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albiston

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by albiston

  1. A few days ago I recieved my monthly copy of Gambero Rosso Magazine and the first thing that hit my eye was the monthly food editorial on Trattorie vs. Ristoranti. I thought the content of the article might be of interest of those who took part to this discussion. I'd like to thank Gambero Rosso's co-Editor in Chief, and author, Stefano Bonilli for the kind permission to translate and republish some excrepts of the editorial here on eGullet.
  2. the first cookies that come to mind with pinoli are pinolate, made with plenty of egg whites. I think there's a recipe for these in Carol Field's "The Italian Baker". Other related cookies are brutti ma buoni also made with plenty of egg whites and nuts. There's a good recipe from Mario Batali on the Food Network's site, here. On the other hand I'm not sure that's what you're looking for.
  3. Ore, it could be a jealousy thing, but maybe it was just the good old Italian food traditionalism; you learn that pork has to be cooked to done, for health reasons (trichinosis), and anyone doing it differently is a mad man. Recent trichinosis cases in Italy have been, by the way, more often than not caused by undercooked horse or game meat, not pork.
  4. I noted the same thing a few posts back. What is it with not reading other people's post? Just kidding kthull. (insert favourite emoticon here) I actually made the tart with the 200g butter months ago and, before finding out about the typo -I'm not too familiar with ounces and tablespoons-, and it actually was a success. A bit too buttery maybe but good .
  5. Definitely, incredibly good and slightly bitter honey; I think it matches well with aged sheep milk. It's perfect with Sardinian Seadas, fried dumplings filled of extremely fresh pecorino cheese, although some people prefer sugar syrup or orange blossom honey.
  6. Ore, that's corbezzolo, or strawberry tree, there are a few links to pictures of the fruit in the beginning posts of this thread. I bet they look better than they taste, that#s where their Latin name comes from: Arbutus unedo, where unedo means "(I) only eat one", since their looks push you to taste the fruits, but once you've had one it's more than enough .
  7. Absolutely correct Marc, both about the baccala'/stoccafisso trick those perverse Venetians use to confuse the rest of us Italian and on ragno. In different parts of Italy you can also buy baccala' cuts, presoaked, such as mussillo in Campania, i.e. the center cut sometimes compared to the tenderloin. You can also buy cheaper tail scraps for soups or dishes where baccala' ends up minced up anyway. I too am curious to know if the same hold true in Portugal and Spain. I seem to remember Bacalhau being sold at different prices depending on fish size last time I was in Oporto (a few years ago).
  8. Well you could always order it and then complain that it's only one minestrone .
  9. albiston

    Alle Testiere

    Ore, the GR score is a complex of different parameters, kitchen, wine list, atmosphere and service. Alle testiere has (or rather had, I'm looking at last's year guide) a good kitchen score 46/60 , which, considering only very few restaurants in Italy get over 50, is a good score. What really brings the total down is the score they get for the wine list 15/20, not very good. One could discuss forever if this is a fair judgement or not: at least GR is quite transparent in explaining their scores. You can agree or not, but you know where the total comes from.
  10. Oh, the painful theme of misspelled menu items As an Italian living abroad you can imagine how often this happens to me, I've stopped counting. It still angers me but I try to take it with a pinch of humor. If the owner is not Italian, well, it can happen. Still they could run the damn thing through a spell checker. What makes me really mad is knowing there are Italian restaurant owners who willingly misspell their menu. A very common example here in Germany is, instead of "penne all'arrabiata", "penne alla rabbiata" or spaghetti written as spagetti (reads the same in German). Trying to understand why it is so I discussed with the owner of a local place about this. He told me that, had he used the right spelling, many customers would not recognize the dishes as the know them. I can see his point , but think nonetheless that, as an Italian abroad, he should make an effort to educate his clients instead of consolidating their erroneous knowledge of Italian food terminology. "Biscotti" is something that bugs me. All these modern biscotti you see abroad today are a modification of "cantucci" aka "biscotti di Prato". Calling them only biscotti ignores the fact that the term simply means biscuit in Italian. The same goes for panini, which are just stuffed rolls, which can be grilled but do not have to be. But wrong names aren't as bad as wrong dishes. If the name is spelled wrong but the dish is made properly I'll go with that. It's much more annoying if the name is spelled right and the dish is wrong. Don't get me started on carbonara .
  11. Patrick, since you found out the trick would you care to tell how long they should be left out to dry? In Herme's comments to the recipe there is something about letting the macroons rest in the fridge, but nothing about it is included in the recipe itself. As I mentioned before I had a go at the hazelnut sables and the Viennese ones. The Hazelnut Chocolate Sables sounded more difficult than they turned up to be. I actually made two batches from one dough recipe. I baked the first half on the same day I assembled the two doughs together and the remaining sables two days later. I actually got the impressions that those I baked later were not only easier to slice, as Seth already mentioned, but tasted more of hazelnut, as if the hazelnut aroma had had a chance to diffuse in the dough during those two days in the fridge. The Viennese Sables are pretty simple to make. I only had a little initial problem piping them, I'm not exactly good at that, but after a few crooked dough wiggles I managed to get the shape of the cookies right if maybe a bit bigger than what Herme suggests. Once baked and cooled the cookies were just as one would expect, crisp, crumbly, and with a nice cocoa note. My only grudge is that the ridges from the piping seemed to flatten outmore than I expected. I used a bigger tip than that shown in the book (16 vs. 13) but I can't think of why that could be the problem. Any hints
  12. albiston

    Alle Testiere

    Cy, I think you should ask Joe or A_broad, I never ate there. I know it's in the guide since I had a look at Venetian restaurants only yesterday: my parents will be travelling to Venezia soon and asked me if I had any tips for them. Considering the Italian customs I'd imagine one. Italians are usually not familiar with the concept of sittings. Once you have a table it is yours for the evening or as long you want to occupy it.
  13. albiston

    Alle Testiere

    Not entirely true. It is not mentioned by Slow Food because it's over the € 35 mark, but it is in Michelin (with a single fork and spoon, or whatever the symbol is called), and on the Gambero Rosso Guide with 77 points.
  14. I'll have a go at the Cocolate Hazelnuts Sables too and probably try the Viennese Sables too. I have to make some cookies for my son's kindergarten party . If I have time I'll have a go at the Nutella tart again. Last time I made it I used double the butter amount needed. For anyone using the metric units: be careful, the recipe says 200 g but it should be 100.
  15. Excellent call. Bragging rights to Signore Grant. ← I was wondering whether they knew about this when I was there? ← Wouldn't think so. The Michelin guide came out end of november and I know for a fact, having spoken to someone who was awarded a michelin star for the first time last year, that those winning the one star awards are usually informed only AFTER the guide comes out.
  16. From your description they almost sound like these Czech spa wafers. It wouldn't surprise me if they were made in Austria too.
  17. These are pretty exactly the 40 years old words of my mother (a daughter of a Parmigiano), who worked in the fashion business in the 60ies/70ies and travelled a lot between Paris and Milano. There werent' any three stars in Italy in those days. I didn't understand a lot of that Michelin talk back then, but I knew exactly how unfair Michelin was. I was three years old, when our family had to leave Côte d'Azur, because little Bo simply refused to eat any French food and didn't came back to nourishment intake until our train reached Finale Ligure. I absolutely can't remember, but my mom told the story. ← Great stories, both of them . I guess the one about Michelin shows to things: either Michelin has been unfair to Italian restaurant throughout its history, or we Italians have a badly hidden inferiority comples toward the French and their restaurants. Actually, thinking about it, both are probably true .
  18. As every year Slow Food and Gambero Rosso publish together their guide to Italian Wines, now in its 18th edition. This year presentation took place at Salone del Gusto. For those interested in the full list of the tre bicchieri wines, a link to it can be found in Gambero Rosso's latest issue digest together with the winners of the annual special prizes.
  19. Thanks for the clarification. But at least Michelin found out about the "new" quality. I made my remark because I found Michelin lately got too much bashing for their work. Especially on the one star level, it's still a very good guide for Italy, I beleive. There's also some regionality to be considered: so for me, for example a one star in Emiglia Romagna or in Campania is often a very good help to find an outstanding, regionally based cuisine. ← I agree, and I think they're seriously making an effort to improve the Italy guide. They are clearly doing more field research than before, which would explain the 11 new one stars. The reason why I'm not a big fan of Michelin is because it's hard not to get the feeling they are being extremely hard with Italian restaurants to avoid giving three stars. I doubt a place like La Pergola in Rome would not have three stars if it were in France. Also, below one star level you can really get anything, from very good places that might deserve a star or not to much less satisfactory experiences. That doesn't mean I think it's bad. Michelin is a good guide and by far the most sold in Italy. Still, as every other one, Gambero Rosso, Espresso and Veronelli (Slow Food is something different), it has gaps and weak sides.
  20. The German Gault-Millau has been published for at least a few years now, together with the German Christian Verlag. Their 2004 edition is even available online and lists restaurants from 12 (or 12,5) points onward.
  21. I agree with that, Michelin certainly seems to be discovering a few places before other guides do, like Il Gelso di San Martino last year. On the other hand, Matthew's report made me curious so I did a little research on Il Buco: it has been on and off the Gambero Rosso Guide (and the Espress one too, I think) for the last few years, and has been on the Veronelli guide for a while, so it is not exactly a "new" discovery from Michelin.
  22. albiston

    light whites.

    Love both, but while I do see Falanghina as a light white, I'm not sure Fiano falls into the "light" category. Or maybe it depends on style: certain Fiano like Pietracupa, Clelia Romano and the Feudi di San Gregorio selections have a nice structure. Katie, is there any particular producer you think makes nice light Fiano? My favourites at the moment are AltoAdige whites: Hofstaetter, Cantina di San Michele Appiano, and Lageder's clearly too, are good producers with reasonably priced wines. Recently tasted some very nice sauvignon, with very nice and clear flint and gooseberry notes, from Springfield Estate (Robertson, SA). Even their second line, Firefinch, has some nice wines at very good prices.
  23. Ore, knowing just a little bit how Michelin works in Italy I would not take the missed star as a critique. I would suspect the Michelin people simply did not visit Locanda di Bu' in time. There's only a few reviewers (i've heard numbers between four and ten), plus a few others that help. Therefore most restaurants, except the top places, do not recieve a visit every year. I'd wait for the 2006 guide to see how Tonino fares.
  24. Indeed they did. Look at the new one starred places here.
  25. Gambero Rosso digest: November ’04 issue The HUGE guides issue. Editorial: How do the Italian medias speak of chefs? According to Editor Stefano Bonilli they’re mainly used, either instrumental to the Italian food craze or trying to force them into stardom. Most chefs seem very uncomfortable in these roles and the article ends with a few suggestions to them on how to improve their media image. Wine Editorial: The Italian wine production is in crisis, both economic and of image. While the new world moves compact to win positions on the European market the Italian wine scene does not manage to overcome its inability to communicate in a positive and concrete way. The case: Fabio Parasecoli takes a look at the Washington DC Restaurants frequently patronized by politicians, their history and what the outcome of the Presidential elections could mean in term of menu changes. Special: Vini d’Italia 2005, the Slow Food-Gambero Rosso guide to the Wines of Italy. The Vini d’Italia guide comes to its 18th edition. As usual GR awards, apart the famous Tre Bicchieri, some special prizes for the best wines and wine personalities in the following categories: Best buy: Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg ’01, Cantina di Terlano, a full of character pinot bianco Tre Bicchiere at the unbeatable price of 11 Euros. Best White: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Villa Bucci Riserva ’01 Best Red: Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva ’97 Best dessert wine: Angialis ’01, Argiolas Best sparkling wine: Trento Giulio Ferrari ’95 Vineyard of the year: Castello d’Ama, winning three Tre Bicchieri this year; Chianti Classico Castello d’Ama ’01, Chianti Classico Bellavista ’99 and Vigna l’Apparita ‘00 . Best “newcomer”: Pietracupa, producer of some of the most interesting white wines in the Avellino region. Best oenologist: Giuliano Noe’, the name behind the rebirth of Barbera, started with his work with the late Giacomo Bologna. Best wine Maker: Elio Altare in GR words “a vineyard and a life teacher “ The complete list of the tre bicchieri is available either on GR’s site (you’ll have to sign up) or on the GR discussion forum (scroll to the second last post). Wine and Terroir: Italian Grand Crus Italy has not undergone a systematic classification of its Terroirs like France has. Nonetheless special crus exist and from this issue GR will describe the 100 best ones, starting with the first ten, in Northern and Central Italy, in this issue. - Piemonte: Bussia. Top wines: Barolo Mandoca di Bussia Soprana (Oddero), Barolo Bussia (Prunotto), and Barolo Gran Bussia Riserva ( Aldo Conterno). - Piemonte: Cannubi. Top wines: Barolo Cannubi (Marchesi di Barolo), Barolo Cannubi (E. Pira e figli) and Barolo Cannubi Boschis (Sandrone). - Piemonte: Martinenga. Top wines: Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga, Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga, and Barbaresco Martinenga (all from Tenuta Cisa Asinari, Marchesi di Gresy). - Trentino: Vigneto Pianizza. Wine: Trento Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore (Lunelli). - Alto Adige/Sudtyrol: Kolbenhof. Wine: Alto Adige Gewurztraminer Kolbenhof (Hofstätter). - Veneto: Monte Lodoletta. Wine: Amraone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta (Dal Forno). - Friuli: Montsclapade. Wine: Colli Orientali del Friuli Montsclapade (Dorigo). - Toscana: La Selvanella. Wine: Chianti Classico La Selvanella Riserva (Melini). - Toscana: Poggio al Vento. Wine: Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva (Tenuta Col d’Orcia). - Umbria: Vigna Monticchio. Wine: Torgiano Rosso Rubesco Vigna Monticchio Riserva. Special: Gambero Rosso’s 2005 Ristoranti d’Italia Guide The awards Gambero Rosso handed out have been discussed in detail on this forum elsewhere. The Special Itself includes a portrait of the new entries. The new Tre Forchette, each introduced by a short story of the restaurant and interview: Leite in Sappada (BL) (Fabrizia Meroi, chef, and Roberto Brovedani, maitre); Perbellini in Isola Rizza (VR); Arquade dell’Hotel Villa del Quar in San Pietro in Cariano (VR) (Bruno Barbieri, chef); Lorenzo in Forte dei Marmi (LU) ( Gioacchino Pontarelli, chef, and Lorenzo Viani, owner) and Antonello Colonna in Labico (Roma). Some of the emerging chefs, new entries in the 80-90 points range, are introduced to the GR readers: Alberto Faccani of Magnolia in Cesenatico (FC), Cristiano Tomei of L’Imbuto in Viareggio (LU) and Libera Esposito of Il Melograno in Ischia (NA) To close the special, the new tre Gamberi trattorie: Locanda del Gambero Rosso in Bagno di Romagna (FC) and Nangallarruni in Castelbuono (PA) This month’s La cucina dello chef, the chef’s cuisine goes with the Restaurant Guide Special, presenting the recipes the Tre Forchette chefs prepared for the guests of the award ceremony, which took place in Rome in Gambero Rosso’s Citta’ del Gusto. Menu Gran Sala 1 Moreno Cedroni: “Crudo di Baccala’ salato in casa, papa di pomodoro cipolla, olive nere e maionese senza uovo” (Home salted cod with tomato and onion pappa, black olives and egg-less mayonnaise). La Madonnina del Pescatore, Senigallia. Gennaro Esposito: “Cannelloni con verdura e pescato di paranza” (Vegetable cannelloni with paranza fish). Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense. Bruno Barbieri: “Caldofreddo d’anatra al latte di cocco e melone. Cannolo di datteri e frizz di spezie” (coconut milk and melon flavoured duck chaud-froid with date cannolo and spice frizz). Arquade, San Pietro in Cariano. Giancarlo Perbellini: “Momneto Italiano: anice e caffe’” (Italian Moment: coffee and anise). Perbellini, Isola Rizza. Menu Gran Sala 2 Cioacchino Pontarelli: “Zuppettina con chiara di pesce e crocchettina di gamberetti” (white fish soup with mini shrimp croquette). Lorenzo Forte dei Marmi. Antonio Cannavacciuolo: “Risotto ai gamberi di Sicilia, slasa ai limoni di Sorrento” (Sicily shrimp risotto with Sorrento lemon sauce). Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio. Gianfranco Vissani: “Filetto di Vitella con flan di rigatoni in umido avvolto di spinaci, pure’ di patate all’arancia” (Braised calf tenderloin wrapped in spinach with rigatoni flan and orange flavoured mashed potatoes). Vissani, Baschi. Corrado Fasolato: “Sensazioni di Rum, Tabacco, curry e Caffe’” (Sensations of rum, tobacco, curry and coffee). Siriola, Badia Abtei. Terrace Menu 1 Nadia Santini: “Anguilla marinata in carpione al profumo di agrumi” (In carpione eel with citrus fruit aroma). Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull’Oglio. Elia Rizzo: “Risotto alla zucca e amarone” (Amarone and pumpkin risotto). Il Desco, Verona. Heinz Beck: “Agnello in crosta di pane” (Lamb in bread crust). La Pergola, Roma. Annie Foelde: “Pensiero d’uva” (Grape thought). Enoteca Pinchiorri, Firenze. Terrace Menu 2 Alfonso Iaccarino: “Naif di astice, mozzarella, pomodoro con raviolo di barbabietola, pesca e bolllicine” (lobster naif, mozzarella, tomato with bettroot raviolo, peach and bubbly). Don Alfonso 1890, Sant’Agata sui due golfi. Norbert Niederkofler: “Risotto con wasabi e anguilla marinata e affumicata” (Wasabi risotto with marinated and smoked eel). Sant’Uberto, Badia/Abtei. Romano Tamani: “Guancialino di Maiale stufato con funghidi Borgotaro e polenta di Quisitello” (Pig cheeks braised with Borgotaro mushroom and Quisitello polenta). L’Ambasciata, Quisitello. Paolo Teverini: “Viva le castagne” (hurray to chestnuts). Paolo Teverini, Bagno di Romagna. Kitchen Theater menu Antonello Colonna: “Guanciale di Maialino, farro e mele cotogne” (Suckling pig cheeks, farro and quince). Antonello Colonna, Labico. Massimiliano Alajmo: “Risotto allo zafferano con polvere di liquerizia” (Saffron risotto with liquorice powder). Le Calandre, Rubano. Antonello Colonna: “Guanciola di Manzo Brasata” (Braised steer’s cheeks). Antonello Colonna, Labico. Massimiliano Alajmo: “Sorbetto di pompelmo rosa con insalata di olive condite e aneto, spuma frizzante di limone gin e cannelloni di mandorle e pinoli” (Pink grapefruit sorbet with dressed olives and dill, sparkling foam of lemon gin and almond and pinenut cannolo). Le Calandre, Rubano. Wine Bar menu Fabrizia Meroi: “Terrina di foie gras e anguilla affumicata con composta di finocchi e rabarbero” (Foie gras and smoked eel terrine with fennel and rhubarb compote). Leite, Sappada. Fulvio Pierangelini: “Zuppa di burrata con ravioli di aringa” (Burrata soup wit herring ravioli). Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo. Fabrizia Meroi: “Cervo cotto a bassa temperatura con cenere di cipolla” (Low temperature cooked venison with onion ash ). Leite, Sappada. Fulvio Pierangelini: “Fagottini di fagioli e pepperoni, crema di peperoncino” (Bean and bell pepper turnovers, chilli cream). Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo. Indovina chi viene a cena (guess who's coming for dinner) Italian and French chefs meet. In this episode: Gilles Choukroun, acclaimed as one of the top young cooks with his Parisian Café des Dèlices and L’Angl’Opera, meets Massimo Bottura, indicated, together with Davide Scabin, as one of the only Italian avant-garde chefs, in Bottura’s restaurant Hosteria La Francescana (Modena). Dieci anni a tutto cibo (An enquiry on ten years of food as a fashion) Raffaella Prandi takes a look at the effects, both positive and negative, the food-wine mania has had in Italy and possible evolutions through interviews with chefs, journalists and celebrities. Trends: food and design This year one of the highlights of the Sia, Salone Internazionale delle attrezzature alberghiere (international showroom of hotel equipment) will be a matching between some of Italy’s best chefs and designers. Each pair will develop a special themed dinner room. The article gives a preview of the event. Special: Bar d’Italia guide After a first edition enclosed with the magazine last year, GR’s Bar d’Italia enters the world of Italian food related guides. Each bar in the The Bar of the year award goes to Converso in Bra (Cuneo). 18 Bars receive top marks, four more than last year with two famous cafès, Caffè Cibreo (Firenze) and Caffè (Perugia). The best Bars in Italy according to GR are: Baratti e Milano (Torino), Caffè Mulassano (Torino), Stravinskij Bar of the Hotel de Russie (Roma), Balzer (Bergamo), Dandolo of the Hotel Danieli (Venezia), Biasetto (Padova), Caffè Platti (Torino), Caffè Sicilia (Noto, Siracusa), Caffè Torino (Torino), Gren Caffè Cimmino (Napoli), La Bottega di Barbanera (Foligno, Perugia), Caffetteria Piansa (Firenze), Spinnato Antico Caffè (Palermo), Staccoli Caffè (Cattolica, Rimini), Strumia (Sommariva del Bosco, Cuneo), Tuttobene (Campi Bisenzio, Firenze) Zilioli (Brescia). Patagonia special Rosario Scarpato takes a look at the nouvelle vague of Argentinian cooking starting off in Patagonia. Through the rediscovery of the Mapuche tradition and forgotten fruit, vegetables and meats a group of young chefs is developing a unique cooking style Berebene special As every year, GR publishes an everyday wine guide called Almanacco del bere bene for wines priced up to 8 €. For each region a special oscar award is given as recognition of excellence. The winners of the 2005 edition Oscars: Valle d’Aosta: Valle d’Aosta Chambave ’03 La Crotta di Vegneron. Piemonte: Dolcetto D’Alba Roccabella ’03 Terre da Vino. Liguria: Golfo del Tigullio Bianchetta Genovese U Pastine ’03 Enoteca Bisson. Lombardia: Oltrepo’ Pavese Barbera Autari ’03 Cantina di Casteggio. Trentino: Teroldego Rotaliano ’02 Cantina Rotaliana. Alto Adige: Alto Adige Santa Maddalena Classico ’03 Cant. Prod. Santa Maddalena Cant. di Bolzano. Veneto: Bianco di Custoza ’03 Cavalchina. Friuli Venezia Guilia: Friuli Grave Sauvignon Sobaja ’03 Pradio. Emilia Romagna: Sangiovese di Romagna ’03 Leone Conti. Toscana: Morrellino di Scansano Roggiano ’03 Cant. Coop. Del Morellino di Scansano. Marche: Rosso Piceno Superiore Castellano ’01 Cantina dei colli Ripani. Umbria: Colli del Trasimeno Grechetto Nuricante ’03 Duca della Corgna. Lazio: Satrico ’03 Casale del Giglio. Abruzzo: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Tralcietto ’02 Zaccagnini. Molise: Sangiovese Terre degli Osci ’03 Di Majo Norante. Campania: Sannio Falanghina ’03 Feudi di San Gregorio. Basilicata: Barigliott ’03 Paternoster. Puglia: Primitivo di Manduria Archidiamo ’03 Pervini. Calabria: Savuto ’02 Odoardi. Sicila: Nero d’Avola ’03 Cusumano. Sardegna: Cannonau di Sardegna Costera ’03 Argiolas. Contrappunto Luciano Di Lillo reflects on the ’99 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino wines as a key step to the qualitative maturity of this area.. Books The reviews: Alberto Calosso and Pietro Gallarino use comics for their take on traditional Pemontese cooking in their Cucina di Tradizione del Piemonte; Allan Bay tries to replicate the success of his first book, with new recipes and cooking tricks and advices, in his Cuochi si Diventa 2 (Feltrinelli); La cucina di Roma Antica (Newton Compton) by Francesco Maria Amato looks at the cooking of ancient Rome; Italian actor Alberto Sordi’s relationship to food is analyzed in Cristina Gimignani Il Marchese e’ Servito (Effequ); Biblitheca Culinarai publishes the Italian translation of Paco Torreblanca’s pastry book;Bepi Pulciarelli’s L’Italia del Cavolo looks at cabbages and their tradition in Italian cooking and closes with 32 cabbage based recipes from top Italian chefs, again from Bibliotheca Culinaria. Travel tips: - Restaurant: La Locanda di Bu’ in Nusco (AV). Chef Toni Pisaniello’s restaurant is one of the best example of the new wave of hogh quality restaurants in Campania. For more details I should leave you with the words of our own special reporter from Locanda di Bu’, Ore. - Hotel: Antica Locanda Leonardo in Milan is a rare find in the local hotel scene made of business clientele oriented places. Leone Frefel’s and Yumi Chiara’s Locanda tries to offer a special familiar atmosphere inspired by the Japanese yado concept executed with Italian style. - Agriturismo: Foresteria Duca di Dolla (cison di Valmarino, Treviso) is an agriturismo run by the Prosecco producers Bisol. A former monastery situated in a magnificent location, with part of the building used for the appassimento, the drying of the grapes that go in the Duca di Dolle sweet wine. - Producer: Simone Turus of Mossa (Gorizia) is bringing the local cured meats tradition to new levels with his take on the ancient local recipes with products ranging from Salame Gentile, lardo with eight spices up to cotechino.
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