TN: Recent tastes

[Florida Jim]

Cheese and crackers:

1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée SC:

Should anyone wish to know why syrah is my favorite grape, they need only consult exhibit “SC;” initially this has some char on the nose and some green but, as it opens, these elements fade into the warm red fruit compote, cured meat, olive and milk chocolate aspects of this wine to become merely an accent; smooth and supple in the mouth with a linen texture, flavors that follow the nose and develop into nuances, superb balance and a hint of grip; long, flavor-filled and integrated finish. Sublime; a sip of pleasing relief from a difficult day. 13% alcohol, imported by New France Wine Co. and about $40 a couple of months ago; I bought what I could and wish I’d bought everything they had.

Grilled chicken, stuffing and porcini gravy:

2005 Catherine & Pierre Breton, Chinon Beaumont:

A remarkably concentrated wine with rich berry smells accented with mint and earth; very deep and extracted but perfectly balanced with a lightening bolt of acidity etching all the flavors, almost grainy in texture yet still round in the mouth; and incredibly long. Another magnificent Chinon for 2005 and one that will reward cellaring. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $19; worth multiples of that.

Cheese and crackers:

2005 Steele, Pinot Blanc:

Clean, pleasant aromas of white fruit and butter; light-weight, soft, a little thin in the mouth and a bit short. Innocuous wine that should be drunk immediately. 13.5% alcohol and about $14; not for half that.

Potato and fennel gratin with grilled sausages:

2002 Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes:

This has opened a good deal since release with lots of black fruit and berry smells and tastes, a solid earthy streak underlying and the texture of satin. A really good wine that is structured, balanced, just coming into its own and excellent with the meal. 13% alcohol, imported by Becky Wasserman and about $20; I bought a lot.

Chili and corn bread:

2002 Jacky Janodet, Moulin-à-Vent:

More reserved and polished than the Michaud but more approachable as well with solid fruit and earth tones, good integration and an impression of completeness. Pretty wine that was good with and without the food. 13% alcohol, imported by the Henry Wine Group and about $13 on release; I’d buy it again.

Best, Jim