MobyP

No wonder you've gone so far!

The point surely is about flexibility. No one doubts that a top kitchen running on full speed doesn't want their timing thrown off - or alternatively believes it can produce its best effort when given certain time intervals inbetween sittings. But as Jay said, the restaurant wasn't close to being full - presumably over the course of 50 or 60 weeks, they would have had some impression that this would happen - so that inflexibility becomes a burden placed on the customer, rather than a simple act of generosity - given a quick calculation of how full - or not full - they were likely to be.

Oi - You be nice to Blindy (Blizza? Blind Lezza?) Yeah - noticed the 14.5, and thought it odd only because I would've left more if I'd been given the chance. The service was excellent.

Grouse grouse grouse grouse... I know, I should give a well reasoned review of this, but it was my first time, it's after 8.30, and my IQ just dropped 50 points. I'm feeling effusive, yet strangely stupid. I recommend this very highly to all interested in game. This was serious, grown-up eating. The grouse, cooked perfectly (I imagine), slightly pink in the breast, well done in the thigh, larded with bacon, balanced on a butter-fried crouton covered in creamy sauteed crushed chicken livers, hearts and lungs, with a beautiful but slightly sticky game and veal stock-enriched sauce (madeira, I think), some delicate fresh crisps, and an onion and clove-redolent bread sauce on the side. This was a beautiful meal. The breast meat was full flavoured without being over-bearing. The thigh meat, however, was almost alcoholic in its 'highness.' It literally tasted as if the bottom half of the bird had been resting in brandy for 6 hours before cooking. The maitre explained that the birds were hung for four or five days, and also that they were very mild this early in the season. If I returned in a few weeks, it would be a completely different dining experience - one which many couldn't stomach for its gaminess. The flavours on the plate complemented each other in ways I couldn't begine to describe - the savouriness of the chicken livers I thought would clash with the dark tones of the meat, but instead each supported the other to almost moderate the harsher notes. The gentle sweetness of the bread sauce supported every other note on the plate. The sauce, done well and classically, provided the background support. Just a marvellous plate of food. The service, as always, is warm, efficient, and there when you need them. If anyone else, like myself, want to try this fantastic bird for the first time, I'd recommend Racine's as very safe and comforting place to do so. Price was 20 pounds for the grouse.

Yeah!!! Welcome to eGullet! Have a great meal.

This is bloody terrible news! Why would they switch to a private club? Is anyone else outraged? String 'em up, I say! Damn, obviously I'll have to return and make my feelings known by ordering an extra portion of everything.

Table for 2. 12.30. I'll be wearing a large book on my nose. Feel free to join me.

Does not compute. Gave a large portion of my brain to delivery man when he asked for a tip. the Bombay Bicycle Club. Hmmm....

I went to Cafe Boulud in New York, where they have a lunch deal that charges the dollar amount of the post-messianic century you attend - so in my case it was $20.04 - which for the amazing lunch I had was a stunning bargain.

I've never had Grouse before - so I'm going tomorrow for lunch. Anyone up for it?

I think there's a prohibition on importing them into the states (and Canada). And if there wasn't, it would set you back about 50 bucks a pop. In the UK, they're in the 20-30 quid range. The breast meat is tremendously delicate, rich. The thigh meat is probably far gamier than you would expect. The feed is milk and corn - and you can taste it. The problem with most store bought (free range or otherwise) birds in the US is that they've been bread to be mostly neutral and tasteless - relative to the European birds - with larger breasts to satisfy the market. It's difficult to qualify this as a statement without you tasting some local French birds. As French birds go, the PdBresse is still relatively mild. I picked up a corn fed (Non Bresse) chicken at a local French market, and was blown away at how powerful the taste was. It made me realise that most of the chickens I've eaten in the states or the UK were really tasteless factory-bred shit. Unfortunately, even through somewhere like WholeFoods, there just isn't the market in the US for slow raised, flavour-developed birds, as they take for granted in France. You need to get Adam Balic in on this - what he doesn't know about chickens...

Whole Foods in Santa Fe used to have them canned - and out of desperation, I'd even take that. Otherwise - any way they come. I'd say four pounds would be a healthy maximum, wouldn't you (fresh or frozen that is)? As a refresher, anyway. You're in Albuquerque? I still dream of the tortillas and green chile stew at Frontier restaurant opposite the campus. I usesd to smuggle that stuff in half-gallon buckets. I once tried to bribe a cop with it, but I realised too late I was in Arizona - and what did he know about NM chiles?

Okay - here's the problem: I live in England. Hatch chiles grow 6500 miles away. I need some, and bad. Now, I've found a couple of places that will send me 40 pounds at a time, fresh or frozen, but being a modest sort of fellow, not approaching 300 pounds, I'd rather divide that by ten, and freeze some. Does anyone know of a delivery service that will send International for small orders of that good green stuff?

What you need is a Bombay Bicycle - I recently opened an account with them. They bring me food and beer - I sign over 10% of my life earnings for the next 30 years. Having tasted their curries, I consider this entirely reasonable.

Islington is absolutely miserable to live in or near, unless you choose to never leave, in which case it's great. Trying to get into or out of Islington is an exercise in violent and masochistic futility. Lots of good nosh though. Funnily enough, I could've rented you a place there as well, up until last week. Marylebone also has the major la cornue showroom, not to mention Harley Street if you need a new liver or spleen. V. expensive though. I'd say West London is the best bet.

I remember the wine matching as a bit hit or miss. Sorry - I don't have details.

Alas no - cut off time 5pm, then I'll cancel.

There's something comforting about a really, really harsh review. Thanks for that. I now fear your tongue.

I have a reservation for 7.15 tonight which I can't make - would anyone like it?

Sorry - this too oft quoted statement has become inaccurate. To myself and Jonathan, Ferran Adria said what he really meant was that everyone copied, everyone stole from everyone else - but what was important was to be honest in your influences. Jaime, perhaps your contact with English workmates/friends has given you a different view of how we think of ourselves, but your continual racial sterotyping certainly hasn't been fed by the opinions that you've read on this board.

Lucy - please remember us for photos the next time you make that dish. I have some foie in the freezer, so I might give it a shot. I bought my first PdB yesterday and roasted it last night, Ducasse style. The breast meat was beautiful, fragrant, delicate. The thigh and leg meat though was slightly tougher than I expected. More fibrous. Of course, in the fancy places they usually only serve the breast - but what's the classical thing to do with these sorts of thighs? Throw them in the oven for another 10 minutes?

Origami - thanks. Sounds like you learnt a good deal. Do you have pics off the foie and ravioli?

Thanks for that, PM, and welcome to eGullet. (btw, everyone else should check out his posts on Catalonian restaurants (scroll down), they're well worth reading.) Has Gary "Our Fella in the North" and occasional correspondent been?

He sold it to a one armed man for ten thousand pounds - and was last seen heading to Heathrow airpoirt.

I hear that also about Argentinian beef - but how do we test it? Where's the place to go in London?