cabrales

Steve -- Obviously, five meals at $375 is not the relevant basis for comparison; so the $1875 is not particularly relevant, no?

I note the possibility of tasting white truffles at Menu for only a 10 pound supplement. With amusement, the following is the description by Terry Durack of the Independent of his risotto (appetizer) dish: "'And tonight, we have risotto with white truffles,' says the waiter, spectacularly failing to mention the Pounds 10 supplement . . . . and what I get is a really, really good risotto; the grains of rice distinct and al dente, cooked a little drier than the Venetian style, which dictates the rice should move in a slow wave when the plate is tipped. The truffle is sliced over the top at the table by a white-gloved waiter, but it is not done with any degree of skill. In Italy, it's pfft-pfft, pfft-pfft, and the finest shavings fall like petals. Here, the slices are thick and ungainly, and it takes longer for the heat of the rice to activate their inelegant by seductive aroma." This review shows some of the "quirkiness" of Durack. Who doesn't expect a supplement with a white truffle dish? He should be lucky the supp is only Pounds 10. Furthermore, who would complain about too thickly sliced truffles? I'd be heading over to Menu right now for the white truffle shavings, if I were in London.

Steve -- Well, the power to you if you can pay $100 with tax and tips at each of the five restaurants, which requires you to stick to a $75 food and wine bill before tax and tips. Also, what if it's not a choice and one would eat at the individual restaurants anyhow?

Jason -- It is not a charity event. The price of AmEx events is generally at that level. I hope that the included wines are appropriate. Tips and tax are presumably included, so that the effective price is under $300 for the food and wine components. Also, the event is a special one for Blue Hill, so that, even if there were a premium, it would be justified for certain diners.

For members based outside of London, the following reviews came in over the weekend on Menu: http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/food_an...sp?story=344752 M Norman also reviewed Menu in the Sunday Telegraph. However, a very quick search did not yield the article.

AmEx released the menu for the November 5, 2002 event at Blue Hill: Hors d'oeuvres, by Dan and Mike Creme de Gibier with Foie Gras, Chestnut and Macoon Apple, by Andrew Carmellini of Cafe Boulud Seared Bay Scallops, Sea Beans, Blacck Radish, Smoked Eel, by Wylie Dufresne of WD50 Pepper Crusted Venison, by Scott Bryan of Veritas Chocolate-Caramel Panna-Cotta with Espresso Foam and Caramel Popcorn, by Rocco DiSpirito of Union Pacific Master of Wine presenting the wines will be Roger Bohmrich. Laurent Tourondel is not going to be in attendance. I like the game components from Carmellini and Bryan, although there is no indication of whether the venison is hunted.

pirate -- Note I was not intending to cast blame on F Point. I did check whether this sole dish was in Ma Gastronomie (it is not). There is Sole au Gratin, but that appears to involve a whole sole and includes sliced mushrooms and breadcrumbs. Furthermore, the Sole au Gratin is indicated to be served in the baking dish, in contrast to the presentation of the sole at PB. I do not blame anybody for poor meals. It's part of the experience. One can't expect excellent meals with any frequency, even in France.

bunny -- When you have a chance, please provide some guidance of additional assistance you may require. The following is a description of a 3Q 2001 meal at Le Splendid, George Blanc's brasserie in Lyons (it is opposite one of the Bocuse bistros named after compass directions): A very reasonably priced meal (less than the equivalent of 40 euros), with a glass of house red ordered. The quenelle de brochet -- my notes indicate the following in quotes, perhaps suggesting the description is from the restaurant menu: "a tender, oversize sausage shaped dumpling of pike with a creamy shellfish sauce" (a specialty of the Lyon region; only average; La Mere Brazier, the creator of this dish, has a better version). Poulet de Bresse -- "Blanc poaches them in cream sauce", "a molded round of chicken-stock-infused rice". A fairly good dish, although its cream sauce is much simpler than the versions I have had at Blanc (e.g., G7) in Vonnas. If bunny is happy to pay more, it might be better to select a more gastronomic restaurant. A very summary description of my meal at Paul Bocuse during 2001 follows: Soupe aux truffes noires VGE (Black truffle soup VGE; a signature dish) -- Arriving in a specially inscribed bowl, the truffle soup has puff pastry on top. When a spoon was inserted, the slow give of the pastry seemed promising, but the aroma of truffles did not permeate my senses, as I would have expected, when I placed my face very close to the top of the pastry. In fact, there was no aroma from the truffles. The soup was a bit on the salty side, and the black truffle slices were soggy and disappointing. Filets de sole aux nouilles Fernand Point (Sole with noodles, Fernand Point) -- A large portion of fish, The sauce was a creamy white sauce with some elements of cheese (gratin-like effect). This was bad, because the sole did not have flavor. The sauce was overwhelming, and unappealing, and the noodles were mediocre. How could such a mediocre dish be named after F Point? Fricasee de volaille de Bresse a la creme et a l'estragon (Fricasee of Bresse chicken with cream and tarragon) -- This was very poor. The sauce brought to mind airplane food, as though it had been reheated by the grotesque little ovens on airplanes, because it carried that indescribable smell of reheating. The texture of the chicken was also poor. PB was a three-star where I had reservations for two meals, but had to cancel the second reservation due to the quality of the food. However, I am going to revisit soon to sample the fish in a pastry crust and the chicken cooked in a pig's bladder. I will try the truffle soup again to confirm the last poor version was indicative of its general quality.

mplc -- Isn't green papaya sometimes rubbed (frotte?) onto duck at PG? I believe I may have had the dish a long time ago. I can't say I remember it being delicious.

Suzanne -- I did not know those ingredients. As background, I am interested in French cuisine; other cuisines are not as subjectively engaging for me.

Suzanne -- I know you're likely joking re: JBF. Note, however, that membership at regular levels was frustrating for me. I had to join as a fellow to gain access to many of the dinners; otherwise, the best dinners get sold out. Many of the dinners are on weekdays -- this one was an exception, and they are not a substitute by any means for visits to the applicable restaurants.

A November 2002 newsletter from James Beard noted that Ludovic Lefebvre plans to open his own restaurant in Santa Monica, "where he can make a more personal statement, right down to the name -- Ludo"

Anna Sortun of Oleana is cooking at James Beard on November 21. The menu was recently released ($85 for members, $110 for guests). I am passing on this one, as I plan to eat at Oleana, Boston, in the next year or so. --Reception: Hot buttered hummus with basturma (?) Fried mussels with Turkish tarator (?) sauce and romaine Walnut kibbeh with feta and parsley Domaine St Andrew de Figuiere Cuvee Valerie 2001 -- Dinner Pumpkin Borek with apple-arugula salad and tahini, Domaine Saint Andre de Figuiere Grand Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Rose 2001 Seared scallop with Egyptian spice mix, spicy carrot puree, and spinach, with Thabani Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Fideos and chickpeas with Swiss chard and toasted-orange aioli, Domaine des Ramiere Lirac 2000 Braised Bramble Hill Farm lamb with Turkish spices and fava bean moussaka, Couly-Dutheil Clos de l'Olive Chinon 1995 Syrup-soaked palace bread pudding with rose, pistachios, and clotted cream

Andrew DiCataldo of Patria is cooking at the James Beard House on Saturday, November 9. In this Wine Lovers' Dinner, Santa Julia Vineyards of Argentina is providing the wines. I had originally not considered this dinner sufficiently attractive, but the menu was released recently and appears fairly interesting. Tickets are $95 for members, and $120 for guests. -- Reception Lobster Tostada with Sevruga Caviar Salsa Argnetine Beef Tartare with Black Truffle Mojo on Malanga Chips Tuna Con Tuna Rolls Foie Gras and Chestnut-Stuffed Mushrooms Santa Julia Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Santa Julia Bonarda Sangiovese 2000 -- Dinner A. Seviche Tasting Dayboat scallops with fresh cranberry, basil and lime Argentine Langostino with delicata squash and pipian oil Chilean merlusa with green apple, jalapeno, ginger and mint Santa Julia Torrontes 2000 B. Pirarucu (?) Red mullet with vatapa, house made farfoa de yuca, and salad of heaerts of plam and dates Santa Julia Reserva Chardonnay 2000 C. Albondigas de Conejo Rabbit meatballs with malanga bnocchi, oyster mushrooms, roasted plum tomatoes, capers and shaved Argentine Parmesan Santa Juluia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 D. Beef Churrasco with Anchovy Chimichurri, Roasted Beefs, Whipped Potatoes and Bone Marrow-Wine Sauce Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2000 E. Calabaza Flan with Pecan-Panlea Sauce Santa Julia Tardio Late-Harvest Torrontes 2001

I had an interesting (in a favorable way) meal that was good-to-very-good-minus at Blue Hill recently. I brought a sibling who was visiting from out of town and with whom I may only end up having one meal on this trip. He liked his experiences quite a bit as well. The amuses were somewhat different from normal, and did not consist of an item in a shotglass. Three delicate morcels appeared: (1) parmesan baked into a thin tartlet shape with the poignancy of a dab of goat's cheese and a bit of red pepper, (2) lightly flavored strands of crabmeat atop a small crunchy mesh of thin vermecelli-like strands (the composition of the base was somewhat unclear to me, as it could have been a vegetable base), and (3) a nice eggplant puree (containing hints of cumin) with the freshness of two peeled peashoot-colored beans, all in a small pastry-like tartlet that was a blackish color. (1) Ruby Red Shrimp in Smoked Tomato Soup I continue to like the Ruby Red shrimp at BH. They are generally cooked less than at other restaurants, just the way I prefer them. Their flesh had a texture very different (in a good way) from that of cooked-through shrimp -- more akin to that of raw amaebi at better sushi establishments. The tomato veloute was a orangish color, and its flavors were well-balanced. Mike later indicated he had utilized both stewed tomatoes and smoked tomatoes, and a dining room team member indicated that smoking was one of the ways to control the taste of late-season heirlooms that may not be as pristine as those available earlier in the season. There was a wholesomeness and creaminess to the veloute that appealed. An appealing use of thin juliennes of celeryroot, marinated and still crisp, underneath the ruby red shrimp. This was served with a fragrant Italian white that I had previously sampled at BH -- Con Class 2000. (2) Seared Toro with Green Gaspacho Literally the most delicious degustation of any grade of toro I recall having in the US (including recently, with the Concord grapes, at BH). Toro of luscious fattiness and meatiness -- literally, I would have been entirely confident it was beef (and Kobe or some other wonderful variety) of luscious fattiness. My sibling noted that, unlike the typical searing of the outside only found at many restaurants in the US, the "inside" of the toro here had some limited elements of having been cooked that sort of "melted" or rendered luscious the fat within the very noticeable marbling of the toro. I relished the four thickish slices of toro, the texture of which, again, was gloriously meaty. The saucing of the toro dish was interesting, as it was a chlorophyll-laden saucing that would normally be associated with fish, instead of the meatiness of the toro included in the dish. Underneath the toro slices were pickled sections of cucumber, and there were significant cucumber elements in the saucing. The wine, a 2001 Arneis, was nice and minerally, although it too would have normally been associated with a less meat-like fish. However, all of this worked. (3) Smoked Trout and Seared Foie Gras, with Butternut Squash Puree, Seared Chestnuts and Pomegranate Sauce This dish was a surprising combination -- surprising both in the sense of being a combination that included diverse ingredients and in the sense of being a relatively complex dish that I appreciated. Normally, I prefer a more streamlined composition style to a dish. The smoked trout was delicious -- delicate and nicely textured, and also with a nice integrating theme of smokiness from the earlier amuse of eggplant puree (which had a certain smoky taste) to the smoked tomatoes in the veloute. I liked the meat-based stock utilized in the saucing, against the smokiness of the trout. I would say that the rest of the dish was geared towards matching the foie gras, which was nicely prepared. The butternut squash puree was golden and delicious; the chestnuts good; and the individual "grain/large seeds" from the inside of pomegrantes slightly crunch (like sweet corn) and slightly sweet. A nice fruit taste to augment the foie. This was servgd with a 1970 or 1977 Madeira that was older than my sibling. (4) Four Story Hills, Milk-Fed Capon with Mushrooms, Brussel Sprouts, Turnip and Chicken Jus The first time I have tried capon in the US -- smooth, flavored. I explained the principles behind the effect intended for capons to my sibling. Not only were breast sections presented skinless, but there was some portion of the capon that had nice crispy skin attached. The small white turnip sections were beautifully crisp and had an air of impertinence (in the sense of freshness) to them. The brussel sprouts were again mini, and I liked them (despite generally not liking that vegetable). The mushrooms, chanterelles and black trumpets, were appealingly gelatinous (this is unusual for these mushrooms, but attractive). We enjoyed this dish with Zweigelt 2000 from Austria. (5) Red Wine Soup with Apple Terrine and Fromage Blanc Sorbet An attractive pre-dessert, with a nicely controlled fromage blanc taste and a moist, layered apple selection in a cube-shaped terrine. (6) Rice Pudding with Candied Almonds and *Concord Grape* Sorbet Served in a martini glass. Vanilla-flavored rice pudding with nicely candied almonds. And Concord grape sensations to evoke the history of my last two splendid meals at Blue Hill.

lizziee -- I have wanted to sample mushrooms at this restaurant for a while now. Did you get indications from the team members as to how much longer mushrooms will be in their prime as served by the restaurant?

I heard very vaguely that something might have happened to Kurova.

Chef Blumenthal -- Thanks for your efforts to date in participating in this Q&A. If you are comfortable discussing it (and I appreciate this may be a sensitive topic), could you discuss whether your dream is to ultimately obtain a third Michelin star? Is a third star, in your assessment, something that one could pin one's goals on, given the unpredictable nature of certain determinations that might be made by Michelin? Separately, do you believe the standards for achieving three-star status are different outside of France than within?

I was at Paul Bocuse recently and the food was mediocre, even signature dishes like the truffle soup VGE. So if Bocuse were bunny's choice, it would have to be predicated on historical significance of the chef to French cuisine, rather than deliciousness or inventiveness of the cuisine.

Cabrales, This is what makes horse races. You found Astrance wonderful; I found it the worst possible example of invention and innovation at the expense of taste. You don't like Gagnaire's food where I will return willingly, even though as I have said, it wasn't the best meal we had over the course of our month in France. But given 2 dinners in the space of a month, there was more right than wrong. lizziee -- I'd like to clarify that my statement regarding not valuing invention at the expense of taste was intended to refer to taste in the sense of flavor of a dish, and not taste with respect to judgment with respect to cuisine. I have the utmost respect for different, subjective tastes in the latter sense, and for your viewpoints.

Steve P -- The rose was paired with the halibut dish by the restaurant.

lizziee -- Gagnaire has destroyed a dish using argan oil before, on a prior visit I made to the restaurant. To my recollection, the argon oil was already on the plate when the guinea hen reappeared at our table. I doubt it was a dining room team member who callibrated the amount of argan oil, and, if it were, that would have been the chef's mistake to allow such person to do so. With all respect, I'd have to say that the entire Gagnaire meal was not particularly appealing, although I very much enjoyed lizziee's company. For me, it was not just the truffle dish and the guinea hen that were "off". For me, Gagnaire is a must in the same way that any three-star is a must at some point or other. I don't value "invention" at the expense of taste; I have always disilked Gagnaire's food, but I always approach it with an open mind. And, Bux, believe me when I say that my expectations with respect to Gagnaire were far from a level of perfection.

Robert R -- I'm revisiting Blue Hill tonight. A sibling (who also places emphasis on food) is in town, and I may have the opportunity to have only one meal with him, based on his schedule. I'll try to provide an update late tonight, but it may have to be later tomorrow.

Below is a chicken in half-mouring recipe attributed to La Mere Brazier, when she was at Col de La Luere. The recipe is from 1972/73, and included in Louisette Bertholle's "Secrets of the Great French Restaurants" (featuring certain Michelin starred restaurants). Note that the significant use of butter in the saucing and the use of a smaller amount of the vegetable cooking sauce cause the resulting chicken to differ from the version I sampled. 2 chickens, each weighing 1 kg, seasoned inside with salt and freshly milled pepper and trussed 4 medium-sized truffles, scrubbed, peeled and finely sliced Court-bouillon made from: 6 leeks, white parts only 8 small carrots 4 turnips 2 sticks celery 1 sprig thyme and 1 bay leaf 200 g smoked belly of pork, soaked in cold water, diced, blanched for 5 minutes and run under cold water 2.5 l water 100 g unsalted butter Slit the skin of the chickens and insert a generous number of slivers of truffles between the flesh and the skin. Push them well in so that their flavour willl permeate the inside of the birds. Prepare a very well flavored court-bouillon with the ingredients listed and cook for 1 hour over moderate heat. Leave to cool. Poach the chickens in the court-bouillon for 15 minutes from the moment when the liquid starts to boil. Leave the chicken in the pan on the edge of the stove to keep warm without cooking. Remove the vegetables from the court-bouillon, stew them genetly in a little butter and arrange them in a round serving dish. Keep the dish warm. Strain the court-bouillon and reduce it to 3 or 4 tablespoons. Beat in the rest of the b utter with a wire whisk away from the heat, a little at a time, letting each piece become thoroughly incorporated before adding another. Spoon the sauce over the vegetables. Carve each chicken into 4 and serve with the vegetables garnish and a Bernaise sauce, with horseradish.

I'd appreciate members' input on Laperouse in the 6th, including decor aspects as well as current cuisine..