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Wolfert

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Everything posted by Wolfert

  1. Heleanas. A correctıon needed here. Presently. I am ın Turkey and am fındıng jars of red pepper flakes on restaurant tables EVERYWHERE. A few are even the qualıty of Marash pepper.
  2. <ı would not be embarrassed. Tangıa ıs a specıalty of the south---maınly marrakech. <I doubt ıt has anythıng to do wıth Tangıers
  3. <ı would not be embarrased. Tangıa ıs a specıalty of the south---maınly marrakech. <I doubt ıt has anythıng to do wıth Tangıers
  4. Wolfert

    Sea Beans

    A good marinade for fresh sea bean tips is to combine chopped onio, red pepper flakes, hazelnut or walnut oil, and mild vinegar or verjus. Marinate the beans for about an hour then mix with arugula and add salt to taste. "Along the Aegean and Turkish Mediterranean coasts, sea baeans are boiled and served with a tarator sauce. Check any Eastern Mediterranean cookbook for a recipe.
  5. I don't have a problem about today, but I admire your solution.
  6. Sorry for the confusion. The dinner at London Grill is this coming Sunday.
  7. If you are in the neighborhood of the museum on Sunday, please think about coming to the dinner at the London Grill. The chef is preparing a slew of dishes from my new book.
  8. Mousse aux Olives Douces et au Citron Sweet olive and lemon mousse If you plan to publish this, please credit my book. c\p.wolfert. Mediterranean Cooking, revised edition New York: Harper Collins,1994 The fresh-tasting crisp, medium-green picholine olive has just a hint of sweetness. Could this have been French chef Roger Verge's inspiration for a similar dish served at his restaurant in Mougins? Makes about 3 3/4 cups, serving 6 to 8 10 ounces (2 1/4 cups) green olives, preferably French picholine l cup plus 2 teaspoons fine sugar 2 cups water 2 egg whites, at room temperature 2 organic lemons l envelope (1/4 ounce) unflavored gelatin 2 cups heavy cream l l/2 teaspoons pernod Prepare step l the day before. 1. Rinse olives. Place between paper toweling and gently smash each olive with a mallet to remove pit. Cover olives with water, bring to a boil, and drain. REpeat this procedure three more times. Taste the olives. They should no longer be bitter; if they are, boil again and drain. Place 1/2 cup of the sugar and 1 1/2 cups in a small saucepan. Heat stirring, until sugar dissolves. Add olives, invert a saucer over olives to keep them submerged in liquid and bring to a boil/ Simmer slowly for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let soak for at least l day. 2. The following day, put 23 tablespons water in a small saucepan and stir in 1/2 cup sugar. Place over low heat and cook until sugar dissolves. Raise the heat and bring to a boil. Boil slowly until a candy thermometer registers 240 degrees. While syrup is boiling, slowly beat egg whites with an electric beater until they froth. Raise speed to medium and beat until peaks form. Remove syrup from heat. Reduce speed and pour hot syrup in a slow steady stream onto whites, continuing to beat at low speed until whites are shiny, stiff, and cool to the touch. Set aside to cool completely. 3. Put remaining 2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan, sprinkle on gelatin and set aside to soften for 10 minutes. 4.Drain olives, reserving syrup. Put about 2/3 of the olives and 1/4 cup syrup in a blender or food processor and puree. If puree is not smooth, press through a sieve. reserve syrup and remaining olives. 5. using a vegetable peeler, remove zest from lemons. cut into very fine strips and blanch in boiling water for l minute. Drain and refresh under cold water Simmer in the remaining syrup for 5 mintues and drain. Discard syrup. spread lemon strips on a rack to dry. Use a fork to separate any stangled strips. 6. Place saucepan of softened gelatin mixed with olive puree over low heat and warm gently, stirring until gelatin completely dissolves, 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, stirring ever 5 mintues to keep mixture from setting. 7. In a chilled mixing bowl, whip the heavy ctream and remaining 2 teaaspoons sugar until just stiff enough to form soft peaks. Transfer one third of the cream to a small bowl and flavor with pernod. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. 8.The whipped cream, beaten egg whites, and olive -gelatin mixture should be the same temperature before combining. Carefully fold one quarter of the whipped cream int the olive mixture to lighten. Gradually and gently fold remaining cream and then egg whites into the olive mixture until thoroughly blended. Carefully spoon mixtuer into 2 quart serving dish. Cover with plastric wrap and chill until ready to serve.] 9. To serve, swirl pernod flavored cream over mousse and decorate with remaining syrupy olives and lemon strips. Tana: this is truly delicious.
  9. Back about 20 years, I tasted a sweet olive and lemon mousse at Roger Verge's restaurant in Mougins. He used crisp, medium-green picholine olives, lemons, and pernod. If you need the recipe I can post it. It is also in the revised edition of my Mediterranean Cooking.
  10. I love kabocha squash in couscous . To enhance the flavor, I cut it into cubes, then bake them for a short time in a medium oven so that they cook in their own moisture and retain their natural sweetness. Then when I add the to the simmering spiced stock, the cubes absorb its flavor too----kabocha seems to absorb the flavoring for almost anything cooked with it.
  11. Check out the prawn cocktail years by simon hopkinson. You get sort of a cook's tour of the great post war hotels and gentlemans clubs. Jimmy Villas has some very funny stories about those years in one of his books.
  12. For making preserved lemons with wax coating. I think you should soak away the wax coating before immersing them in a salt and lemon juice brine. Don't you?
  13. Wolfert

    Preserved Lemons

    ras el hanout forumlas are everywhere but gathering all those spices will cost ya. After trying lots of blends created by different spice merchants around the US, I decided to try Nigella Lawson's recommendation of seasonedpioneers.com based in Liverpool, England. The packets are lightweight and the total price including shipping is under 10 dollars..
  14. Wolfert

    Preserved Lemons

    Have you thought about dehydration for the clementines? If you slice and dry them out in a dehydrator or in a very low oven on parchment paper lined sheets you might like the results. My own experience is the taste is very pure and bright. Use a pair of scissors to cut them up before you add them to the stuffing.
  15. Wolfert

    Preserved Lemons

    In my moroccan cookbook, I do not suggest refrigerating the lemons. Fifi,, you are right no one refrigerates them in Morocco. The reason I changed my recipe in later cookbooks: many people showed up at my cooking classes with weird smelling specimens and I freaked out. My editors and I decided to suggest storing them in the fridge to keep any lawsuits at bey. the five or seven day preserved lemon doesn't keep. You must use them as soon as possible. As for the salt question: use coarse sea salt or kosher.
  16. Quite a few years ago, I watched Ariane Daguin prepare the a Hudson Valley \D'artagnan breast in the following manner: remove from the fridge about l hour before cooking; rinse and pat dry with paper towels; trim away a little of the fat; score the skin in a crosshatch pattern slighlty on a slant without piercing the flesh; sprinke the fat side with salt and some peppe ; and set aside while heating a large heavy bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add a tablespoon of duck fat to the hot skillet. Place duck breast, flesh side down, and brown for about l minute. Turn the duck over, reduce the heat to medium low or even low, and sprinkle flesh with salt and pepper. Cook over reduced heat, fat side down only, for about 15 minutes or done to your taste in the rare lane PLEEZE. Leave the duck to rest on a wooden board for a few minutes then cut thin slices on the diagonal. Throw out the fat and deglaze the pan then add some cooked olives or some dried marinated fruits or whatever you like.
  17. Thank you. I, too, think they are terrific. Noticing your name "woodburner" you might be interested in some of William Rubel's work in his magaic of the fire cookbook. He roasts eggs in the fireplace. I worked with him on my latest book and he created a slow oven baked egg recipe for me that tastes very similar to those baked in embers. The recipe is in my new book but if you don't have it I'll gladly send a copy of the recipe. Another discovery I made was to cook eggs in their shells in an empty crockpot with the heat set on low..It simulated a roasted egg. Mind you, these eggs don't come out with runny yolks but the taste, texture and color are extraordinary and delicious with anchovy vinaigrette. Are you familiar with the Velasquez painting of an old woman poaching eggs in olive oil in a terracotta dish?. Everything is very static except for the eggs which seem (the longer you stare at the painting) to coagulate and form around the egg!.
  18. I am sure I wrote about slow cooked eggs in their shells not poached eggs in the wit and wisdom section. f you do them out of the shell an a glass or custard cup you will need to up the external temperature to boiling to get them to coddle properly. On some other forum, I offered the Arzak method of poaching eggs in individual plastic wrapping amd simmering in water for 7 minutes then dropping the cooked eggs in ice water to stop the cooking. Reheated for an instant in hot water before untying the ties and removing the wraps . This is really a neat trick because it produces a perfectly round-shape poached egg with with teh yolk in the center.
  19. what I like about the arzak method is you create a perfect ball with the yolk in the center. The white is evenly cooked and the yolk runneth 0
  20. Wolfert

    Preserved Lemons

  21. While working on my latest book on slow cooking, I learned from French scientist Herve This about a breakthrough experiment showing that the best way to cook a three-minute egg is to cook it for one hour at a temperature at 140 F or 60 C. "The yolk will remain soft, but the white will firm up." Dr This told me. The extremely low temperature used for cooking is not dangerous. According to late British scientist,hProfessor Nicholas Kurti, the one hour cooking killed one million salmonellas that had been introduced on purpose. Using this method. called low temperature long time (LTLT), I've poached very fresh AA eggs at temperature between 145 and 155 F and produced the most delicious "three minute" eggs
  22. Wolfert

    Preserved Lemons

    I use 1 tablespoon sea or coarse salt for each lemon plus 1 for the jar. - I'm sure it will turn out okay as long as you really wash each lemon well before using it.
  23. I like St. Agur left out at room temperature for two days before I dig into it...Too bad not much is left for anyone else/
  24. Wolfert

    Cooking Dried Beans

  25. Turkish cypriots use dried melokia and prefer it to the fresh for its intense flavor. the mastic is wrapped in cheeseclotht to keep it from sticking to the side of the pot. I tkink it provides flavor.
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