Bon Appetít Magazine Digest Januray 2005 - “Best of the Year (2004): What’s Hot, What’s Not and What’s Next” I think the writers/editors of this magazine must read eGullet. Throughout this issue, a lot of their “What’s Hot” and “What’s Next” topics have been discussed on eGullet for the past year or two, from the launch of Alinea to Spain as the next hot cuisine country to Smoked Paprika and everything inbetween. Coincidence? You be the judge and read it for yourself. Contributors this issue: Chef and FoodTV personality Cat Cora, Restraunteur Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Chefs and Authors Nancy Oakes and Bruce Aidells and James Beard Award-winning Chef Eric Ripert. As always, it’s a skinny issue, folks. There is a very interesting recipe for a chocolate layer cake with ginger, wasabi(!) and sesame seeds that looks decadent (“Black Pearl Layer Cake”). Starters – “Quick Bites from the World of Bon Appetít” by Hugh Garvey What’s Hot: Santoku knives (eGullet was ahead of the curve on this one). Kyocera has a pink handled white knife where $5 of the purchase price goes towards breast cancer research. Hyper-Specialized Restaurants – Rice to Riches in NYC that only serves rice pudding; The Stand in L.A. that only serves hot dogs; Sample Conservas in Brooklyn that serves just canned Spanish tapas; Sugar in Chicago that only serves dessert. Smoked Food – fish, seafood, vegetables and fruit and home stove-top smokers as well as cookbooks on smoking. Soda for Grown-ups – Again, eG is ahead of the curve on this…all-natural, preservative-free soft drinks for the adult palate, some made with cane sugar. Brands like Fizzy Lizzy (www.fizzylizzy.com), Gus (www.drinkgus.com), Izze (www.izze.com), Steaz Green Tea Soda (www.steazsoda.com), Fentimans (www.fentimans.com) and Boylan’s. Food Blogs – Hmmm...eGullet seems to be missing from their list. They list www.grocerylists.org (where do all those old grocery lists go?), www.sautewednesday.com (Bay area foodie site), www.sliceny.com (NY pizza blog), www.thefoodsection.com (NY site with “all the news that’s fit to eat”), www.vinography.com (San Francisco wine geek site) What’s Not – Beds in restaurants(!), the trend towards smaller hotel rooms, gimmicky gadgets that do what other more versatile tools do, Giant Buddhas in restaurant décor. What’s Next – eGullet leads the crowd again…ta-da…La Caja China! “Better Eating through Circuitry” by using technology to order a bottle of wine, find directions & reviews, make reservations and get a recipe while shopping. 5 Chefs to Watch – April Bloomfield, Homaro Cantu, Linton Hopkins, Matthew Zappoli and Eric Ziebold R.S.V.P. – Readers’ Favorite Restaurant Recipes Recipes: (Cover Recipe) “Toffee Crunch Caramel Cheesecake” (Zoom – Park City, Utah), “Mixed Wild Mushroom Soup” (Ritz – Newport, NJ), “Honeydew Bellini” (Babbo – NY), “Salmon with Skirlie Mash and Dill Cream Sauce” (Crannog – Ft. William, Scotland), “Croque-Monsieur” (Tartine Bakery – San Francisco), “Mussels in Sweet and Spicy Basil Sauce” (Henry’s – Boca Raton, Florida), “Pecan Cinnamon Buns” (The Pineapple Inn – Nantucket Island) “Table Manners” by Laurie Glenn Buckle Laurie does a little Q&A with Barney’s New York Creative Director, Simon Doonan, to find out what’s out and what’s going to be in. At the Market – “Sweet Tarts” by Monica Parcell, with recipes by Cat Cora Intriguing new vinegars are adding a new dimension of flavor in the kitchen: Banyuls (oak-aged wine vinegar), Fig Balsamic and Saba (“mosto cotto” – cooked grape juice vinegar) Recipes: “Fig Balsamic-Glazed Duck with Pearl Onion and Pear Hash”, “Lamb Chops with Feta and Banyuls-Cherry Sauce”, “Raspberries with Saba Sabayon” Wine & Spirits – “My Year in the Drink” by Alan Richman Alan finds 10 reasons to raise a glass with gusto. 1) Babbo’s “Honeydew Bellini” (see the recipe in the “R.S.V.P.” section) 2) Feudi di San Gregorio’s 2002 bottling, Vermentino and Standing Stone Gewürztraminers 3) Moscato d’ Asti by either La Spinetta or Vignaioli di S. Stefano 4) Chilean wine: Clos Apalta from Casa Lapostolle 5) California Vineyards: Bien Nacido, the 2001 Vine Cliff Proprietress Reserve and the 2001 Vine Cliff Bien Nacido 6) Spain is hot (again, you heard it on eG first): Belondrade y Lurton, Palacio de Menade and Las Brisas 7) Grüner Veltliner from F.X. Pichler. Also Pichler’s 2002 Kellerberg Smaragd 8) Australian Reds: Shiraz 2003 Piping Shrike, a Cab from Wolf Blass Black Label and Grenache from Clarendon Hills 9) A rare white: 1953 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage la Chapelle 10) Wine of the Year: 2001 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes What’s Hot – Classic Cocktails Vodka takes a backseat to Bourbon. Recipe: “Montenegro Manhattan” What’s Not – Say buh-bye to the Cosmopolitan, the Green Apple Martini and anything with chocolate Vodka. What’s Next – Fizz! Crisp and clean. Traditionally what works best is a mix of sour, sweet, strong and soda water. Some drinks include egg whites like the Silver King and the Ramos Gin Fizz. Leading drinks include Kittichai’s Ginger Lemongrass Highball, WD-50’s Kaffir Collins and 5 Ninth’s Gansevoort Fizz made with rum and Drambuie. Kitchen Design – “Modular Mania” by Peter McQuaid Sleek European design and a mix-&-match system with seamless lines highlight the new breed of stylish cooking spaces. Curved counters? Stainless steel reminiscent of a doctor’s office? Go figure… Restaurants – The Hot Seat – L’Auberge Carmel at Carmel-by-the-Sea with Chef Walter Manzke and co-owners David and Kathleen Fink Restaurants Top Tables - The Restaurant Reporter – by Tanya Wenman Steel Chicago: Where the Knowing are going – Jacky Pluton’s Pluton Where to go next – Alinea (eGullet strikes again!) Don’t believe the hype – Park Grill New York: Where the Knowing are going – Thomas Keller’s Per Se Where to go next – Mario Batali’s Il Posto in Chelsea and then Daniel Boulud’s new joint in the Upper West Side Don’t believe the hype – Megu Seattle: Where the Knowing are going – Tom Douglas’ Lola Where to go next – Chef-Owner John Howie’s Sport opening in ‘05 Don’t believe the hype – Tutta Bella Pizzeria Los Angeles: Where the Knowing are going – Bruce Marder’s Café Capo with Chef Ricky Moreno Where to go to next – Chef David Lentz’s The Hungry Cat & Chef team Tim and Liza Goodell’s Meson G Don’t believe the hype – Tamarin Las Vegas: Where the Knowing are going – Fix in the Bellagio Where to go next – Wynn Las Vegas with Daniel Boulud opening in the Spring of ‘05 Don’t believe the hype – Diego in the MGM Grand Philadelphia: Where the Knowing are going – Meritage Philadelphia with Chef Grant Brown Where to go next – Farmicia Don’t believe the hype – Washington Square Houston: Where the Knowing are going – Jefferey Armstrong’s 17 Where to go next – Café Annie and Tony’s Don’t believe the hype – Julia’s Bistro Minneapolis & St. Paul: Where the Knowing are going – Roger Johnsson’s A Rebours Where to go next – Stewart Woodman’s 5 Restaurant and Street Lounge Don’t believe the hype – Louis XIII New Orleans: Where the Knowing are going – Anton & Diane Shulte’s La Petite Grocery Where to go next – Donald Link’s new unnamed spot Don’t believe the hype – La Louisiane Atlanta: Where the Knowing are going – Kevin Rathbun’s Rathbun’s Where to go next – Quinines at Bacchanalia with Chefs Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison Don’t believe the hype – Salt San Francisco: Where the Knowing are going – Christopher Hille’s A16 Where to go next – Charles Phan’s new Vietnamese place that isn’t open yet Don’t believe the hype – Frission Boston: Where the Knowing are going – Pino Maffeo’s Restaurant L Where to go next – Ken Oringer’s La Verdad Don’t believe the hype – Masala Art’s Honolulu: Where the Knowing are going – Chefr Bill Bruhl’s Bluewater Grill Where to go next – Hiroshi Euarasion Tapas Don’t believe the hype – Hula Grill Waikiki San Diego: Where the Knowing are going – Riko Bartolome’s Asia-Vous in Escondido Where to go next – Coming soon…Laurel Restaurant & Bar Don’t believe the hype – Ra Sushi Miami: Where the Knowing are going – Mosaico Restaurant Where to go next – Evolutions by David Bouley at the South Beach Ritz-Carlton in ‘05 Don’t believe the hype – The District Bon Vivant – “What’s New. What’s Hot. What’s Good” by Laurie Glenn Buckle Bath products featuring a food spin: soap in pomegranate, fig and olive, pomegranate bath oil and foam (www.morcosmetics.com) A Kaffir Lime candle by Burn (www.apothia.com) A stylish Danish wooden bread tray with removable bottom tray (for crumbs) (www.garnethill.com) A Stainless steel flask shaped like a doughnut (www.target.com) A CafeSolo drip coffeemaker with neoprene cover zipper included (www.tabletools.com) Ricci “Via Veneta” Stainless steel flatware by Gump A sterling silver “dumpling” bracelet (yes, potstickers, etc) (www.paglieicollection.com) A red pottery casserole by Heath Ceramics. At a cup & a half, it’s kind of small. (www.heathceramics.com) Riedelenters the espresso market with some odd little cups and saucers (www.riedel.com) Gorgeous Goat Cheese Monet Torte with edible flowers and herbes be Provence by Harley Farms (www.harleyfarms.com) Metallic, silver snakeskin ballet slippers for the hostess with the most by Kate Spade (www.katespade.com) A Chocolate I.Q. Q&A Test (www.wishingfish.com) Andrée Putman’s Champagne cooler (www.christofle.com) “What’s Hot, What’s Not and What’s Next” – What’s Hot - “Dish of the Year” (recipe): Eric Ripert’s “Butter-Poached Lobster with Tarragon and Champagne” What’s Next: Crudo – raw seafood paired with interesting flavor combinations What’s Hot – “Top 10 Ingredients” by Bruce Aidells and Nancy Oakes A dish is only as good as its ingredients. Bruce and Nancy offer up 10 dishes featuring 10 hot “new” ingredients. Recipes: “Pea Tendrils with Crimini Mushrooms and Leeks”, “Spice Kurobuta Pork Chops”, “Braised Bacon, Pomegranate and Pine nut Relish”, “Roasted Beets and Baby Greens with Coriander Vinaigrette and Cilantro Pesto”, “Meyer Lemon Buttermilk Pudding Cake with Fresh Berries”, “Black Pepper-Crusted Wagyu New York Steaks with Black Truffle Vinaigrette”, “Crushed Heirloom potatoes”, “Roasted Organic Chicken with Moroccan Spices”, “Black Cod with Roasted Sweet-and-Sour Onions”, “Roasted Sweet-and-Sour Onions”, “Burrata Cheese with Shaved Vegetable Salad”, A side article points out 5 “What’s Not” over-exposed ingredients: Foie Gras, Portobello Mushrooms, Ahi Tuna, White Truffle Oil and last but not least, Lavender. “What’s Next” ingredients: Kumquats, American Caviar, Greek Yogurt, Smoked Paprika (eGullet strikes again!), Microgreens, Kaffir Lime, White Anchovies, Pink Peppercorns, Guanciale and old World Grains and Beans (Rancho Gordo has been preaching this on eGullet for over a year now). What’s Hot: “Cusine of the Year: Pan-Asian” Thailand, Singpore and Vietnam…all fused together for the hottest taste sensations. Recipes: “Pork Satay with Fresh Vegetable Pickles”, “Fresh vegetable Pickles”, “Cold Sesame Noodles 66”, “Peanut-Sesame Sauce”, “Fried Squid, Papaya and Frisée Salad with Spicy-Sour Dressing”, "Spicy-Sour Dressing”, “Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing” A side article points out “What’s Not” good which is fusion that goes too far like Columbian Tamales stuffed with Sardinian Lamb and Norwegian lingonberries. “What’s Next” is anything Peruvian. What’s Hot: “Desserts of the Year” Four top dessert trends: exotic chocolate, herb-infused ice cream (see eGullet), roasted fruit and anything “deconstructed”. Recipes: “Honey-Thyme Ice Cream with Caramelized Pears and Caramel Syrup”, “Deconstructed Black Forest Cake”, “Almond Cake with Roasted Pineapple and Vanilla Cream”, “Black Pearl Layer Cake” (which should have been the cover photo!) “What’s Not” hot: Cookies served with a shot glass of milk in restaurants. Puh-leeze. “What’s Next”: Giant cream puffs. [HOMER SIMPSON] Whoo-hoo!! [/HOMER SIMPSON] What’s Hot: “Spain – State of the Art” by Hugh Garvey Bon Appetít finally discovers Spain and christens it The Hot Spot and The Cutting Edge. eGullet members have seen it all before including Ferran Adria’s spice cabinet. “Fast Easy Fresh: Quick Dishes for Every Night Dining” from the Bon Appetít Test Kitchen Recipes: “Chicken with Green Olives, Orange and Sherry”, “Soft Tacos with Sausage and Feta”, “Thai Tofu with Zucchini, Red Bell Pepper and Lime”, “Fried Egg Sandwiches with Pancetta and Arugula” “Too Busy to Cook? - Fast and Easy Favorites from Readers” Recipes from Gemma Sanita Sciabica in California: “Roast Prok Tenderloin with Fresh and Dried Fruit”, “Caponata with Fennel, Olives and Raisins”, “Lentil Soup with Lamb and Mint” Recipes from Shari Ledwidge of Greenhaven, AZ: “Split Pea Soup with Sausage and Potato”, “Mexican Hot Fudge Sundaes” Recipes from Evelyn Herring of Laguna Woods, CA: “Sesame-Citrus Crackers”, “Scottish Apple Pie” Feedback - End Page Q&A with author Mitch Albom
