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cabrales

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Everything posted by cabrales

  1. From the article: "The short ribs are delicious but overpower the chuck." The short ribs have several roles in the db burger, to which the article does not refer. First, one of Daniel's signature dishes (apart from the bass in paupiette) at the main restaurant is braised short ribs in red wine sauce. Granted, the short ribs don't appear to be the same short ribs as those in the db burger. However, there is a hidden reference there potentially -- one which reinforces the chef's intention that the burger be gastronomic. Per Boulud's website, there is currently a dish called "LE BOEUF ET LE CELERI. Duo of Braised Short Ribs in Red Wine and Peppered Filet Mignon with Celery Root Purée and Braised Green Celery Stalks". The braised short ribs are not always served with filet mignon, but the wine braising and the short ribs are emblematic of Daniel restaurant. Second, in my view, the short ribs portion of the patty adds texture as much as flavor. The short ribs are soft-ish, and have a moist "strand-like" texture to them. The red wine braising is rather subtle, and the ribs themselves are appropriately subtle in the burger when the burger is ordered rare. When ordered rare, the beef non-ribs meat is supple, tender and moist, and is not such a stark contrast, one may argue (with counterarguments), to the ribs as if one ordered the burger medium well, say, and the non-ribs meat were harder and more "formed" as a patty. I believe reviewers have been overlooking the key role of db's asking diners for how cooked or rare they want their patty, and how that decision can affect the burger experience at db. Third, in the new burger, the short ribs have a further role of matching quite well with the black truffle slices.
  2. I believe there is some risk of that in 2004/5, although that is based on only one meal since Alain took over. More visits might be unavailable prior to the 2004 for me.
  3. I had a good-plus meal at Le Bernardin recently. One dish (the uni and caviar composition) was very good; certain others were less good. If the uni and caviar composition were removed from the equation, I would only have rated the meal good. Note I continue to favor taking in fish dishes at Blue Hill over LeB. The meal began with a glass of Laurent Perrer Rose ($18). (Taittinger Comtes de Champagne was also available by the glass.) Nibbles taken at the bar, waiting for my table (9:30 reservation), were (a) "twisted" cheese straws and (b) salmon rillettes (more like diced salmon) with little bread slices. Chef's Tasting Menu ($130/person; $225 with wine pairings) The meal began with an amuse of Maine shrimp, with a garlic and tomato foam. The shrimp was presented with its head intacdt, and was passable. I have long believed that amuses is an area in which LeB could make improvement. (1) TUNA-HAMACHI Patchwork of Tuna and Hamachi Sashimi Lightly Brushed with Yuzu Vinaigrette, with Riesling Domaine Paul Blanck 2001 Little rectangles of slices of salmon and yellowtail were presented side-by-side to form the patchwork. There was only one row of these rectangles. The yuzu saucing was in a thickish layer on top of the raw salmon and yellowtail, and included little onion dices (for crunchiness), a bit of lemon jus and chives. The acidity of the yuzu was suppressed by connotations of ginger (?). Overall, this dish was not impressive because the taste of salmon with the yuzu saucing was not harmonious with that of yellowtail with the same saucing. The sum was less than parts of this dish. The Riesling was average. (2) CAVIAR-SEA URCHIN Warm Sea Urchin and Iranian Osetra Caviar Nestled in Sea Urchin Linguine, with Chassagne-Montrachet Ramonet 2000 A very good dish. The linguini-like pasta was nicely curled in a little heap, and cooked to be softened to more than al dente (appropriate for this dish, so the pasta does not dominate). Nice sentiments of the seat from the osetra and the sea urchin. Also, nice display of the saltiness of the osetra against the buttery sensations of the pasta. The pasta was a bit coated with a butter with sea urchin sensations (different from the whole pieces on top of the pasta). Appealing pairing with Chassagne-Montrachet -- I like Ramonet, but here the 2000 vintage could perhaps wait a bit. (This dish has a $50 supplement when taken as part of the regular prix fixe menu, whose base price is $84) (3) SALMON Barely cooked Salmon on a Bed of Red Wine Braised Leeks; Black Truffle "Butter Vinaigrette", with Kistler "Les Noisetiers" (Chardonnay) 2999 The salmon had been slowly poached in bouillon, and lacked the luciousness of poaching in goose fat or olive oil. The bouillon for the cooking of the salmon apparently included dashi, seaweed infusion, smoked tuna, shitake and maitake mushrooms and scallion (?). The saucing did not add the necessary sensations of slinkiness. The dish was still appropriate, and the sweetness of the leeks helped slightly. (4) HALIBUT Steamed Halibut in an Orange-Ginger Scented Dashi Broth; Maitake and Oyster Mushroom Medley, with Condrieu "Cuvee de Breze" Domaine Cheze 2000 A poor dish. The dashi was extremely salty, and the halibut itslef was only average. The wine pairing could also be readjusted. (5) LOBSTER Roasted Maine Lobster with Asparagus and Baby Leeks; Black Pepper- Brandy Butter Sauce, with Volnay 1er Cru "Les Taillepieds" Domaine Hubert de Montille 1997 A nice dish, although the serving size was very small (2 small "body" pieces and one small claw). An intense sauce, but nothing particularly special. A nice example of the pairing of a red wine with seafood. (6) YUZU Yuzu Lemon Tart and Ginger Parfait topped with a Thin Caramel Tuile, with Chateau Rieussec 1996 (7) Comp'd second dessert of chocolate -- Not meaningfully sampled. Wine pours were on the meager side. Portion size for dishes was also small. With the champagne, bottled water and coffee, $278 after tax and before tips. Service was very good. Not unexpectedly, a number of dining room team members spoke French.
  4. johnjohn -- Yes, both the original db burger and the new burger are sliced in 1/2. Each side has a longish toothpick-like small wooden spear (light wood) to hold it in place slightly. The top of the spear that shows is circular and has the "db" logo on it. The burger patty and the bun have less "base" area than the usual McDonald's burger (as a point of reference). Thus, there is more height, and less "base" area. The burger seems "plumper". The burger can be eaten with one's hands, so it is not difficult to eat. One does have to take largish bites, but that can be done politely. Interestingly, there is no finger bowl for the burger; one presumably uses one's "regular" napkin.
  5. Another approach, to which I partially adhere, is to see visiting a restaurant as both a process (of taking in the cuisine, service, decor, etc.) and as producing a substantive outcome (an assessment of the quality of the cuisine). Thus, when substantively the cuisine is sub-par (relative to my expectations), I do not generally regret having visited a restaurant. It's a process of discovery and exploration. I can still be somewhat excited about visiting a restaurant whose cuisine I have lower expectations about. Of course, I anticipate more a visit to a restaurant with a more developed cuisine. It is incredibly difficult to find a meal with which I am entirely satisfied, outside of perhaps less than a handful of restaurants in the world. But I believe high standards are a good thing in the context of restaurant going.
  6. Thanks to member David Bizer, we have today's Le Figaro cover-page article on "Hamburger Wars in New York". http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=10&t=15734 I have provided a *very rough* translation of the Le Figaro article below: In New York, it's war. Already? Yes ... but it is infinitely more frivolous and a lot less dangerous, because there is no physical danger. In summary, hamburger wars are raging there. It's not a rivalry among franchisees of the McDonalds, Burger King, Wendy's, Horaces and Curiaces fast food chains. It is bewteen vaulted cuisiniers who look to produce a refined cuisine using buns. It's about who sells the most expensive burger, which is presumably the best burger. The battle began last week with a restaurant known for the quality of its meat. Old Homestead. Its burger is based on Kobe beef. Why that in the country of cowboys [literal translation, here]? Because, in this Japanese area, cows receive a special feed, drink beer and have their flesh massaged. [The article does not make clear whether the Old Homestead burger's beef is Wagyu variety raised in the US, or in Japan, but almost seems to suggest the latter. I am unsure where OH sources its Wagyu beef from?] In the stables, soothing music is broadcast to reduce stress. The cows there are mad, but with joy. This chic treatment without stress renders the flesh incomparably tender. The bill is also incomparable: 41 dollars, or about the same amount of euros. At that rate, one can have a whole meal. Heralding French cuisine in New York, chef Daniel Boulud could not leave the Japan-American actions remain without an answer deserving of Boulud's reputation. He already had a hamburger on this menu; we are in the US, after all. He decided to add to the composition of foie gras, truffles and fresh parmesan [i'm not sure fresh parmesan is in the burger]. This increased the price from 29 to 50 dollars. 60 with service, whcih is not included. It was our compatriot who holds the title of having the most expensive hamburger. Eric Blauberg of Club 21 only has a 26 dollar burger. For that price, one receives only a garnish based on duck's fat, thyme and marjolaine (spelling). The most expensive, is it the best? Ed Levine, New York Times restaurant critic [is that his title?], was guarded. "I have eaten", he confesses, "burgers for many days in pursuit of that question". What hard work! "I visited all regions of the city. And in the smallest places as well as the most chic restaurants, I was satisfied. New York, my research indicates, is hamburger heaven. " One does not know where hell would be for the consumer. If Ed Levine decides to leave food writing, a career might be available in diplomacy.
  7. Do members have input on the newish Bistro Jeanty at Jack's, in SF itself?
  8. cabrales

    Upselling

    On the Greuze episdoe, I don't blame Greuze because I do not expect restaurants (even expensive ones) to be deliver perfection. The Greuze episode resulted from several factors, including (i) mistake on the part of the person initially taking my reservation, when I communicated clearly about the request for a coq au vin and received assurances, (ii) my own failure, due to having had too good a time at another restaurant, to call earlier than the night before to confirm, and (iii) the restaurant's mistaken inferences about my level of culinary knowledge and expectations. The "coq au vin" outcome was poor, and I do believe this restaurant was, unusually in my experience relative to other venues, trying to pass off a non-coq au vin dish as one. However, that is not gouging. That is responding to an unfortunate situation, on the part of the restaurant. I would not have chosen the same response, were I in the restaurant's shoes. However, the response was a reasonable one (not a justified one, though). For example, how many of their guests would really discern the difference? Pragmatic, at least. I note that the Greuze episode might not be an example of profit maximization. For example, the restaurant might appreciate that most of its diners from out of town travel to Tournus deliberately to eat there. (Tournus is a very small town) Thus, perhaps the restaurant did not want to disappoint me, and thought the best approach would be to present a "coq au vin". Also, I do not mind if a restaurant is seeking to maximize profits over the short term. Who am I to say that that is an inappropriate strategy? The market forces may well discipline a short-term profit maximizer who does not have an appropriate cuisine, as imperfect as the market might be. If the market is imperfect because most diners cannot tell the difference between an appropriate cuisine or not, then the problem is not with the strategy of restaurants.
  9. lizziee -- Were you literally intending to indicate that Rochat does certain things (cuisine?) "better than anybody else"? Could you clarify which restaurants you are including in the "anybody else"? I will post in the next little while on a poor meal there.
  10. If members recall, what dishes is Rochat known for?
  11. vmilor -- I took in a below-average (for a three-star) meal at Rochat within the last two years. I acknowledge I need more data points to evaluate this restaurant; I am particularly interested in taking in omble chevalier at this facility. The restaurant's decor leaves much to be desired. I have never taken in Girardet's cuisine. However, I am very interested in Pont de Brent and the third three-star in the general vicinity of Pont de Brent and Rochat. Could you provide input on how to access these places using the train and other public transportation? What is positive about the cuisine at PdB and similar places? With all respect, I do not see anything negative about greed in a cuisinier. Restaurants are around to, among other things, maximize profits. Restaurants should feel free to choose to demand deposits and to cash them before a diner's arrival. Under what mechanics would the restaurant be the party giving you the exchange rate, as opposed to your credit card company or another third party? Did you send a check or money order to the restaurant directly? I see to be in the minority on the board in my views on restaurants being appropriately profit-maximizing.
  12. Jewel Bako in NY (see my posts in thread under that forum) uses green tea powder in some of its appetizers. I like the bitterness and mattness of the ingredient, although the balance in dishes that include it has to be carefully considered.
  13. vmilor -- If you are comfortable discussing it, what were the factors that modified your practices?
  14. From the recipe page for Crisp Paupiette of Sea Bass in a Barolo Sauce on Daniel Boulud's web site: "Paul Bocuse's Rouget en Écailles de Pomme de Terre inspired this exquisite dish of tender fish fillets wrapped in a crisp crust of sliced potatoes. But since those beautifully briny red mullets from the Mediterranean are rarely available in this country, I suggest sea bass, which makes a superb substitute." Bux -- Consistent with your description, Brenner notes in "The Fourth Star" (pp. 101-2) the paupiette of sea bass: "'It's one of Daniel's signature dishes,' he [Charles, a captain] says. 'It is very good.' Originally inspired by Paul Bocuse's Rouget en Ecailles de Pomme de Terre (rouget in potato scales), the dish dates back to Boulud's tenure at Le Cirque. The sea bass fillets are wrapped in paper-thin slices of potato, cooked a la poele (in a pan) to a beautiful golden brown, placed atop a soft, buttery bed of leeks, and sauced with a shimmering reduction of syrah. Although it sells more than any other dish -- Daniel served somewhere between twenty and twenty-five thousand paupiettes last year -- it's simpler than most of the other preparations, and doesn't feature the kind of spectacular vegetable farnishes that distinguish most of Daniel's fish dishes. Boulud sees beauty in its simplicity; he's still as excited to cook it as he was the day he created it in 1987." I have not yet sampled this paupiette dish. Is the potato wrapping on both "sides" of the fish (i.e., upper and lower), and is that different from the ecailles on the Bocuse rouget dish?
  15. marcus -- Could you describe the loup a bit more? It is sometimes described as having Choron sauce in certain Bocuse recipes, if I vaguely recall (?). Is the pastry shell delicious? Is the fish cut up table-side? Why is this brilliant, in your view? I'm glad you mentioned having the loup before the poulet en vessie, because that is my plan over the course of a single meal (with no cheese/dessert). I see quantity concerns, for both dishes are intended for two people and I would be ordering both dishes as such, but only have a single diner. On our tastes being non-aligned, are you basing your assessment on a number of restaurant write-ups we have each provided? On the black truffle soup... My only meal at Bocuse to date was very poor. It was among the worse three-star meals I have ever had. That might beg the question as to why I am planning a return, but I don't see a desire to return as being contradictory inherently with having had poor experiences at the venue.
  16. Hmm -- good point. However, doesn't the exterior of agedeshi tofu suggest something other than just frying, although there is not the typical deep frying effects associated with tempura, say?
  17. Deep fried tofu with scallions -- Agedashi or agedeshi tofu? That does not have a peanut sauce, typically.
  18. I may have to choose between Bocuse's loup en croute dish (bass in a pastry shell) and his red mullet with potato scales. Could members who have sampled either dish provide input?
  19. Chawanmushi, although I order this dish only when I believe there is a decent chance it will be appropriately prepared.
  20. Steve P -- Thanks for the input Why is the price fair, and are you assuming the usual pour for a wine tasting?
  21. I'd appreciate input on the following Master of Food and Wine event wine tasting (e.g., value): "Château Margaux Tasting -- $350 3:00 pm to 4:30 pm 350.00 This event could be billed as a highlight of any wine connoisseur’s life [i think not]. The presentation will feature ten vintages and will be led by Paul Pontallier, General Manager and winemaker for Château Margaux. Paul, who was born in Bordeaux and heralds from a family of longtime wine producers, studied agronomy in Paris and viticulture in Montpellier. He then returned to Bordeaux in 1978 to prepare for a Ph.D. in Enology at the renowned Institute of Enology. He earned his doctorate in 1981 after a thesis on the barrelaging of red wines. He was soon on the move again and went to the University of Santiago in Chile. Here he worked as a Professor of Enology. In 1983 he returned to France and began work as the winemaker for Château Margaux and later became the General Manager. Paul will be joined by Joseph Spellman, Master Sommelier for Paterno Wines International, Fred Dame, Master Sommelier and President for the Court of Master Sommeliers, and Bernabe De Luna, Wine Director of the Highlands Inn; they will guide you though the complex flavors of Château Margaux. This tasting is a rare event and availability will be limited. Vintages to be tasted will include the following wines: 1982, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1993, 1994, 1995, and 1996. Also being tasted will be two vintages of limited production Pavillon Blanc 1989 and 2001. Those who have a yearning to sample the Château Margaux 1983 should take note that it will be poured at the Grand Finalé dinner on Saturday night only." http://www.mfandw.com/schedule.php http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=27&t=15190
  22. cabrales

    L'Astrance

    It is a month in advance (i.e., the prior month, with the 'number' from 1-31, as applicable, the same as the targeted reservations date). It is 9:30 *am* Paris time; currently France is 6 hours ahead of EST. So one must wake up at 3:27 am and start calling. jordyn -- You might wish to consider trying to call a month before the earliest applicable date, so that, if you fail, you can try again on ensuing mornings.
  23. I called the hotel where the Robuchon venue will be situated, and was told early March was the currently hoped-for date. When I asked whether hotel guests would have an ability to make reservations, the hotel indicated the arrangements were not clear at this point. Note that a 300 euro rate was available upon request of whether a discounted room rate was available. The lowest listed rate is higher than 300 euros.
  24. Below are certain descriptions from the Michelin guide: On Gordon Ramsay: "Elegant and sophisticated room. The eponymous chef creates *some of* Britain's finest, classically inspired cooking. Detailed and attentive service. Book one month in advance." The write-up could be more laudatory. For example, the annotation for Pierre Gagnaire (whose cuisine I dislike) is as follows: "The inventiveness is not in the sobrely contemporary decor, but in one's plate. A magic of savours, surprises for the taste buds, inspired genius...there's poetry coming from the kitchen!" On Waterside Inn: "The Thames-side idyll still *delights*: opulent dining room, drinks in the summer houses, *exquisite French cuisine* and matchless service. Bedrooms are restful and classically chic." On The Square: "Marble flooring and bold abstract canvasses add an air of modernity. Extensive menus *showcase* French influenced cooking of the *highest order*. Prompt and efficient service." This is a nice write-up. On Fat Duck: "History and science combine in recipes of yesteryear and a painstaking, innovative alchemy of contrasting flavours. Modern art, stylish, relaxing milieu, confident service." On LTC, which still has two stars on the Michelin website (?; Pied a Terre is still unupdated at one star): "Refined Gascon French cooking in elegant and sumptuous surroundings. Celebrated for it's Pig's trotter dish. Impressive wine list features regional French specialities." On Le Gavroche: "Long standing basement restaurant with a clubby, formal atmosphere. Accomplished classical French cuisine, served by smartly attired and well-drilled staff." On The Capital: "Elegant and intimate restaurant ideal for both social and business entertaining. Assured and detailed service. *Refined* French inspired cooking with a subtle modern twist." On Putney Bridge: "Winner of architectural awards, this striking glass and steel structure enjoys a charming riverside location. Exacting service; accomplished and detailed modern cooking." (The detailed part is accurate with respect to Putney Bridge; the accomplished part as well, although I have not eaten there recently) On Petrus: "Accomplished cooking and service in discreet, elegant surroundings. Wine list features an extensive collection of one of the world's most renowned clarets." On Chez Bruce: "Essential to book at this ever-popular restaurant, overlooking the Common. Simple yet considered modern British cooking. Convivial and informal, with enthusiastic service."
  25. Nina and I visited Sushi Seki, which is at the location formerly occupied by Sushi Hatsu (62d and First). Even though there was not a sashimi-only omakase, we ordered the $60 sushi-and-sashimi omakase and stated we only wanted one roll shared between us as the sushi component. Members should be alert to differences between the more "new-ish style" sushi (not in the Nobu "add the hot oil" sense) and certain traditional-type sushi (less saucing, etc.) that are also offered. (1) Sashimi Plate #1 -- A large platter with (a) 3 amaebi (this was the least attractive of the sashimi items during the evening), (b) 2 raw octupus suction cups (interestingly cut, with the bulbous upper portion of the suction cup exposed), © 2 raw octupus flesh slices (nice, very crispy texture; raw octupus cannot keep for a particularly long time; hence many sushi bars have cooked octupus on hand) -- this was served with a nice umeboshi Japanese plum sauce that was an orange color, (d) 2 Kumomoto oysters in their shells with soy, vinegar and chives (nice as well), (e) 3 pieces of tuna (average), (f) 2 pieces of yellowtail belly with jalapeno and a white-colored sauce (this was very good -- the best part of the meal; fattiness and smoothness prevailed; the dining room team member indicated it was called "hamachi toro", with "toro" referring to the best part of a fish?), and (g) 2 pieces of seared salmon with a peppered skin portion. (2) Sashimi Plate #2 -- This included (a) 3 amaebi, (b) a piece of uni (average, although it was not the boxed variety), and © larger oyster with red chilli sauce (not bad). (3) Raw quail egg yolk with squid strands. After the hamachi belly, my preferred dish of the meal. Upon being pierced, the yolk lent its golden emoliance to the medium-thick, curled long strands of squid. The base saucing was soy, sake and scallions. There was a gelatinous feel to the saucing, even before the egg yolk effects. (4) A cut-up roll with salmon roe, squid, shiso leaf and cucumber slices. This was appropriate. A lot of moisture could be discerned, including in the rice utilized. (5) Nasu Shigiyaki (baked eggplant with miso paste; $5 ordered separately) -- This was nice, for small cross-sections of Japanese eggplant were presented on the plate (looking almost like cut-up sushi roll sections). Each eggplant section had an appropriate amount of white miso on top of it (white sesame also), and stood on a plate that had a significant amount of red miso sauce with chilli effects on it. I am beginning to appreciate the nice inherent qualities of Japanese eggplant, which has a suppleness and controlled sweetness relative to most other eggplant specimens I have sampled. The area of improvement in this dish is the unduly salted nature of the potato julienne fritters. That saltiness did not match the overall sweet theme of the dish. (6) Octupus Tempura with jalapeno and warm "normal"-type tempura sauce. (7) Green Tea Ice Cream (not included in omakase) -- This was poor, as the inside had crystallized into ice a bit and the flavor left something to be desired. We shared a bottle of Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Gold-Quadrant 1998 ($30). Total bill after tips was $110/person. If members visit, they should ask the dining room team members to alert them when the price threshold stated on the written menu is crossed. There were three sushi chefs working, of which two appeared to be very young. If the older chef was Chef Seki, he was not particularly old either. The service by the dining room team members was very good for a Japanese restaurant (stronger than at Sushi Hatsu). A female team member's English communications skills were excellent, with a strong ability to explain ingredients, etc. Overall, a bordering-on-good meal. The rating reflects my having liked the meal overall, but having found some items to be not as good as others. Also, Seki is not at the Sushi Yasuda level or the level previously achieved (and possibly lost, although it is premature to say) at Jewel Bako -- due to the better balance in taste of compositions at the two other restaurants I enjoyed discussions with Nina a great deal. We each remembered that our first meal together had been at the same site, when it had been occupied by Sushi Hatsu. Miscellaneous Information Nina had alerted me to Asimov's review, which had accorded Sushi Seki two stars in November 2002. "Its owner, who goes only by the name Seki, spent five years at Sushi of Gari ... Sushi Seki will produce traditional sushi if you wish, but its specialty is a modern style reminiscent of Sushi of Gari's, in which each piece is topped with a little sauce. ..." The decor appears largely unchanged from that of Sushi Hatsu, although there is a little panel effect with flowers that has been added behind the sushi bar. The wine list is now better presented, including with respect to sake descriptions.
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