cabrales

Malawry -- Many thanks for your response :) The self-discipline to adhere to your self-imposed meat/fowl/fish restrictions at the same time as the gluten/dairy/egg ban is not easy to muster. If you are comfortable, I would appreciate just a bit more description on why you would turn to brocoli and other things you had not liked before, instead of relaxing your restrictions on meat/fowl/fish. It would probably come as no surprise that I am not at all disciplined in all things food-related, although I am usually aware of what the situation surrounding me might be in that regard. On judging simple foods, I am not particularly interested in eating bread (unless it's as a base for cheese, but there are alternative accompaniments for that). However, I have found myself tasting a lot of butter in France. Levels of saltiness, creaminess, connotations of cream, complementarity (or lack thereof) with different breads offered at the applicable restaurant, and other attributes can vary quite a bit. In addition, some restaurants have the practice of offering both salted and unsalted butter. I find myself sometimes tasting more of each, if they are decent. Another apparently simple item I have been tasting at different places is verbena infusion. I am a "die-hard" coffee person (not due to addiction to caffeine effects, more due to my liking the bitterness in a double espresso). However, I have been ordering verbena infusion from time to time because its (mild) taste has noticeable variation too.

Brija -- Sorry if my post was unclear; less complexity in posting is something I'm working on. You responded to what I was trying to say, though. Let me frame things from the flip side. Instead of asking whether having a given food more frequently might, in some situations, lead you to enjoy each additional amount of it less (which is not the case, as you note, given the endless opportunities remaining even without meat), were there particular dishes or particular types of meat or cuts that you yearned for during the no-meat period? Perhaps a grain of memory about the luscious fattiness or other aspects of a given meat that, even if you would not ordinarily like it, your not having sampled it in a long time would make the first "re-taste" of it (e.g., in the small bites a few times a year you describe) delicious? It sounds like the answer to these questions is "no" :)

Malawry & Brija -- When you switched to not eating meat and fowl, I wonder if a principle similar to the "law of diminishing marginal returns" in economics had a (small) adverse effect on the fulfillment you derived from the remaining food categories. (That "law" posits that a person's "utility" or fulfillment from taking in an extra unit of a given good decreases the more the person already has of the good.) Did you enjoy non-meat products at least as much after your switch in dietary regime, even though you were taking in more of it during any given week or month? Perhaps a category like fish is diverse enough, and individual types of fish differentiated enough, that any effects of similarity and the law of diminishing marginal returns were dissipated? Or perhaps similarity in dishes can, for certain diners under some circumstances, even become helpful? For me, diminishing marginal returns have not applied to date. In a limited time period, I often take in (1) more of a given food product (e.g., turbot, Jerusalem artichokes, eggs, blood oranges, seasonal items), food category or drink, and/or (2) several meals at a single restaurant (even where the menu has not changed and I am ordering from it). For me, this may be fulfilling because it permits comparison of subtleties (not that that is my primary goal in dining). Perhaps comparison furnishes another cerebral aspect to dining. Recently, I have at times ordered the same type of dish at different restaurants. For example, I ordered dishes containing oysters set in a gelee (similar to jelly) of the water/juices trapped in their shells (at times described on menus by reference to sea water) at Meneau's L'Esperance (Vezelay-St. Pere), Dutournier's Carre des Feuillants (Paris) and Lorain's Cote Saint-Jacques (Joigny). I liked each version of the dish quite a bit. Not only were the oysters differentiated (with Lorain's being less "flat", although the other two chefs were not using belons by any means), but the utilization of the oyster jus and the nature of the gelee were distinct. In Meneau and Dutournier's versions, each oyster was presented in its own shell. In his signature dish, Meneau set the gelee somewhat more firmly and had a vegetable leaf suspended in the gelee above the portion containing the oyster. The gelee was even, smooth and "clear"-tasting. It had been imbued with a bit of the brininess, saltiness and other scents of the sea. Dutournier placed each oyster above a paste containing, I believe, horseradish and a light cream (not helpful to the dish). When only the oyster and the much more "wobbly" and smaller pieces of "crushed" clear gelee were eaten together, however, the dish was appealing. Also, the dish offered two little pieces of coarse toast-like crackers with a smearing of foie gras. Finally, Lorain's signature terrine of oyster, included in the "Les Musts" parts of his menu, was a wedge from a larger preparation. The oysters were no longer served in their own shell and were no longer whole. Intriguingly, as many as ten plump ones had been laid in the larger terrine in the direction counter to that in which the terrine had been sliced. This revealed cross-sections of oyster that, in some cases, had a discernible greenish interior. Also, paper-thin slices of seaweed and of softened endive and shallots (I believe) were utilized in the terrine. The oyster jus was in a brownish terrine gelee with a reddish tint, mixed in with tastes of an ingredient bringing to mind light soya sauce (although that was likely not utilized). The Lorain oyster terrine was the last in this series I took in, and the differences were a welcome surprise. Members' thoughts would be appreciated on the benefits and detriments of sampling very similar dishes, food products or food categories with greater frequency, particularly in the context of switches to or away from meat consumption. Members' descriptions of foods they would want more of in the "If I were rich . . ." thread under "General" could be seen as somewhat related to this question too. (Edited by cabrales at 7:01 am on Feb. 7, 2002)

Clerkenwell Dining Room is as Simon reported, except that there is an inexpensive prix fixe menu ( "menu du jour" ) for lunchtime and for early-bird dinners (6-7 pm). For 11.50 pounds, a diner can choose two dishes, with three being available for 3 pounds more. Here were the menu du jour selections today: 1. Wild mushroom soup, creme fraiche, or Warm salad of sauteed sweetbreads, or --> Oyster beignet, slow roasted onions: This dish was quite good, with deep-fried plump oysters sitting atop a comforting nest of onions in balsamic vinegar. Good utilization of parsley, both in a sprig and in small pieces woven into the onion. 2. Seared bavette (a type of steak), spinach and fondant potatoes, or Sundried pepper and potato galette, confit tomatoes, or --> Smoked haddock, poached egg and horseradish. This was not bad, with spinach and mashed potatoes couching a fillet of smoked haddock (perhaps a bit overdone, but it is hard to say with smoked fish) and an appropriately executed egg. 3. Choice among three desserts. The lemon sorbet I selected was a bit heavier than most, but had an attempted artistic aspect of gnarled twists of thin sugared lemon peel. Overall, a good price-to-quality relationship if the menu du jour is adhered to. Also, based on the selections I saw, the inclusion of dishes a diner might actually want on the menu du jour. House champagne is Perrier Jouet (6.50 pounds per glass), with a special section of the wine list for "bin end" bottles. On this occasion, such bottles included Puligny-Montrachet, Leflaive 1996 at 70 pounds, and Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Chateau de Beaucastel 1994 at 55 pounds. On other aspects: Service was mixed, but personnel was making efforts. The food arrived relatively quickly, despite there being quite a few tables being seated simultaneously. Decor is intended to be modern, with an emphasis on blues, greys, whites and a bit of orange. A bit stark for my tastes. There is an upper level that did not appear to be used during lunchtime. Less helpful aspects included fairly noticeable background music (a pet peeve).

Jinmyo -- Thanks for the discussion on mock meats. See also "The long road to eGullet" in "Member Bios". (Yes, Steve P's bio). indiagirl -- I'm looking forward to your updates. While I am not positioned to furnish advice on your choice in your circumstances, below are some thoughts on meat (with seafood not yet being covered): 1. Baby Steps? If you choose to pursue meat, consider as another possibility using your sense of smell on meat first -- a piping hot, thick, aromatic and long-cooked chicken soup with noodles and vegetables (for familiarity as well as taste!). Meat is not like truffles, where the smell of the item is essential to its overall appreciation. However, this may be a way of easing yourself into the meat consumption process. After sniffing the soup, you could decide whether or not to draw a little bit of the precious liquid, without the chicken, into your mouth. 2. All Sorts of Possibilities. Soup leads me to mention that, by not consuming meat or seafood, a person is also not benefitting from the varied stocks and other sauces or bases that could emerge from this raw material. Shying away from meat and seafood would also preclude the sampling of those flavors when they are paired with wine. In other words, the effects of meat could be in combination, and may not be "linear" due to "mixing" effects with wine and other food items (including vegetables and fruit -- like the effect of pork on the onions in the pork vinadloo you mentioned). Of course, dishes with meat or seafood become parts of meals that have their own pace, progression and idiosyncratic gloriousness. A progression of dishes containing meats can be more fulfilling, under certain conditions, than a single meat dish. For example, a dinner (not, obviously, suggested at this point) beginning with game bouillon, followed by other dishes, and progressing to the intensity of woodcock nursed by plump, peeled, confit green grapes and a truffle jus. 3. On Specifics. For me, the appeal of meat includes: the juices ebbing from flesh not cooked beyond medium rare (except for pork or chicken); the tenderness, density and/or elastic "give" in certain meats; the sensation of something "substantial" when bitten into and taken into one's mouth; the diverse effects of fat, whether bulging along the rim of the cut, coarsing through it in tree-root-like veins or enmeshed into its body; the seductive "raw" visual appeal of less-cooked flesh, flushed with shades ranging from burgundy to a blush pink. In very small birds, I like the fragility of their bones when cracked in my mouth. (That sounds a lot more gross than it is.) For certain other birds -- their inside cavities when somewhat bloody; the intensity of their liver and other inner parts; the feel of the meat adjacent to their thigh or wing bones. In chicken, I appreciate the gradations in flavor when both white (e.g., breast) and dark (e.g., thigh) meat are sampled in a single dish. When there is a layer of fat between the skin and the flesh of the chicken and the dish is hot, I like the contrast between that fat and the suppleness of the flesh. I like the subtlety of the taste of Bresse chicken, when compared with, say, most beef items, and, depending on the method of preparation, I like to pair it with old, old champagnes (notwithstanding conventional wisdom). For current meat eaters: Bresse chicken cooked in a champagne sauce at Jean-Michel Lorain, of La Cote Saint-Jacques in Joigny, France, was yummy. I took it in with Bollinger R.D. 1981. The dish is mentioned in an article by Steven Shaw on the restaurant. I enjoy beef, particularly unusual breeds. I like the uneven browned portions on the edges of an appropriately prepared steak -- their little fragrant bits and the slight bitterness from the charring. Hot portions of fat can kind of "burst" when bitten into. I like the "blood" connotations in the juices inside the beef; a little dollop of marrow next to it, perhaps. I like beef presented simply, or with a more aggressive peppercorn sauce, or in various French methods. Sauteed onions or mushrooms (esp. small, small chanterelles) can be elevated when sitting in a pool of beef jus. Similarly, for some of my dining companions (if not me), potatoes take on greater possibilities when accompanied by beef. For current meat eaters: I have sampled more beef since my post under "Kobe Beef" in "Cooking", including(1) Charolaise at Ambassadeurs (Crillon, Paris) -- with foie gras on top; (2) Charolaise at Chez Denise (Paris) -- simply sliced thickly and "au jus" and reasonably priced; and (3) Aubrac at Maison d'Aubrac (Paris) -- tartare, and separate entrecote. Finally, I'd like to note the possibilities inhering in game, especially such stronger tasting game as woodcock and grouse. Certain game have an intensity and distinctiveness (difficult to describe) that appeal.

Sandra -- Are you as interested in how an ethnic cuisine, modes of food preparation and storage, seasoning methods, or a particular dish have evolved over time? Just as in architecture, there are temporal linkages that could be evaluated. Also, could any interest you may have in common themes among different "authentic" ethnic cuisines (e.g., Malaysian and Singaporean; French and Russian as mentioned in another thread -- if French can be viewed as an ethnic cuisine) be compared to common threads linking certain distinct architectural styles?

Without suggesting that the below rationales are the primary explanatory factors for a heavy weighing (if any) of lawyers as foodies, I list some factors that might contribute to such an effect (in no particular oder): 1. Sense of personal deprivation. To the extent that lawyers work long hours (or worked long hours when the economy was busier) and are under time and other pressures, they may feel they deserve to "treat" themselves to good meals. The need to reward themselves might have some inchoate connection to a sense of deprivation (particularly with respect to personal time) that some lawyers may perceive. 2. Subsidization effects. In general, meals undertaken to develop client relationships, summer associate lunches and other recruiting-based meals, and meals taken during weekends or late in the evening can become the subject of reimbursement. In addition, the cost of meals taken while traveling for work purposes is reimbursed at reasonable rates. (Some areas of legal practice require more travel than others. Also, other professions, such as management consultants or accountants, appear to travel at least as extensively.) The benefit of having meals reimbursed is not as great as it might appear. Only meal costs at "normal", generally understood levels are reimbursed, and the contexts in which reimbursement is available tend not to facilitate enjoyment of the dining experience. 3. Waiting Effects. Steven Shaw mentioned that lawyers often have to wait for input from their colleagues, from the lawyers representing the other parties in a deal or lawsuit, from governmental authorities or other parties. Senior lawyers have to await the turning of documents by more junior lawyers. Junior lawyers have to await the review of documents by their supervisors, by clients and by other parties. Researching and reading about restaurants may be one way that lawyers choose to utilize this "waiting" time. If a lawyer has to be available during a weekend or late at night, but is not needed at all times during a given period, restaurant-going would appear to be a good way to fill waiting time. 4. Flexibility/"Last Minute" Deployment. Leaving aside the question of securing reservations and the quality of the restaurants available for booking, a lawyer who learns of his availability or non-availability for a meal late in the day still has some hope of being able to plan for a decent restaurant experience. For the theater or other arts events, advance purchase of tickets is required and this could lead to resources being "wasted" on events not ultimately attended. Many sports cannot be readily undertaken in the evening or at the last minute. Since lawyers might have a greater portion of their friends working in the law who also have unpredictable schedules (colleagues, former classmates, professional contacts), lawyers may have added problems in planning leisure activities requiring the participation of a large group of people. Restaurant-going is flexible enough to accommodate the above constraints.

Bux -- Are you a lawyer? (Apologies if this has been addressed elsewhere or if your post was based on other considerations.)

Steve -- The bottle I most covet in Paris is an 1897 Lafite Rothschild at around 13,500 FF. With a wine like that, one does not even know what to expect. The cuisine at the relevant restaurant is fairly good (not top-notch, but adequate for a good meal around the wine). I consider the bottle a bit expensive (in an absolute sense), and have not made a decision about it. If we are in Paris at the same time, we can consider drinking both bottles :) The same restaurant has a 1945 Pavie for 16,000 FF and a 1982 Salon (my favorite champagne) for 3000 FF. (Edited by cabrales at 7:01 am on Jan. 7, 2002)

I have eaten at Helen Darroze again since my last post. The service was uneven, with the sommelier assisting us this time being less knowledgeable. The place was far from full Saturday lunch, such that a last minute decision could likely be made on it as a back-up. Onto the dishes ordered. There was offered a lengthy menu degustation, as well as a more simplified one. We chose a la carte, with some ordering the foie gras comparison (a dish with goose and duck foie gras presented side by side, served cold) and others the hot foie gras dish. I ordered the sea urchin soup, which was poorly composed and executed. The soup was a bit too creamy for my taste, and was short on the intrinsic taste of urchin. Worse, included was a scoop of foie gras mousse (heavier than mousse connotes) which was at a very low temperature (this had also been used in the rabbit soup I had had at the restaurant previously). The foie gras detracted from what should have been the "marine" aspects of the urchins and overwhelmed their role in the dish. However, my choice of chapon with a natural jus (with appropriately limited truffles) was rewarded. I had always been on the lookout for chapon (a castrated chicken that has to meet certain requirements, including age, and that is ordinarily available for a very limited period around Christmas; not yet explored in the A Balic thread). I had chapon for the first time, although it was not chapon from Bresse, but from the South. The chapon was flavorful and appropriately cooked. Its meat had a refined smoothness that was appealing. I skipped dessert, opting instead for madelaines from a little cart with it and other goodies that came by. Jam selections for the madelaines included orange/vanilla (my selection) and strawberry/rhubarb. The wine list is overpriced for some bottles. For example, a Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 1990 that I had purchased at Fauchon for 700 FF was over 2000 FF at Darroze. I opted for a 1989 Louise from Pommery, and a decent Volnay that accommodated my dining companions' dishes. My assessment of the meal is uneven food, with some dishes being well executed and others lacking in subtlety.

Jon -- Thierry was there about 1 1/2 months ago and I have not seen him at Claridge's (even on weekends). He likely functions as the lead sommelier of all Ramsay affiliated restaurants. For example, he put together the collection of Petrus vintages for Wareing's restaurant (maybe even some of the ones that contributed to the most expensive restaurant tab incurred by some Barclay's bankers a while ago -- funny how Ramsay received much more attention for that than did Wareing). Anyhow, the other man you describe is also at Royal Hospital Road. By the way, the bar area at Claridge's seems nice (not the lounge area to which people are moved post-dinner to accommodate the turning of the tables). I am thinking of asking for seating at the bar instead of in the little lounge next time. Claridge's has a better offering of champagne by the glass than RHR, perhaps due to Claridge's size. I had a Dom Perignon of a decent year in the 1990s there last time by the glass.

Steve -- I AM curious about the '85 magnum in Paris. Were you under the impression the restaurant had more than one bottle, in which case you can message the location to me? Speaking of magnums, I recently saw at Nicolas (or whatever the name of the wine store next to Heidard's, sic, at Place de la Madelaine is) a magnum of Ruinart Millenium Brut Champagne, in a Lalique-decorated container with a silver-colored metallic "cage" around it. I am very interested in Ruinarts -- even though this was not a Blanc de Blancs; see "Wine and Beer") . The price was over 6000 FF, and I had to let it go. I had seen the same bottle displayed from time to time at Waterside Inn. I continued champagne-hunting at Fauchon, where they had Pommery's Louise line in magnum. Back to Troisgros. The kitchen can be viewed through the windows at the back of the main house. We stood outside for perhaps 10-15 minutes just observing. Later, we were offered the actual tour of the inside of the kitchen, and discovered a round table where the chef might eat or entertain his own friends. It is in a little nook, with informal art relating to the restaurant featured on the walls. This table is right behind the "wall" with rows of hooks where orders are displayed for the kitchen team. I wonder what it takes to eat at that table?

As mentioned in another post, Jonathan Meades is no longer going to write on food. In his second-to-last food column, he summarized his assessments of various restaurants he had visited over the course of the year. He accorded Nahm a "1" (out of 10). That would also be my assessment of the restaurant. With all respect, I would say that a diner would either like Nahm quite a bit or not like it at all :) Matthew -- I would agree that the Nahm flavors were distinct (and also distinctive relative to one another). However, were the flavors not too powerful for you, in view of the other ingredients in the dishes?

With all respect, regardless of why Ramsay is the way he is -- I'll continue to dine at both Royal Hospital Road and Claridge's. The food at RHR is very good relative to other London establishments, with Koffman at La Tante Claire and Demeter (sic) at Putney Bridge being the only other restaurants in London operating at a comparable level in my mind. Demeter is not less expensive, however, than the two more established chefs when a la carte is ordered. Despite Ramsay's being among the best restaurants in the UK, employees who cannot tolerate his ways should pursue their careers elsewhere. To the extent the benefits of continued association with Ramsay outweigh any abuse and other negative aspects, one should "take the bad with the good". This brings to mind an unrelated anecdote relating to the snide comments Jean Troisgros had for Loiseau, who was working as a commis when the Troisgros brothers earned their third star. The witnessing of this event was to have a profound motivating effect on Loiseau's own fixations on achieving a similar level. (See "Burgundy Stars" book, which, interestingly, contains a chapter on the search for epoisse and other cheeses by the personnel at La Cote d'Or.) J. Troisgros is alleged to have said that, if Loiseau can become a cook, then Troisgros himself would be an archbishop (or other important clergyman)! Finally, on the sommeliers at Claridge's and Macrosan's post, the very young-looking sommelier at RHR (Thierry Berson, sic) has remained at RHR. He is wonderfully knowledgeable and professional. It took me a few visits to figure out that Thierry, the younger looking of the RHR sommeliers, is actually the lead sommelier. He also moved with Ramsay from Aubergine.

On Darroze, Steve P includes the restaurant in his "My Year in Food" report under "New York". He appeared to like it too. Uneven service extended only to the food service staff; I found the sommelier to be helpful (I think I had a Volnay with the palombe), although the wine list left much to be desired with respect to depth. Pricing depends on whether one adheres to the prix fixe menus, the more expensive of which at Darroze would approximate the (large) "surprise" menu at L'Astrance (last time I visited, around 500-600 FF with vins du pays). On L'Astrance, on some lunch visits, I have noticed that the restaurant does not open up the upper floor area, which for me has the most comfortable table in the restaurant (with semi-circular seating). I doubt that a last-minute decision would be made to open the upper floor area, though. (Edited by cabrales at 4:23 am on Jan. 13, 2002)

Steve -- Thanks for the great post. I agree with you on Troisgros, among many other restaurants you described, and actually had the 1990 Echezeaux, H. Jayer there during the Christmas period. :) See postings under "Cooking" -- "Kobe Beef" and "Frozen Truffles". (Yes, I am working on posting under more obvious thread names instead of posting based on logical relevance to prior posts in any given thread). The Troisgros sommeliers were knowledgeable, and furnished a tour of the cellar (I was personally more interested in the kitchen tour). There was an extensive selection of Montrachets, among other items to covet. The half bottle Petrus selection is among the best in France, based on my experience to date. However, we did not try any Petrus at Troisgros. The half-bottle of Haut-Brion we picked was excellent, and not expensive for what it offered.

<p>Robert -- My efforts to have two three-star meals a day when I am in France continue. If I am not in Paris, I try to have them at the same restaurant. There are so many dishes I would like to order from initially reviewing the menu, and, further there are other dishes that appear interesting when served to neighboring diners. I try to avoid cheese and digestifs during both meals (as much as I like cheese), and schedule a later dinner (9:30 or 10:00). I also try to pace myself on wine during lunch.

Robert -- Agreed, the service is uneven. The food is wonderful and quite reasonably priced. I was there about 2 months ago, and may go this weekend (in which case I'll report). There were some decent game dishes the last (and only) time I was there, including palombe (a bird that can be caught in Southern France, from which Darroze hails). The dessert was chestnut "sphaghetti" on a tart, with an ice cream the flavor of which eludes me. SamanthaF -- Are the dates you specified the only dates you will be in Paris? (Edited by cabrales at 4:27 am on Jan. 13, 2002)

I wonder whether Mad Cow Disease in France has affected the availability in restaurants of parts of the cow that are deemed most likely to cause problems (e.g., brain material; spinal cord area -- although I query how the latter would be served). Also, while I have not ordered beef in Europe (except for Charolaise and on two or three other occasions), beef products are used sufficiently in stock for there potentially to be some amount of risk (albeit an extremely limited amount of risk that does not bother me) for all diners eating at restaurants. On risk, I have on occasion thought fleetingly about: (1) the risk of severe illness from eating oysters, which I relish, and (2) the risks some Japanese take in eating the fish that, if prepared inappropriately, can offer potent poisons.

I read Jonathan Meade's final column as food commentator. He named his favorite restaurant -- La Tupina. While I have never been to the restaurant, I find Meade's views on restaurants useful at times and am now slightly more inclined to try La Tupina.

I secured reservations there for lunch mid January. Contrary to the usual 1 month policy, for reservations in early January -- today was the first possible day to book. The restaurant had been closed for a period previously. It might be worth another call to plead :) Consider Helene Darroze (gastronomic portion, and not tapas area), which is also Michelin one-starred and is in the same general price range as L'Astrance. Darroze's cooking is not as lyrical as that of Barbot (and obviously lacks Barbot's Passardian influences), but it is a possible fallback. (Edited by cabrales at 4:25 am on Jan. 13, 2002)

There was approximately the same number of little vials, in a light wooden box, at two places I visited recently. The first is Fauchon Paris; the second, in the entryway of L'Esperance (in the glass-door cupboards directly across from the reception area). I did not review the prices, though. I wonder if one of the vials would contain the smell of "sous bois", or the damp smells of the grounds of a forest after it has rained. (Also, one of the scents some might use to describe some of Veyrat's flavorings). The smell of sous bois can be found in, among others, certain very old champagnes. (Yes, I know one is not supposed to wait too long on champagnes. :) The less appreciated an item, though, the more readily it becomes available to those who prefer it.)

Steven -- Are you referring to summer truffles or Brumales truffles? I would agree that certain French truffles are available all year around, however, I would think that Bruno or Boyer would have to specify if such truffles were being used instead of the more typical French black truffle. Bruno in particular tends to spell out when summer truffles or Brumales are used; he appears to have the traditional black truffle all year around. Is sourcing described in the chapter on Bruno in "Goose in Touluse"? I have also wondered about the differences, if any, between the French black truffle from Southern France and that from Perigord.

"I didn't mean to express a qualitative or rank-order judgement about who are the number ones. I guess I tried to imply a tone that didn't come through in words. It was more in the spirit of "how do you/we know"? and "why can't it be "B" instead of "A"?" Apologies for my late arrival to this thread. I have eaten at various Ducasse establishments (Plaza Athenee, Louis XV, NYC very early this year, Bastide de Moustiers and La Celle facilities under Ducasse supervision and multiple Spoon venues -- although the last three venues should be differentiated based on reduced ambition and cuisine target), and have lost interest in eating at Ducasse establishments again. I would agree that Ducasse offers the only "three star experience" (with service, etc.) in NYC. However, unfortunately, some three stars, like Ducasse's Plaza Athenee, offer cuisine less suited for me. On previous posts about Ducasse's prices, for me the precise extent to which his prices are higher than other NYC restaurants' would become a non-issue IF Ducasse's food could confer fulfillment. If a restaurant offers at least a certain level of fulfillment, I begin to think any price a restaurant would realistically charge is justified (not taking into account wine!). However, below that level of fulfillment (which is relatively high for me and has not generally been met during my meals at Ducasse, Blanc, Pourcels, Taillevent and Bocuse), I begin to concentrate on how expensive a meal is and to compare it to alternatives. I would rather dine at Union Pacific or Chanterelle than go to Ducasse NYC. On the point as to why Chef "X" rather than Chef "Y" should be the number one chef currently, I would say that each diner's assessment of who is best can be deeply personal. It may be the case that the public, or a particular group thereof, consider Chef "X" the best. With all respect, I would not generally feel compelled to accord particular weight to their assessments. However, within the E-Gullet community, I feel a need to voice that, for me and for many informed others, Alain Passard is the number one chef in the world.

On the use of frozen black truffles, it is possible that Bruno at Lorgues uses them (unclear whether from Urbani). Of course, I have only circumstantial supporting factors. Although I have not looked into the matter in detail, French black truffle is generally not available during the summertime. I had quite a bit of black truffle at Bruno during that time, and it was fine. Without any knowledge as to the truffles Boyer uses, I have noted that his dish of "truffe en croute" (whole black truffle cooked in a pastry shell -- wonderful) appears to be available when black truffles are not in season. Speaking of truffles, the other meal I had at Troisgros recently (see "Kobe beef" under "Cooking" for a description of the first :) ) was an all-truffle tasting course, with L'Escalope de Saumon a l'Oseille added out of necessity to sample the dish. The menu was as follows: Aspic de cepes en tasse (aspic of porcini mushrooms in a cup -- this item had crushed black truffles as a top layer) De fine lames de Saint Jacques et de truffe, du cresson sur pain "Melba" (thin slices of scallops and truffles, watercress, on Melba toast) Une rapee de truffe sur un cannelloni aux chanterelles grises (truffles on cannelloni and grey girolle mushrooms) Noix d'huitres chaudes et de la truffe en julienne (warm oysters and truffles) L'Escalope de saumon a l'oseille (salmon with sorrel; see middle (?) part of discussion under "Chef of the Century" thread in "General" for a discussion of signature dishes) La langoustine, la truffe, la poire, le poireau (langoustine, truffles, pear and leeks) Le lievre en deux facons: en royale et en aiguillettes rosees (rabbit in two preparations -- royale and in medium rare slices; perhaps the weakest dish of an otherwise good meal) Instant de douceurs Quarts sucres The above was served with a to-die-for 1988 Montrachet, Lafon, and a nice half-bottle of 1978 Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan. Champagne by the glass was 1995 Moet et Chandon. (Edited by cabrales at 6:02 am on Jan. 3, 2002)