Gambero Rosso digest: November ’04 issue The HUGE guides issue. Editorial: How do the Italian medias speak of chefs? According to Editor Stefano Bonilli they’re mainly used, either instrumental to the Italian food craze or trying to force them into stardom. Most chefs seem very uncomfortable in these roles and the article ends with a few suggestions to them on how to improve their media image. Wine Editorial: The Italian wine production is in crisis, both economic and of image. While the new world moves compact to win positions on the European market the Italian wine scene does not manage to overcome its inability to communicate in a positive and concrete way. The case: Fabio Parasecoli takes a look at the Washington DC Restaurants frequently patronized by politicians, their history and what the outcome of the Presidential elections could mean in term of menu changes. Special: Vini d’Italia 2005, the Slow Food-Gambero Rosso guide to the Wines of Italy. The Vini d’Italia guide comes to its 18th edition. As usual GR awards, apart the famous Tre Bicchieri, some special prizes for the best wines and wine personalities in the following categories: Best buy: Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg ’01, Cantina di Terlano, a full of character pinot bianco Tre Bicchiere at the unbeatable price of 11 Euros. Best White: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Villa Bucci Riserva ’01 Best Red: Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva ’97 Best dessert wine: Angialis ’01, Argiolas Best sparkling wine: Trento Giulio Ferrari ’95 Vineyard of the year: Castello d’Ama, winning three Tre Bicchieri this year; Chianti Classico Castello d’Ama ’01, Chianti Classico Bellavista ’99 and Vigna l’Apparita ‘00 . Best “newcomer”: Pietracupa, producer of some of the most interesting white wines in the Avellino region. Best oenologist: Giuliano Noe’, the name behind the rebirth of Barbera, started with his work with the late Giacomo Bologna. Best wine Maker: Elio Altare in GR words “a vineyard and a life teacher “ The complete list of the tre bicchieri is available either on GR’s site (you’ll have to sign up) or on the GR discussion forum (scroll to the second last post). Wine and Terroir: Italian Grand Crus Italy has not undergone a systematic classification of its Terroirs like France has. Nonetheless special crus exist and from this issue GR will describe the 100 best ones, starting with the first ten, in Northern and Central Italy, in this issue. - Piemonte: Bussia. Top wines: Barolo Mandoca di Bussia Soprana (Oddero), Barolo Bussia (Prunotto), and Barolo Gran Bussia Riserva ( Aldo Conterno). - Piemonte: Cannubi. Top wines: Barolo Cannubi (Marchesi di Barolo), Barolo Cannubi (E. Pira e figli) and Barolo Cannubi Boschis (Sandrone). - Piemonte: Martinenga. Top wines: Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga, Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga, and Barbaresco Martinenga (all from Tenuta Cisa Asinari, Marchesi di Gresy). - Trentino: Vigneto Pianizza. Wine: Trento Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore (Lunelli). - Alto Adige/Sudtyrol: Kolbenhof. Wine: Alto Adige Gewurztraminer Kolbenhof (Hofstätter). - Veneto: Monte Lodoletta. Wine: Amraone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta (Dal Forno). - Friuli: Montsclapade. Wine: Colli Orientali del Friuli Montsclapade (Dorigo). - Toscana: La Selvanella. Wine: Chianti Classico La Selvanella Riserva (Melini). - Toscana: Poggio al Vento. Wine: Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva (Tenuta Col d’Orcia). - Umbria: Vigna Monticchio. Wine: Torgiano Rosso Rubesco Vigna Monticchio Riserva. Special: Gambero Rosso’s 2005 Ristoranti d’Italia Guide The awards Gambero Rosso handed out have been discussed in detail on this forum elsewhere. The Special Itself includes a portrait of the new entries. The new Tre Forchette, each introduced by a short story of the restaurant and interview: Leite in Sappada (BL) (Fabrizia Meroi, chef, and Roberto Brovedani, maitre); Perbellini in Isola Rizza (VR); Arquade dell’Hotel Villa del Quar in San Pietro in Cariano (VR) (Bruno Barbieri, chef); Lorenzo in Forte dei Marmi (LU) ( Gioacchino Pontarelli, chef, and Lorenzo Viani, owner) and Antonello Colonna in Labico (Roma). Some of the emerging chefs, new entries in the 80-90 points range, are introduced to the GR readers: Alberto Faccani of Magnolia in Cesenatico (FC), Cristiano Tomei of L’Imbuto in Viareggio (LU) and Libera Esposito of Il Melograno in Ischia (NA) To close the special, the new tre Gamberi trattorie: Locanda del Gambero Rosso in Bagno di Romagna (FC) and Nangallarruni in Castelbuono (PA) This month’s La cucina dello chef, the chef’s cuisine goes with the Restaurant Guide Special, presenting the recipes the Tre Forchette chefs prepared for the guests of the award ceremony, which took place in Rome in Gambero Rosso’s Citta’ del Gusto. Menu Gran Sala 1 Moreno Cedroni: “Crudo di Baccala’ salato in casa, papa di pomodoro cipolla, olive nere e maionese senza uovo” (Home salted cod with tomato and onion pappa, black olives and egg-less mayonnaise). La Madonnina del Pescatore, Senigallia. Gennaro Esposito: “Cannelloni con verdura e pescato di paranza” (Vegetable cannelloni with paranza fish). Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense. Bruno Barbieri: “Caldofreddo d’anatra al latte di cocco e melone. Cannolo di datteri e frizz di spezie” (coconut milk and melon flavoured duck chaud-froid with date cannolo and spice frizz). Arquade, San Pietro in Cariano. Giancarlo Perbellini: “Momneto Italiano: anice e caffe’” (Italian Moment: coffee and anise). Perbellini, Isola Rizza. Menu Gran Sala 2 Cioacchino Pontarelli: “Zuppettina con chiara di pesce e crocchettina di gamberetti” (white fish soup with mini shrimp croquette). Lorenzo Forte dei Marmi. Antonio Cannavacciuolo: “Risotto ai gamberi di Sicilia, slasa ai limoni di Sorrento” (Sicily shrimp risotto with Sorrento lemon sauce). Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio. Gianfranco Vissani: “Filetto di Vitella con flan di rigatoni in umido avvolto di spinaci, pure’ di patate all’arancia” (Braised calf tenderloin wrapped in spinach with rigatoni flan and orange flavoured mashed potatoes). Vissani, Baschi. Corrado Fasolato: “Sensazioni di Rum, Tabacco, curry e Caffe’” (Sensations of rum, tobacco, curry and coffee). Siriola, Badia Abtei. Terrace Menu 1 Nadia Santini: “Anguilla marinata in carpione al profumo di agrumi” (In carpione eel with citrus fruit aroma). Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull’Oglio. Elia Rizzo: “Risotto alla zucca e amarone” (Amarone and pumpkin risotto). Il Desco, Verona. Heinz Beck: “Agnello in crosta di pane” (Lamb in bread crust). La Pergola, Roma. Annie Foelde: “Pensiero d’uva” (Grape thought). Enoteca Pinchiorri, Firenze. Terrace Menu 2 Alfonso Iaccarino: “Naif di astice, mozzarella, pomodoro con raviolo di barbabietola, pesca e bolllicine” (lobster naif, mozzarella, tomato with bettroot raviolo, peach and bubbly). Don Alfonso 1890, Sant’Agata sui due golfi. Norbert Niederkofler: “Risotto con wasabi e anguilla marinata e affumicata” (Wasabi risotto with marinated and smoked eel). Sant’Uberto, Badia/Abtei. Romano Tamani: “Guancialino di Maiale stufato con funghidi Borgotaro e polenta di Quisitello” (Pig cheeks braised with Borgotaro mushroom and Quisitello polenta). L’Ambasciata, Quisitello. Paolo Teverini: “Viva le castagne” (hurray to chestnuts). Paolo Teverini, Bagno di Romagna. Kitchen Theater menu Antonello Colonna: “Guanciale di Maialino, farro e mele cotogne” (Suckling pig cheeks, farro and quince). Antonello Colonna, Labico. Massimiliano Alajmo: “Risotto allo zafferano con polvere di liquerizia” (Saffron risotto with liquorice powder). Le Calandre, Rubano. Antonello Colonna: “Guanciola di Manzo Brasata” (Braised steer’s cheeks). Antonello Colonna, Labico. Massimiliano Alajmo: “Sorbetto di pompelmo rosa con insalata di olive condite e aneto, spuma frizzante di limone gin e cannelloni di mandorle e pinoli” (Pink grapefruit sorbet with dressed olives and dill, sparkling foam of lemon gin and almond and pinenut cannolo). Le Calandre, Rubano. Wine Bar menu Fabrizia Meroi: “Terrina di foie gras e anguilla affumicata con composta di finocchi e rabarbero” (Foie gras and smoked eel terrine with fennel and rhubarb compote). Leite, Sappada. Fulvio Pierangelini: “Zuppa di burrata con ravioli di aringa” (Burrata soup wit herring ravioli). Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo. Fabrizia Meroi: “Cervo cotto a bassa temperatura con cenere di cipolla” (Low temperature cooked venison with onion ash ). Leite, Sappada. Fulvio Pierangelini: “Fagottini di fagioli e pepperoni, crema di peperoncino” (Bean and bell pepper turnovers, chilli cream). Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo. Indovina chi viene a cena (guess who's coming for dinner) Italian and French chefs meet. In this episode: Gilles Choukroun, acclaimed as one of the top young cooks with his Parisian Café des Dèlices and L’Angl’Opera, meets Massimo Bottura, indicated, together with Davide Scabin, as one of the only Italian avant-garde chefs, in Bottura’s restaurant Hosteria La Francescana (Modena). Dieci anni a tutto cibo (An enquiry on ten years of food as a fashion) Raffaella Prandi takes a look at the effects, both positive and negative, the food-wine mania has had in Italy and possible evolutions through interviews with chefs, journalists and celebrities. Trends: food and design This year one of the highlights of the Sia, Salone Internazionale delle attrezzature alberghiere (international showroom of hotel equipment) will be a matching between some of Italy’s best chefs and designers. Each pair will develop a special themed dinner room. The article gives a preview of the event. Special: Bar d’Italia guide After a first edition enclosed with the magazine last year, GR’s Bar d’Italia enters the world of Italian food related guides. Each bar in the The Bar of the year award goes to Converso in Bra (Cuneo). 18 Bars receive top marks, four more than last year with two famous cafès, Caffè Cibreo (Firenze) and Caffè (Perugia). The best Bars in Italy according to GR are: Baratti e Milano (Torino), Caffè Mulassano (Torino), Stravinskij Bar of the Hotel de Russie (Roma), Balzer (Bergamo), Dandolo of the Hotel Danieli (Venezia), Biasetto (Padova), Caffè Platti (Torino), Caffè Sicilia (Noto, Siracusa), Caffè Torino (Torino), Gren Caffè Cimmino (Napoli), La Bottega di Barbanera (Foligno, Perugia), Caffetteria Piansa (Firenze), Spinnato Antico Caffè (Palermo), Staccoli Caffè (Cattolica, Rimini), Strumia (Sommariva del Bosco, Cuneo), Tuttobene (Campi Bisenzio, Firenze) Zilioli (Brescia). Patagonia special Rosario Scarpato takes a look at the nouvelle vague of Argentinian cooking starting off in Patagonia. Through the rediscovery of the Mapuche tradition and forgotten fruit, vegetables and meats a group of young chefs is developing a unique cooking style Berebene special As every year, GR publishes an everyday wine guide called Almanacco del bere bene for wines priced up to 8 €. For each region a special oscar award is given as recognition of excellence. The winners of the 2005 edition Oscars: Valle d’Aosta: Valle d’Aosta Chambave ’03 La Crotta di Vegneron. Piemonte: Dolcetto D’Alba Roccabella ’03 Terre da Vino. Liguria: Golfo del Tigullio Bianchetta Genovese U Pastine ’03 Enoteca Bisson. Lombardia: Oltrepo’ Pavese Barbera Autari ’03 Cantina di Casteggio. Trentino: Teroldego Rotaliano ’02 Cantina Rotaliana. Alto Adige: Alto Adige Santa Maddalena Classico ’03 Cant. Prod. Santa Maddalena Cant. di Bolzano. Veneto: Bianco di Custoza ’03 Cavalchina. Friuli Venezia Guilia: Friuli Grave Sauvignon Sobaja ’03 Pradio. Emilia Romagna: Sangiovese di Romagna ’03 Leone Conti. Toscana: Morrellino di Scansano Roggiano ’03 Cant. Coop. Del Morellino di Scansano. Marche: Rosso Piceno Superiore Castellano ’01 Cantina dei colli Ripani. Umbria: Colli del Trasimeno Grechetto Nuricante ’03 Duca della Corgna. Lazio: Satrico ’03 Casale del Giglio. Abruzzo: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Tralcietto ’02 Zaccagnini. Molise: Sangiovese Terre degli Osci ’03 Di Majo Norante. Campania: Sannio Falanghina ’03 Feudi di San Gregorio. Basilicata: Barigliott ’03 Paternoster. Puglia: Primitivo di Manduria Archidiamo ’03 Pervini. Calabria: Savuto ’02 Odoardi. Sicila: Nero d’Avola ’03 Cusumano. Sardegna: Cannonau di Sardegna Costera ’03 Argiolas. Contrappunto Luciano Di Lillo reflects on the ’99 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino wines as a key step to the qualitative maturity of this area.. Books The reviews: Alberto Calosso and Pietro Gallarino use comics for their take on traditional Pemontese cooking in their Cucina di Tradizione del Piemonte; Allan Bay tries to replicate the success of his first book, with new recipes and cooking tricks and advices, in his Cuochi si Diventa 2 (Feltrinelli); La cucina di Roma Antica (Newton Compton) by Francesco Maria Amato looks at the cooking of ancient Rome; Italian actor Alberto Sordi’s relationship to food is analyzed in Cristina Gimignani Il Marchese e’ Servito (Effequ); Biblitheca Culinarai publishes the Italian translation of Paco Torreblanca’s pastry book;Bepi Pulciarelli’s L’Italia del Cavolo looks at cabbages and their tradition in Italian cooking and closes with 32 cabbage based recipes from top Italian chefs, again from Bibliotheca Culinaria. Travel tips: - Restaurant: La Locanda di Bu’ in Nusco (AV). Chef Toni Pisaniello’s restaurant is one of the best example of the new wave of hogh quality restaurants in Campania. For more details I should leave you with the words of our own special reporter from Locanda di Bu’, Ore. - Hotel: Antica Locanda Leonardo in Milan is a rare find in the local hotel scene made of business clientele oriented places. Leone Frefel’s and Yumi Chiara’s Locanda tries to offer a special familiar atmosphere inspired by the Japanese yado concept executed with Italian style. - Agriturismo: Foresteria Duca di Dolla (cison di Valmarino, Treviso) is an agriturismo run by the Prosecco producers Bisol. A former monastery situated in a magnificent location, with part of the building used for the appassimento, the drying of the grapes that go in the Duca di Dolle sweet wine. - Producer: Simone Turus of Mossa (Gorizia) is bringing the local cured meats tradition to new levels with his take on the ancient local recipes with products ranging from Salame Gentile, lardo with eight spices up to cotechino.