towns in the NorthEast and in the North, but many of these are far away from the tourist areas.

Talking with the restaurants, it's been tough, but they're seeing a 30 to 50 % drop in business. but these are places doing their bulk of trade with expats here. Tourist joints are way down.

Jason came down from Korea last month and went to Phuket and Koh Chang. He loved it. No problems. Good vacation.

General rule. Keep your eyes open. don't go where you shouldn't go. Support local business and eat well.

Okay, I've got to go back downstairs and make mique with Stephane.

[nakji]

I mean - specifically, with the World Gourmet Festival - you mention some of the events have changed. Is that mainly due to the age of the event, or is it in reaction to this year's political strife?

[Peter Green]

Hi, Erin,

You know me, I think it's always a good time to come to Bangkok. Now is still a good time, with much of the tension being toned, and people ready to start having fun again. Finally the natural festive (as opposed to restive) nature of the town is coming back, with the WGF being the first event, followed by the Dance event, Jazz on several of the beaches, and technical exhibits like the Food Ingredients back at Paragon.

As to the other question, regarding the changes to the WGF, please allow me to pontificate (I pontificate well over brunch):

I don't know if it's so much a reaction, or rather an opportunity, both with respect to the civil issues and the age of the event.

Certain dates work well as turning points. You hit the start of the second decade, and you can make break with past tradition. Things have changed before, but in small, evolutionary steps. With the jump from ten to eleven, you have a chance to start anew.

Couple that with what has happened in the streets outside, with the hotel shut for a month, and you effectively have carte blanche to make your changes (and Malcolm Ormond, the F&B, has been here for a few years now). At this point people are just happy to still have the event, and this is the first major event since the troubles.

So, strike while the iron is hot.

Some of it helps to draw the chefs. As I'd said, many were far from comfortable with delivering a taught course of an hour or so at what was (11:00 a.m.) first thing in the morning for a lot of them (dawn seems to be the bedtime of choice for many). Now it's an appearance at noon at lunch, and a light demonstration for a few minutes. For many, this is enough. And if this keeps the chefs happier, then all the better.

I do miss the classes, though. It gave me the opportunity to take in a number of new techniques, and also to meet up with a lot of my friends. Many people will only do one or two of the dinners, but will be happy to take in lunches, and the majority all seem to know each other. It becomes much more social.

The loss of the Gala dinner is a mixed matter for me. It normally drew a completely different crowd. Whereas I've made a lot of new (and some very good friends) over the years through the lunches, the Gala dinners brings in people who, while fascinating, I never seem to come across again.

However (one of my favourite words) the Gala was not raising the funds needed for charity, and while it could work out very well as a chance for the chefs to work together on a banquet, and it was a good excuse to decorate the ballroom (it was very pretty last year), it's a lot of work for limited returns.

But, in terms of attendance, I've seen most of the dinners well attended, and some of my friends have been turned away with no available seats for several dinners (although the local habit of double or triple booking a weekend night always leaves a table or two free). Perhaps the withdrawal of the lunches has given them more reason to do an extra dinner or two?

I must say, I"m hyped about the Scent Dinner tonight. As much as many other things have changed this is a return to earlier WGF's, with their theme dinners (the Luxury Dinners, and Nicolas' wonderful Riviera meal are still on my lips).

So, perhaps it would be better to say different, but same same?

Edited September 12, 2010 by Peter Green (log)

[Peter Green]

HI, Heidi,

Much of my life is an oversight. They had given the description as "beef hamburgers" I believe, but would "sliders" be the more appropriate term?

[Nasi_Campur]

Interesting report and a good read, albiet a event which is a bit overly hoity-toity for my personal tastes.

Soo Varn A Phoom. Not so hard with a bit of practice!

[Peter Green]

Ah, but you have to drop the hard "v" (wiangchan vs vientiane?)

I'll be back soon. It's just been really busy.

"Hoiity toity?" Moi?

[Shelby]

Glad to see you, Peter!