cabrales

I can't be sure as this is not a chef whose cuisine I particularly like, but 6 would be my guess for Ducasse. (3 for Plaza Athenee; 2 for Louis XV; 1 new star for Bastide. I assume zero for La Celle and, thank goodness, for Spoon). But Ducasse's 6 is not as good as Veyrat's 2*3 (which is really 3, as Auberge is closed when Ferme is open, and vice versa). Note Ramsay has 5 (3 for RHR, 1 for Petrus if you count affiliates and co-owned restaurants, 1 new star for Amaryllis in Glasgow last month). However, I wouldn't put much emphasis on how many "additional" stars a given three-star chef has. That's a function, in large part, of whether the chef has chosen to be low-key and non-commercialized (like Pacaud), not engaging in extracurricular activities, or more profit-oriented and publicity-driven (like Loiseau or Ducasse). Patricia Wells' article of March 2001 (an open letter to Michelin re: Guy Savoy) is a stark example of advocacy-oriented food reviewing: http://www.patriciawells.com/reviews/iht/2001/2303.htm I have to say I don't attribute particular weight to Wells' recommendations (her L'Astrance article notwithstanding). I think Wells is overrated, especially in the US. I prefer other sources, like Michelin (stars thread notwithstanding).

The new Michelin three-stars for France were released earlier than anticipated. They are Ledoyen (Christian Le Squer) and Guy Savoy in Paris, and l'Arnsbourg at Untermuhlthal, near Baerenthal en Moselle (Jean-Georges Klein). As BON reported on the Japanese board, Hiroyuki Hiramatsu's new restaurant received a star within less than a year of opening -- almost as quickly as L'Astrance did in a prior year. Other interesting new one-stars: Angle du Faubourg (Paris; created by Taillevent owner Vrinat); Ghislaine Arabian (Paris; yes, a woman chef! ) ; Bastide de Moustiers (Moustiers Sainte-Marie; between Nice and Marseilles; the chef formerly there Witz (sic) should now be at another Ducasse establishment at La Celle). Le Crocodile (Emile Jung; Strasbourg) was downgraded from 3 to 2 stars. Some quotes from affected chefs: Guy Savoy: "I feel total happiness." "It's like winning an Olympic gold." "It's the culmination, the manifestation, the acknowledgment of all your work." (Personally, I would rather Guy Savoy's star have been returned to J-M Lorain of La Cote Saint Jacques.) Emile Jung: "No words can appease the pain that is eating away at out hearts and stifling our spirits." "Since 1989 three stars have shone from its walls. Today, one of them has gone out." "Every day for 30 years, Le Crocodile has served up excellence, ceaseless work and deep dedication marked with the little touches and creativity that are ceaselessly poured into the cooking." (Ironically, for the 30-year celebration Jung and his wife had been to Egypt and had featured some Egyptian-titled dishes on their menu.) Moved up from 1 star to 2 stars: Le Moulin de Mougins (Roger Verge; demoted from 3 to 2, and then from 2 to 1 previously), Les Muses at Hôtel Scribe, Paris (Yannick Alleno), L'hôtel de Carantec (Patrick Jeffroy), L'Amphytrion at Lorient (Jean-Paul Abadie), L'Auberge de l'Ile at Lyon (Jean-Claude Ansanay-Alex), L'Hostellerie Jérôme at La Turbie (Bruno Cirino), and les Terrasses du Grand Hotel at Uriage-les-Bains (Philippe Bouissou). Moved down from 2 stars to 1: L'Hostellerie La Poularde at Montrond-les-Bains, and Les Trois Marches at Versailles. Moved down from 1 star to 0: La Mère Brazier (originating point of the chicken in half mourning dish) at Lyons, la Tour Rose at Lyons; Beauvilliers, le Trou Gascon (Dutournier's quasi-bistro) and la Table d'Anvers, all in Paris.

ajay -- A quick example of a Gagnaire dish. Dorade royale au sel de Maldon; figue seche, noissette, citron confit et papaya rapee (sea bream with salt; dried figs, hazelnuts, lemon confit and grated papaya) -- This is indicative of Gagnaire's unwarranted complexity. Note the number of ingredients, many of which are redundant. Also note that not included in the menu description of the dish was a single haricot vert placed on top of the fish, and a very lengthy piece of leek added presumably for purported artistic effect. Sillier was the way the salt was added -- a dining room team came by each diner with a round salt squeezer. The grated papaya tasted like green apple. The fish itself was quite good, but it was accompanied by so many different ingredients (leaving aside other spices and seasonings). Have you made progress on reservations?

Steve Klc -- I'm glad you mention Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial -- I do like the sweetness in it, but it does not appear to be readily available in the UK. I vaguely recollect it may have been created by M&C specifically for the US (or other non-French) market. I drink Nectar Imperial quite a lot when it is available. I have been exploring old champagnes of late. (My wine knowledge is very limited.) Many old champagnes drink like wine, and I am curious as to whether an old single-grape Chardonnay champagne (like a 1979 Salon I recently had) might be a possibility for accompanying dessert as well? That Salon worked well as an after-dinner drink, at a minimum, before dessert. On icewine, I did not know that Canada produces icewine until recently. Have you used that country's icewine in, or as an accompaniment to, dessert? Finally, if you have actually utilized a wine ingredient (e.g., icewine gelee) in a dessert, have there been instances where you have chosen a different wine to accompany the dessert?

thom -- Thanks for your response :) If the relevant information is readily available and you are comfortable responding, please consider providing us with background on the reasons the Disclosure thread was discussed in the article, over Michelin Stars and A Balic.

Andy -- I can't seem to find neighborhood magazine stands with Restaurant Magazine. Can you bring a copy tonight? Also, by the Blumenthal thread, do you mean "Disclosure"?!

Ellen -- When I'm movie-going with good friends or alone, and I have timely replenished my home supply (which is quickly depleted when in season) -- cherries (not "squishy" ones, though). I wash them at home, and seal them into a Ziploc plastic bag. However, I don't always have the time or advance notice to make these arrangements. I don't feel guilty bringing an item if the theater cannot offer it. I do buy coffee or bottled water, and occasionally when I feel like it, hot dogs and M&Ms. I haven't implemented this thought yet, but some champagne makers (including M&C)have very small bottles that could easily be placed inside a handbag for movie visits. A problem would be the logistics of chilling the champagne, etc. I brought mountain Gorgonzola, smoked chicken, red cherries and a tin of foie gras to a multiple-hour, open-air event last year. It was Pavarotti singing in Hyde Park. I paid eighteen pounds for tickets and sat on a garbage bag (which I had also anticipated needing). Even though Safeway was the sponsor, bringing food was not prohibited. But alcohol was. I smuggled in a half-bottle of Moet & Chandon (not my preferred champagne, but I was worried about confiscation should it have been discovered) by hiding it underneath my windbreaker.

macrosan -- This has probably been mentioned elsewhere, but the regular prix fixe dinner (there are only prix fixe meals and a tasting menu there, at least during dinnertime) is at 65 pounds for three courses (cheese can be one of the three, but would have to replace dessert unless extra payment is made -- in fact, cheese has a supplement even when taken in lieu of dessert). The "menu prestige" or tasting menu is somewhat higher. And then, of course, there's wine ..... The food price can be a lot to spend, but, if you did not go, would you always wonder about RHR? Bux mentioned curiosity in this thread; I share his feelings in that regard. If I had not tried RHR or La Tante Claire before and hypothetically needed to go for 1 week on Campbell's soup (some varieties of which I like!) and bread and cheese (blue; a selection) to have a meal there, I would do so. And those restaurants, while restaurants I appreciate quite a bit, are not ones I adore

Below is an attempt to replicate a post from early yesterday, which was affected by the system upgrade. I recently had dinner at Gordon Ramsay RHR: braised pork belly with langoustines and a subdued horseradish sauce; venison with a subtle and appropriate thin chocolate sauce, with little cubes of celery root; and a chocolate fondant with *milk* ice cream that was most delicious (the milk ice cream is a pairing I did not notice in 2001 menus). The venison was medium rare, and prepared very much to my liking. It matched the 1997 Lafite Rothschild ordered, which was not too young to drink. I also noted I have been separately contemplating ordering venison rare. In response to another member's question about the price of the wine (which I will leave for separate replication), I indicated it was approximately 220 to 250 pounds. I did not mind the pricing because the venison dish was very pleasing in hindsight. I would have minded purchasing the wine if the meal had not been disappointing. I noted there was 1992 Dom Perignon by the glass, which was nice when sipped with the normal pumpkin soup amuse (mushrooms, parmesan and white truffle oil). I was also asked whether GR was at RHR the night of this meal. I responded that I would not know either way, given GR's tendencies not to "smooze" with clients. I have never been invited to the kitchen, and have no desire to be. I have only seen GR twice -- (1) once at Claridge's when he was talking to the dining room staff in the little after-dinner salon, and (2) at RHR, when I had a early reservation and arrived even earlier. I suggested that, so long as the cuisine was yummy, it did not particularly matter to me whether GR and/OR other members of his team were in the kitchen.

Robert -- I have thought vaguely about going to Greuze, after hearing that one of the established dishes there is "pâté en croûte Alexandre Dumaine" (pate in a crust, Alexandre Dumaine). That interested me because Dumaine is often described as having had fewer disciples to carry on his work (particularly relative to F. Point), and the appropriate weight, in the evaluation of a chef, to be accorded to legacy and training of other chefs was raised in "Chef of the Century" under "General". http://www.relaischateaux.com/site/fr/Fich...t?RcCode=greuze (one of the pictures appears to be of the pate) The only other dish I know of that is named after Alexandre Dumaine is Loiseau's dish "Poularde de Bresse à la vapeur 'Alexandre Dumaine' au riz truffé" (steamed Bresse chicken, Alexandre Dumaine, with truffled rice). Loiseau did not apprentice under Dumaine; he acquired La Cote d'Or in Saulieu, the former facility of Dumaine. There is an Alexandre Dumaine dining room right next to the reception area for the hotel, with certain old menus and press clippings from Dumaine. It seems to be used frequently for breakfast. http://www.bernard-loiseau.com/uk/indexsommaire.htm (select "The Restaurants", then "In Saulieu --> The Chicken Alexandre Dumaine") I agree with Robert that Loiseau's cuisine is not inspired; but then, there are not that many chefs whose cuisine is.

Bux & macrosan -- As suggested in my last post, it does not matter to me whether GR (or Mark Askew, for that matter) is there so long as his cuisine, and the other aspects of the restaurant experience, are at the same level without him. Before I first visit a restaurant, the reputation (in the assessment of critics or other reviewing diners that I respect) of the chef would be a factor in how high on my "to do" list of restaurants to sample a given establishment might be placed. After my first visit, however, reputation becomes less important because I will have had at least a meal there on which to judge the restaurant's suitability for me. Perhaps, if a first visit progresses poorly, a chef's reputation might prompt me to give a restaurant more "second chances" to further attempt to understand it. On the naming of restaurants, it does not change my expectations about chef attendance when a restaurant is called "Gordon Ramsay" relative to a case, like L'Ambroisie, in which most diners know that Bernard Pacaud is the chef. A baseline requirement is that the cuisine be based on recipes and direction of the supervising chef, who bears the responsibility for the consistency and quality of the cuisine. I agree with many of the points made by Bux. Pacaud does not make rounds, and I have never seen him. But I do not feel jilted on account of that (i.e., not knowing whether Pacaud was in the kitchen). So why should it be any different for GR? macrosan -- On Conran, I'd have to say his restaurants have a style and defined quality alright, it's just not a positive one in my mind

pcloguda -- The limited number of people who have commented recently on relevant restaurants could not be a majority :) On Meneau, I liked his oysters in gelee quite a bit. What was noteworthy about the menu you saw? Some of his more recent appetizer creations could have been a bit "off". See "Argan Oil" under "Cooking"; "White Truffles; Woodcock" under "United Kingdom and Ireland".

ajay -- A recent meal at L'Ambroisie was not as impressive as previous experience with the restaurant (even then, I had not liked the langoustines with curry appetizer). From the Winter menu (there are no tasting menus at L'Ambroisie), I chose: Huitres "speciales" chaudes au caviar, sabayon au cresson (hot oysters with caviar and watercress sabayon) Viennoise d'oeufs de poule mollets, mouillettes a la truffe (a boiled egg with a molten yolk and breadcrumbs surrounding the egg; the egg was placed on an edible flat, bread-based stand amidst an intense truffle sauce; however, breadcrumb part could have been better prepared with respect to deep-frying?) Blanc de turbot braise aux deux celeris, julienne de truffe (turbot with celery, truffle effects; this dish was ever-so-slightly overcooked, and underseasoned for my tastes) (Also note I tend to be quirky when it comes to food generally, so take my negative comments on a place with a grain of salt.) If you like ADNY (with which I was not particularly impressed, when I went a number of months ago), have you considered Plaza Athenee? Or would you consider that a suboptimal use of a meal, given you have already tried a Ducasse establishment? I find comparisons, including among restaurants supervised by the same chef, quite engaging. I am not eager to visit Ducasse establishments, so other members would have to provide input comparing the menus at ADNY and Plaza Athenee.

At RHR -- Mark Askew. I read in some London magazine (TimeOut??) that it *might* be Angela ? from Dubai who might head up the Connaught (with possibly an all-female team in the kitchen), and that the GR restaurant at the hotel might be Italian (!) and might be called Bellini.

ajay -- I could post on Gagnaire if you do not receive information from members who like his cuisine. The key to reservations is to just try -- there's no harm to a rejection. To maximize your chances, call the restaurants without the 30-day policy very shortly. Call Troisgros during the daytime, when you might have a better chance. Also, bear in mind the days of the week different restaurants in Paris are available to maximize your meal opportunities. As an example, Gagnaire is open Sunday nights, unlike all other three stars in Paris; Lucas-Carton and L'Ambroisie (which might be more classical choices) are the only three stars in Paris open on Saturday nights; L'Ambroisie is open for Saturday lunch as well. L'Astrance is open all four meals during weekends. Georges Blanc -- I have not had particularly good experiences at, with respect to food. See Steve P's year in food thread, where less-than-fond memories of Blanc's cuisine are described by Steve P and by me. I wouldn't want to put up any mental barriers for you with respect to any restaurant, however (Gagnaire included). You might have very different preferences from mine. I would recommend Lorain at La Cote Saint-Jacques in Joigny (less than 2.5 hours from Paris by TGV; access from Lyons by train not yet explored) over Georges Blanc and over Marc Meneau at L'Esperance. I liked a recent meal at Joigny quite a bit. See the appetizer described under "What are vegetarians missing" in "General". If you are interested in sampling Blanc's general approach, an inexpensive way is to visit his bistro-like establishment in Lyons itself. The name eludes me at the moment, but it is directly opposite one of the Bocuse bistros. There, you would not have the flexibility to sample the range of Bocuse's Bresse chicken dishes (including a salt preparation for two people, and the G7 style with foie gras sauce). However, there is Bresse chicken in a cream sauce. This might be a possibility for your "jet-lagged" period when you have just arrived in Lyons. As you may know, the other three stars (NB: Lorain and Meneau are recent demotees, but, as Steven Shaw noted in his article on Lorain, I would not place weight on Lorain's demotion) accessible from Lyons are (1) Paul Bocuse -- actually in Lyons; the food was somewhat disappointing (but the chef is significant to French culinary history); (2) Lameloise in Chagny; and (3) Bernard Loiseau's La Cote d'Or in Saulieu. I would recommend Lorain over the other restaurants mentioned in this paragraph. Tasting menus are a good way to sample a restaurant's cuisine for the first time. If you do not like the particular tasting menu offered, it becomes a delicate question whether you can ask the restaurant to, for example, split two appetizers among two diners so each can have his own plate and hot items will not lose their appropriate temperature in the event of "plate swapping" (I would appreciate other members' input on whether that should not be undertaken).

The Troisgros hotel is very modern, both in design and with respect to amenities. The colors, both in the common areas and in the rooms, are vibrant (e.g., burgundy, olive, white). Patterns and textures are appropriately utilized. There are multiple seating areas that are comfortable and beautiful (e.g., gastronomic library with burgundy, "cushy" sofas; bar/seating area on the ground floor). Even my 900 FF room had a seating area. If you like Jardin des Sens' decor (which I do, although not the Pourcels' food), Troisgros will appeal. See the smaller pictures in the below site for an example of the hotel's decor: http://www.relaischateaux.com/site/us/Fich...cCode=troisgros The food is outstanding, especially if you like little sour touches like vinegar or lemon peel. Troisgros is currently closed; you might want to check it will have reopened by the time you arrive in France.

ajay -- I have no information on the reopened Bouley, but the old Bouley (Duane Street) was my favorite restaurant in NYC (in fact, in the US). And the experience would generally begin with the warm scent of apples when I walked in... I have not found Bouley Bakery to be an acceptable substitute. Please report as information becomes available, including on reservation policies.

ajay -- Troisgros and Arpege are the way to go. I would put in a strong word for L'Astrance (16th) -- which takes reservations exactly 1 month in advance (i.e., you still have an opportunity based on your trip start date). At L'Astrance, the prices are wonderfully suppressed. You should consider calling (by phone) each place soon. :) Not speaking French will not be a problem at these three restaurants. I would recommend against Gagnaire, but that is a subjective call. Having a vegetarian diner will not be a problem at Arpege, where vegetables are prominent. However, there is a tasting menu, included on the menu, that is generally offered only to the whole table, and you should consider how to handle the related issues (perhaps an inquiry of the dining room team after being seated). Same issue at L'Astrance, which has a wonderful surprise menu called Menu L'Astrance. L'Astrance has fewer vegetarian dishes, though. As for Troisgros, when I went there in 4Q 2001, the menu was as posted on the website currently. There were only two potential vegetarian appetizers, and no vegetarian entrees. L’aubergine en gelée fraîche au citron vert, une pincée de cumin (aubergine in a green lemon gelee, a bit of cumin; this is a very interesting dish) La raviole de potimarron aux amandes douces, huile de menthe (ravioli filled with pumpkin-like item with almonds and mint oil) The rooms at Troisgros are worth it, and begin at 900 FF (less than 150 euros) or lower. Modern and attractive, just like the restaurant. Booking a room would guarantee a reservation, but the rooms need to be booked in advance too. If you have not already viewed, see "Kobe beef" and "Frozen Truffles" under "Cooking". Steve P reported he was happy with his meals at Troisgros (see his post on his year in food) and Arpege. There is a direct train between one of the two Lyons train stations (Pardieu, Perrache, sic) and Roanne. The Troisgros restaurant is directly opposite the Roanne train station; the train ride should be no more than 2 hours. (Note: There is a TGV between Paris and Lyons). Veyrat's Auberge de l'Eridan near Annecy (sic) is closed because his whole team is at Ferme de Mon Pere, in Megeve (around the same general area). Ferme is open. The closest train station to Megeve is Sallanches, which has a direct TGV from Paris. From Sallanches, a bus can be taken to Megeve. Veyrat's rooms are very expensive. Based on my meals at Auberge, I prefer the cuisine of Veyrat's pupil, Loubet (Moulin de Loumarin in Southern France) to Veyrat's. However, some of Veyrat's dishes were objectively interesting (e.g., involving the utilization of mountain herbs), and they tasted fairly good in general. If you order his lengthier tasting menu "Symphony" (240 euros p.p.), you will get to taste at least 60-70% of the dishes on his a la carte menu (taking into account freebies thrown in from the latter menu). However, the Symphony menu will contain many things your vegetarian friend cannot take. Note the pricing a la carte is very expensive relative to either the menu Symphony or the lower-price tasting menu "Sonata". I reviewed the sample menu for Ferme from the below website, and the two vegetarian dishes were (unclear if appetizers or entrees): Purée de rates de l'albanais aux truffes fraîches 122 € (note high a la carte prices; Potato puree with truffles) Le bocal de légumes oubliés (une envolée de saveurs) 106 € ("Forgotten", i.e., lesser known, vegetables) http://www.marcveyrat.com/index.htm Certain diners at Ferme reportedly can view chicken (yes, A Balic!), cows and other animals during their meal. A possibility for your trip, but with a lot of wasted time to commute to/from Megeve. I would recommend Troisgros over Veyrat.

Yvonne -- If you find yourself on Maui, fish would be the way to go!! I like to try rare breeds, whether it be fish or meat, and Hawaii-specific fish can be sampled at most establishments. Also, Maui produces a special onion that is worthwhile sampling. If you find yourself on the Wailea side of the island, consider: Humuhumunukunukuapua`a, the informal restaurant at the Grand Wailea Hotel -- Tends to offer the Hawaiian fish after which it is named. The flesh is not bad. Not as expensive as its location within the Grand Wailea might suggest. Pacific Grill, Four Seasons -- Certain nice Asian-inspired preparations (but more expensive than the above alternative). http://www.fourseasons.com/maui/dining/dining_74.html (includes a sample menu with (1) Steamed Ehu, Oriental Style with Shiitake Mushrooms, Ginger and Sizzling Sesame Oil, and (2) Island Snapper, Steamed in Banana Leaf with Kula Tomatoes, Nioi Tomato Broth and Island Blossom). People always mention the buffet at the Maui Prince, but it is overrated and specialty fish are underrepresented.

I wonder if any non-Chinese restaurants mentioned on the board have fish tanks (including in their kitchens) containing certain fish, lobsters, etc. that may be terminated on the premises and served? I do not know of any, except for (1) the less formal restaurant named after the Hawaiian state fish at the Grand Wailea, Maui, where one can get that fish and others, and (2) La Langousterie in Paris, a mediocre restaurant serving South African langoustes (aka one type of spiny rock lobster) not worth visiting.

Malawry -- Choosing the progression and the set of dishes I will receive from an a la carte menu is an integral part of the restaurant experience. I wouldn't want to miss that. When you were not eating fish, did you take small bites from dining companions' dishes only when they had vegetarian dishes too? That could be another unhappy limitation ;) On alternatives to salmon, is bass offered from time to time at restaurants in the D.C. area? I like, among other things, turbot and skate too. When not overcooked, turbot served "bones in" can present slivers of flesh in between relatively lengthy bone pieces. When not close to the surface of the fish and when in fish that is not overcooked, that flesh can have some tenderness and harbor semi-gelatinous connotations (the ideal texture is difficult to describe). Unfortunately, turbot I order is not always prepared to my satisfaction. (Edited by cabrales at 5:28 am on Feb. 8, 2002)

Sandra -- The dish was on Guy Savoy's menu in October/November 2001, listed as Huitres en nage glacee (44.21 euros or 290FF). I have never sampled this dish, though. (I request menus from restaurants after a meal, when circumstances permit). (Edited by cabrales at 7:01 am on Feb. 8, 2002)

Steve -- Your advice will be pursued and written up within the next few months, I hope. Apart from orange blossom flower infusion and verbena infusion, I have not sampled any infusions. The infusion trolley sounds interesting. I ate at Petrossian Paris recently, but did not focus on the infusions. The saumon blanc fume (white smoked salmon) was distinctive-tasting in a light, good way. It was accompanied by a small glass cup containing confit tomatoes, coupled with gaucamole and aged Gouda (sic) cheese. I went to the restaurant to sample Aquitaine caviar, but that disappointed because it was too similar to Iranian. The place has a relatively modern, clean decor. The cooking appears to be more modern than that at Petrossian NYC too.

Steve -- For me, RHR , with its glass effects and muted lighting, is more pleasing than the spacious dining room at Claridge's. But I generally prefer smaller restaurant areas. I do like, however, the old mirrors with designs on the edges of the reflecting surface and the height of the ceiling at Claridge's. One reason GR may want to keep RHR as the three-star restaurant is that the two-seating-per-meal policy is better retained at Claridge's from a profit maximization perspective. Sometimes I feel I would rather take a meal at Claridge's than RHR. I know the Claridge's kitchen will be fast, to accommodate the two services, and the facility is open on weekends. Perhaps wrongly, I do not feel the need to dress up as much as I would for RHR. However, I vaguely remember reading that GR has video cameras watching diners at Claridge's. A bit intrusive, although this practice may be shared by certain NYC establishments.

Malawry -- Thanks, again -- for the added description! I like jam too. I use jam and jellies a bit at home. Since I cannot cook, I might open up a little tin of foie gras and dress it with a few scoops of bitter, bitter orange marmelade (perhaps not for everybody), or blood orange or dark cherry jam. Many places here in London have a decent jam selection, and certain restaurants I visit in the French provinces (the ones with recognized chefs) have boutiques where all sorts of things (from aprons and knifes with logos, serving utensils, duck confit to jams) are sold. Only some of these boutiques have jams made by the restaurant/chef (e.g., Bernard Loiseau), though; many offer (often equally good) jam by third parties. I started liking jam because I liked it with scones (the ones with yellow-colored raisins embedded) when they were crumbly and not rigid. I have not had an afternoon tea set in quite a while (Angelina in Paris being on my list, as I have never visited). But, if it were up to me, I would not prefer the tall, vertical trays replete with sandwiches and mini pastries and tarts. I would order scones with a selection of jam. Another aspect of jam -- the grains associated with certain fruit. I had orange/vanilla jam with little madelaines at the end of a meal at Helene Darroze (Paris). See "L'Astrance -- Paris" under "France". There were probably 5-6 different flavors of jam on a little serving cart, and there might have been one type of honey available for the madelaines as well (?). For more on butter, see Steve Plotnicki's post under "Dinner at Arpege" in "France", which also contains interesting descriptions of vegetable-based dishes. Your mention of vegetarian dishes at restaurants led me to wonder whether you minded that your choice of dishes at restaurants (and, possibly, your choice of restaurants) may have been constrained when you ate neither meat nor fish. Were there many restaurants where there were no more than two or three vegetarian entrees available? indiagirl -- You appear to be very capable at, and interested in, cooking yourself. This is in sharp contrast to my situation, with respect to capabilities at least. Might the potential advantages of eating at (and otherwise experiencing) more restaurants (including restaurants lacking a meaningful vegetarian selection) appeal to you?