MobyP

Do we know how significantly different, if at all, the dinner menu is from that at lunch?

Ellen, thank you. Could you tell me exactly how they carved the bird? Did they take off only the breasts, and send the carcass with thighs back to the kitchen (that skin looks like it's been under a salamander), or did they remove the thighs first, and then the breasts, leaving the carcass?

No, it's about 50 feet off Earl's Court Road. Definitely Japanese.

Has anyone seen, been to or heard of a small Japanese place just off Earl's Court Road? I walked past there the other day, on one of the side streets (a couple of doors down from a Thai supermarket) and it looked very intriguiing.

Had a lovely lunch there recently with Madam Magnolia. If you arrive close to noon, you should get a table. Very much a soul food bistro, with slightly closet haute tendencies. I hear they go rather more upmarket for dinner, but unfortunately I haven't had the pleasure. For the two of us, three courses each plus a couple of glasses of wine, bottle of water etc, I think it came in at around 35 euros a head. So, a bargain.

Came across some notes I wrote to myself from when I had lunch at the WI. The table next to mine were having one of the most wonderfully surreal conversations. I had to drop my knife and fork and write it down. Couple 1 (Man 1 + Woman 1 - for the sakes of this) are in their mid to late 70's, and look as though they had been there weekly since opening. Terribly well spoken in an Enid Blighton sort of way). Couple 2 (Man 2 + Woman 2) in their 50's or 60's. Not related. Similar social background. After being seated, and accepting their menus, they bury their noses to see what each of them fancy. Woman 1: (drops her menu slightly, and peers over the top) "I had some bad news today." (The rest of the table ignore her, still ensconced in their menus. She digs in.) "Some very, very bad news." Woman 2: (looks up at Man 1, cheerfully) "How are you, Derek?" Man 1: "Not very good at all." Woman 2: "Do you like the foie gras?" Man 1: "Oh....(he chews it over) I don't mind it..." Woman 1: "You know Rachel?" Man 2: "Hmm?" Woman 1 (obviously believes Man 2 is deaf): "RA-CHEL!" Man 2: Yes. Woman 1: Has a BRAIN TU-MOR. Man 2 (still not very interested, and wondering if this is entirely suitable conversation for a luncheon): Oh. Woman 2: She having radiation? Woman 1: Ooh yes. Man 2 (to Man 1, who is still ensconced in his menu): Know what you're having? Man 1: Yes! Woman 1: Terrible... Man 2: What is? Man 1 (thinks he's being spoken to) Not telling!

First of all, unless you order the cheaper dishes (and they're aren't many) or lunch specials, the fact that you're going for lunch won't save you that much money. A proper meal at any of those places will cost between 200-350 euros, not including wine, regardless of when you have it. Second, if you're considering that path, are you sure you'll get from the experience what you're looking for? It's a case of culinary toe-dipping. I would reconsider, and if your budget is really that tight, think about spending it on one place for the best meal you can afford, rather than on two meals at two places for their 'B' or 'C' game. You know, why have two cheeseburgers when you can have one truly exceptional prime rib? Also, remember, you'll be there during white truffle season, which may hurt your pocket, but will surely do something magical to your soul if you can bring yourself to order a portion. For a first time visit, I'm not sure Le Cinq is worth your time. The culinary delphic one, Vmilor, has spoken against it (make of that what you will). Taillevant is interesting historically, and I believe they have a newish chef, but I don't think anyone would tell you it's among the very best food in Paris. Arpege is a very serious meal, but for what they do (allegedly) best, the tasting of vegetables, they are astoundingly expensive (300-350 Euros, I think), and it may not be suitable for a first timer on the 3 star scene. They obviously have other dishes, but Passard the chef is really only interested in cooking from his garden these days. The fowl and fish dishes are very limited, and have had several reviews of inconsistency, recently (especially the pigeon, which is the only fowl dish - there are no meat dishes). That leaves Gagnaire. He is a genius, but some of his dishes are really confrontational. His was my second or third 3 star meal, and one of the best of my life. Astonishing, outrageous, perfect, but also incredibly odd, with some excetptionally wierd food that I know many people would have hated (my wife, for instance, among them). Even among his admirers, one out of three or four meals can be a bust, or elements can be - how shall we say - not entirely successful. If you want a safe, uber-luxe meal, with as close to a guarantee of quality as you can ask for, I would suggest different choices. Ducasse - a sort of post-modern, safe take on exceptionally classical cuisine. Le Meurice - very good reviews coming out of this place recently. 2 stars at the moment, but no one (that I've heard) thinks it will stay that way for long. Les Ambassadeurs at the Crillon. As above. Several people will tell you Eric Frechon's Le Bristol. In fact, there's a thread around here somewhere with good pics. I'm not convinced, but Michelin and other people seem to be. If I had one meal left before the electric chair, and I could convince those fine people of Florida to fly me to Paris first, and pay for my lunch second, it would without question be at L'Ambroisie. This is, perhaps, the most unadorned of the Parisian 3 stars, and in food terms, certainly the least ostentatious; but to its fans, also the most sublime. Anyway, best of luck, and let us know how it goes.

Unfortunate that it has to be Patricia Wells who wrote the article. The financial aspects of her career have been tied up so directly with Joel Robuchon (also with DB and Guichard at Jamin with whom she also shares credits under the Robuchon umbrella), that if the same were true of an NYTimes food reviewer who wrote these sorts of pieces, they would be expected to resign in a flat second, or face questions.

You can actually make it up until you take them from the boiling water (and you should always boil them as close to when you made them as possible), oil them lightly, and place in the fridge until you're ready to reheat.

That's the difficult part. Too much flour, and they get gummy. Overcook the potatoes and they get gummy. Pour in a bucket of gum and they get gummy. I'm telling you , it's just impossible.

Thanks. Though the sauceing of the jus is a bit rubbish. Epine artichokes are the small ones, about the size of a rose, also known I believe as violet artichokes. A traditional French recipe for cookiing artichokes is called Barigoule, where after trimming the heads, you poach them in chicken stock, white wine and mirepoix, with garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Once they were finished, I strained and reduced the barigoule stock until it was thick and syrupy, then added about a cup of cream, and used a stick blender to make a foam (courtesy of Matt Grant).

Roast Lable Anglais chicken, stuffed with herbs, with french cèpes, pommes puree, and roast golden beetroot, epine artichokes, chicken jus, and barigoule foam. Bernard Pacaud's chocolate tart with a vanilla cream

Not to worry. In classical French kitchens it's called a jus perlé - and is much coveted.

You're missing my point. It seems unlikely Keller would fire someone for slapping a waiter's hand when he's not there, if he's in the habit of placing "scalding soup terrines" on waiter's hands when he is there. Thus the whole 'assault' issue seems called into question.

A little known historical fact - the single reason Napolean's army never made it through the Russian winter and back to France was because they didn't have Sam in the mess tent. That looks fantastic.

Didn't Ruhlman note in his book that Keller had burned some waiter/bus boy: (Pg245) ""Ah!" Thomas has set the scalding terrine on (the person's) hand... Keller, leaning down an inch or two toward David... says, "I want your attention here." Pot calling kettle black anyone?

Feebee - west london. Italian. River Cafe.

Agreed. As much a condemnation of the UK restaurant scene, as it is of the award system.

Did you go Andy?

Gagnaire was always problematic, but not because of consistency, rather because he generally refuses to do the same thing twice. As his wife has said, he just gets bored. The difference is, when he hits the right note, it's at such an astronomically high level as not to be believed. Even his biggest fans say that 1 or 2 meals out of 4 can sometimes have bad elements or even fail as a whole. I'm glad Matt had a good meal at Bras. I trust his taste buds.

Adam, how about the recipe to that walnut sauce?

Bapi - the next time you're in can you ask if they send care packages with said foie brulée to soft southerners?

NO NO NO!!! I specifically said put the flour ON your computer, make a well, and pour in the other ingredients until soft and squishy!

Superb, Jack. Can I volunteer for boning/chopping/mincing/stuffing duty next time?

I don't know about the discoloration. The issue, I believe (and I might be wrong) was to prevent it foaming, which the incorporation of air would have produced.