The Eastern And Oriental Express

[Holly Moore]

As part of a recent jaunt through SE Asia I treated myself to a three day journey between Singapore and Bangkok on the Eastern and Oriental Express.

Like the more famous Orient Express, the O&E defines luxury rail travel - "The interior walls are cherry wood and elm burr paneled, adorned with decorative marquetry and intricate inlays." I opted for a pullman cabin - the smallest and least costly - a sofa that converts to a bed in the evening, minimum walking space, and a more minimal sized bathroom - posh, efficient, and enough space even for a person of my size.

Evidently I didn't snap any pics of the stateroom - check the website - a pic of morning juice gives a feel for the cabin's decor.

Once cabin fever sets in, time can be passed either in an open air observation car at the rear of the train

A bar car

complete with piano player

and of course, the dining car - formal wear or dark suits are encouraged for dinner

Stops between Singapore and Bangkok - Butterworth Malaysia for a ferry ride to Penang and the River Kwai.

Penang was pretty much limited to a rickshaw ride through the city -

The River Kwai includied a trip down the river ending at the memorial and cemetery for WWII POWs who did not survive the Bridge over the River Kwai's construction.

Next post gets into the meals.

[Holly Moore]

Meal service on the Eastern and Oriental Express includes three lunches, two in-cabin continental breakfasts, two in-cabin teas, and two dinners. The capabilities of a non-AMTRAK dining car kitchen has always amazed me.

Fist continental breakfast:

and the second:

The first afternoon's tea service:

and day two:

Lunch and dinner were served in the dining car. Day one lunch, just after boarding in Singapore:

To start, Terrine of vegetables in light tomato and chili jam with baked cherry tomatoes:

Followed by Singapore chicken curry with curried potato, spinach and chick peas and rice pilaf:

For dessert:

Mascarpone gateau with candied lemon coulis

Dinner the first evening:

An amuse to start:

Then Pan fried sea scallops with lemon and vanilla dressing and cauliflower puree

Two entrees to choose from. I went with Medallion of beef in a red wine reduction with fricassee of crisply cooked vegetables, deep fried lotus chips.

Dessert - Gingered pineapple tarte tartin and macadamia parfait with mango sauce

and Petis fours with coffee service

[Holly Moore]

Day two lunch, after we returned from Penang

Caesar salad with tandoori roasted chicken, thai caesar dressing. It can not be escaped. Caesar salad with chicken is everywhere.

Followed by Mixed seafood on lemongrass risotto, accompanied by fragrant Siamese yellow curry bouillon

For dessert - Mango and passion fruit creme brulee.

Dinner the second evening led off with Goose liver won ton with Thai asparagus in truffle bouillon

For my entree - Medallion of lamb with pan fried garlic-scented Chinese mushrooms and taro puree.

Dessert - Peanut butter and chocolate delice with candied popcorn and fruit coulis

The third and final lunch, after rafting the River Kwai started with Tom-yam flavored leek and potato veloute

Then Confit of Duck with braised ginger cabbage and Hong Kong kailan

Dessert - Fruit tartlets

Finally, a few views along the way

Summed up - I think this was one of those once in a lifetime experiences. Definite worth doing, but think that on my next trip I'd rather spend more time in Bangkok of Chiang Mai. I was able to pick up a special deal - $2200. Normally a pullman single cabin goes for for about $2,800.

[jimk]

Thrilled to see this post as my wife and I will be taking the E&O in the opposite direction in a few weeks time, travelling from Bangkok to Singapre in mid-August.. The food looks more interesting than I expected ... Curious to hear your impressions of the food. Standard hotel fare or a notch above? Only a couple of choices for each course, right? But presumably you had different options in front of you for every meal? And what about the wine list? Our itinerary just has us on the train for three dinners but only one lunch on board (our second day of travel we stop for lunch in Butterworth, Malaysia).

[Holly Moore]

For train service the food was top notch, comparable to a very good but not great restaurant. The only choice available on the menu was from two entrees at dinner. Wines were good, could be purchased by either the bottle or glass. I'm not all that knowledgeable on wines to get into particular characteristics, but the oenophiles around me seemed impressed.

[WHS]

How strictly was the jacket-at-dinner dress code enforced? What was the crowd like? How much time did they give you in Penang?

[Holly Moore]

For dinner it was strongly recommended - a few people showed up in sports coats and it didn't seem all that uncomfortable for them. I'm not sure what would happen if a man showed up without a jacket.

As I was on my own, I shared a table with one or three other travelers - some from the US. Some from the UK. Seating is assigned and changes every meal. Good conversations there and in the bar car, so not overly stuffy.

There is the option of disembarking at Penang (Butterworth) and laying over until the next train comes - three days or a week, depending on the season. But for those continuing on it was too short - maybe three hours. And if one elected to take the included rickshaw tour there is no time to one's own. The River Kwai stop was much less structured other than the barge ride down the river.