Bux

From Notes from a recent trip. You might want to get more of an explanation from sumac. From my conversations with her, I would take her to be a knowledgeable and discerning diner.

What Brown hasn't said is that all two and three star restaurants are revisited every year, let alone several times a year. I've always assumed they were and I'm assuming that if they are, Brown would say so. I've not found Michelin faultless, but it's been reliable. Naturally, I may disagree about certain restaurants, especially based on the single meal I've had, but by and large I've respected Michelin largely because I'm assumed they've made the many visits necessary to be assured of constency.

If anything it's too inclusive. I ate at one top-rated bistro that was OK but not that good, and at another that shouldn't have been there at all; nevertheless, it's led me to some good bistros the English guides haven't discovered and I've found it very useful. I could say the same thing about the phone book. It's also too inclusive, but it does include all the good restaurants.

Indeed it does. I had so many open windows, including an extra one of this thread that I copied and pasted the wrong one without even noticing. I've edited my post and with a little luck future readers will not go chasing their own tail because of my mistake. It was all worth it because Lyle's response is the funniest thing I've read here in some time.

We recently spent a few days in San Juan. It was not a particularly happy occasion as we went to be with family and attend the funeral of cousin of Mrs. B who met with an untimely and violent death at the hands or armed robbers. We haven't been back down there for a good many years and our visits have been few since my mother-in-law passed on. As evidenced by my post above, I took a quick look in the forum before we rushed down and we didn't have time to make any reservations before we left, nor did we know what our schedule might be. My comments are on a rather helter skelter choice of restaurants. I should also note that our trip started on its own disaster. Mrs. B had wanted to check out a new inexpensive small hotel in Old San Juan for use by her clients. It looked good on the web and both the web site and industry online booking service noted, free parking and city view for the rooms. Old San Juan can be a bitch to drive in and out of at certain times of day, but since we weren't going for the beach and a location convenient to bars and restaurants would be nice, staying Old San Juan with a place to park would be just great, so we booked a double at the Hotel Plaza de Armas. We arrived and were told the hotel is free of any parking space or facility and were shown to an air-conditioned room without a single window. We were offered a suite with a window at a much higher price than the one at which we reserved. So there we were in San Juan in February without a room. Mrs. B had already passed up the chance to reserve a decent hotel room at a travel agent's discount in order to check this place out. The only good news was that Mrs. B hadn't ever sent a client to the hotel based on the promises of its web site and that I have the opportunity to warn readers of eGullet.com To make a long story short, we opted for a room at the Excelsior in Miramar, a place we've used before when we were in an emergency taking care of family business mode as opposed to vacation mode. These kind of trips can wreck hell on a budget. At some point before we made our final hotel reservation and before we were able to contact my brother-in-law who was at a meeting, I was searching Condado for a place where we could get Cuban sandwich or some sort of snack like that as well as keeping an eye out for a cybercafe. Somehow we managed to get on Loiza Street and I spotted La Tasca de Yiyo and recognized the name from an eGullet post and decided to stop and give it a try The service was very friendly as I've come to expect in places with down home cooking. Here they featured precooked specials of the day. The food was tasty, but not so special. Arroz con pollo was baked chicken with yellow rice on the side rather than the preparation I've come to think of by that name. An avocado salad however, had real taste, as did most of the avocados we had down there. You don't usually find avocados with that much flavor in NYC. Otherwise there's not much for me to say about the place. You used to be able to depend on even better food in local joints all over town or maybe my memories are from a time when I was less discerning about Puerto Rican food. There were different specials every day of the week. Admittedly, Wednesday's list was not the most interesting of menus. Still, for $5.95 it was all I could expect, but I wouldn't go more than a block or two out of my way for what we had. Maybe Thursday's menu is sufficiently better. It looked more interesting. The afore mentioned brother-in-law hadn't been to Ajili Mojili but said he'd heard good things and told us there was valet parking and that we didn't need reservations. There was valet parking and it looked as it our information sources were improving. There was also a forty minute wait for a table. Fortunately by now we were checked into a hotel and adjusting to Caribbean time. Two seats at the bar were most welcome after our morning's logistical problems and a long afternoon at the wake. Two strong rum and sodas didn't make the world a more just place, but they helped us cope with it as it is. By the time our table was ready, we were ready for and upscale version of "Puerto Rican food as the Moms of Puerto Rico cooked it," as Sweet Willie described the food. By and large however, that's not what we found on the menu. This didn't seem the same place likely to have an asopao festival, or a chicken or goat fricasse festival as Miguel Gierbolini described either. Upscale places in Puerto Rico can be just as friendly and unpretentious as at down home places. Unfortunately friendly is not the same as professional. Service was rough. Mains arrived while our appetizer was only half eaten. They were out of the first two wines we ordered. At that point however, the manager arrived to apologize and help us select something in stock. He appeared to know the list and made good suggestions at a reasonable price. We expected a riff on traditional PR food, but found nouvelle latino fusion that didn't cut it for us. Food was a bit weird to our taste and bland. Everything needed zip--maybe a touch of ... ajili mojili. I would have liked to ask for some pique, but it seemed insulting as the place tried to pass itself off as a chef driven restaurant. Tuna with sweet puree (prunes?) and mashed tuber was just a mismatch. The churrasco was less wrong, but the yucca fries (frozen?) were half baked and the salsa too sweet. The mofongo appetizer--mofongo cups filled with bacon were much more successful. With some beers--and some pique--they would have been worth the stop at the bar. We were disappointed. Later conversations with locals indicated the place had changed hands and personality when it moved recently. Maybe the explains the discrepancy between what we expected and what we found. Too bad we got that local view after we ate there. Pikayo Casita Blanca and Tasca El Pescador to follow

In all fairness, foodie52 didn't post to this thread. Her separate post was merged with the thread and then directed to the thread. I'm truly surprised we haven't had more comment on this subject. Are not the rest of you all as surpised as I was to learn of how few inspectors there are and how few visits are made.

The Zagat guide to NY is overrated and under-useful. It's conceptually flawed. I have the same faith in its ratings as I have in the fact that the best man has always been elected. Democracy is flawed when the voters are not intelligent, well versed in the facts and discerning in their judgment. I have heard little positive said about Pudlo either, but I am less will versed with his guide. The Michelin Guide Rouge is peerless, or at least it was until The Michelin Guide feud went public.

The only thing we need to know about history is that it keeps coming around and that we will get the chance to repeat any mistakes we didn't get right the first time. Or as it's been explained to me, history will kick you in the ass every time. Okay, someone had to find the thread I mentioned earlier and I was probably the designee. I suppose that's why I have the corner office with my title on the door (at least in this virtual reality called eGullet). Everyone should stop and read Bistros, Bistro Cooking, paying particular attention to my posts of July 1, 2003, before continuing on with this thread. There will be a test on Monday. Required reading for the course is any of the menus from establishments mentioned in this thread. Extra credit will be given for field research.

To add my opinion regarding Chez Michel, let me note that we were there with friends a few years ago. It's an exceptionally informal place, but it was packed then and I'm sure it's full just about every night. I wouldn't walk in expecting to find a table. The neighborhood is not exaclty restaurant row and you will have few other options. There's little better advice than that when going out for dinner in Paris, even at a local bistro. In fact, even when you're sure they won't be full, calling ahead for a reservation is taken as a sign of respect and it may get you a bit a favorable attention. And if it doesn't, it doesn't take much effort anyway. This is advice I give but I'm not necessarily good about following it, to my regret. I trust everyone's aware that John Whiting's site is an excellent place to inform oneself about the where, why and what of bistro dining in Paris.

Jubilee--midtown east--is great for mussels and fries. I can't say I've ever had much more there. I don't know why. It's possible that I go there thinking of mussels and fries, that I've ordered other things that didn't please but don't really remember when, or just that nothing else appealed on the menu. Tables are small and when four people are having moules frites, there's just not enough room on the table to put everything. Demarchelier opened a place on Houston street some time back. We tried it. It was one of the saddest evenings. Nothing was really acceptable. It went from bad to worse. I know it was new, but we couldn't bring oursleves to return. It was a totally depressing evening. I overtipped the waiter because I was sure he'd be out of work soon.

Good question Margaret, but I don't think it's up to us tourists to keep restaurants afloat, at least not singlehandedly. I know I just don't have time to explore new restaurants and revisit old ones in foreign cities, even those I return to regularly, as I do at home. Here in NY, when a restaurant opens, I know I can take my time about eating there. It will still be there later in the year and if not, it probably wan't worth my time and money anyway. In Paris, I don't know if I'll return again that year, or even the next. The problem is not in deciding where to eat, but in deciding where not to eat. The last time I was in Paris I had a few reservations and a list of other places that interested me. I didn't make all of them and the list grew as I was there. At home, however I often return to favorite restaurants. In fact, I feel the need to take friends and visitors to them so I'm bound to return.

Au Lyonnaise has all the hallmarks, or is it earmarks, of a bistro. It's been a traditional bistro with good reputation for some time. Ducasse recently became more than a consultant, he's become part owner. I think I said that above. Hmm, if no one is going to read what I write, I think I'm going to get a paying job. Ducasse has bought or invested in other places in France in other to preserve them, and perhaps make a euro or two as well. All the more power to him. I thought Aux Lyonnaise was an excellent restaurant and good value as well. I'll also swear it was in the 2nd arr., but it's on the cusp of the 9th, I think.

Quelle horreur. The check without asking for it is especially un-French or at least un-traditional. The speed of the meal is something else. I do not like to eat like that, even in the states. We, Mrs. B and I, are far more likely to complain about the speediness of a meal than the time we have to wait between courses, although that can be stretched into the absurd as well. We have been spending more time in Spain and naturally eating more meals in Spanish restaurants and we've been astounded at how soon our food arrives. In wonderful restaurants, or should I say restaurants with wonderful food, I find myself taking the last bite of a dish as the server is standing next to me with my next course. I've written about this in the Spain forum and had the response from one Spanish food critic was that he knows of a chef in the north of Spain who tells his waiters to deliberately slow the meal down when there are French tourists at the table. The Spanish, oddly enough and at great surprise to me, generally like to pace their meals much faster than the French. There are a great many differences between eating and dining and the pace of the meal is just one of those. There is, of course, that one step down called feeding, but it's generally reserved for those one step down on the food chain.

The letter "t" of course. Sharp eyes pan. I will swear we've had this discussion before. I suppose we will have it again and I really should search for the original thread, if only so as I give the same answer and not be embarrassed by the person who finds both threads. I've long believed bistrot is the French spelling and bistro the American spelling, but upon careful observation I've found both spellings in France. Bistro seems to be the hipper more modern spelling and possibly an American influence. If I find that thread, I'll remember what a French chef said to me about those two spellings.

I've never claimed to have eaten better at a haute cuisine temple of luxe than at a good bistro. Often times the bistro meal is more rewarding, but what can I say, I find a certain kind of intellectual stimulation in haute cuisine. It is an addiction. One doesn't seek value from one's opiate. It is however pleasing to have a stimulating conversation about bistros.

It's wonderful just how personal all the replies are so far. I appreciate all the names and I think that if anyone would make it a point to visit them all in succession over the course of a visit they'd have had a meaningful visit by the time the trip was over, but few of us will have the time and few of us will have the inclination to devote ourselves to bistros for the course of our visit. I wonder if we could get a bit more personal about each choice. It doesn't have to be to the extent of Louisa's blog, but a few sentences would be nice. Don't be offended, I'm grateful just for the names, myself. I don't know if I have a favorite and my visits to Paris have been all too brief lately to allow me to run the gamut of different types of places that I need to visit to make my visit seem complete. It's been quite a while since I've been to la Régalade, and of course it's run by a chef with Michelin star experience and thus somewhat retro or self-consciously bistro, but what impressed me most, was that it reminded me of the kind of food I first encountered when I first came to France over forty years ago on a budget eating in small restaurants and bistros with simple honest wine, with one difference--the food was even better than I remember. That's no mean feat as I've found that's the kind of food that's either deteriorated or which often no longer impresses me. My most recent bistro experience is with a similar operation. This time it was Aux Lyonnais, an old establishment that's been bought by the team of Ducasse and the owner of l'Ami Louis. Once again, one might fear some sort of self conscious operation. We found a simple menu of wonderfully prepared food with an attention to detail and quality that should be heartwarming to any gastronome. Both places unfortunately have received too much coverage in English language press. Another place we've enjoyed very much was Au C'Amelot. Victor de la Serna had some very nice things to say about it here, although I don't know I'd support the contention that it's the antithesis of a 'gastronomic place'. I suppose it depends on whether indulgence is a necessary part of "gastronomic." Perhaps it is. More than one chef has more than one restaurant, and most of them refer to their haute cuisine restaurant as the "gastronomic" one. I'm just too happy to confer "gastronomy" on simple food, if it's really done well. The single fixed price and fixed choice menu may also not say bistro to some, but it's good food at a very good price.

There are few, if any, alcoholic beverage laws that are broader than statewide. I believe the repeal of prohibition left control of alcoholic beverages to the individual states. In some states, the laws vary from county to county and may not even be the same across the county.

It was simply not allowed. We did not wait to see what the penalties were. I hope I'm not derailing this thread, but since I know you are married to a Frenchman and living in France, how has that affected you now that you are immersed in French culture? Americans, and others I suppose, take certain forms of etiquette as a moral issue and one of natural law and breeding. I'm rather sure that there's no stigma attached to putting one's elbows on the table in France, but putting one's hands in your lap at the dinner table is rather less than acceptable behavior. Manners are often the product of reasonable thought and designed to enble smooth social interactions, but often they are arbitrary and vary from locale to locale. What's a gracious gesture in one part of the world, is extremely offensive in another part of the world

One of the nicests aperitifs I've had has been a bottle of coteaux du layon served with some little roquefort filled pastries. It was served to us by an American food writer in Paris.

In addition to kir, there are a lot of wine based aperitif drinks, some of which use spirits such as brandy.

That's shocking. I mean it's almost earth shaking to read about wine related legislation that actually might make some sense and favor the consumer. Of course it will also help the industry by making it a bit more attractive to order a bottle in a restaurant rather than a glass or two of wine.

Thanks for this blog. I've referenced the meals in Strasbourg in the France forum.

Pim has a food blog running in the General Food forum. It covers a week when she goes from California to Germany to Alsace and there's a great report, illustrated with photographs. on lunch at Julien and dinner at Buerehiesel, but the whole report is worth reading.

One point I'd like to make is that very few wine areas treat visitors the way Napa and Sonoma do in California. I'm not saying Freckles is expecting it, but it's rare to find the welcome and tours found in California. This is not to say that all California vinyards welcome guests and tasters or that none of them do in Burgundy. About forty years ago I recall a visit to the Drouhin cellers that did not require an appointment. I have no idea if they still welcome tourists like that. Drouhin is a negotiant. We didn't see any vineyards. As I recall the caves were in Beaune. Clos Vougeot was also open to tourists, although I don't recall a full visit. It may have been more of just going around the property. I recall reading about Olivier Leflaive having a place that serves lunch and offers a tasting of a good many of his white wines in Puligny-Montrachet that has always sounded worth looking into. There's a Wine Spectator article about Burgundy that has suggestions for visits. Unfortunately it dates back to 1997 and the information may not be up to date. I know there have been some posts and even some threads about Beaune that are worth finding and reading.

I was there once last year, but we dined with a friend who had been there only a week before he joined us for another meal and he assured me that there was but one duplication in his meal. When you consider he's allergic to fish and seafood and that Adria's offerings are heavily seafood oriented, you get some idea of the range at his command at any meal. If I haven't been specific, Adria substituted an appropriate dish for every course for our friend while we ate the menu of the day.