Eigensinn Farm

[Explorer]

If you'd read the major article by James Chiatto about Stadtlander in the current issue of Toronto Life, you'd get from the author that the guy is a food genious that walks on air, is a food magician, an acrobat of the senses, a miracle maker, a great chef, a movie producer, a philosopher, a writer, all-in-one, etc...Quote: "On special occasions at Eigensinn Farm, world-renowned chef Michael Stadtländer is creating a kind of experiential theatre of the senses...."

The above article is one of the reasons why there's still some magic about going there. With my respects to Mr. Chiatto, the article was just too much.

For me, the trip there was an experience, an event, an experiment, a night we enjoyed, but that we would not repeat again. Yes, there were a lot of good things about it, but there were enough bad things about it that aren't needed. There are far too many other places out there where the food is magical too without flaws.

Part of the reason his show continues is that people keep going there on repeat visits, perhaps not knowing what else is available, while others continue to write about him and compromising their integrity at the same time. I think that place and his show are washed-up, honestly. I know it's tough to reach the top like he has, but it's even tougher to "stay" there. That's what makes the difference between a 3* place that keeps their stars for 30 years and other places that get them and then ???. At Eigensinn Farm, they set the terms of the engagement according to their own rules that are convenient to them; i.e., not always open, open 3 nights/week, they don't always return phone calls, they have a lousy answering machine, they charge whatever they want, they innovate only if they want to. It's possible that the couple is tired over there. It shows.

The question is "Was influencial", not "IS" right now. In the mid-80's and early 90's, he was influencial for Ontario mostly and to some extent the rest of Canada. Comparing him to Adria today is like comparing something current to something passe. It doesn't compute.

[Lesley C]

I saw one of those Food Network specials on Eigensinn farm and it completely discouraged all interest I had in the place. The food looked semi-awful (the horrible camera work hardly helped) but what got me the most was the look behind the scenes in the kitchen. I remember Stadtlander was making a lemon mousse. He kept dipping his finger in the mousse and licking it clean. I'm usually not a stickler for hygiene, but that scene made me feel kind of sick. And it all looked so gloomy, with all these odd people mulling about drinking wine, watching people dancing in the forest, and talking about what a genius Stadtlander is. It was so pretentious and embarrassing. I blame the director of the program to a certain extent, but really, I didn't see anything to get excited about. And I thought Stadtlander's kitchen technique was sloppy.

If you want to see a world-class chef at work, watch Susur Lee peel an apple. I’ve never tasted his food, but I know it would be brilliant just by the way he peels an apple.

[docsconz]

This has been an eye-opening thread. Eigensinn Farm has been very high on my to-do list, but now I'm not so sure

[GordonCooks]

This has been an eye-opening thread. Eigensinn Farm has been very high on my to-do list, but now I'm not so sure

I give it a must-do if your ever in the area. From the food standpoint, it's truly brilliant. As a restaurant experience, it's unique. I would put Stadtlander in Susur's category as far as the skill level they possess and the ability to put their uncompromised idea on a plate.

[Kenk]

I can't hold this in any more but when it comes to food handling and cleanliness, Ontario is a backwater. Southern Ontario in particular has an awful record. There are some signs things Toronto are improving but you still have to be very careful when buying any thing from any store or restaurant.

Again if you see some practices out in the open that make you nervous, there are more not that far under the surface.

A chef cannot be world class without excelent food handleing practices.

[GordonCooks]

I can't hold this in any more but when it comes to food handling and cleanliness, Ontario is a backwater.  Southern Ontario in particular has an awful record.  There are some signs things Toronto are improving but you still have to be very careful when buying any thing from any store or restaurant.

Again if you see some practices out in the open that make you nervous, there are more not that far under the surface.

A chef cannot be world class without excelent food handleing practices.

I find that Ontario (Spec Toronto) is one of the few large Metropolitan areas that provide timely inspections for ALL establishments, big & small, and display a report card ( or website) for all to see.

[estufarian]

Can I believe my eyes? Extreme views (almost passions) about an Ontario based chef and restaurant. Doesn’t that automatically qualify him as important (possibly influential)?

Of course, Ontario has excellent, good, mediocre and poor restaurants – just like anywhere else. And even if we don’t complain (e.g. at unhygienic conditions), we don’t go back.

Turning to influential, I find it surprising that the three chefs topping many (possibly most) peoples lists are Jamie Kennedy, Michael Stadtlander and Susur Lee, who all emerged at around the same time – 20 years ago. Even expanding this to the other successful, talented chefs (e.g. Chris McDonald, Mark McEwan – to use examples, not slight other candidates) still takes us back 15 years.

All of the above are still producing variations on their original themes. Probably more accomplished, but recognizable as an evolution from those earlier days, rather than a reinvention. What prompted the explosion of talent at that time? Is it as simple as economic opportunities as the boomers ate out more often? Why hasn’t there been a subsequent emergence (other than temporary shooting stars such as jump-up soup)? Certainly there have been some talented chefs, but nothing approaching the influence of the above names. Here I’m deliberately excluding the ethnic cuisines, at least in terms of creativity – it could be argued that there’s even more influence there, witness the number of restaurants where ‘Special #4’ is actually the same dish across dozens of restaurants (discussion for another topic).

So where are the next generation of innovative chefs – as apposed to one-dish wonders? And why did we have to wait for 20+ years (or did I miss it)?

[Lesley C]

Interesting topic emerging here. Let's start a new thread so this doesn't get lost.

[GordonCooks]

Even expanding this to the other successful, talented chefs (e.g. Chris McDonald, Mark McEwan – to use examples, not slight other candidates) still takes us back 15 years.

I would humbly add Keith Froggett, Marc Thuet, and Anthony Walsh to that list.

As far as the new vanguard, I propose that if Renee Foote had stayed in that part of the biz, her name would be right up there. I'd love to know some of the new up & comers myself.

[GordonCooks]

Interesting topic emerging here. Let's start a new thread so this doesn't get lost. 

I had started a previous discussion here

[Coop]

Sure Stadlander is great, you got to love his show, I think it is even more influential then the early Julia Child shows on french cooking, sort of a Larousse's Gastronomic of the TV world. All must agree that Toronto has now overtaken Paris, Dijon, London and New York as the culinary centre of the world. Who needs Bocouse, Keller, The Roux's, Boloud, Troisgros and the rest of those fois gras eaters when we have Stadlander, Christine Cushing, Ken Kostic and Daphna Rabinowitz.

[jcsaucey]

You forgot Rob Feenie

[Lesley C]

Sorry Gordoncooks. Let's try again.

OK Torontonians, speak up on the other thread!

[Coop]

I wish I could have included Feenie but he's from Vancouver.

I'm sorry please excuse my sarcastic post but this guy Stadlander and Food Network Canada really gets me going. I just can't believe people would pay $200.00 to sit around in the mud and eat this guy's food. And could he be anymore arrogant, it's always "I created this and I created that", and "I served sushi down by the river", give me a break.

Did I mention Michael Smith, this guy calls mirepoix "aromatizing agents". Food Network Canada force feeds us these awful shows and picks up the crap from the parent company like Unwrapped, and that Top 5 show with Bobby Rivers. Oh yeah, do we really need to see Cooking School Diarys over and over and over again.

Edited September 2, 2003 by Coop (log)

[Lesley C]

So true, Food Network Canada sucks so badly these days that Rob Feenie is starting to look good compared to all those candy-making shows.

[Oreganought]

Just proceed to north 44,the food isn't in the same league,but it sure is pretty.No mud for 20 miles.

[Oreganought]

Sorry Gordoncooks. Let's try again. 

OK Torontonians, speak up!

Didier Leroy formally of the fifth.Isn't he working out of his apartment,small dinner engagments with a tall price tag?

Where is he now?

Just found this:Restaurant Profile

Still dazzling them at The Fifth, on his days off master chef Didier Leroy opens his home to guests who pay from $125 to $200 (price varies with menu, B.Y.O.B.) per person prix fixe for French classical cuisine.

The setting is a gorgeous downtown condo loft outfitted with a six-burner gas Vulcan range and an industrial Hobart fridge -- built into the entrance hall.

Comfortably seating 12, a traditional blond beechwood Parson's leg dining table is set with Hermes placemats and Limoges dinner service. The exquisite silver-plated Ercuis cutlery weighs as much if not more than the plates themselves. One thing is clear: Leroy takes great care when it comes to the details of these intimate affairs.

Edited September 3, 2003 by Oreganought (log)

[Explorer]

Re: Eigensinn Farm; We're bad...but not stupid, so l am carrying this conversation on at this other thread that GordonCooks started, as it's becoming outside the real of Standtlander only. New topic.

Has any one been to the Spring fest at Eigensinn farm that James Chiatto raved about? We were there 3 months prior and they were supposed to inform us about it; but guess what? we didn't receive any info, so it appears that they don't want the business.

[GordonCooks]

I'm sorry please excuse my sarcastic post but this guy Stadlander and Food Network Canada really gets me going. I just can't believe people would pay $200.00 to sit around in the mud and eat this guy's food. And could he be anymore arrogant, it's always "I created this and I created that", and "I served sushi down by the river", give me a break.

I can see your point - but if you look at it from a food standpoint instead of a restaurant standpoint, maybe it will make more sense. Mind you, I would never think of taking my girl out for a romantic evening there, but some of the best dishes I've ever tasted have been standing in a restaurant kitchen, on a greasy floor. Sort of a culinary adventure if you will. And yes, sacrificing a little innovation for overstuffed banquettes, a 20 page wine list, a cheese cart is a choice I would make 4 out of 5 times. But that elusive 1 time gives you a benchmark.

[estufarian]

Eigensinn Farm! Everybody talks about it – it’s even on top10 lists of the best restaurants in the world. But no reviews anywhere (other than the special events). Should I burst the mystique bubble? With only around 50 diners per week and maybe a 40-week season (sometimes less) only 2000 diners per year can try this experience. So, is it hype, or is it the real thing?

Having eaten at many (at least 4 permanent and several guest appearances) of Michael Stadtlander’s restaurants my accumulated knowledge predisposes me to expect a passionate dedicated chef whose commitment to an organic, nurturing lifestyle (all aspects, not just food) is backed by solid cooking skills and lesser business skills. He’s also one of the “nice guys” and I’ve yet to find a chef in Canada who can beat Michael in food and wine matching. But organic food must still pass the taste test – and it helps if the meal comes in a smooth progression, rather than a mixture of rushed courses followed by hour-long pauses (as happened at previous restaurants). Even at Eigensinn, the experience has evolved from the original B&B to “fill the small room” to a more controlled usage of time and space.

This time I called in August for a reservation for 8 people – a group of us who try to get to Eigensinn annually (that way we get 3 oz portions of each wine – the minimum acceptable to allow as many wines as possible). But the new rules are that no groups larger than 6 will be served – this because of the potential problems in the kitchen serving larger groups simultaneously. However, if we book the whole room (hence not inconvenience other guests), then we can have up to 10 people (we stay at 8). But there are only 2 days available in 2003 (all others already having at least one table booked), both in December. So we have 3 months to anticipate and pray for no snow. We are told the time to arrive (recall this is the family home with normal household requirements including managing a school-age son).

We call 5 days prior for a ‘tentative menu’. From experience we know to expect last minute changes depending on availability and freshness (a previous example was when the promised guinea-hen was no longer available as the entire flock – free range of course - had been killed by raccoons the night before). It’s promised for 48 hours ahead; arrives – hand-scribbled and 80% legible – 36 hours ahead; and contains minor changes by the time we’re served. We’ve already planned a tentative slate of wines, but the lack of a ‘serious’ meat course (pork and duck are the promised ingredients) means we drop the big reds and scramble to add pinot noirs. But as usual we throw in an extra half dozen wines for last-minute changes.

We congregate at our regular B&B and are welcomed as the old friends we now are. The arrangement includes being driven both to and from Eigensinn so that we do not have to worry about drinking and then driving. As Eigensinn does not charge corkage, this is a significant issue. The B&B’s rely heavily on Eigensinn for business and the symbiotic relationship has aided the whole area. We’ve planned for snow, which hasn’t yet arrived, so we’re early. A quick phone call and we turn up at Eigensinn 30 minutes early. The dogs greet us in the parking yard (the area in front of the barn) and we proceed up the path built from the bases of broken wine bottles, through the laundry room/reception area (to remove coats and boots) and into the dining room lit by dozens of candles and a log fire. Wines are unpacked and lined up and glasses produced for the first Champagne (NV Brut – Montaudon: a quaffing Champagne, good structure with a lingering lemon finish). Apart from the immediate family (Michael, Nobuyo and son Herman) there are 3 ‘assistants’ all trainees; a sommelier/server and two kitchen apprentices. The Champagne disappears during the greetings and we get updates on this years developments, including the Stadtlander film, shot to show the philosophy of the operation with views of the farm in all seasons and the construction of the ‘underground’ kitchen (built into the slope of the land using old tyres filled with earth and stacked with the spaces filled with clay) which will be used to cook outside for the special events. This is previewed on a laptop – yes, they do have electricity!

Nobuyo suggests saving our next wine for the amuse gueule course, as it will match better, so we open a sherry (Principe Pio – Lustau; a dry oloroso sherry, elegant and dry, yet with a round mouth feel and good acid, making an easy drinking wine) which quickly disappears as we watch the rest of the film.

Hmmm. A Champagne and a fortified wine on empty stomachs. The noise level is already high – now we know why Michael doesn’t want additional guests with large parties. I’ve been nominated to take notes (usually we just sit back and enjoy) and people are telling me what to write down. This isn’t a restaurant review – it’s nothing like a restaurant; no menus; no formality, yet a beautifully presented table with fine glassware and cutlery. The room decoration is ‘artistic driftwood’. Lampshades for the electric bulbs are woven from twigs, feathers and shells. The ceiling features painted pools of colour outlined in thin wooden branches. A wooden vine trails completely around the room. The fireplace is stone but everywhere else the decorations are natural, stones, shells, both broken and unbroken pottery and wood. The walls are an ochre sand-like colour.

But, back to the table. First warm damp towels are offered and then the amuse gueule platters are served. The platters are natural wood of course, as are the chopsticks we use to eat this course. This is a strongly Japanese influenced course with seven separate ‘bites’ presented with clam, mussel and oyster shells as plate decorations. In no particular order, these are:

Head cheese with grated radish, mustard and horseradish

Squid sushi with rice and wasabi

Tuna marinated in soy and maple syrup on a sweet butter potato

Malpeque oyster in sake on the half shell

Atlantic salmon tartare on toast

Soup of mussels in clam chowder with saffron

Fresh smoked ham (made at Eigensinn)

The wine that we had deferred – Krug Grande Cuvée; complex, persistent bubbles with a very long finish but a touch of oxidation and apples in the finish. Champagne with raw (mostly) seafood – a stunning match for a spectacular course. If any criticism, the ham was somewhat mismatched and could have been eliminated although my remaining sherry was also the perfect match for the smokiness. But the remaining bites were seamless, joined by the chewy texture (which did extend to the ham) and the temperature of each bite was perfect – the soup was hot and the others were NOT straight out of the fridge (which has bugged me at other restaurants).

The next course was described as ‘Essence from Venison and Wild Mushrooms’ – a somewhat understated description of what we received. First the base was smoked venison stock with matsuhake and pine mushrooms (I understand that Michael has a regular forager that brings him local wild mushrooms). This contained a minced venison ‘dumpling’ and was topped with a thin slice of foie gras (cooked in the broth) and cèpes. This was served in a hand-made pottery bowl, which sat in a birds nest suspended in a triangle of natural branches. Absolutely spectacular again. And served with a perfect wine match. ‘Boston Bual’ Special Reserve – Rare Wine Co. This is a special madeira blend that is medium sweet, smoky and has good acidity. The smoky/earthy notes were perfect for the mushrooms and venison and the sweetness and acidity combined were a perfect foil for the foie gras.

Next was the Foie Gras course. Sourced from a single farm in Quebec, this was sautéed and served in a duck jus, accompanied by mashed blue potato and pear, roasted parsnip and roasted Spanish onion with arugula sprouts. This was a healthy (or unhealthy, depending on your point of view) portion. The foie lacked the firmness of a seared presentation, and because of the jus the richness was more subdued. The pear was absolutely perfect – when perfectly ripe it is my favourite fruit. I could happily have just eaten pears – OK I’m exaggerating because I wouldn’t have passed up a perfectly seared foie gras either. This dish was subtler than anticipated, so it fades in the memory. Classic French cuisine fans would probably have been more impressed than I was this time.

The wine was a 1994 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive – Zind-Humbrecht. VT’s are my favourite match with Foie Gras and this didn’t disappoint. The acid in this wine seems to have dropped a little as it aged, but it wraps perfectly around the fattiness of the dish. But drink up now before the acid drops further.

Onto the soup course. It probably goes without saying that the soup bowls were handmade etc., and mounted on a raised turned wooden plate. I’ll abandon further descriptions of the plates as the point has been made. A very concentrated Jerusalem Artichoke Soup supported sautéed Halibut, Hot-Smoked (at the farm) Salmon belly and Sea Urchin, decorated with a tarragon leaf.

Not an easy wine match. I had saved some of the Madeira, which was again a fine match. But we also brought out the first dry wine 1999 Puligny Montrachet, Les Folatières from Joseph Drouhin. This proved too light for this course, so was retained for the ‘fish course’ to follow.

While we were eating the soup course, a grill had been brought out and placed on the dining room wood fire. The next course was partially cooked here in the fireplace, then returned to the kitchen to be served as: BBQ Pickerel and Braised Lobster with roasted kohlrabi, lobster bisque and angel hair pasta. The texture was perfect here, but I found the whole dish a little sweet without the definition of the previous courses. The Puligny Montrachet was fairly lean and structured but the vanilla from the oak worked well with the sweetness of the dish. The second wine 1996 Meursault, Les Tillets had more personality, with a slight nuttiness and good acidity but didn’t work as well with the food, although by itself was more impressive.

For those not keeping count, we’re already up to 7 wines (2 of which were fortified) so we planned a short break now. It had started snowing and our next course was a blackcurrant sorbet with reduced apple cider and honey. This was served in an upturned broken champagne bottle punt, which nestled in a mound of the fresh snow.

Some of us tracked out to the smokehouse, while others circled around the table a few times – and one actually had a 10-minute nap on the dining room sofa. You just can’t do that at the French Laundry! You also can’t do that if there are other patrons. Sometime during this respite, one of the farm dogs managed to sneak into the dining room and quietly lay under the table for the rest of the meal – presumably hoping for some gourmet crumbs.

After a 15-minute pause it was time for the main courses. A roasted suckling piglet chop with hedgehog mushrooms and black trumpet mushrooms in a ‘sweet sauce’! I can’t get more specific here as a heated discussion broke out about the origin of the piglet. Some heard ‘Red River Farm’ and some heard ‘Eduardo’ – that being the name of the piglet before it graced our table. Among the various simultaneous discussions were references to ‘The Restaurant at the End of the Universe’; the wisdom of naming farm animals and just how friendly one should get with ones dinner. To protect the sensitivities of the tenderer members of the group we didn’t pursue the matter to a resolvable conclusion or a complete description of the dish. There were also other parts of the piglet on the plate too. Outside the controversy, I found the pig rather fatty without much flavour (I recall that it was a ‘heritage’ variety, not the bred-lean varieties we get commercially). We had two wines a 1994 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl from Zind-Humbrecht – all minerals and petrol and surprisingly high alcohol. In theory this was a perfect match with the pork. The second wine was 1997 Pinot Noir – Dry River, one of the top Pinot Noirs from New Zealand. This had some beet and cherry character – almost a cross between the North American and Burgundy styles, but lacked complexity. The fruit was solid and straight through with a touch of sweetness and earth but the alcohol gave a hot finish, which was the final impression.

Again, while we were both discussing and eating the piglet course, the grill was brought out and placed on the living room fire and parts of the next course were grilled over the fire. Advertised as ‘Eigensinn Duck’ we still awaited the final presentation. Essentially we had different parts of the duck served half a dozen different ways. This, in itself, was not a surprise as I’ve had several variations of this dish over the years. What adds a dimension here is that you know the duck was raised right here at Eigensinn – it’s not just a clever preparation but almost a communion with the food. And it’s that dimension that sets Eigensinn apart from any other fine dining experience I’ve had. And this course (even more so than the piglet) underlines Michael’s philosophy, reverence for nature and passion. Even if this dish had been prepared more spectacularly elsewhere, I can’t imagine feeling the same connection as one gets here. Magic!

Ok. So what did he do with it? On the grill was skewered duck stomach and red cabbage on a plum twig. Also the neck stuffed with the liver to make a sausage. The breast was roasted and served in a German Xmas Cookie Sauce (containing nuts and molasses). The leg had been confited and there was a dumpling and a strawberry marmalade – and a small Xmas tree cookie. Our wines were a 1996 Charmes Chambertin from Jadot; again alcohol was obtrusive, with dominant flavours of cherry skins in particular. A sturdy wine that contrasted nicely with the duck. The second wine was 1989 Royals Club ‘Blue Stripe’ from Remoissenet (this wine is an ‘overproduction’ from a designated vineyard in Burgundy that has been sold off (legally) to reduce the permitted yield to be maintained – believed to be Corton). This was a quaffable wine with a hint of stewed beets and a sweet flowery finish. Almost certainly not a Corton as lacks the structure but possibly a Volnay. A nice wine but too light for the food. Surprisingly I found the best match for the duck to be the Clos Windsbuhl riesling that I’d saved from the previous course.

Next the cheese course – camembert, chevrochon and a couple of others I didn’t note. Probably because by now the group were singing ‘Golden Oldies’ from the 50’s and 60’s. Did I mention we had great wine? And with this course we had 1990 Grand-Puy-Lacoste – one of the finest wines of the evening. perfect balance of fruit tannin and acid with pronounced blackcurrant flavours.

Dessert was apple strüdel with maple sugar, a wild blueberry compote, lemon sage honey cinnamon ice cream and a plum poached in a red wine and Hennessey Cognac reduction. I have a note on Poire William in there somewhere too. This was accompanied by a 1989 Gewürztraminer Heimbourg Selection Grain Nobles from Zind-Humbrecht (only a half bottle as we didn’t want to over imbibe). This was all honey and surprisingly high in alcohol. A dessert in itself.

And to finish Grand Fours – petit fours doesn’t begin to describe it. A four foot long split log placed on the table containing about 3-dozen items. Truffles – dark light and white; banana and tangerine sorbets; various almond cookies. And coffee/tea/infusions of choice. Accompanied by a Dow 1977 Vintage Port – which we didn’t quite finish (until breakfast the next morning).

So how was it overall? The best meal I’ve ever had IN CANADA. This one was exceptional and exceeded all previous Stadtlander meals (and I’ve had dozens). I even skipped last years trip as I preferred a conflicting function and wasn’t convinced that the effort and expense justified was warranted. But this year I really ‘got’ Eigensinn for the first time. It’s unique.

Can I recommend it unreservedly – no! We had the place to ourselves, which breaks down a lot of the formalities and ‘regular’ culture associated with fine dining. I don’t think we could have opened up as much to the experience with other patrons in the same room. We wouldn’t have relaxed as much – and also we would have to be cognisant of their feelings and experiences. And, of course, you probably couldn't match the range of wines we had. But will I return (even at $250 per person, no credit cards)? Absolutely! And the sooner the better (which means earliest next spring given the waiting list).

And breakfast at the B&B was superb. Fresh juices. Selection of fruits. Freshly baked muffins and biscuits and a superb Frittata. Contact me directly for the name of the B&B if you can get an Eigensinn reservation.

[tammylc]

Fascinating. Thanks for the review. Sounds like an absolutely unique experience.

[GordonCooks]

My single experience at Eigensinn has to be "the"most memorable restaurant experience ever..

I made this statement over a year ago

Anyone agree that Michael Stadtlander is Canada's Thomas Keller ??

Edited December 17, 2003 by GordonCooks (log)

[Schneier]

Thanks for the review.

How far is the restaurant from Toronto? I assume there's no reasonable way to get back to Toronto after dinner?

Bruce

[nanuq]

Thanks, great report - have always planned Eigensinn as our celebratory meal when we return (permanently) to Toronto, and you've confirmed that plan!

Tracey

[docsconz]

This was accompanied by a 1989 Gewürztraminer Heimbourg Selection Grain Nobles from Zind-Humbrecht (only a half bottle as we didn’t want to over imbibe). This was all honey and surprisingly high in alcohol. A dessert in itself.

Great report about a restaurant I have been very interested in (moreso now), but this sentence took the cake! I rolled on the floor.