Bux

...as if the two instances were comparable. Res ipsa loquitur. I'll agree the facts speak for themselves, but we'll have to agree that we disagree on what they say. My private mail suggests there is enough ground for comparison, especially under the circumstances.

I don't think journalism students are the majority of food journalists and certainly not the majority or restaurant reviewers. That may or may not be part of the problem. Of course there are many who would argue that restaurant reviews are not journalism.

Excuse me, but we may all disagree on what's raw. Bux, there's absolutely zero chance you or anyone else here would have considered the tip of that chicken anything but raw, and the dish was not described on the menu as chicken sashimi. The waiter was genuinely shocked that the chicken was raw. Sorry for any confusion I did not mean to imply that there was any thought that your chicken was properly or even acceptably prepared at Bouley. My reply was meant to comment on the assumption that it is never acceptable to serve raw chicken. In fact, raw chicken is not only excusable, but expected in some places, if not in Bouley. To bring this into the context of the thread, I don't think it's acceptable for a reviewer to ignore the fact that he, or anyone he dined with, was served raw chicken, when they ordered cooked chicken. While he can't ignore it, he also needn't mention it. Space is usually limited and even if when writing in eGullet one has all the room one can take, one needs to keep the reader's focus and thus a good writer needs to choose his details carefully. No one will ever convince me that mistakes don't happen at the best restaurants. How they are handled may speak more about a restaurant's greatness than the fact that I don't get to see the mistakes. If I've had ten superb meals at a restaurant and in the course of my eleventh meal, I was served less than fully cooked chicken, or chicken that was raw in whole or part, and the management acted in a way that made me believe they were shocked at what happened and did as much as possible to recover a wonderful experience for me and compensate me for my displeasure, I might make no more note of the fact other than to say that only once in eleven meals was anything less than perfect and then compliment management for setting that right without the need to get into any details. My point in all this is that people are going to eventually have respect for a critic or not, on the basis of many things. John Whiting's "A critic needn't be virtuous, only accurate," seems right on target with my thoughts. If I go to a reastaurant on the basis of a review, I want to have the meal the review led me to expect I would have. In the end, does it matter if the critic has been to the restaurant or if he's lying through his teeth as long as he's accurate. Consider this, if I knew a chef was a scoundrel, I might not want to eat at his restaurant and I might not want to recommend it, but I wouldn't lie about his food. What would my responsibilities be as a critic reviewing that restaurant?

Simon, What's up in San Celoni?

Not uncommon online, but rarely does it provide such a new gastronomic treat. You're forgiven, or should I say "thanks for stirring our imagination?"

Excuse me, but we may all disagree on what's raw. For instance, I've found the French generally consider a roast chicken done at a point most Americans consider it still uncooked. On eating raw food abroad, here's a mention of chicken sashimi (raw chicken) in Japan. Raw chicken is neither inherently unhealthy or unpalatable. That the American consumer doesn't demand sashimi quality chicken is another matter. What boggles my mind is how many personal beliefs my fellow members are willing to offer as universal.

I'm tempted to say she can have whatever she wants here. As usual, we'll be looking forward to as much communication from Louisa as possible. Cala Montjoi and Roses are certainly going to afford a very different experience than Paris. I hope she gets out and around Catalunya a bit as well. This will be a great experience and I'm sure Louisa knows how much you all want to share it.

A fascinating thread, but far longer than the subject really merits, in my opinion. Unfortunately I probably won't be able to leave it alone now and I'm not likely to be more relevent than John Whiting, so I'll try to be as terse and post no more regularly. I'm also likely to fail in both regards. Was it Schneier who said "This is a huge issue?" I believe he and chad presented the best arguments for maximum disclosure, and that he made it rather clear that this was a relative thing. Full disclosure is, quite frankly, impossible, so we are talking about relative degrees of disclosure. Coming from Schneier's posts, I get the opinion that it's also up to the writer to decide what's relative and relevent. Eventually, a writer (journalist, reviewer, etc.) will earn the faith of his readers or not. By the time you've eaten in a few restaurants after reading the reviews, you will begin to have made up your mind about how to accept, dismiss, or read between the lines of future reviews and it's not going to matter much why he was moved to write what he wrote. I am perfectly willing to dismiss rants from anyone who read a rave review, went to the restaurant and had a great meal, but later felt cheated upon learning the reviewer was sleeping with the chef. There are principles and principles. Honesty may be an absolute principle, but full disclosure is not. I disagree with those who wish to avoid naming names and keep this thread abstract. I think one can often make one's point better by citing a real example and in the interest of "disclosure" I think Fat Guy makes a good target, although all sense of sport is lost once "charges" that are no more than one's subjective view continue to be repeated. I don't know who knew what and when, but nothing's come up about Fat Guy's relationships with which I was unaware at the time I read his Mix post and at the time I responded on that thread before and after I'd eaten there. Fat Guy and I often disagree. We have different perspectives and different values. None of this makes his writing any less interesting or less useful to me. I'm unlikely to learn much that will change my professional regard for his writing, although I understand why others might have wanted to know more earlier rather than later. However, my understanding might not stop me from questioning their focus. I allow for a lot of subjectivity and Fat Guy is just going to have to live with whatever reputation he gets. I assume he already knows he's not going to please everyone all the time anyway. I think it's fair for any individual to express disappointment, it's not reasonable to assume one's disappointment is bound to be based on an absolute principle or of universal interest. In regard to "full disclosure," I'm quite sensitive to the call for full disclosure in regard to my mentions of Daniel Boulud. After all, my daughter worked for him and married one of his right hand men. On the otherhand, none of this might ever have happened if he didn't open his own restaurant while she was in college and if my wife and didn't agree that his restaurant was our favorite. The was the first time we managed to share the same regard for a single restaurant and we became repeat, if not regular, diners and introduced our daughter to the restaurant by way of a graduation lunch--for which, if I recall correctly, we got my brother-in-law to pay. To make a long story short, we have a situation where my daughter becomes an unpaid stage for six months at my favorite restaurant and I run the risk of not disclosing my affiliation when I speak favorably of the organization that's already getting more than it's giving. My opinion of the food is not influenced by my relationship. My relationship is a product of my opinion of the food. I know of no restaurant where I am known and of which I'd give a favorable opinion that hasn't arisen first out of eating well as an unknown diner. Full disclosure would require me to add that this doesn't represent the extent of my relationship with Daniel Boulud or his organization. I helped him get his first website online and I'm disappointed that he didn't get a lot of what we tried to do when he went with a slicker, but, in my opinion, less communicative design. Actually, I could go on for several pages if "full disclosure" was of real importance. I make no secret that any disclosure is partial disclosure and thus "full disclosure" is usually going to be a red herring. The most amusing posts on this thread are by those who speak in very abstract terms and who rarely contribute much of importance, but who are always quick to spot places they can leave derogatory comments about the management or the managers. It's just remarkable how someone could respond to a call for disclosure, after being critical of others, with "Discussion with [unidentified] friends about trust and professional ethics." Full disclosure would require me to note that I always feel slighted when they pick on Shaw and not me.

This is new to me -- I'm assuming it is nothing more than a tender, young lamb's liver (I can't imagine they are actually force-feeding a lamb-i-kins!). I missed that. It's a new term to me as well. Is that a typo, some individual artistic license in the use of the term "foie gras," or is there a trend here?

I'd be reluctant to rely on any advice that didin't come from the US Department of Agriculture directly anyway, so I don't think what you will get here on legal matters is very important. The Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service Website is probably a good place to start if you want reliable information "USDA-APHIS-PPQ’s Permit Unit can provide information about import requirements and permits for plants, plant parts, fruits, vegetables, and other agricultural items. Contact: USDA, APHIS Plant Protection and Quarantine 4700 River Road, Unit 136 Riverdale, MD 20737-1236, Attention: Permit Unit www.aphis.usda.gov Or Look in your local phone book for the nearest office of USDA, APHIS, PPQ, or call the central office at 877-770-5990 or 301-734-8645."

Terrific. It's really great to hear that it's final and official.

I was being a little facetious.

Hi, Since the restaurant is busy every night, Valentine's Day is just another busy night. There will be a special tasting menu that night, plus the regular menus. I don't know about DC, but up here in NY, I try to avoid going to most restaurants on Mother's Day and Valentine's Day. I've found the traffic is no worse and it's not that much harder to get a reservation, but the restaurants are full of what I refer to as "Sunday Drivers." That is, there are many once a year diners who really aren't experienced restauratn goers and who take up the staff's time and try their patience. Invariably, the staff is working at a more stressful level.

Paul is an interesting and either a disappointment or pleasant surprise depending on one's attitude towards chainsl. Paul is a chain bakery with several outlets in Paris--there's also one in the Buci market area--and around France. It's not one of Paris' absolute top boulangeries, but for those who despise chains, it's disappointly good. As an avid traveler, I am opposed to the idea of chains as well as the mall clothing stores displaying the same goods all over the world. I want a local experience when I travel, and enjoy the "gut reaction" from eating that which I can only get in a specific location. As I also want the best, I'm sometimes forced to choose between the local wares and the better chain offerings. At home in NY, I frequently buy my bread and some pastry at a Pain Quotidien shop. In Lyon I've bought bread at another outlet of the same Belgian bakery because it was convenient and the product is excellent.

It's been my experience that a top hotel breakfast buffet is the equivalent of a brunch any day of the week. There's often a lavish array of breads, pastries, cakes, ham, patés, and other cold cuts, cheese, yogurt, cereal, eggs, sausages, juices, coffee, tea, etc.

I concur. Dehillerin is on rue Coquillière which runs almost perpendicular to Montotgueil, but doesn't quite intersect it. You'd have to walk around St. Eustache, or use one of the little streets running on a diagonal to both, to get from one to the other.

I hope not. Balducci's went out of business, at least in the Village. The Sixth Avenue store is now occupied by a Citarella market. There is, apparently, a smaller shop on West 66th Street operating under the same name. After buying some bad mussels there some thirty or forty years ago, I was never a fan, but that might have been a bit of bad luck--assuming one can ascribe bad luck to a seafood merchant's willing to sell state shellfish even once in a while. It changed hands a while back and had been going down hill since in spite of the new owner's interest in buidling a super brand retail and online gourmet shop. NY Times article abstract.

I had the mussels at Balthazar this evening. The snow was a blessing. That it turned to rain was even better. Early in the day I called to see if there had been any cancellations. All they could offer was 5:30 and 10:00 PM. I figured people would cancel later. I called back at six and they offered me a 7:30 reservation and actually sat me as soon as I arrived. The mussels were very good. The put cream in the pot, so the broth is rich and they put celery in the pot as well which seems very Belgian rather than French, but tastes good anyway. The mussels were small, but plump and well cooked. The accompanying fries were excellent as well. The bread, both the white and French rye is also very good. In fact, the rye with butter is the perfect bread with oysters. It reminds me of the bread that accompanyies oysters in Parisian brasseries. Interestingly enough, the oysters I've had in Paris in recent years have not been as good as the ones in Balthzar. A carafe of Muscadet was perfect with both the oysters and the mussels. I thought we might be the only New Yorkers in the place tonight. I guess it was the locals who cancelled and called for take-out food. Mrs. B asked the waitress if all of her tables were out of towners and she said only about two thirds of them. New York, for those who haven't noticed, is full of tourists. It's been hard to get a hotel room at almost any price. Traditionally, the week the tree is lit in Rockerfeller Center, is the busiest week for tourism in New York, but tourism has been slack in NY. This season it seems back in style. The couple from Seattle had a good time in NY. They spent their money on theater and dining, but the ladies from Wales sitting next to them, were determined to get a lot of Christmas shopping done. We thanked then for their efforts to right the capsizing dollar. New Yorkers will rarely start a conversation with strangers in a restaurant, but we're just reserved, not unfriendly. We'll generally answer questions. At any rate, we gave the Seattle couple some restaurant tips, especially for le Bernardin and Oceana when we found out he was in the fish and seafood business and writing a fish cookbook. She, by the way, collects cookbooks. We also suggested they log on to eGullet.com. Both tables seemed tickled pink to be in NY which was nice to hear. I noticed Balthazar had a cheese plate, but really don't know how good the cheeses are, or if they arrive cold as in many NY restaurants. A good tip in many restaurants is to order the cheese early in case it's served too cold. I forgot to check on the charcuterie offerings. It was an off night and not only was there no line waiting to be seated at 8:30, but there were a couple of empty tables. My observation may be atypical, but we weren't rushed to leave after dinner. Come to think of it, I am often aware of a line of people waiting for a table and thus self conscious about hogging one myself after I've finished my espresso, but I don't ever recall feeling rushed after dinner or during dinner if I take a few moments to finish my wine before ordering dessert.

Blood and guts here. No trip to France is entirely successful without a good andouillette and a good boudin noir.

Oui.

To paraphrase the old saying, if you have to ask what you're getting, you can't afford it. It would be interesting to post a few of the lavish New Year's Eve menus starting with AD/PA.

No place listed here requires a necktie; in fact I'm not sure there are any restaurants left in the city that do. (Are there?) A few places require jackets for men, but I don't believe that's the case at Bouley, Picholine, or Union Sqaure Cafe. Places may not require a jacket and tie - but when you look at the pictures of the lunch places in the NYT this week - well I think most guys would feel out of place without a jacket and tie (except for media moguls from the west coast - and my husband isn't one of them!). Robyn My recollection of the NY Times article was not only did if feature different restaurants than Fat Guy mentioned, but a diffferent class of restaurant. The power broker lunch places may still require a jacket and tie. You will eat very well at these places, but food is not the primary reason most people eat there.

Recently? There was a thread here a good year ago on this same subject. I believe the "club" opened in November 2002. Yes. I heard from sources that can be described as relliable, but also as friends of his, that the food was very good, at least at the preopening dinners. Farnabe went on to open his own restaurant on First Avenue uptown, but that's closed. I don't know whether to feel bad that I regularly get faxes reminding me they're open for business or to feel good that my name is consistently misspelled. My understanding is that one needn't be a member to eat there, but it's possible this privilege is restricted to a small number of people chosen by Bruno Jamais. As noted in the earlier thread, Bruno had access and connections to the regular diners at both Daniel and AD/NY where he was employed after he left Daniel.

I'm a fan of Balthazar, but I don't think I've seen hanger steak on the menu, and at peak dining hours the noise can be terribly distracting, but with only two people at the table, you can usually conduct a conversation. The mussels are good and the bread and fries are excellent. I've never had cheese or charcuterie there and don't know what kind of selection they have. The suggestion to go later in the evening when the crowd may thin out a bit is a good one in my opinion. I've almost always had a wait of 15 minutes or more even with a reservation at peak hours. For a table in the bar area without a reservation the wait can be a hour. Pastis, the sister restaurant to Balthazar is, if anything, noisier, but it's further west in the Village and just south of Chelsea. The menu is different and I haven't been there very much, so I can't say as much about it. There's a place around the corner from Balthazar, le Jardin Bistro that used to have hanger steak and mussels on their regular menu. As I recall the hanger steak was pretty dependable, but on the whole, the place suffered from inconsistency, although probably a good buy at the price. I don't recall their having cheese, and charcuterie was limited to a pate.

I've been told one cannot function for long under the influence in a three star restaurant. The performance level demanded is just too great. If you know something I don't, well that's another story.