Blue Hill at Stone Barns

[Bond Girl]

I was up at Stone Barnes this past sunday. Mike gave us a tour of the beautiful kitchen and the wine cellar. He also showed us the private dining room overlooking the garden. Unfortunately, I got there too late for Brunch and dinner reservation is booked a month ahead. My friend raved about the duck panini she had at the cafe and the cheese plate I had was an interesting selection that was well thought out, and very delicious.

[Bux]

They can't be aiming for four stars -- not while they let old guys in tracksuits eat there, at least (as was the case on my visit... to think I was worried *I* would be underdressed!). It's obvious they care about and believe in thier concept and they should be happy with this review.

The original Blue Hill, off Washington Square in Greenwich Village, has never had a dress code. Clothing ranges from blue jeans to dark suits with most of the diners falling inbetween in terms of dress. Shirt sleeves and sports jackets are equally common. While Stone Barns is in the suburbs, it wouldn't at all surprise me to see a more formally dressed crowd there, than in a restaurant off Washington Sqaure. I generally feel people should dress in a manner that makes them comfortable, rather than adhereing to an artificial code, but it often seems as if some people have no sense of propriety at all.

[rozrapp]

They can't be aiming for four stars -- not while they let old guys in tracksuits eat there, at least (as was the case on my visit... to think I was worried *I* would be underdressed!).

In her long review of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Andrea Strong includes a hilarious description of a "wardrobe issue" that befell her dining partner.

http://www.andreastrong.com/belly/belly_vi...7cc509b8fae6426

[alacarte]

I generally feel people should dress in a manner that makes them comfortable, rather than adhereing to an artificial code, but it often seems as if some people have no sense of propriety at all.

I expect nothing less from the 'burbs.

It's pretty laughable that the restaurant has created an artificial "rural" farm environs outdoors, side-by-side with a faux "urban" fancy-dress restaurant indoors, all essentially on the same premises.

My personal definition of the suburbs is that it's an artificial construct that is supposed to embody the best of both worlds -- but ends up embodying the worst traits of both.

[bpearis]

It's pretty laughable that the restaurant has created an artificial "rural" farm environs outdoors, side-by-side with a faux "urban" fancy-dress restaurant indoors, all essentially on the same premises.

My personal definition of the suburbs is that it's an artificial construct that is supposed to embody the best of both worlds -- but ends up embodying the worst traits of both.

It's not fancy dress there -- I think they tell you "no shorts" when you reserve, that's about it -- but I just thought tracksuits seemed taking it a little too far. I don't guess you should turn them away, but I wish people cared a little more sometimes. I have never had a job with a dress code and don't frequent places where a jacket is required, but if I'm going somewhere nice I at least tuck in my shirt.

But if you're going to tour the grounds, you don't want to be wearing good shoes. It is a bit of a dichotomy for sure.

[oakapple]

In her long review of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Andrea Strong includes a hilarious description of a "wardrobe issue" that befell her dining partner.

http://www.andreastrong.com/belly/belly_vi...7cc509b8fae6426

That's great reading...and worthwhile. It's no small achievement to get a less-than-stellar review from Andrea Strong.

[docsconz]

Interesting reading indeed. I wonder how much of an effect the pants episode may have had on their palates? On the othe hand, the review rings true.

[SobaAddict70]

It kind of begs the question as to whether Ms. Strong was disinclined to like the restaurant based on other elements of her review (i.e., the pig clapping episode). There seem to be several debates going on in that review:

-- putting yourself in the chef's hands and trusting his or her judgment over the course of a dinner (i.e., her quibble about the lack of salt on the table);

-- the "subtlety" issue (i.e., her reaction to the chicken) -- this is a point of contention that people have, even with respect to the original Blue Hill -- they either "get" the subtlety or they don't;

-- related to the second point, the lack of a "wow" factor; why is it that in this day and age, people who go to three and four star restaurants expect the "wow" factor be ever-present? Sometimes excellence is merely simplicity.

-- that the amount of the total bill justified the food and service received...

With these things in mind, I wonder if New Yorkers are ready for the equivalent of Chez Panisse East. Doesn't seem that way.

Soba

[robyn]

I generally feel people should dress in a manner that makes them comfortable, rather than adhereing to an artificial code, but it often seems as if some people have no sense of propriety at all.

I expect nothing less from the 'burbs.

It's pretty laughable that the restaurant has created an artificial "rural" farm environs outdoors, side-by-side with a faux "urban" fancy-dress restaurant indoors, all essentially on the same premises.

My personal definition of the suburbs is that it's an artificial construct that is supposed to embody the best of both worlds -- but ends up embodying the worst traits of both.

I don't think requiring men to wear long pants is "urban fancy". Would you wear shorts to the French Laundry - or a similar restaurant in a rural area of another country?

My husband and I had a similar experience at Wolfgang Puck's Chinois on Main in Santa Monica (a few blocks from the beach) several years ago. We were just driving around with a friend - and wanted to eat lunch there (without a reservation). I ran in (in a nice coordinated shorts outfit) while the men were driving around the block. The staff said - lunch for 3 - casual - no problem. When the 2 men walked into the restaurant after parking (in shorts - with legs considerably hairier than mine) - they said shorts weren't ok on men. But they obviously wanted us to eat there - and they had a solution - 2 pairs of clean pressed kitchen pants - the standard issue kind with houndstooth checks on them.

My husband and his friend knew how much I wanted to try the restaurant - so they changed into the kitchen pants in the men's room. They were good-humored about it - and so was the restaurant staff. Several apologies about giving me the wrong information when I popped in - and several (excellent) off the menu amuse courses to compensate. Excellent meal - and good time was had by all.

Sometimes you have to roll with the punches. Obviously this writer and the person who accompanied her weren't quite up to that on this occasion (and if they weren't - they should have walked out of the restaurant - after all - they didn't fly halfway around the world to eat there - all they did was travel for an hour or so - people in some parts of the world - like the midwest US - think nothing of driving 300 miles in a day to eat dinner at a friend's house). Robyn

[robyn]

Does reported clumsiness with the quality of the bread served (which even a fierce proponent noted somewhere was better served warmed even then only "relative to itself", which is pretty damning) and how to deal with such basics as, well, salt and pepper indicate a three star restaurant?

I mean: bread; salt and pepper. That's as basic as putting the food on a plate instead of ladling a dollop in the guest's hands or putting the plate on the table instead of the server just dropping it as they walk by.

I've been to a lot of fancy restaurants with no salt and pepper shakers. It's the places like Olive Garden that always come by with the 3 foot tall pepper grinder (fresh ground pepper on your dessert?).

And as someone who lives in the south - and risks death by salt in just about every restaurant in the neighborhood - not to mention the people who shake salt on food for 3 minutes before even tasting it - I would find it refreshing to encounter a chef who doesn't need to drown his food in salt. Robyn

[bloviatrix]

Regarding Andrea Strong's article --- I don't care how stylish your shorts/coulottes are or that they're from a designer. It's just wrong. When you go out to nice restaurant you should dress appropriately. Being in the 'burbs is not an excuse.

(gets off soap-box)

[Bux]

I mean: bread; salt and pepper. That's as basic as putting the food on a plate instead of ladling a dollop in the guest's hands or putting the plate on the table instead of the server just dropping it as they walk by.

I've been to a lot of fancy restaurants with no salt and pepper shakers.

I missed that the first time around, or it just didn't dawn on me that someone would regard putting salt on the table as standard restaurant procedure. In most chef driven, or "auteur" perhaps, restaurants, I would not expect to see salt or pepper on the table. I've not been to Blue Hill at Stone Barns, but I would not expect to find a salt shaker on the dining table.

I thought it a bit strange that Andrea Strong raised the issue in regard to Stone Barns in her review. Granted, she does say it's a pet peeve of hers, but she also has to realize that she sets her personal standards of taste as being outside the norm for fine restaurants. She may have a good point, but she may also leave her opinions on taste and flavor subject to doubt by those who don't expect to see salt shakers on the table. A quick and not very scientific look at her reviews indicates a lust for eating and an appreciation of assertive food. She's easily impressed by very secondary restaurants, yet fails to grasp the importance of some subtler food. I like her enthusiasm for eating out, but wouldn't necessarily look to her opinion on many restaurants that are at the head of my pantheon.

Her summation of Dan Barber as honest and earnest, is a belittling comment about a significant culinary talent in a city with great competing talents. Apparently on the basis of this one meal, (seems to review restaurants after one meal and I didn't find a review of Blue Hill on her site) possibly colored by a misunderstanding of a dress code, I too might find unnecessary, she goes on and say Barber is "dedicated chef who I admire for many reasons. His approach to food and cuisine is rooted in preservation and sustainability. He sees the big picture, connecting food back to the earth and supporting local regional produce. This should not be trivialized. He is preserving our food supply and educating a new generation of chefs to do the same. But the disconnect for me is that you don’t taste the passion he has in his principles on the plate." I've never tasted any chef's passion for principles, but I've certainly tasted Barber's passion for cooking.

[robyn]

I mean: bread; salt and pepper. That's as basic as putting the food on a plate instead of ladling a dollop in the guest's hands or putting the plate on the table instead of the server just dropping it as they walk by.

I've been to a lot of fancy restaurants with no salt and pepper shakers.

I missed that the first time around, or it just didn't dawn on me that someone would regard putting salt on the table as standard restaurant procedure. In most chef driven, or "auteur" perhaps, restaurants, I would not expect to see salt or pepper on the table. I've not been to Blue Hill at Stone Barns, but I would not expect to find a salt shaker on the dining table.

I thought it a bit strange that Andrea Strong raised the issue in regard to Stone Barns in her review. Granted, she does say it's a pet peeve of hers, but she also has to realize that she sets her personal standards of taste as being outside the norm for fine restaurants. She may have a good point, but she may also leave her opinions on taste and flavor subject to doubt by those who don't expect to see salt shakers on the table. A quick and not very scientific look at her reviews indicates a lust for eating and an appreciation of assertive food. She's easily impressed by very secondary restaurants, yet fails to grasp the importance of some subtler food. I like her enthusiasm for eating out, but wouldn't necessarily look to her opinion on many restaurants that are at the head of my pantheon.

Her summation of Dan Barber as honest and earnest, is a belittling comment about a significant culinary talent in a city with great competing talents. Apparently on the basis of this one meal, (seems to review restaurants after one meal and I didn't find a review of Blue Hill on her site) possibly colored by a misunderstanding of a dress code, I too might find unnecessary, she goes on and say Barber is "dedicated chef who I admire for many reasons. His approach to food and cuisine is rooted in preservation and sustainability. He sees the big picture, connecting food back to the earth and supporting local regional produce. This should not be trivialized. He is preserving our food supply and educating a new generation of chefs to do the same. But the disconnect for me is that you don’t taste the passion he has in his principles on the plate." I've never tasted any chef's passion for principles, but I've certainly tasted Barber's passion for cooking.

I don't know who this person Andrea Strong is - except that some people on this site put in links to her site on occasion. And my impression from the links is that she's someone who likes to eat out a lot and write about it. A blog. That's about it. I mean - I'm from Florida - and I haven't been to New York in 3 years - but I've read enough about Blue Hill at Stone Barns (or whatever the name is) this year to know that it is absolutely not a place you'd want to show up at wearing shorts. And all that stuff about - "well they were designer shorts" - just sounds like it was written by someone who spends more time in stores than restaurants.

IOW - I've seen nothing that indicates to me that she's a serious food writer. Robyn

[Mulcahy]

Without turning this thread into a discussion of the merits of Andrea Strong and her work, here is a link to the non-blog articles Andrea Strong has written.

[robyn]

Without turning this thread into a discussion of the merits of Andrea Strong and her work, here is a link to the non-blog articles Andrea Strong has written.

Thanks for the link. I'll agree to your request and not turn this into a debate on the merits of Andrea Strong. Robyn

[tanabutler]

Does anyone have the recipe that was in the NY Times review of Stone Barns, for the tomato water? I was gifted with a LOT of heirloom tomatoes, and would love to attempt it. I had it first at the farm dinner at Frog Hollow Farm. It was amazing. The perfect summer thing.

Thank you.

[madziast]

my husband and i just ate there on Sunday night. we stopped by to eat at the bar, which you can do without reservations, esp. if you are there before 7-8pm. we had 3 savory courses plus dessert (it's a "tasting" and quite pricey but the food really is worked on a lot and by many ppl. it's a big kitchen).

the menu is divided into 4 categories: garden, fish, meat and more meat, sorry meat-eaters, i only paid attention to the first two. you can order 2 courses for $46 (they will adjust the portions to more 'regular size'), 3 for $56 and 4 for $66, dessert extra.

here's what we had:

let's get the liquid stuff out of the way--nice selection of wines by the glass, very interesting wine list, invites lots of exploration, not many 'status' choices, which is always refreshing

Gobelsburg Riesling from Austria ($8.50 for a nice pour, can't remember the vintage)--much fuller and richer than most Austrian rieslings, a nice discovery

feeling rather adventurous, we tried the 2001 Domaine des Chenes Cotes du Roussillon les Magdaleniens Rousanne. quite full, lovely herbal notes a lot of fun for $40

service note--asked about the wine, the bartender said she only knew about the first page (wines by the glass) and that she would have to get the sommelier for any other questions (we offered her a taste of the wine). wine arrived a little warm (hence the glas of reisling to start)

onto food:

amuse was a cucumber-yoghurt soup in a small but tall glass, topped with a dot of dill oil. very nice on the first sip but bland after the dill oil was gone. i'm not one to add salt and lots of salt is hard for me to stomach but this just need something after the dill was gone

green garden gazpacho with avocado salad, green tomato marmalade and yoghurt sorbet--delicious except for some unwelcome sweetnes lurking at the bottom of the bowl

tomato salad with seared watermelon, almonds, zucchini and green tomato sorbet--ingredients arranged all over a large square white plate, beautiful and colorful with red and yellow tomatoes (good if not exactly bursting with flavor) but the seared watermelon was a revelation, teeny tiny zucchini sliced lenghtwise and tiny basil leaves sprinkled all over. refreshing green tomato sorbet sitting proudly right in the middle. but if it's not tossed, is it still a salad? it was quite an arrangement but most ingredients didn't even touch each other (like, say, cobb salad), except for the watermelon and fetus-sized zucchini

eleven greens salad wth 4 beans and creamy eggs--absolute favorite (almost worth the trip alone!), sensationally fresh greens, herbs and beans over warm creamy eggs! there are pistacchios and lemonette chutney there, too. should have had two of these instead of the next dish

peekytoe cannelloni--too cold, too bland, too boring. sea beans did nothing but look pretty, pool of bright green something. big disappointment. for once the small portion (2 short cannelloni) was plenty to go around

braised cod with local chanterelles, braised leeks and tomato-coriander sauce--everything except for the sauce was wonderful:L flaky fish, yummy leeks and chanterelles but the tomato sauce, which enveloped them all was intense in a way that reminded me of pasta with tomato-paste based sauce from my school cafeteria (sorry, dan)

poached alaskan king salmon with stew of peas and artichokes--lots of peas but skimpy on artichoke (not a hearty stew, just peas artichoke and juices), no matter as it was flavored with tarragon. mmmm.... oh, yes, the fish--very nice, med-rare

the dessert was the weekest point -- a square of chocolate bread budding with icecream on top on a huge plate. didn't look too promising, it was dense and dry with thin, too-liquid caramel-ish sauce with cooked pinenuts hidden inside and released once cut.

peach tart--dainty and lacking in flavor, not your rich, juicy, fragrant and sweet country peach tart one might expect in, well, the country. let my not-so-full husband have his way with both

the food took long--it was busy AND the kitchen was far (it would have been faster to walk it across the courtyard). one couple had to ask for bread twice--and that was after the first course.

on the subject of dress code--some ppl were dressed up, others very casual. i think that shorts on the patio would be perfectly fine. when you go, make sure you give yourself extra time to walk around, check out the garden, etc.

it's a beautiful space (and location) but felt a bit cold. the service/interaction with customers too scripted and quite stiff although aiming at casual but proper. i was at the bar not the dining room so the experience was different but the waiters and runners who served our food were from the dining room.

the bar is severly understaffed for a couple of tables and 8 or 10 seats. the bartender often had to go to the kitchen to deal with food issues get wine, etc., leaving the bar unattended for extended periods of time. they really should have someone help on a busy night. Julian Niccolini of the Four Seasons restaurant was dining at the bar and his companion sent a dish back, i think it was undercooked meat. the bartender went to the kitchen and waited until it was done, then brought it back. meanwhile, good luck getting a drink, as those waiting for a table discovered.

the atmosphere & staff need to settle. i didn't feel comfortable or pampered. instead, most of the time i felt like i was expected to swoon over everything and fall to my knees at the end. i prefer to enjoy my food, rather than worship at the temple of cuisine. overall, it felt a bit pretentious, trying too hard, too precious, too striving for picture-perfect experience. it was pleasant but cold. i hope it develops more of a soul soon.

for us, it was enjoyable but not spectacular. with the exception of the salad (so much going on there but the eggs!!), i most enjoyed the simpler preparations (salmon with beas and artichoke, cod minus the sauce), some really great ingredients, pretty much left alone. definitely better than any meal we've ever had at blue hill in nyc (only about 4 or 5)--probably because the food was not as overwrought as it can be at the original, esp. the last time we ate there, which was right before they closed, Feb. or March.

i think food at nyc's blue hill is too intellectualized, too calculated. it doesn't move me, there is no transporting quality to it. but if the restaurant at stone barns were miraculously lifted and dropped in the city, i would go back more often that i go the original blue hill.

phew! hope this is not as long as bruni's review!

[WHS]

We came over from New Hampshire last Saturday to visit our friends in Cortlandt Manor. We admired their 8-car garage (Lexus, Corvette, giant pickup, vintage Plymouth, Harley V-rod, etc), spent the afternoon at Kykuit, and were taken to dinner at BH@SB. Since it was impossible to get a reservation, we got there at 5:30 to secure 4 seats at the bar. We had the 4 course menu and rolled out around 11:00. With cocktails, 3 bottles of wine, desserts, cheese plate and after-dinner drinks, the bill came to $950. (I peeked.)

Like madziast, we had the tomato salad. Being later in the month, the tomatoes were at their peak. 11 greens salad was great--best part was the eggs rolled in pistachios. I had a perfect piece of sea bass, followed by a pig plate (a chop, a hunk of bacon and a slice of sausage--hog heaven!), and the duck. The oenophile who was our host meanwhile was hunkered down with the sommelier ordering $200 bottles of Italian red so the duck course will have to remain vague. My dining companions also loved the poached chicken breast--said it was the essence of that bird. We had raspberry souffles for dessert--how do they get them on the table in 10 minutes?

Let's face it--this is not like eating at some quaint little place in the country. This is a restaurant catering to a rich suburb of New York City with highly stylized, highly conceptualized food and presentation. There are very few places in the world that could support an effort on this level. BTW, I went back the next day to see how they raised the pigs. They were rooting around in the mud and looked very happy.

[oakapple]

Since it was impossible to get a reservation, we got there at 5:30 to secure 4 seats at the bar.  We had the 4 course menu and rolled out around 11:00.

I had called & asked about bar dining, and they told me only snacks are served at the bar. Obviously this was misinformation, or perhaps they misunderstood me. Do they have actual tables near the bar, or did you sit on stools at the bar itself?

Edited August 25, 2004 by oakapple (log)

[WHS]

I had called & asked about bar dining, and they told me only snacks are served at the bar. Obviously this was misinformation, or perhaps they misunderstood me. Do they have actual tables near the bar, or did you sit on stools at the bar itself?

You can get the full dining room menu at the bar, seated on stools. There is a lounge area, but there is no food service there.

[SobaAddict70]

Would it be too much of a stretch to call it "Chez Panisse East"?

Soba

[bluecabochon]

I had dinner here on Saturday with oakapple. We made a day of Sleepy Hollow, starting at Philipsburg Manor, Kykuit and then Blue Hill at Stone Barns. We had hoped to be able to walk around the grounds at Stone Barns but as it was getting late and it had been a warm day, contented ourselves with what we saw as we drove up by taxi and could see from the entrance - rolling hills with horses, green fields, barns and the impressive Norman-style stone barns that house the restaurant, kitchen, cafe and store.

We took Metro-North, which cost $14 per person RT to Tarrytown. The trip took 37 minutes, but depending on which train you take , it can also take 50 minutes. It was pleasant and there were plenty of cabs available at the station ready to take us wherever we wanted to go.

It is possible to find a good deal online for combined train travel and admission to Kykuit - we discovered this later. There is a website called hudsonvalley.org that has a lot of pertinent information about the area and travel tips. The cabs we took cost $5 to Philpsburg Manor, $9 to Stone Barns from there and $12 back to the train station from the restaurant, so it is doable without a car. We shared the ride back to the station after dinner with a couple who had traveled from Brooklyn just to eat there - 2 hours each way. They got their 5:00 reservation the day before, online.

As we had no reservation, we were hoping to walk in and eat at the bar for an early dinner, which we had no trouble doing. Mindful of Andrea Strong's friend's experience, oakapple wore long pants rather than the shorts that would have been more sensible on that hot day. We arrived at around 5:30. There is a "door garden" on the left before you enter the courtyard, full of flowers, herbs and lettuces; one is encouraged to "snack". We toured the garden after dinner and recognized flowers that graced the bar area as well as lettuce in our salads.

The stone buildings are beautifully regal, with a turreted silo adding medieval ambience. The entrance, in the right next to an outdoor cafe sporting a surprisingly few number of tables (which was closed) is discreet. The interior, described here already, is masculine in feel; cream walls, earth tones, natural wood textures, ebony wood floors and accents. It has been carefully designed - the plates and accessories echo the decor in ways that are very satisfying visually.

We peeked into the dining room, which looked spacious and comfortable, with terrace beyond with seating that would be lovely on a cooler night.

The bartender, Tina, was very knowledgable and capable, taking food and beverage orders, running to the kitchen, serving drinks and generally looking after everyone. There was a trio and another couple at the bar already; during our meal another couple appeared, for a total of 9 people dining at a bar with maybe 12 spots available during our two-hour stay. Our dishes were brought to the bar by black-clad young servers, in timely manner, although a diner next to us complained to Tina about the delay in serving their second course.

We neglected to ask for a copy of the menu and the one posted online is not exactly the same as ours (asparagus was replaced by tomatoes as the featured vegetable) so I am regrettably, unable to recall precisely what was in each dish, but we had the 3-course meal, which was superb. I chose a salad with the amazing poached egg dredged in nuts, with pancetta, and oakapple had the tomato and seared watermelon with tomato sorbet, for the first course. Mine was superb, with the egg the star of the meal. The tomato salad, visually gorgeous with tomatoes ranging from gold to orange, red and green, was delicious, the watermelon a surprising addition. The tomato sorbet was also a delight. I was glad to have tried this unusual salad with the last of the summer tomatoes.

Oh, there was an amuse of sweet, finely pureed corn soup, served in a tiny, tall glass.

For the second course, we both had crabmeat that was placed between paper-thin slices of yellow squash. There were four of them per plate, and they were nestled amid the most tender of pale green peas? beans? I'm frustrated that I don't know exactly what they were. Delicious and surprisingly filling.

For the third course, oakapple chose the braised bacon and roast pig, which I did not taste, but was told was excellent; I had the crescent duck breast with asian greens and a stew of carrots and toasted spices. The duck was perfectly moist and melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the carrots were perfectly prepared, sweet and that word again, tender. The ingredients in these dishes are few but are presented beautifully and purely, to their best advantage. What a contrast to our meal at the Bridge Cafe the night before, where potentially subtle cucumber and avocado soup was destroyed by Tabasco sauce(?).

Featured drinks included a mojito,a cucumber martini and their "Non-Bloody Mary", which we watched being prepared. It was fun sitting at the bar and we got to watch Tina in action and see what others were eating and drinking. I don't recommend it for a large group, but for two, or three seated at a corner so all can talk comfortably, it's a great way to have an impromptu meal at this exclusive spot.

We passed up desserts and coffee this time as we were already quite sated.

I almost forgot to mention the buttery biscuits that were shaped like the pages of an open book. I had a few too many of these, but it was worth the carbs and fat from the sweet, fresh butter. They were quite generous with them and they arrived warm, in a rustic-looking wire basket that chimed with the natural surroundings.

I would love to go back later in the year to sample seasonal root vegetable and game offerings that I imagine would be a celebration of the harvest like no other.

Tina told us that as soon as the restaurant closed that evening, they would be setting up for a wedding celebration the following day. The restaurant was bought for the whole day, which turned out to be cloudy, which is a shame, but a wedding reception at Stone Barns - what a dream setting that must have been!

[oakapple]

Bluecabochon said most of what I'd have put in my review, so I'll just touch on a few points.

The New York Times had an article a few weeks ago about the ascent of bar dining. As bluecabochon mentioned, for parties of two or three it's really no less comfortable than table dining, and it has the advantage that you can just show up any day, without a reservation. The bar at BHSB has obviously been designed with this in mind, as it is a much wider surface than the typical bar. The bar stools have backs, so they are comfortable to sit in for a long meal. Everyone who sat there had come to dine at the bar. There is also a separate lounge with sofa seating nearby, and people with reservations who want a pre-dinner cocktail seem to prefer that area.

The menu at BHSB offers a choice of two, three, or four courses for $46, $56, or $66. Our server, Tina, who is also the bartender, explained that if you choose two or three courses, the kitchen adjusts the portion sizes accordingly, so you're getting a full meal no matter which option you choose. I like the fact that there are no supplements for the more expensive dishes. It's the same price, no matter what you order.

The menu is structured in four categories, with generally four choices per category. The example posted on the BHSB website, dating from early spring, is divided as: "Farm Eggs," "From the Sea," "From the Pastures," and "Hudson Valley Pastures." On the night we were there, the first two were "Tomatoes and "More Tomatoes," the latter being seafood dishes with tomato accents. This is consistent with Frank Bruni's observation that when BHSB decides a vegetable is in season, they don't go half-way. My tomato appetizer even included a small helping of tomato sorbet.

We had the three-course meal, and my entrée was the Braised Bacon and Roasted Pig. This dish consisted of three separate preparations of pig that my limited food vocabulary doesn't permit me to describe, but they were all excellent. (One of the reviews mentioned that they slaughter two pigs a week.) Earlier in the evening, I noticed that another diner had ordered the same, but he got a larger portion than I did. Sure enough, Tina mentioned that they'd ordered two courses, rather than three.

I had a taste of bluecabochon's poached egg with hazelnuts, sesame seeds, and homemade pancetta. This must be BHSB's signature appetizer. (Well, they don't call anything an appetizer, but that's in effect what it is.) Every reviewer has mentioned it. It's out-of-this-world. My tomato app was acceptable, but it's not what I'll remember about the meal.

It's an excursion to get out to BHSB, but well worth it.

Edited September 9, 2004 by oakapple (log)

[Stone]

I just returned from a good, but disappointing meal at Stone Barns. Service, service, service.

The place is unbelievable. An incredibly beautiful stone building surrounded by silos, stone walls, and fields. Gorgeous fall day. Lovely.

There were seven of us for Sunday brunch. I was surprised at how limited the menu was. Three app choices, three entrees, and three desserts for $42. Very limited. There was a harvest festival going on that day which may have contributed to the limited selection and the slow service.

The app choices were a salad with pistacio and apricots; cod brandade with salad and toasted almonds, and mushrooms on a sweet polenta cake (I can't remember what this was actually called).

I had the cod, which was terrific. Creamy mashed potato with bits of cod mixed in. Great texture, with the fish offering a nice flavoring without being overpowering. Fresh herby greens and toasted almonds on top. The mushroom/polenta option was good, but not great. Everyone found the polenta overly sweet. And the servings for our table had meager portionss of mushroom compared to what I noticed on other tables. The salad was good, but didn't seem anything special. People noticed a dearth of apricots.

The entree choices were poached salmons with assorted beans, roasted lamb with eggplant and an English breakfast sausage with creamy eggs. I ordered the sausage, and it was excellent. The homemade sausages were amazing. Incredibly fresh and plump with a terrificly smooth texture that I don't notice in sausage. The creamy eggs were very different. Much like a creamed egg and sweet corn soup, flavored with eggs and chives. There wasnt much of it with the sausage, but I really liked it.

The salmos was very well cooked, but I didn't think it was anything special, same with the lamb. We also ordered a separate plate of the creamy eggs for everyone to try. This plate was overly salted.

For dessert, I had the chocolate bread pudding with caramel ice cream. The ice cream was terrific, with a great caramel flavor that wasn't too rich. The bread pudding was basically a heavy chocolate cake. nothing special.

The food was all good, but not great. And I thought the portions were a little small for the price. They weren't tasting menu size, but not entree size either.

The service for the afternoon was very slow. It took a long time for our first course to come out. We ordered a basket of fresh bread ($8), that we had to ask for three times. The last time, our server told us that the bread was being warmed, but when it finally came out it was room temperature. They never brought butter. Service of coffee etc., was sloppy, with lots of dripps and sloshes.

Another table stopped by to say hello on their early exit from the restaurant. After 1.5 hours, they had been served only one course and gave up.

Two drinks were really the highlight of the meal. The purple basil mojito was wonderful, with a different and spicy take on the standard drink. And the not-bloody mary was great. Made with vodka, tomoto water and small hints of chili (habanero), it was a very fresh and nice change from the usual bloody.

[Curlz]

Stone lets BH@SB off the hook a little more than I would with regard to this morning's brunch; when you're booking reservations a month out, I don't what special event is taking place on the grounds--those with the reservations in the restaurant deserve the same great food and service that you would offer any other day! I do agree with all of his comments about the place itself--it's really stunning, and worth the (very short from NYC and NNJ) drive on a beautiful day. I was also surprised by the short list of choices, esp because I hadn't noticed the brunch menu on their web site (and on checking just now, still don't see it). Then again, I had no trouble making my three choices rather quickly, so I can't complain too much! One person at our table did end up ordering off of the children's menu b/c there are a lot of foods that she doesn't eat, but they pleasantly accommodated her substitution (and charged her the full $42).

You've heard about the polenta/mushroom dish, although I didn't realize that other diners were getting more mushrooms. Mine was also past room temp and leaning towards being on the cool side. The cod brandade was definitely the winner on the first course.

I thought the lamb was a wonderful, simple dish. The flavor of the meat was so pure, it was perfectly cooked, and I thought the sauce was flavorful without being overpowering. The eggplant slices and pieces of red and yellow peppers were perfectly roasted, and the chives were an excellent addition.

Considering that I kindly shared a solid taste of it , Stone neglected to mention the OTHER dessert on the table, which everyone agreed was the winner--the mixed berry coupe, which was served in a rocks glass--with the berries over an olive oil cake and the addition of some vanilla creme. An excellent carmely crisp with sesame seeds was a fantastic bonus.

All in all, I thought the food was very good, but the service was definitely lacking both in the dining room and in the kitchen. If they need some extra staff, they ought to get hiring for the line; the room wasn't completely full when we were seated, and if they can't fully handle that many people, I wonder what they do when the place is maxed out. I'd be curious to go back up there for dinner and/or go for lunch (vs. brunch) on a day when they weren't having a festival, but stick to my earlier comments--that's no excuse.

Edit: Can't believe that I didn't mention the purple basil mojito; I had read about it and ordered it today...it was FABULOUS. What a great way to incorporate the mint flavor with a twist!! And it was gorgeous in the glass, as well.

I also needed to tsk tsk about the state of the ladies room; by 3pm, there were no paper towels left and the place was a mess. Another example of lack of staff/service, imho.

Edited October 11, 2004 by Curlz (log)