Bon Appétit 2004 November Digest – The Thanksgiving Issue It’s that time of year for more ads and inserts. I had to rip out three stiff car ad inserts alone not to mention a fistful of subscription postcards. Turn immediately to page 178 for an article with some incredibly beautiful photographs by Pornchai Mittoongtare. Absolutely stunning work! Contributors in this issue: One of my favorite Southern writers (next to Mayhaw Man), Pulitzer-Prize winning author Rick Bragg (do not pass up his story!), photographer Victoria Pearson, FoodTV’s Tyler Florence, author Jennifer Moses and Ray Isle, the managing editor of “Wine and Spirits” Magazine. Starters – “Quick Bites from the World of Bon Appétit” by Hugh Garvey A recipe for a Cranberry Daiquiri from Gramercy Tavern in NYC. Artisanal Honey is the new thing: Sunflower Honey, Hawaii White Honey, Avocado Honey, Sage Honey. Harold McGee’s “On Food and Cooking” is being updated after 20 years. There are six tips from the book listed. Palm Springs: Hugh lists some “don’t miss” stops in the town. A date shake form Hadley Orchards, furniture stores Studio One 11 & Room Service, Trina Turk boutique, burgers from Tyler’s, swimming at Korakia Pensione, margaritas at El Mirasol, poolside cocktails at the Viceroy Palm Springs and dining in the hotel’s Citron restaurant. Bottled soda with a Thanksgiving theme: From Jones Soda, Co. (www.jonessoda.com) novelty drinks in unique flavors – Turkey & Gravy, Cranberry and Potato to name a few. All proceeds benefit Toys for Tots. Chicago Gastropubs are booming: The Hopleaf Bar, Grace O’Malley’s and Rockit Bar & Grill. R.S.V.P. – “Reader’s Favorite Restaurant Recipes” Recipes: “Shrimp Po’Boys” (Paul’s Pirogue- Carencro, Louisiana), “Chocolate Layer Cake” (Blue Smoke – Manhattan), “Pasta with Tomatoes, Smoked Bacon and Arugula” (Aperto – San Francisco), “Beef Stew with Cloves, Oranges and Tomato” (La Garrigue – Edinburgh, Scotland), “Blueberry-Cinnamon Pie” (Pie in the Sky Bakery – Cape Neddick, Maine), “Mac and Cheese with Bacon, Shiitake Mushrooms and Corn” (Signatures – Washington, D.C.), “Lavender and Honey Crème Brûlée” (The Girl and the Fig – Petaluma, CA), “Espresso-and-Spice-Rubbed Steaks and Red Peppers and Caramelized Onions” (McCrady’s Restaurant – Charleston, SC), “Banana Pudding” (Jaan – Beverly Hills), “English Muffins” (Delmonico Steakhouse – Las Vegas), “Scallops in Brandy Cream Sauce” (Star Fish Grill – Brunswick, Maine) Cooking Class – “The Raw & the Cooked” by Jeanne Thiel Kelley Jeanne discusses the difference in the varied types of turkeys that are available. Then she shows some prep tips, discusses whether to brine or not, to stuff or not and how to tell when it is done. After that she shows how to carve the finished turkey and how to store the leftovers properly. Kitchen Tools of the Trade – “Need Your Space?” by Dorie Greenspan Dorie takes a look at countertop convection ovens. Entertaining Made Easy - “Green Party” by Rozanne Gold It’s a turkey-free vegetarian Thanksgiving menu for eight. Recipes: “Garlic-Fennel Bisque”, “Butternut Squash and Mushroom Lasagna”, “Sautéed Bell Peppers with Golden Raisins and Arugula” A small side bar suggests some vegetarian hors d’oeuvres. Wine & Spirits – “The Holiday White Line-Up” by Ray Isle Ray suggests some domestic and international whites to compliment the holiday dinner. His picks- New World Rieslings: Chateau Ste. Michelle 2003 Johannisberg Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington State, $8 Bonny Doon Vineyard 2003 Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, $10 Villa Maria 2003 Private Bin Riesling, Marlborough, $13 Annie’s Lane 2003 Riesling, Clare Valley, $14 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2003 Dry Riesling, $15 Argentine Malbec: Doña Paula 2002 Los Cardos Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, $8 Trapiche 2002 Oak Cask Malbec, Mendoza, $9 Viña Cobos 2002 El Felino Malbec, Upper River Region, Mendoza, $13 Bodega Weinert 1999 Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, $15 Bodega Catena Zapata 2002 Catena Malbec, $22 A side article displays fashion designer Marc Jacobs’ “chunky” glassware. Another article suggests an herbal digestif as an after dinner drink: Denmark’s Gammel Dansk $30, Italy’s Fernet-Branca $30, Germany’s Underberg $5 for a 3-pack of portion sized drinks and Unicum Zwack from Hungary $26. Tasting Panel on California Rhônes: Delicato Family Vineyards 2003 Shiraz, California $7 Echelon Vineyards 2001 Syrah, Esperanze Vineyard, Clarksburg $11 Zaca Mesa Winery 2001 Z Cuvée, Santa Ynez Valley $16 Wild Horse Winery & Vineyards 2001 Syrah, Paso Robles $18 Terre Rouge 2001 Mourvèdre, Sierra Foothills $22 Buoncristiani 2001 Syrah Artistico, Napa Valley $40 At the Market – “Persimmons” by Monica Parcell, Recipes by Kristine Kidd This is the season of Persimmons and Monica tells you all about them including the different varieties. A side bar informs you how to tell if it’s ripe or not. Recipes: “Rice Pudding with Persimmons and Dried Cranberries”, “Butter Lettuce, Persimmon, Feta and Hazelnut Salad”, “Persimmon Sundaes”, “Persimmon Salsa” People and Places – “Daddy Time” by Tyler Florence Making your own turkey for Thanksgiving is a rite of passage, going from a holiday at Grandma’s house to your house. Tyler recalls the Thanksgiving when the torch was passed for him. There’s a sort-of-recipe for “Tyler’s Maple-Roasted Turkey”. Traveling with Taste – “Back to the Bayou” by Rick Bragg Rick loved a Cajun woman once. Returning to the Bayou brings back memories of her and he tries to eat to forget. It’s Southern prose at its best. Kitchen Favorites – “Leftovers Done Right” by Rick Rogers Rick offers up some bold suggestions for Turkey leftovers. Recipes: “Turkey Wraps with Curry-Chutney Mayonnaise and Peanuts”, “Gratin of Penne, Turkey and Mushrooms”, “Stacked Enchiladas with Turkey and Chipotle Beans”, “Barbecue Turkey Sandwiches”, “Asian Turkey-Noodle Soup with Ginger and Chiles” Restaurants – Hot Seat – Chef Carl Hemaux of Bonsoir Clara in Brussels. Restaurants Top Tables – “The Restaurant Reporter” by Tanya Wenman Steel Some suggestions for dining out on Thanksgiving - Miami: Prime One Twelve; Azul – Chef Michelle Bernstein Chicago: Rohini Dey’s Vermilion – Chef Maneet Chauhan; Bistro 110 – Chef Dominique Tougne Houston & Dallas : Aries – Scott Tycer (Houston); Susie Priore’s Iris – Chef Russell Hodges (Dallas) Seattle: Tom Douglas’ Lola – Chef Marc Van Mulken; Kerry Sear’s Cascadia Boston: Spire – Chef Gabriel Frasca; Harvest – Chef Keith Pooler Los Angeles: Patina in the Disney Concert Hall; Chris Schaefer’s Zax – Chef Sara Levine New Orleans: Ralph’s on the Park – Chef Gerard Maras; Susan Spicer’s Bayona - New York: Charlie Palmer’s Aureole – Chef Dante Boccuzzi; Five Points – Chef Marc Meyer Washington, D.C.: Jeffrey and Sallie Buben’s Vidalia; Morou Ouattara’s Signatures San Francisco: Bradley Ogden’s One Market – Chef Adrian Hoffman; Moose’s – Chef Norgen Jacobson Restaurants : Going Out – “Where to Eat in D.C.” by Jennifer Moses Jennifer recommends Red Sage, Rosa Mexicano, Jaleo, The Oceaniare, Ristorante Tosca, Zola, Ceiba, Le Paradou Bon Vivant – “What’s New. What’s Hot. What’s Good.” By Laurie Glenn Buckle Thanksgiving dinnerware (brown is a good thing?) & flatware from Armani Casa Beverly Hills Gadget Geek alert: R.P.M. blender by L’Equip with a real tachometer in the base – www.lequip.com Horn, Bone and Shell is “in”. Burnished horn runner and citrine-dyed bone servers from Bo Danica. A beautiful white pumpkin-shaped tureen - www.crateandbarrel.com A pink and black apple-patterned tote – www.rafe.com Unusual preserves: Sour Cherry and Lemon Balm Preserves, Peppered Black Mission Fig Preserves, Spiced Quince Preserves – www.palettefinefoods.com Thomas Keller macaroons in chocolate, vanilla and caramel. www.bouchonbakery.com Crystal napkin rings & reversible quilted silk napkins. www.homejameseasthampton.com A menu organizer with a “menu” theme. www.uncommongoods.com A spa party in a box – French Bulldog Café Kit. www.jaquabeauty.com New Greek olive oils made from Koroneiki olives. www.terramedi.com A basket of fresh mushrooms…picked to order. Available kind varies. www.mackenzieltd.com “Thanksgiving: For Those of Us Who Love to Cook” What follows is a 50-page section containing five Thanksgiving menus, ranging from big to intimate. “Pilgrim’s Progress” by Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier It’s a traditional New England Thanksgiving with a contemporary outlook. Recipes: “Prosciutto with Persimmons”, “Johnnycakes with Peekytoe Crabs”, “Herb-Brined Turkey with Pear Gravy” (Cover Recipe), “Boston Brown Bread Stuffing with Bacon and Tarragon”, “Yukon Gold Potato and Wild Mushroom Gratin”, “Trio of Winter Greens”, “Roasted Yam Puree with Brown Butter”, “Cranberry Compote with Ginger and Molasses”, “Caramel-Pumpkin Pie with Mincemeat Ice Cream”, “Mincemeat Ice Cream” A side bar gives prep tips and another suggest wine pairings. “Midwestern Modern” by Mara Papatheodorou & Kathie O’Kennedy A Heartland Thanksgiving with yet another modern twist. Recipes: “Shirmp Mousse Crostini with Dill”, “Cinnamon-Spiced Nuts with Cayenne”, “Thyme-Roasted Turkey with Fresh Thyme Gravy”, “Chestnut-and-Cranberry Cornbread Stuffing”, “Mixed Green and Fresh Herb Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette”, “Port-Glazed Onions and Shallots”, “Brussels-Sprout Chiffonade with Poppy Seeds”, “Sweet Potato Torte”, “Classic Tarte Tatin” “Small & Sophisticated” by Betty Rosbottom Wonderful Photos by Pornchai Mittoongtare!! Cut them out and frame them as artwork or food porn! It’s a cozy and intimate Thanksgiving dinner for four. A couple side bars suggest wine pairings. Recipes: “”Cranberry Kir Royale”, “Foi Gras-Stuffed Dates”, “Celery Bisque with Stilton Toasts”, “Stilton Toasts”, “Turkey Breast Roulade with Crimini, Porcini and Pancetta”, “Orange-Glazed Carrot Ribbons”, “Creamy Mashed Potatoes with Goat Cheese and Fresh Sage”, “Haricots Verts, Roasted Fennel and Shallots”, “Cranberry-Ginger Chutney”, “Frozen Pumpkin Mousse with Walnut-Toffee Crunch” “Southern Comforts” by Frank Brigtsen It’s a sassy Southern Thanksgiving with a do-ahead menu that’s gives new meaning to the “Big Easy”. Recipes: “Baked Oysters with Bacon and Leeks”, “Gumbo Z’Herbes with Perfect Rice”, “Perfect Rice”, “Roast Turkey with Apple Cider Pan Gravy”, “Andouille Cornbread Dressing”, “Green Onion-Jalapeño Cornbread”, “Roasted Autumn Vegetables”, “Black Eyed Pea Succotash with Creole Mustard Vinaigrette”, “Mirliton Relish”, Coconut-Sweet Potato Cheesecake” “Holiday on the Grill” by Bruce Aidells and Nancy Oakes It’s Thanksgiving with a smoky Western spin. A side bar suggests wine pairings. Recipes: “Butter Lettuce with Goat Cheese Green Goddess Dressing”, “Grilled Tea-Brined Turkey with Tea-and-Lemon Gravy”, “Tea-and-Lemon Gravy”, “Chicken-Apple Sausage and Fresh Fennel Stuffing”, “Cranberry and Red-Grape Relish”, “Mashed Potatoes and Turnips with Roasted-Pear Puree”, “Butternut Squash with Tangerine and Sage Glaze”, “Caramelized Spiced Carrots”, “Broccoli Rabe with Melted Garlic”, “Pumpkin-Custard Profiteroles with Maple Caramel” “Fast Easy Fresh: Quick Dishes for Every-Night Cooking” by the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen Recipes: “Shrimp with Fennel, Dill and Feta”, “Baby Eggplant, Olive and Herb-Cheese Frittata”, “Pork Rib Chops with Sautéed Apples and Star Anise”, “Tamarind-Honey Lamb Kebabs on Mashed Yams”, “Molasses-and-Spice Pumpkin Pie”, “Dark Chocolate Mousse with Sugared Kumquats”, “Skirt Steak with Poblano Rajas and Zucchini”, “Smoked Salmon and Cucumber Ribbon Salad with Caraway” There’s a side bar with a recipe for Ginger-Curry Aioli, another with a tip on how to roast a pepper, another on how to find the best peppers and another with a short list of new products on the market. “Readers’ Timesaving Recipes” From Polly Tafrate of South Salem, New York: “Banana-Black Bean Empanadas”, “Portuguese Green Soup”, “Escarole Soup with Pasta and Meatballs”, “Old-Fashioned Gingerbread with Molasses Whipped Cream” From Larry Leichtman of Phoenix, Arizona: “Liver and Blue Cheese Pâté”, “Chocolate-Raspberry Cakes” Feedback – End page Q & A with Actress Hope Davis edited for clarification
