cabrales

Patrice -- Good news re: Chamaree. Although the cuisine is not as strong by any means as that at L'Astrance, the according of a star so soon after the opening of Chamaree (like L'Astrance -- the first possible year) confirms the superior training received by both young chefs. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...242&hl=chamarel On the demotions from 2 stars to nothing, there must be precedent for that in the absence of a chef change. Why could Galupe have experienced this misfortune? Did the Robuchon disciple at Astor (LeCerf) quit to join the new Robuchon venture? Wasn't Trou Gascon (Dutournier affiliate still?) in possession of one star at some prior point in time, prior to a demotion? The Ghislaine Arabian demotion is natural, as the restaurant has changed chefs and names and cuisine style. What's the most significant, apart from the new three-stars, is the demotion of Dominique Bouchet at Les Ambassadeurs and perhaps the demotion of Guerard Besson. I have never eaten at GB, although I have read about GB in Richard Olenay's "Reflexions".

Patrice -- Any three-star demotions? Your posts suggests not.

I have never been to the Jules Vernes, the purportedly more "food oriented" restaurant in the Eiffel Tower, but there are several dining venues in the tower. Members providing input might wish to clarify which venue is being discussed.

If it were up to me, I would consider the following from your list, with restaurants with better cuisine listed first. If Bristal = Bristol, Frechon clearly has the best cuisine of the restaurants you named. La Regalade -- there are many threads on this board L'Angle de Faubourg -- I have a thread on this board describing this restaurant Flora -- This is not as good as L'Angle or La Regalade. I have not visited the other restaurants you listed. As I have mentioned repeatedly, there are good values for lunch at three-star levels (Lucas-Carton, Pierre Gagnaire and Grand Vefour). Consider L'Astrance, if you are booking at least a month ahead and can comply with stringent reservations procedures (see applicable old threads on this board).

On aperatifs, I think there is also at least one that includes gentiane (with orange juice). There are likely two. Both are quite interesting.

I have not had Krug Clos de Mesnil as frequently as I have had Salon. However, I would not disagree, based on my limited samplings of Krug Clos de Mesnil, with marcus' assessments as to the objective qualities of the two. Subjectively, I adore Salon.

On the bathrooms mentioned by Bux, they were indeed separated from the main bedroom area by a partition that does not extend to the ceiling in the two rooms I have stayed in. I did not like the aesthetics inside the bathrooms. Large, metallic jarring lamps in ostensibly modern shapes, around the sink areas. Matthew -- Please consider reviewing the discussion Bux and I had a while ago about making sure you get access to the sofa area for aperatifs (or barring that, digestifs).

herblau -- I just performed a search on this: http://www.meiweizhen.com.cn/meiweizhen/En...iaopiang-EN.htm

I am highlighting this thread, because the Sketch lunch does seem somewhat interesting, no?

John -- How do you serve a paper-bag pasta dish? Do you allow the diner to open the bag and inhale the aromas, or do you adopt a more conventional presentation?

Buddha Jumping Over a Wall is a famous Chinese dish ("fut teew cheung", informally translated from Cantonese). It is a dish with multiple ingredients, including abalone, sea cucumber, shark's fin and fish blubber. The ingredients differ from time to time. It is braised, typically. Included often might be certain mushrooms and, from time to time, chicken.

Does VIP treatment mean that they bring you little surprises between the courses so that the diner is not sitting there with nothing to do? Anything else? Stone -- Apologies for not having seen that sooner. Not necessarily is the short answer to your question. The longer answer is that special treatment for solo diners is a recognized practice at FL. -- On Michael Ruhlman's "Soul of a Chef: The Journey Towards Perfection", about 1/3 of the book is on FL. There is recognition of the fact that, at FL, solo diners are immediately VIP'd to some extent. http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearc...141001895&itm=1 I read that book some time ago, but made a special note to myself to explore the parameters of the VIP treatment for solo diners at FL. -- In my dialogue with chefg in the attached thread, this was also confirmed.

southern girl -- I waited for last-minute-cancelled reservations and no-shows. As of about five days before the Saturday in question, I had no reservations at all.

lizziee -- I did stop off at Domaine Chandon for a light appetizer dish and champagne (Etoile NV) before Sunday lunch at FL. There were only six oysters served to me, although some were in batter or otherwise enlarged in general volume. I definitely had capacity during lunch. Towards the end of dinner, I started not being able to finish dishes, but that was not necessarily as a result of the DC excursion. Before Saturday's lunch with Stone, I attended an Opus One tour. Interesting discussions included: (1) vines are planted more closely together than the typical CA style because vines that have to struggle have lower amounts of higher quality grapes and the close planting is a superficially-induced challenge for the wines, (2) the winery uses gravity flow, (3) the huge steel containers holding the fermenting grapes were custom-made for Opus One, (4) it took a long time for Mondavi and Rothschild to decide on the name; originally Mondavi had rejected "Opus" (having musical connotations), and (5) while Opus One is primarily Cab Sauvignon, there are potentially 3 other grapes utilized for blending. I liked the "Oysters and Pearls" better than the Panna Cotta. The panna cotta had a layer of Malpeque oyster gelee-like substance (perhaps the glaze) and was very good too. I liked the consistency of the saucing of the Oyster and Pearl dish, and its buttery connotations. I don't question the automatic VIP treatment of solo diners. I merely note that I got not much more than I did when dining with Stone. I received an extra soup (the carrot/orange) and an extra almond custard. I had expected, for some reason, more. Meal #3 brought forth considerably more special treatment.

Brad S -- As you know, in Salon's case, there is delayed release. Thus, the '90 Salon has only become available within the last, say, year or so. Before the '90, the '88 was the most recent vintage, I believe. Salon only makes champagne in years that have sufficiently favorable conditions. Salon is appropriate for many meals (depending on the dishes included). It can be paired with many dishes during a meal.

I've had the '85 probably five times during the past year. I subjectively prefer the '88, but the '85 is drinking fine. I had not tasted it many years ago, so can't quite make the '85 now vs. '85 previously, comparison.

Meal 2 was Sunday lunch. I waited at the FL bar for two hours Saturday night, after the lunch with Stone and a nap. However, there were no cancellations. Meal 3 was Sunday dinner. -- Dish offerings (quantity, general quality) appear to be comparable during lunch and dinner. -- Pricing is the same. -- At dinner, the restaurant is considerably darker. The lights are presumably deliberately dimmed.

southern girl and lizziee -- Here's the menu on meal 2: Carrot and orange soup, with blood orange morcels [not official name; this was a gift relative to the tasting menu to reflect my solo diner-automatic VIP treatment, presumably] Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" with Malpeque Oyster Glaze and Osetra Caviar Almond Panna Cotta with roasted pine nuts [another gift] Beet salad -- full name n/a Cod -- full name n/a "Caesar Salad" -- Sweet Butter Poached Maine Lobster with Roasted Hearts of Romaine Lettcue, "Confit" of Sweet Garlic, Parmesan "Croutons" and "Bottarga Emulsion" Pan Seared Wolf Ranch Quail with "Farce a Gratin", Garden Marche and Quail Vinaigrette Herb Roasted Saddle of Elysian Fields Farm Lamb with Spice-Roasted Eggplant, Pickled Carrots and Sauce "Paloise" "Maytag Blue", as before Oregon Huckleberry Sorbet, as before "Degustation d'Abricots Seches", Royal Blenhim Apricot "Chiboust" with Apricot CAke and Apricot Granite Some other pot de creme Billecart Salmon, by glass 1/2 bottle Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Vergers", Ramonet 1999, like the meal with Stone (also in a buttercup Reidel glass) 1/2 bottle Chateauneuf du Pape, Beaucastel 2000

I received the following information from Bouley. The 5 courses for $95 is a reasonable price, for that restaurant. "Chef David Bouley invites you to experience a unique tasting menu created in celebration of one of his favorite winter pleasures, the French Black Truffle. This very special menu is provided below, as well as on our website, www.bouley.net. Begins Monday, February 10 through the end of the month... Chef's Welcome Canapé *** Salad of Organic Rabbit with Jerusalem Artichoke, Mâche, Baby Watercress and Black Truffle Vinaigrette *** Dairy-Free Ravioli of New Zealand Langoustine and Black Truffle Glazed Savoy Cabbage and Snap Peas Banyuls Wine Sauce *** Fingerling Potato Cloud with Black Truffle, N.Y. State Foie Gras and Organic Quince *** Farm Raised Guinea Hen Baked in Buttermilk and Black Truffle with White Asparagus, Truffle and Porcini Cooked "En Papillote" Almond-Truffle Natural Jus *** Warm Bosc Pears in a Réglise Glaze, Rosemary Flan with Black Truffles Greek Yogurt and Kaffir Lime Sauce, Rose and Almond Ice Cream $95"

Andy -- Zagat notes the following: "Auberge du Lac at Brocket Hall: Former Maison Novelli chef Jean-Christophe Novelli has been appointed chef patron." Note the reference to "chef patron", denoting some potential ownership or other "upside" interest. Does Novelli have that, to your knowledge?

Zagat reports: "Marc Veyrat: The three-star chef from the Savoy region is said to have a Paris project in the works for late this spring." I assume the reference to late spring is not an opening date; otherwise it would be highly ambitious.

Zagat reports: "Compagnie des Comptoirs (La): A third location (the others are in Montpellier and Avignon) to open in Paris later this spring, from the Pourcel Brothers (also of the Michelin three-star Jardin des Sens in Montpellier)."

Zagat reports the following: "Richard Neat: The English chef of the eponymous restaurant in Cannes (Neat) is scouting a location for a Paris restaurant."

El Raco de Can Fabes or a three-star in Paris (where Matthew indicated he is returning after Lagiole) would be the natural three-star "second" meal. Also, an exploration of the non-three-star venues in Barcelona would seem to be potentially worthwhile. That being said, Bux, I don't see anything inappropriate about targeting specific restaurants that Matthew might want to visit. Speaking only for myself, I might very well pick Bras among the southern France/quasi-southern France three-stars. Jardin des Sens and Guerard's Eugenie are much weaker than Bras, in my mind (particularly JdS). 6 hours is not a long time to travel for a three-star in which one is (or was) interested. I have done that using public transportation from Paris to Megeve, for example.

Zagat reports the following: "Sketch: In addition to the à la carte menu, there is now a casual prix fixe lunch menu (two courses for £42, three courses for £48)." It is unclear what the "casual" lunch refers to, and member should confirm that it is being offered at Sketch itself (likely, since other venues have different names). This represents an interesting opportunity potentially.