cabrales

badger0412 -- Welcome On Nobu, the NY location might be slightly stronger, with respect to execution of dishes, than the London ones (??), but they are not that different. The menus are broadly comparable. Please don't feel shy about sharing your lunch list. There are many wonderful opportunities for gastronomic lunches at reasonable prices. The db burger is a good choice for lunch, although ordering it too "cooked" (i.e., above medium) would, in my mind, affect the experience (I order mine rare). I don't know if you're interested in the truffled version. If you're arriving towards the end of March, that would be pushing the parameters of the fresh black truffle season. I forgot to mention Union Pacific as a possibility for dinner.

I'd agree with jordyn's assessment regarding seriously considering whether Balthazar and Da Silvano are good choices, particularly when budget is not a consideration. I would also call into question Nobu, which you could sample in London (both at Nobu and at Ubon). However, I can see how Nobu has a value in your line-up with respect to variety in restaruant type. I second jordyn's recommendation regarding Blue Hill. :laugh: If you are interested in cuisine variety, try Babbo (reservations may be difficult to secure) for Italian. May I ask what lunches are being devoted to? Why not go to Bouley or Chanterelle for lunch (prix fixes are reasonable) in addition to the planned dinners?

vmilor -- Yes, I meant they only smell.

Steve -- Thanks chefg -- 14a. If you are comfortable discussing it, approximately what proportion of Trio diners are guests in the hotel in which the restaurant is located? Do hotel guests get VIP'd in some manner?

chefg -- Only when you have time... 14 (?). Location of Trio Could you discuss whether you see the location of Trio outside of central Chicago as being more helpful or as being overall less desirable? For example, do you see the distance as allowing the restaurant to attract a large proportion of diners who are interested in Chef Achatz's cuisine and travel for it? (Please only respond if you are comfortable doing so; note also that I am not familiar with the geography of Chicago and its surroundings) 15. Relais Gourmand Aspirations Are you aware of whether Chef Achatz is interested in pursuing RG designation? (Please only respond if you are comfortable doing so) RyneSchraw & Steve P -- What accommodations are located close to Trio?

RyneSchraw -- Could you discuss the nature of the dish descriptions provided by the dining room team, when you order, and, separately, when a dish is presented? How do the descriptions become provided if the dish is temperature-sensitive or otherwise deteriorates with the passage of time? Do dish descriptions omit new techniques, as one might expect? To what extent do you see the dish descriptions as aiding diner comprehension of the dishes? Do you believe that Trio diners generally understand at least some notion of what was intended to be conveyed?

RyneSchraw -- That does look good. I have never been to El Bulli. I vaguely remember robert brown reporting about some "golden egg" dish at El Bulli, another potentially interesting item to receive.

The Michelin inspectors must be stronger. I read somewhere that they have to have some relevant educational background, and they must eat more extensively than members do.

French Laundry sommeliers only smell a bottle of wine, after opening it and prior to serving it to guests. This appears to be the practice for both red and white bottles. What are members' views on the efficacy of the practice? Are members aware of other restaurants that have implemented it?

The Le Figaro article is Feb 7, Paris time. Much of our collective commentary preceded it. I was so happy to hear Jardin des Sens was perceived as being threatened by Figaro. Loiseau was also mentioned in that regard.

Steve -- The regional orientation you view most Parisian top restaurants as having may not be the dominant cuisine characteristics of those restaurants. Take as an example of some (not all) of the three-star chefs from Brittany in Paris. While C LeSquer at Ledoyen is known for certain of his seafood dishes, there is little in B Pacaud's cuisine at L'Ambroisie that highlights a Breton origin, in my mind. chefg -- 10a. Could you discuss dehydration as a technique (e.g., equipment needed, specific steps, products amenable to the technique)? Are products that are dehydrated sometimes rehydrated when cooked? 10b. Are there chefs with whom you discuss the newer techniques, other than other Trio chefs?

L'Espalier is a more traditional-type French cuisine restaurant. More formal than the alternatives discussed below, which are generally at a similar price level. I would choose Clio or Radius over L'Esaplier. Although I believe each of the three restaurants has areas of weakness, they are among the best restaurants in Boston. Other possibilities include Oleana, which has Mediterranean influences and which I have never visited.

macrosan -- Bonjour Paris is an online magazine with a section entitled "Gourmet Buzz", covering pretty well certain Paris restaurant developments. I would say the food coverage is ordinarily decent.

chefg -- Thanks for your continuing responses. 9a. Cost Aspects of Sourcing While Trio's collaboration with local producers is commendable, there could be cost considerations to such sourcing and to the searching out of more unusual ingredients utilized by Chef Achatz. Could you discuss how mindful the chef is of the cost of ingredients, including at the stage of conceptualization of a dish? For example, have there been recipes that are appealing, but that are too expensive to execute on a regular basis? 9b. Cheese Apologies for not having information on Trio's cheese plate, due to not yet having dined there. However, to what extent is cheese served at the restaurant sourced locally? A similar question, with respect to US cheese? 9c. My Favorite Ingredient -- Eggs When you have a chance, could you discuss your views on the fatty/texture aspects of egg yolks and how that can be utilized in non-dessert dishes? You mentioned that you utilize locally-produced eggs -- could you describe their particular characteristics? Do you recall appealing non-dessert, non-breakfast egg dishes you have sampled at other restaurants?

Bonjour Paris reports on Sketch: http://www.bparis.com/newsletter1464/newsl...m?doc_id=147661

Square Meal UK describes an unusual offer from M&C (direct from champagne producer): http://www.squaremeal.co.uk/news/display.p...p?CategoryID=22 Do members have views on how non-D Perignon M&C ages, and on the relative attractiveness of the offered vintages relative to their prices? Interestingly, the producer categorizes M&C vintages into four groups (to be clear, not all the vintages below are included in the offer): "The Gatsbys 1970, 1982, 1983, 1986, 1995 As Gatsby the seducer stated himself, ‘can’t repeat the past? Why of course you can!’… ‘Seductive, full-bodied and fleshy. These wines correspond to the modern era of Champagne and are produced from large harvests under exceptional conditions.’ The Hemingways 1952, 1962, 1966, 1969, 1971, 1978, 1980, 1981, 1985, 1988, 1996 Although Hemingway suffered from a tempestuous life, he rose above personal problems to become one of the great writers… ‘Demonstrating a true balance between high concentration (ripe harvest) and high acidic balance (young harvest). They are vintages produced in uncertain years where the winemaker has had to overcome obstacles.’ The Rivieras 1945, 1947, 1959, 1976, 1989, 1990 Sun-kissed wines from warmer years… ‘Vintage harvests marked by the stamp of exceptionally warm weather to the point of excess and imbalance.’ The Orwells 1943, 1955, 1961, 1964, 1973, 1975, 1992, 1993 Orwell only ever published six novels. Whilst scarce in quantity, they are considered amongst the true classics of the literary world… ‘Somewhat rare vintages with exceptional completeness of the three Champagne grape varieties: chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir. Distinguished by their balance, harmony and quality of blend.’"

jordyn -- Here are methods I have successfully utilized at the places in question, focusing now on only the three stars. -- Saturday: At Guy Savoy, call them again and say you are open to really late reservations (mention 10:30 or 10:45). See if that helps. Also, they do pull people off the wait list, so be sure to put yourself on it. Your alternative to Guy Savoy for dinner is Lucas-Carton. If they indicate they're full, state you would love to have the small table to the immediate right of the entryway (the one that is normally utilized when the restaurant is full for solo diners). They will tell you that table is cramped, and you will say you are comfortable occupying it even as a two-top. If you get the table, fine. It's not a good table, but you will not be affirmatively uncomfortable. If you arrive and they give you another table, as they have every time I have arrived using this strategy, that's perfect. -- Sunday: Try Le Cinq, the new three star. I believe they are open definitely for dinner on Sundays and possibly for lunch as well. For lunch, there is a reasonable (under 75 euro prix fixe lunch). I appreciate you might want to sample Gagnaire's cuisine. Keep on calling them, with Le Cinq as backup. Call them starting from about four or three days before. I don't know how many of the reservationists speak English, as I speak to them in French.

The oysters and pearl dish has egg in the sabayon, but could a member with the book verify that there is no butter? If that's the case, the dish has a very deceptively buttery taste.

Yes, I was speaking of prior demotions of Lorain and Meneau. I don't believe their demotions occurred in 2002. Their demotions also occurred in different years from each other, I vaguely call. On Lion d'Or or Domaine des Hauts de Loire, do you mean that they were three-stars when you visited? I don't know if I would swap two and three stars, but, if I were the head of Michelin, I would demote, *among others*, Bocuse, Pourcels and possibly Georges Blanc and Taillevent under del Burgo.

Stone -- Apologies for having missed this part of the question before. In meal #2, I believe I received the VIP treatment accorded to a solo diner. It consisted of two "extra" dishes: -- Carrot and orange soup, with blood orange morcels, served before the oyster/caviar dish (i.e., the soup was the first dish); and -- Almond Panna Cotta with roasted pine nuts, served immediately after the oyster/caviar dish.

The demotion of Jung would seem to be consistent with vmilor's theory, although four (Guy Savoy, Ledoyen, Le Cinq and Louis XV) of the five last three-stars (the final being L'Arnsbourg) could not be said to offer predominantly "chic" cuisine (they do not offer "traditional" cuisine either). Note that Meneau and Loraine's cuisines (other demotees) were not particularly "traditional", particularly Meneau.

Ditto. I have tried several of her foie gras dishes, including the one that has both cold duck and cold goose foie. Another dish that was average at best was the utilization of foie gras in a rabbit soup during game season, in a sort of ice cream quenelle. Another interesting change was Les Loges, which received one star. This is a confirmation of sorts that Nicolas Le Bec, who was somewhat controversially denoted by Gault-Millau as chef of the year in 2002, does have some sort of cuisine. Note I have not eaten at Les Loges.

One can order the gentiane with orange juice too. It was on the aperatif menu when I went in 2002.

Patrice -- It's too bad the Galupe chef has left. Has he retired; I don't recall him being of that age? I am interested in that restaurant in part because Steingarten has written about the termination of a whole pig at Galupe and the preparation of boudin noir.

The non-promoted restaurants with respect to three stars is another interesting aspect. Roellinger doesn't get his third star (which is not inappropriate an outcome, in my mind, although I am not making any relative assessments about current three-stars that might also be undeserving). Neither does Chibois. Lorain, unfortunately, does not regain his third star. Things are also looking much dimmer for Dutournier, if he were still in the running to begin with. 2003 has added significance for the non-promoted because 2002 was the first Derek Brown-supervised edition. With a second DB-supervised edition, one would have thought that any preferences of DB might have manifested themselves in a promotion of Roellinger or Chibois.