Bux

At Arpège, the least expensive half bottle of red wine was somewhere approaching 150 euros, so we ordered a couple of glasses of red wine to go with our pigeon. I recall paying about 22 euros a glass for a Languedoc wine that I also seem to recall ran about half that or less, a bottle in NYC, but I won't refute the assertion that 15X is excessive mark up, even though Ducasse is not alone.

Don't ask me. I've never made a profit where I've intended to do so. Fortunately my good luck has almost balanced out my bad luck, but that's another story. Whenever I hear the numbers required to get a restaurant off the ground, I'm surprised any of them ever make a profit before the initial lease runs out. My recollection is that when Daniel Boulud redid the space on 65th Street, the figure that was mentioned in the press was 12 million dollars and of course, that was when a million dollars was worth a million dollars, or if not that much, then at least more than it is today. Of course not every restaurant has to make that kind of investment. According to the article in the Times the other day, it seemed that Per Se was the bigggest restaurant in the new complex and also the one with the least dining space. Some reasonably successful restaurants, albeit not those as spectacular as I expect Per Se to be, operate out of remarkably small kitchens. Blue Hill is a good example. L'Astrance in Paris is a great example. Still it's a major investment and I wonder how restaurants actually make a profit, although clearly some do. One of the things that would also trouble me is the public's fickle taste. There are a lot of restaurnats around and there always seem to be more opening. They're all your competition for what's probably a static market. I mean I don't think many restaurants are going to be able to draw people who weren't already diners out. Everytime a new restaurant opens, there's not a new set of customers. Each new restaurant has to feed from the same group of diners already eating out. At best, you can hope to open when the ecomony is good as the pool of diners does fluctuate with the economy.

OK-- but that's not the Loire; that's the Indre-et-Loire.... The Loire is about 300 more miles upstream towards Lyon. The Loire départment is far from Azay-le-Rideau, but the entire river is the Loire and many people refer to the Loire Valley, or more specifically both sides of the river from Orléans to Angers or even Nantes. as "the Loire." There should be a market on Wednesday mornings in Azay-le-Rideau. Tours is 28 k away with larger markets, especially on the weekends. You should run into the garlic fair in Tours late in July and maybe you'll still be there for the apple fair in Azay-le-Rideau in late October. You run across other produce, wine and harvest fairs while you're there. You're a ways west of the Solonge, but you should have some selection of game by early October. We had two great meals in the Loire Valley in October of 2002. Unless one absolutely needs the creativity of a Gagnaire or Adria, I really can't recommend better places to dine than le Lion d'Or in Romorantin and Domaine des Hauts de Loire near Onzain. In fact, in a year that saw us at both Gagniare and El Bulli, meals at both of these two star inns were standouts in terms of pure satisfaction and enjoyment. They're hardly bicycle rides from Azay-le-Rideau unfortunately and may even suggest on overnight. The Domaine des Hauts de Loire has magnificent grounds, but both offer great comfort. I have another recommendation that's about the same distance in the other direction and I have to say it's a long shot as I've never been there. Many years ago, I read about a little restaurant--Les Tonnelles in Behuard--on an island in the Loire near Angers. Actually it's right between Savennières on the north and Coteaux du Layon on the south and was supposed to have a great cellar of sweet white wines from the area. It stuck in my mind and once when we were driving south from Brittany to the Languedoc, I managed to time it so were nearby at lunch time on a Sunday. Unfortunately, I neglected to reserve, the place was packed with locals who had just left church--we heard the bells as drove on to the island. I've always felt this was the find that got away. I've mentioned it to others from time to time, but never gotten back a report. As I said, it's a long shot, but if you're planning on being near Angers at lunchtime, you might consider it, especially if you're a fan of Quarts de Chaume, Bonnieux, etc. The biggest drawback to the area will probably be tourism, especially in August. Even in late October, I was surprised at the busloads of tourists at Chenonceaux, but after early September the crowds should thin out at most of sites. I'd enjoy the countryside away from the famous sites during the summer. We'll be looking for regular reports.

What are the abstract goals here? Is the writer interested in a writing career in general, preferrably outside the culinary arena? If reviewing restaurants is even a minor consideration, any commercial connection with the restaurant industry is likely to be a red flag to any respectable culinary or general interest publication when hiring a restaurant reviewer. If one wants to review art or movies, fine. If one wants to review restaurants on the east coast, maybe. If it's restaurant reviews in the same region as the one in which advertising copy is being written, the best advice is to keep that part of life a secret. That a current employer has no problem with a writer doing both and using the same byline also says a lot.

It's common for a publication to allow reviews to be reprinted as advertisements. I don't know how an advertorial is any different from any other advertisement once it's identified as advertisement. I've seen negative reviews reprinted with a positive spin in the most credible publications. Maybe I'm missing something on this comment.

Using an assumed name is short term. Eventually, if you develop as a food writer / reviewer, it will likely become known that at one point in your career you wrote paid reviews, your opinion was (and who knows maybe still is) for sale. That stigma can only damage your credibility in the long term. I would caution against taking the copywriting job because of its close association with the professional career, but I believe many people have gotten away with keeping their commerical nom de plume separate from their professional ones and I understand the pragmatic issues. To not understand the professionally harm most likely to ensue from writing both columns under the same name is what puzzles me. It doesn't sound as if the writer has though much about a real future as a professional culinary writer.

I'd ask why advertising is passed off as a "review" of any kind. It it's stated that it's an ad type thing, the blurb should not have a byline. If the "guy you know" (sort of like the copywriter who used to have a reputation as a critic) is signing his name to something that's neither factual reporting or honest person criticism, his future is in advertising not culinary journalism. Bullshit. There are only two assumptions that can be made. They are exclusive of each other. The first is that a food writer wrote an honest review that was so favorable to the restaurant that they chose to pay to have it reprinted. The only other alternative is that the writer's opinion is always for sale at the right price. There you go. That's the most pragmatic advice you can get. Advice on eGullet - free; Your talent as a writer - two bits a word; Your byline - priceless The byline gives the advertisement the respectibility of the reputation of the person whose byuline it is, at the expense of the ultimate value of the byline. I'm not sure you understand the morality or ethics involved here at all. The writer has to make several choices. He can pur himself on a professional pedestal and and refuse to do the hack work. He can choose to do the commerical copy writing as a way of earning a few bucks and polishing his craft by keeping the two jobs as sepately as his conscience will allow or he can prostitute his good name in public. You just can't write advertising copy for restaurants and do restaurant reviews under the same name and maintain any credibility for that byline. If you think you can sign both columns with one name and the public will understand that one is your opinion and the other is an ad, ask the editor and advertising manager if you can can clearly state "the following advertisement appearing under my name does not reflect my honest assessment of the restaurant" at the head of every advertising column.

It's an interesting word for which I can't offer an exact English equivilent. I've heard that the Eskimos, with their vast experience, have many different words for the different forms of snow, whereas the French have one word to describe the essence of several different tastes. Moelleux, which I believe comes from moelle (marrow) can be used to describe a wine is sweet, a cheese that has a smooth ripe texture, etc. As Louisa says, "it's a soft, luscious, mouth-feel kind of thing."

I think I've already commented favorably on both Chez Michel and C'Amelot. Le Pre Verre was on my list of places to check out on our October 2003 trip, along with two or three times as many places as we would have lunches and dinners. We didn't get there, but a very trusted source had written " Le Pre-Verre - a very simple new-style bistro in the 5th - a sweet place for a lunch" in response to a request for information about new places in Paris.

For many of us, the lure of Europe has been the pace, the idea of a liesurely lunch and a cup of coffee in a cafe rather than "to go." For many Europeans now, the liesurely pace of life means they can't compete in the international market. "Fast" is no longer something to be sneered.

If I remember correctly, the tables are so large at Le Bern that you can hardly see your companion, let alone speak to her. Maybe I'm just tiny. The lighting is good, and unless one equates romantic with a clandestine liason, that shouldn't be a problem. I have seen people treat a restaurant dining room as if it were a hotel room, but for someone who has a more private place to go after dinner, I find the temporary abstinance from unbridled passion actually works in a positive manner. Those with exhibitionist tendancies and those who like to explore love on the edge, might want enough cover to make it both possible and challenging, however.

Louisa, medieval fantasy figurines just seem so much more ... French, than Lewis Carroll fantasy figurines. I'm still enough of a tourist to be disappointed to find my childhood stories hiding in a French pastry, though I suppose the English would be as disappointed to find Alice in America where they'd want cowboys and Mickely Mouse. Adam, thanks for the historical correction to the drift of this thread. Mince meat is something I think many only read about. In fact, for most of my life, I think I thought of in the same vein as "Welsh Rabbit." I.e. not meat and not rabbit. Okay, rarebit doesn't even resemble a rabbit, but chopped fruits and nuts can resemble minced meat, although I don't think I've come across a really vegetarian mince meat. Those that don't contain minced meat, usually contain beef suet. I think this is all very much more British, and possibly more common in the other old British colonies than in America. It seems rather medieval to me. Other recipes for ground meat and fruit, mainly raisins, with which I am aware seem to come from Arab influence in Sicily and southern Italy and Spain, as well as it's old colonies. Empanadas stuffed with beef and raisins come to mind. There is also, in Pezenas, a town in the Bas Languedoc north of Beziers, a local pastry called Pate Pezenas which is a small sweet pastry with a minced meat stuffing. The galette des rois commonly sold in Pezenas is the traditional one sold in Paris, a ring of puff pastry with almond filling.

That's an unexpected comment, only because almost everyone seems to find the decor at le Bernardin to be corporate and I assume most people don't find that romantic. I happen to like the way le Bernardin looks and always have. It's always seemed warm and comfortably luxurious in an understated manner. Table spacing, as I recall, is pretty good and that might be added value in terms of romance. Nothing like hearing the conversation at other tables, or worse yet, fearing they hear you to ruin the mood. I generally don't share others people's notion of romantic dining however. I like a well lit room with good food. When I'm eating I like the food to star and I like to be able to see my table companion as well as the food. Fortunately my wife shares my taste in restaurants, which is ultimately the major factor in a romantic dinner.

Jellybean just posted a link to the Patiwizz web site in another thread. Patiwizz is a French pastry chef supply house. I noticed two links to santons on the home page currently featuring galettes des rois. These santons are be used as favors in a galette des rois. There are the sacred Santons Santibelli and the rather more profane, or secular, Santons Alice au Pays des Merveilles with Alice, the queen of Hearts, the Mad Hatter, etc. Pays des Merveilles literaly "land of marvels," is, of course, "Wonderland."

We were in Galicia in January 1999. That's not quite recent enough to have much to say that's pertinent, but I'll start by adding my recommendation for Restaurante Roberto in San Xulian de Sales (near Santiago). We had rather simple and traditional seafood preparations for our savory dishes, but inventive desserts. There was a Belgian waiter/sommelier at the time and with few diners on winter weekday night, he had a lot of time to devote to talking to us. It's a simple place. When he asked if I would like to see the wine celler, I was rather surprised to be taken to to a residentially sized wine refrigerator in the kitchen where he pointed out a selection of older, rarer and mostly French wines. We drank a recent vintage Albariño, by the way. The lady of the house, who I believe is the wife of the chef was very sweet and gracious. In Pontevedra, we ate at Doña Antonia, where I distinctly recall a carpaccio of lubina w/lemon juice & olive oil--Ensalada Lubin on the carte. We asked if it was a new dish and were told it's been on the menu for some ten or fifteen years as I recall, but that only recently have locals been willing to try raw fish. If memory serves, I think Doña Antonia had a star, but I see it doesn't in the current Michelin though it has a Campsa sol. I also believe the chef is a daughter of Toni Vincente who has a very well respected restaurant in Santiago de Compostela and that there's another restaurant in Pontevedra with another famility member in the kitchen. As I recall, it was closed for annual vacation when we were there and our choice was therefore made for us. Toni Vincente is probably an obvious choice and would have been for us, had it not also been closed. One "find" for us, although of no creative interest, was Reveca, a rather plain family restaurant in A Cañiza, in the province of Pontevedra near the border. It may not be worth recommending to a native or to someone from Portugal, but as foreigners we lucked out by ordering simple food. Bacalao Reveca (olive oli, red peppers & sliced potatoes) and roast Cabrito Lechal. Maybe this is the kind of food that's hard to find poorly prepared anywhere in the vicinity or maybe local connoissseurs would have been less impressed, but we loved the food, and found the portions big enough to share. It was a Sunday lunch and the place was packed in contrast to the empty restaurants we generally enountered in Galica and Castilla-y-León, although I credit the day rather than the food for most of that. I mean the food was excellent, but equally so at places that were empty on other days. The deserts we had were forgetable. The La Toya Hotel, closed for the season when we were in the area, fascinated us. It seemed very much a place that hasn't changed it's style over the years and a bit of a time capsule, although it seemed as if the island was very developed with modern residences. It seemed like a comfortable and restful place, though perhaps in the summer season if full of families it might seem quite different. Above all, it seemed quite local and we wondered if it got many visitors from northern Europe.

"Rouille is served traditionally with Bouillabaisse and Aioli wit Bourride." This is what I've been told by those who ought to know about tradition, bouillabaisse and bourride, but as Marcus points out, those who are carrying on the Marseille traditions by making a living selling bouillabaisse, don't seem to make these distinctions. I'm wondering if bouillabiasse just isn't what it used to be, if it's a matter that the hype is more than any dish can live up to, or if those with memories of past bouillabaisses are too focused on a particular version of a dish that's basically one that's never had a single absolute recipe. I suspect that for many of us, our first bouillabaisse may set the standard. My first bouillabaisse was had in Marseille at a rather moderate middle class restaurant and was a simple affair of two of three fishes and soup served apart from each other in two courses sometime in the mid sixties. As anyone can verify, that's when French cooking was French. Okay, I could put a smiley there, but food is invariably tied to the culture and time is essential as place. The dish I had was probably not the most complex version nor the best one available at the time, but it has for me the stamp of authenticity because of its place in my history.

On the whole it's not for several reasons. Most gites are not likely to pay a commission and there's no profit motive for a travel agent. Assuming that either the traveler is paying a fee or that there's a commission from the airfare bringing in enough revenue, and the agent wants to do the client a favor, the time involved in finding one could be prohibitive, but the biggest reason is that most rentals end up being a pig in a poke and the chance of an unhappy client is too great a risk. Gites are also likely to be more spartan than other rentals. In rare situations, an agent might have some local contacts, either friends or professional contacts that could provide a reasonable guaranty, but for the most part, the only way an agent would feel able to provide a professional service, is by going through a trusted rental agency. These agencies will have inspected every property they represent and can be trusted to deliver what they promise because they depend on repeat business from travel agencies. The problems here are financial. Keeping up with inspections and advertising, all adds to the price of the rental because these costs have to be recouped and they have to make a profit. The additional cost to the client is a lot like buying insurance. The other point I'd make is that the least expensive places are probably not worth the time and trouble of such a rental agency because their fee would be out of proportion to the rental. If you're looking for a large villa overlooking the Mediterranean, a travel agent will have an easier time finding a rental because this is an international market. Dealing directly with a local rental agent, or better yet directly with an owner, is bound to bring a better price. The problem is that, as already noted in the thread, most rental properties are not all that well equiped or furnished and the prospect of spending a few months in the wrong one doesn't make for an ideal situation.

A textbook aïoli is pretty much a very garlicky mayonnaise and rouille is pretty much aïoli with the addition of hot pepper and sometimes safron. My limted experience tells me that rouille is the traditional accompanyment to bouillabaise. Even purists seem to debate what exactly is traditional sometimes. If a restaurant is serving a safron imbued aïoli rather than a rouille or if it makes its rouille with more safron and less pepper, my guess is that the chef can tell you that's the way his grandmother did it.

Arpège is also open on Monday nights. It's good, interesting and well, as they say, if you have to ask the price ... As above, if you can get a table.

The bad news is obvious for a beach area. I guess the good news is that the beaches, hotels and restaurants are not going to be overrun with tourists from the north of Europe searching for sun and restaurants serving familiar food as has happened on parts of the south and east coasts.

Actually, we'd like to hear about his dinner. Those dishes were so different from the ones we had.

Laduree. They translate macaron as "macaroon" which I've always felt was misleading, but they're not the only ones who do that. We've had the discussion on eGullet before. Hermé worked here and at Fauchon. Anyway, Laduree claims to have invented the macaron as we've come to know it. "At the beginning of the XXth century, Pierre Desfontaine, the grandson of Louis Ernest Ladurée had the idea to stick two of them and to fill them with 'ganache'." Certainly any study of macarons would include a tasting here.

Not smoking increases the odds you will be healthier. That seems like a positive statement. There are three types of food snobs. Let's add those who can tell us what others base their opinion on. I'm half serious here. Some people will actually come out and give a reason that lets you dismiss their opinion as pure snobbism, but often enough there's really a prejudcie invovled in making that decision. One diner may go to the latest Asian-French fusion restaurant because it's a hot trend, while another may go because he likes the food. And still a third may go precisely because it's a hot trend and he's curious about why it's trendy. I find that curiosity a positive intellectual reason while others may just wonder why he cares and dismiss his curiosity as snobbism.

In general, all of our opinions are equal. When it comes to specifics, we all have individual strengths. We all have greater familiarity and knoweldge with certain foods and certain restaurants. We all need to contribute what we know. Some members have wider experiences and it may give them a certain kind of advantage at times, but I don't think anyone's opinion should be dismissed although in fact, most opinions are no more than opinions and not all that meaningful by themsleves. What is meaningful and interesting are the reasons for having an opinion. Still, if I am enamored of haute cuisine, those who love "meat and potatoes" are going to dismiss my opinions on restaurants. In fact, if they come to NY and are neither interested in haute cuisine nor inqusitive about how others eat, they'd do well to avoid the places I think are most distinctive. At the same time, I think one of eGullet's great strengths is the ability it affords all of us to learn about food that is outside of our past experience. I am surprised that many members don't share my curiosity about new foods. I don't dismiss these members, but I suppose I find the outlook boring.

We all get to form and keep our own standards. I do not believe all things edible are of equal value or interest, but I do believe the standards are subjective to a large degree. Those or us who love foie gras may agree on a standard of when it's properly cooked, but we may still disgree on how it should be garnished. Those who don't love foie gras are entitled to their opinion and those who haven't tasted foie gras are entitled not to have tasted it and to decide for themselves if they care to seek it out or not. I don't know anyone who shares my exact tastes, but I tend to search out those whose tastes overlap mine. I find people who eat pig's feet generally more intersting than those who won't. I've always assumed that was one of the reasons people call me a food snob. I've also assumed those who come to this site have a love for food and it's been my observation that most people with a passion for anything, are usually quite opinionated, so I expect to find strong opinions here. They don't offend me and I hope my opinions don't offend others. I would be offened by a request to keep my opinions to myself. I'm not sure I follow the exact nature of your complaint. Let's say someone has never had foie gras (or pigs' knuckles--either one might work in my example). Do you think that person's voice or opinion on the subject is going to be as relevant as someone who had great familiarity with the ingredient? I like offal meat and I would include foie gras in that classification. I've dined with, and enjoyed the company of several members who won't go near tripe or kidneys. I'll dine with them again and consider myself lucky to have their company, but it won't stop me from exclaiming in public that I don't understand why people don't like tripe, or liver and that, I assume will not make those who don't like it feel bad about themselves. That we don't all share the same tastes should be no surprise. I just hope I'm correct in assuming that no one here is calling for anyone else to keep their opinions to themselves if there's a chance those who don't share them will feel deprived or offended.