The Best Paella in Valencia?

[docsconz]

Here is a fine video from the New York Times on the making of paella at L'Alter in Picassent, Spain outside of the city of Valencia and here is the accompanying article.

In Valencia you find the showy paella places, the ones visited by Hemingway and most tourists. In Picassent you find a restaurant called L'Alter, where Pep Crespo , the 28-year-old grandson of the founder, presides over the kitchen. His method of paella making is traditional, precise, special: he cooks it over orangewood, as it has been cooked for centuries.

I have no doubt that this is an outstanding paella, but the best, especially from a non-native is quite a strong claim. Whether or not one agrees, the video is a worthwhile saliva-producing, stomach rumbling treat.

In the article Bittman claims that the best paellas are served in the middle of the table with everyone sharing it from the pan. Any thoughts on that?

[Kerry Beal]

Great video. Just give me one of those wooden spoons and I'd be happy to fight anyone for my share.

[Rogelio]

Indeed that's a proper Paella Valenciana, I don't know if it's the best because I haven't tried it, but it's for sure an authentic one. People claim that the best of the proper paellas valecianas are the ones from Levante in Benisanó. I for myself have had the best ones in private houses.

But if I'm being asked what's the best rice on paella (not the best paella), arroz con cosas, as Bittman points, it is the arroz con conejo y caracoles (with rabbit and snails) over vine branches in Casa Paco in Pinoso, that's the rice upgraded to delicatessen. You have to try it to believe it.

[Mar Calpena]

Actually, paellas were originally served in the middle of the table, as they were peasant food that was often produced right by the orchard where those lovely vegetables came from (and those orange branches too). The other day I saw a tv show about Fallas (which is Valencia's best known celebration) and the host went to a small town in the region where paella was eaten just like this, from a common plate, and where Fallas are also celebrated. He looked somewhat shocked, and the people eating told him it was the best way to enjoy it, and that it encourages conversation and community.

As for the proper way to prepare paella, there are always heated debates about what it should or should not have, to the point there's even a joke about it. I don't know where I read it, but it sure made me laugh:

Two men need to cross a dark, forbidding forest. They have no compass, and wild animals are rumored to wander around the area. Their main concern, though, is not getting lost in the wilderness.

The first one says "I'll take a rifle with me, so that if we have to face some danger we can always shoot. Maybe someone will hear us, or maybe we'll hunt something to eat."

The second one says: "I'll take a camping stove, a paella pan, some rice, vegetables, water, oil and meat."

The first one replies: "Are you so scared of starving to carry all this with you?"

The second one replies: No! It's just that iif we get lost, I'll start preparing a paella and in five seconds flat there'll be twenty idiots peeping over my shoulder and telling me that IS NOT the proper way to do it."

[docsconz]

Actually, paellas were originally served in the middle of the table, as they were peasant food that was often produced right by the orchard where those lovely vegetables came from (and those orange branches too). The other day I saw a tv show about Fallas (which is Valencia's best known celebration) and the host went to a small town in the region where paella was eaten just like this, from a common plate, and where Fallas are also celebrated. He looked somewhat shocked, and the people eating told him it was the best way to enjoy it, and that it encourages conversation and community.

As for the proper way to prepare paella, there are always heated debates about what it should or should not have, to the point there's even a joke about it. I don't know where I read it, but it sure made me laugh:

Two men need to cross a dark, forbidding forest. They have no compass, and wild animals are rumored to wander around the area. Their main concern, though, is not getting lost in the wilderness.

The first one says "I'll take a rifle with me, so that if we have to face some danger we  can always shoot. Maybe someone will hear us, or maybe we'll hunt something to eat."

The second one says: "I'll take a camping stove, a paella pan, some rice, vegetables, water, oil and meat."

The first one replies: "Are you so scared of starving to carry all this with you?"

The second one replies: No! It's just that iif we get lost, I'll start preparing a paella and in five seconds flat there'll be twenty idiots peeping over my shoulder and telling me that IS NOT the proper way to do it."

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I like it!

I am looking forward to having paellas at the source. Whether or not any particular way is the "proper" way, is of not so much concern to me. The greater concern is how delicious it is! I had a chance to eat some paellas and other rice dishes in California this past November at The Spain and the World Table conference including some prepared by Rafael Vidal of Levante in Benisano'. They were delicious. It will be interesting to see if I can pick up on any differences eating paella at Levante itself.