cabrales

southern girl -- Thanks for the report When you have a chance, could you discuss any factors you took into consideration in choosing the cheese course as one of your courses, when the alternative was another app or seafood/fish dish? Also, could you provide a bit more information on the beef, as I was on the verge of ordering that dish.

Bux -- I cannot subscribe to that argument, including for the following reasons: -- There are only four three-starred places in Spain, and more than twenty in France. There are likewise obviously far fewer two-stars in Spain than in France. Therefore, focusing on whether it is easier to tell *what part* of France one is in, when there are many more restaurants at any given level (three-star or two-star) is arguably unfair. -- While I have never eaten at El Bulli or Can Fabes (the latter reputedly does try to incorporate elements of Catalan cuisine), I ask whether Berasategui is *strongly* influenced by traditional Basque cuisine. If he is, please advise how you view Berasategui's cuisine as doing so. -- Regardless of whether high-quality French ingredients are less abundant than they used to be or not, when we are addressing French three stars and two-stars, they will have access to even the more limited quantity of top French ingredients. Therefore, arguing about diminished access to ingredients is not informative about the ingredients typically available to three stars and most two stars. -- I strongly disagree that when one visits a French three-star, one can't tell one is in France. One can tell one is not in any part of the world other than Western Europe (which has other countries that, as we have discussed previously, have embraced the French cuisine model for haute cuisine). One can tell one is clearly not in the US or Asia. The only reason one might not be able to tell apart the cuisines of, say, Bruneau near Brussels and a French three-star is that Bruneau has adopted many French techiques and prepares a French-based cuisine. -- It is true that French three stars vary in quality. However, that is a function of there being (appropriately) more French three stars than three stars in other countries. Given the distinctive features of each restaurant, particularly at this level, it is natural that a larger number of restaurants at a given level would have a more diverse profile overall.

"This article also suggests table size is set. Therefore, I imagine one back-up plan is to ask for tables of another size, and cut/increase party size accordingly (e.g., 2 to 4, 4 to 2)." Andy -- That would be what the conventional understanding of "to ... cut/increase party size accordingly" might mean. Instead of "pretend to cut" or "indicate the party size is cut".

Basildog -- Congrats! The "finest" ingredients and "bold characterful flavours" parts must be particularly gratifying to you.

It was a difficult process, and FL is really that sought after.

Steve -- There is an argument that those who ate/drink are best positioned to address the appropriateness of the pairings.

While I have been fortunate of late with respect to French Laundry reservations, I have been researching articles on obtaining such reservations. Below are certian relevant materials, the points of which have in part been addressed elsewhere on the board. 1. 2000 San Francisco Chronicle article http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...&type=printable -- "At the French Laundry, for example, there are essentially three tiers of waiting lists: a rolling waiting list for locals who might be able to come eat at a moment's notice, the regular waiting list for ordinary Joes, and a sort of special waiting list made up of people the owners want to get in but for whom they simply don't have a table. These are other chefs, movie or music stars -- or their relatives -- or relatives of the restaurant's investors. They'll get the first free tables." -- "At the French Laundry, reservationist Betsey Gooch knows that most VIPs will call the manager's line or talk to chef/owner Thomas Keller himself." -- "Here's another French Laundry tip: Show up." -- This article also suggests table size is set. Therefore, I imagine one back-up plan is to ask for tables of another size, and cut/increase party size accordingly (e.g., 2 to 4, 4 to 2). -- As an aside, the article notes: "Allowing people to make reservations six or 10 months into the future would be too difficult for the staff to manage, Keller says. People constantly call to cancel or change reservations. Two month's worth of names and times makes those changes easier to manage. And the system keeps down the number of daily calls to the restaurant." 2. 2002 Business Week Article http://www.businessweek.com/bwdaily/dnflas...002035_5880.htm -- "Every table is booked within 15 or 20 minutes, and the waiting list in case someone cancels is long." -- "General manager Cunningham says the restaurant is less busy from January through March." -- "If all else fails and you have money to burn, the closest thing to a sure-fire way of getting a table is to spend a night or two in a top hotel in the vicinity." 3. jordyn's highlighting of opentable.com -- This is a relatively good strategy -- "* Two tables are available online via OpenTable.com for dinner service, one at @ 6:00 pm (party of 2) and one at 9:30 pm (party of 4) every night. * Two tables are also available online for lunch service, one at @ 11:00 am (party of 4) and one at 11:15 am (party of 2) on Friday, Saturday and Sunday only. The French Laundry does not offer lunch Monday - Thursday. * If an online booker cancels one of these tables, then it will immediately become available again on OpenTable.com."

Not if there are the talents of M Troisgros being put to bear on the question.

The pigeon and foie gras dish was predominantly pigeon. And Troisgros did try (and succeeded, in my mind, despite the unusual-looking nature of the menu) to present dishes that matched each provided wine.

Late last year, a group of prominent French chefs had been vocal against genetically modified products. The applicable chefs included A Senderens (Lucas-Carton), P Gagnaire, G Martin (Grand Vefour), G Savoy and B Pacaud (L'Amboisie). Andre Daugin (the father of the woman who runs D'Artagnan) is also active. http://www.guardian.co.uk/Print/0,3858,4523249,00.html

Steve -- The impact (if any) on a restaurant's economics of losing (assuming that is the case) the business of BYO drinkers depends, among other things, on whether the restaurant has other clients who wuld spend at least as much as the BYO drinkers. If a restaurant like French Laundry were to prohibit BYO instead of charging $50 corkage, I doubt that their seats would not be filled and I doubt that the client composition in general would experience a marked change. On your point about BYO only being a matter of money, there are many explanations as to why that *is* reconciliable with a prohibition against BYO, including potentially: (1) the restaurant would want to charge a corkage like $50 or $100 per bottle, but believes that may result in bad press, and (2) the restaurant believes it has a sufficiently strong wine list, from which diners can choose, such that most diners need not BYO and the "outlier" diners in this regard are not worth courting.

marcus -- The pairings seem unusual don't they? Lobster ravioli with the 1971? That's what I thought before I took in the meal (not that I know that much about wine).

I'd be interested in members' input on (1) Charles Nob Hill and (2) Portay's Dining Room at Ritz Carlton, Nob Hill.

chefg -- Please don't feel like you have to respond to all of my questions or those of others, if you would prefer not doing so.

southern girl -- You were in the restaurant business?

southern girl -- Thanks for your report. When I read your posts, you seem to be very happy with many of your dining experiences. Would my perception be in line with your own?

lxt -- Thanks for sharing your experiences. So many things to look forward to -- and wait until you get to France. A fortunate and proactive diner could find resonance in a subjectively matched restaurant that moves her and sustains her spirit in small ways until her next visit; that gently, but markedly, shades her sensation of scents, light, colors and shapes; that has a cuisine that plies itself around her likes and dislikes, seeping itself into shaping those preferences; that makes her believe she is tasting so many products for the first time when she had taken them in innumerable times elsewhere; that begins to weave a history with her, laced with meals that murmur to her when she is exuberant, other meals that console when she is vulnerable, and yet others during disparate other times; that always has a place for her and goes out of its way for her; that, no matter how many other restaurants she visits, would always offer a cuisine that most pleases her ... That is the kind of restaurant that she could find

Other potential factors might be the composition of the restaurant's clientele, and the matching of the patissier's creations with those of the chef for savory dishes.

Below is a link to a picture of the "peas and carrots" dish: http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/relais/...usa/laundry.htm

Below is additional select commentary from third parties on the Michelin determinations: -- There is a trend towards strong financial backers for three-stars and other restaurants. Often, the owners are non-French: Brunei (Plaza, Meurice), Saudi (Cinq); or large corporations, like Lenotre (Pre Catelan), Vivendi (Ledoyen), or Taittinger (Les Ambassadeurs and Grand Véfour). http://fr.news.yahoo.com/030207/202/31fkp.html -- Louis XV was demoted from three to two-stars in 2001. It was generally viewed as a reminder to chefs that their "elitist and expensive" cuisine obligated them to stay "artisans in the noble sense" who remain in the kitchen. Ducasse reemergers from a time in "purgatory".

awbrig -- I'm not saying I would request more courses than in the Tour de Force when I visit -- although that *possibility* was the motivating force behind Question 16. I was curious whether diners have requested more, or whether regular customers may receive extra courses as part of the Tour de Force. I am a very greedy diner, you know.

Tony -- The Square would make Pounds 25 profit on most of the bottles on its list. Also, very few clients of The Square would likely be willing to drink tap water throughout the meal.

16. Lengthier Menus Out of curiosity, have you prepared lengthier menus than the Tour de Force? If so, in what context were they assembled?

Fine cuisine and fine wine can be mutually complementary, and result in a "greater than the sum of its parts" effect. Note that (1) my wine knowledge is very weak, (2) I prefer French white wine and old Champagnes (and am more familiar with the effects of these on cuisine) and (3) I value cuisine much more than I value wine currently. An interesting example of complementarity: The Troisgros March 2002 Latour Tasting/Dinner (very rough translations from the French menu), led by F Engerer: PHASE I. TASTING 3 different Forts de Latour (recent vintages; second wine) Latour 99, 97, 96, 95, 94, 88, 90, 82. PHASE II. COCKTAILS (Outside Troisgros cellars) Various Hors-d'oeuvres, with Bollinger Grand Annee 1990 PHASE III. DINNER Oysters with raifort, Latour '80 Tartar of bass with caviar, little pieces of celeryroot; tartar of tuna method Siam, all with sesame sauce, Latour 67 Ravioli of lobster with porcini, mint and mango, beef bouillon, Latour 71 magnum Pigeon and foie gras slightly breaded and with sauce of truffle, Latour 61 Duckling of Challans in thick slices with pear and prune, Latour 55 Sampling of three cheeses (Salers, Gruyere of Savoie, aged Gouda), Latour 85 Chocolate and cherry dessert; another dessert Dish selections by M Troisgros were not necessarily conventional, for pairing with Latourm, but they worked.

Coop -- I'll go shortly, and will report. You might wish to wait, in case there has been further deterioration.