cabrales

The NYT reported yesterday, in a small section, that Dan is going to participate in a lecture hosted by the Earth Pledge Foundation on Grass Fed Meats. The event is in conjunction with Skate Creek Farm of NY, and is to be held 6:30-9:00 pm, Monday, November 18, 2002. Tickets are $30-35 (?), est. 725-6611 Ext. 225.

The other Gagnaire dish I have sampled that included green papaya was: Dorade royale au Sel de Maldon; figue seche; noissette; citron confit et papaye rapee (Sea bream with Maldon salt, dried figs, hazelnut, confit lemons and grated papaya). This dish was complex in appearance, with a dried leng th of leek extending past the boundaries of the plate. Why was it there? For no reason other than visual effect, which, in my mind, is a misguided reason for including an item in a dish. The sea bream filet was rectangular, with the figs layered in like a cake. On top was a single green bean -- again, why? For no reason except to include the bean. Further on top were shreds of green papaya that tasted very much like green apple. An average dish that was made sillier by the last touch being the addition of salt from a geren salt squeezer utilized by a dining room team member at the table.

Wilfrid, Beloved, Nina and her beau and I had dinner at Casa Adela tonight (66 Avenue C, 212-473-1882). We had the following, family style: -- Sancocho, "hefty stew that includes just about everything: oxtail, root plants plantains and other vegetables" ($3.25) -- Ensalada de Pulpo Con Arroz y Habichuelas, Octupus salad with rice and beans (9.50) -- Ensalada de Aguacate, Avocado Salad (3.00) -- Bacalao a la Vizeaina, Codifsh in a tmoato sauce with onions, potatoes, olives, raisons and garlic (8.00) -- arguably the best dish of the meal -- Pernil Asado, Roast pork (6.50) -- Steak with Chimichurri Sauce (price uncertain; off-menu item) -- cooked essentially medium well despite the request (perhaps misguided under the circumstances for a rare preparation) -- Chicharrones de Pollo, Chicken cracklings (5.00 or more) -- Habichuelas (Beans -- Red kidney, black or pink; 1.50-2.50) -- Rice varieties (separately charged) -- Dessert flan Both the Rotisserie Chicken and the Pollo Guisado (Chicken Stew) dishes were unfortunately sold out. The restaurant permitted BYO without corkage. We finished almost three bottles of wine, including a Pouilly Fume, Cuvee Pur Sang, D Dageneau 2000. The bill was $14/person, tip included.

lizziee -- I consider it appropriate to count places that one dined at while it was a less-than-three star, if it later became a three-star. That way, one is rewarded for having the foresight to have dined at such facility. porkpa -- There are so many reasons I might revisit a place I had limited expectations of, including places I might affirmatively dislike. They include: (1) Travelling with friends -- This has happened to me on more than one occasion, particularly in Burgundy where the Lyons to Paris drive is so replete with restaurants. If a friend who has never visited Restaurant B wanted to go, I would not be one to deprive him of that experience, particularly if Restaurant B were relatively well-known. (2) Failure to have previously sampled signature dishes -- This applies to me in many scenarios. For example, I think Paul Bocuse's cuisine at present is not particularly good. However, I would like to sample his fish in a pastry crust and his Bresse chicken in a pig's bladder. Similarly, I did not particularly like George Blanc's cuisine. Sooner or later, I will return to sample his Bresse chicken in gros sel preparation, about which I have had discussions wtih lizziee. (3) Geographic Vicinity -- Although cuisine generally governs my travel destinations, if I were to find myself in a given geographic area, I would of course go to sample applicable restaurants even if I had not been particularly impressed with them previously. For example, while I was not stunned by the cuisine at Morimoto's in Philly, if I were in town for more than a meal and I had already eaten at Le Bec Fin, I might well choose Morimoto's place again. When I am in the US, I do not have access to restaurants in France and I have to choose from the available facilities. (4) Holidays/Closing Periods/Weekends -- I dislike Gagnaire's cuisine. Yet his restaurant is open on Sunday evenings, which is unusual in general for Paris restaurants. While L'Astrance is also open on Sunday evenings and therefore I have a restaurant I really like to eaet at, if L'Astrance were not so open, I might go to Gagnaire more. The same applies for certain French holidays and the August closing period for many Parisian restaurants. (5) Monitoring of Restaurant Over Time -- Even if one thought the cuisine at a restaurant were not particularly good, one might be curious about whether it might have changed a bit (whether for better or worse). That might lead to a resampling of the cuisine over time. (6) Possibility that Initial Poor Meal Was Glitch -- One meal is not a good basis on which to judge a restaurant. Therefore, even at restaurants that initially disappoint, I might return to get more data points so as to meaningfully assess the restaurant. (7) Interest in Restaurant for History -- Some restaurants carry a great deal of history (e.g., Maxim's, Laperouse, Oustau de Baumaniere). I like to scrutinize restaurant architecture, read about French culinary history, and generally understand about various aspects of restaurants. Thus, I might return to Bocuse soon in part for the history. I am also visiting Lucas-Carton with increased frequency because I worry about Senderens' retirement, although I have not heard word of such a development. I have thought about taking in lunch at places like Fermette de Marboeuf (spelling), which has beautiful stained glass decorations. Similarly, I have a number of books on French restaurant decor. Tour d'Argent would also fall in this category. (8) Very Good Deals -- Not that I necessarily dislike Grand Vefour's food (I'm still observing it), but who could resist a lunch at under 80 euros prix fixe? Similarly, a lunch at Lucas-Carton for under 80 euros prix fixe? Sometimes, price would sway me to revisit. Note I generally like Lucas-Carton, although its cuisine is not always compelling. (9) Diet/Appetite Considerations -- I know that I might have to "pig out" at certain restaurants. Thus, when I am on a diet or in a food fatigue phase, I might deliberate choose a restaurant with less impressive cuisine or non-French cuisine.

Non-beverage-wise, helena has kindly agreed to assist me with the macaron sampling.

This place is in Rheims aka Reims. It's called Boyer "Les Crayeres", and the name chef is Guerard Boyer. To access the facility, one can take a (non-TGV) train (less than 2 hours, very generally) from Paris directly to Rheims, which is in the Champagne region.

Wilfrid -- Yes, my intended reference was to a green sauce, in flavor as well as visual effects. There are some green sauces at BH, but not an undue amount, in my view. For example, I believe that green sauces or sauces involving green sauces tend to be utilized more at Bouley (where Dan admittedly used to work).

Kikujiro -- I would consider Capital, Putney Bridge and Lindsay House (in that order) as the better possibilities. I think Putney Bridge is a promising restaurant with good cuisine, although I have not visited within the past year now. I like Lindsay House (not as much as PB), although Corrigan can be somewhat inconsistent. By the way, Lindsay House could be less expensive than Capital or Putney Bridge if you were willing to have a pre-theater dinner (choices are limited, but can be pretty good sometimes) -- not that that is the message you want to convey for a family celebration. For dinner, Putney Bridge is not necessarily that much less expensive than Capital, in my assessment. It's not that I dislike Pied a Terre, but I wouldn't consider it to be as good as Capital or PB. Note I have not visited since the PaT renovation. River Cafe, I have only visited during lunch. Less technical cuisine, and probably less expensive than the others.

lizziee -- I appreciate Guerard's place might also be close by, but I was targetting Biarritz because it's closer to San Sebastian. Have you stayed at Huchet (I have not), and do you know if rooms there are somehow bundled with those at other Guerard facilities? I have put in an inquiry to Pres to ask about Huchet, including its location. I am going to have to learn to drive manual cars ASAP. Some smaller French towns don't have automatic models available for rental.

I forgot to mention that, after I described why capons are subjected to what they are, my sibling noted that there is a parallel of induced effects with respect to castrato of yesteryear and their singing voices. http://www.usrf.org/news/010308-jenkins_lancet.html Back to capons, Kerry Heffernan at Eleven Madison Park may be offering them from time to time as well (members should verify prior to reliance).

lizziee -- I have, sadly, never sampled chicken drumettes.

lizziee -- While my assessment of Buerehiesel (based on only one visit to date) was more favorable than yours, I agree the frogs' legs dish is very good. What did you think of the textural effecst of the accumulation of the flesh of the frogs near the thigh, through scraping of the areas closer to the "feet"?

I expect to make the event. I'll adhere to my original proposal of a sampling of macarons. I plan to buy some from each vendor of a commonly available flavor (e.g., chocolate), and then some of the unusual flavors of each vendor (e.g., blueberry available at Payard a while ago). Are members aware of other interesting vendors of macarons that are not too far away?

Chef Blumenthal -- Hi; it's me again. I have not eaten at The Fat Duck during the period when white and black truffles (at least the conventional ones) have been in season. Do you use such truffles to a significant extent in dishes? If so, please provide some examples and discuss how you chose the ingredients that accompanied the truffles. Separately (and apologies for my lack of understanding of molecular gastronomy), when an ingredient is largely defined by its aromas, have there been MG analyses on (1) how aromas interact with one another and with tastes sampled not as aromas (e.g., in the mouth), (2) how airborne materials dissipate more or less quickly than items that are in solid, liquid or other forms, and (3) how strong smell can be relative to "mouth" taste. Finally (and apologies if I am misstating another memer's circumstances), there is a member, apart from Matthew Grant, who has previously articulated an interest in observing/working in UK kitchens. If, say, "blind lemon higgins" and/or I also had some free time and also wanted to spend time in your kitchens, could you accommodate him and/or me?

Patrice -- How could a diner get to Urt without driving, if that's possible?

When jordyn and I visited CT late last month, Lady T advised us that Chicago newspapers had reported on various aspects of the divorce. Perhaps Lady T could provide details.

Patrice -- Did you have time to visit Bayonne or Urt on the same trip?

A Man for all Seasonings -- If you are comfortable discussing i t, would it be safe to assume that your username is a play on the name of one of Ramsay's books, and that you like his cuisine?

I'd appreciate members' input on whether Palais or Les Plantanes would be preferable for dinner in Biarritz.

bunny -- Not being informed about Henckels' characteristics, I do not know. If you are looking for cuisine quality and not focusing on history, I would not recommend PB. La Mere Brazier is quite traditional -- it has the pike quenelle and you can also sample Bresse chicken. The prices are relatively low as well, and the restaurant has history. You might want to check whether the restaurant is open for the day of the lunch in question.

I'd be interested in learning what the best way to go to Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria may be, if one does not plan to rent a car. How far is this restaurant from San Sebastian? What are the hotels closest to Berasategui? Also, would it be safe to assume that a train from Biarritz/Bayonne is an efficient way to cross th border into Spain for San Sebastian? What are the hotels closest to Arzak, and have members eaten at Arzak's kitchen table?

mlpc -- I took it the duck rubbed with green papaya some time ago. However, here is a description of a similar dish: http://worldserver2.oleane.com/fatrazie/me...et_cuisine_.htm ("Coffre de canard Pékin macéré 'cumin-cannelle' marmelade de papaye et mangue verte, crumble d'amande" -- it is unclear from this description whether it is the mango only that is green, or whether green papaya was also utilized) I vaguely recall having had another Gagnaire dish with green papaya recently. I will investigate with respect to my notes.

Adam -- I was trying to not sound like I was linking to things that many London-based members would have already seen.

bunny -- Troisgros has some Heinkel (spelling) kitchen knives that have beautifully curved handles and the "Troisgros" name engraved on the handle. They come in several sizes, are are under $100 each for most. You might want to get one or two. I plan to buy one or two myself, or the Alessi spice rack I saw there last. You can also buy some flavored oils with the Troisgros label. The last time I went to Roanne, I was lugging back decanters and plates (I collect plates from three star restaurants) as well.

I wonder if Granville Island has any decent cheese vendors.