cabrales

I received the following information: "Special Bordeaux Wine Tasting Dinner at The Morrell Wine Bar & Café Tuesday, February 25th, 7:00 p.m. Join Bordeaux's most renowned winemaker [?] Francois Thienpont - proprietor of 5 Bordeaux Chateaux including the illustrious Pomerol estates of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin as well as Chateaux Les Charmes Godard, Lauriol, and Puygueraud in the Bordeaux District of Cotes de Francs. Per person cost: $185 including wine, dinner, service and tax. For reservations please call 212-262-7700."

I'd appreciate members' input on the following selected items from the Fifth Floor wine list, which I believe is not available online. Input on the Condrieu and Corton Charlemagne half-bottles would be particularly appreciated. Part A -- 1/2 bottles Veuve-Clicquot $38 (not a bad restaurant price) Corton Charlemagne, Bouchard 2000, $90 Condrieu Vielles Vignes "Les Chaillets" 1999 $65 Haut Brion (red) 1999 $150 Lafite Rothschild 1999 $160 Part B -- Full bottles Raveneau, Vaillons 1999 $135 Roulet, Les Tillets 2000 $100 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet 2000 $109 Ramonet, Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot 2000 $118 Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Boudriette 2000 $116 Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau de Martray 1985 -- $325; 1988 $350; 1990 $295 Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin, Au Velle 2000 $109

On Aikens, Square Meal reports: "Gordon Ramsay, Neat, Alastair Little: naming a restaurant after yourself implies a goodly amount of culinary self-confidence and for Tom Aikens, who opens his eponymous establishment next April, that confidence is well placed: Aikens was a leading culinary light during his time at Pied à Terre while his front of house will be suavely overseen by wife Laura (ex-Capital ). Elystan Street, SW3." http://www.squaremeal.co.uk/news/display.p...hp?CategoryID=6

Below is an article from the NY Post with a picture of the new db burger. I am uncertain whether the link has been previously provided. http://www.nypost.com/entertainment/nycuis...rants/53240.htm Note the version I sampled may not have had black truffle slices on top of the upper bun (beneath the db end of the wooden toothpick-like "holder"). I am uncertain about this.

What is the general age range of clients visiting two- and three-star restaurants, and do young children receive baby-sitting services? At what age do children begin attending themselves? What two- or three-star restaurants have special meal arrangements for children? Do older-age clients have health considerations which cause them to have to limit their restaurant going?

lizziee -- Very few US restaurants were mentioned, if I recall. My edition appears to be from some time during the period from 1995 to the time when Ducasse left 59 Poincare. I haven't reviewed this book much.

Today's edition of Newsday contains an article entitled "Hold the Pickles, Not the Lettuce; Where's the beef? It's in Big Apple burgers that go for big bucks". Excerpts follow: "At The Old Homestead ... there are days when the meat runs out, so intense is the demand for $41 Kobe-beef burgers... The upgraded [db] burger ... will be available only during the season for fresh black *Perigord* truffles [is it so clear it is not Southern French], approximately late December through late March. ... I ate the Old Homestead burger Friday while Matt Lauer, Al Roker and party dined at the next table. Waiter Nelson Cruz confided that 80 percent of the customers in the restaurant had ordered the burger that day, putting quite a strain on the kitchen. Overall, according to manager John Surgil, about 70 percent order it.... three sauces, including homemade chipotle ketchup (mild) and stoneground mustard with champagne, come on the side .... This [db burger] is a smart burger, because the fatty foie gras and short ribs keep the ground meat moist. ... Boulud, the highly regarded French chef, serves the burger with both attitude and humility. It is topped with tomato confit and **truffle dressing** and served on a house-baked Parmigiano poppy-seed bun, yet the ketchup offered on the side is the familiar American Heinz.... Old Homestead Burger Idaho russet potatoes, cut into shoestrings and fried Assorted exotic mushrooms sauteed in butter Kobe beef patty Microgreens Brioche-style bun... DB Burger Royale ( DB Bistro Moderne) Pommes souffles Black truffle **Parmigiano and poppy** seed bun Ground sirloin Filling of short ribs braised in wine with foie gras, **truffle** [suggests truffle component of original db burger was in the short ribs] and root vegetables ..."

mogsob -- Each chef presents his ideal menu of his own dishes (typically drawn from present or past menus). Each chef's page has an indicative menu. Also included is a full-page drawing of the restaurant, and some facts on the chef and his cuisine.

Mike -- I see. While the restaurant's perception of signature dishes might be different from ours, I would venture a guess that included would be (1) the poached duck, and (2) possibly, the crabmeat lasagne. My own favorite sampled dishes were the dishes in the Concord grape series and the following:

Mike -- Are you ordering from the menu, in which case you might wish to note that the menu changes quite a bit over time?

A few additional thoughts -- -- I asked what the pepper utilized in the pork belly was; it was Sarawak from Malaysia, which is strong. The general notion of combining black pepper with truffles is not a flawed one. However, in the pork dish, the pepper dominated. -- Truffle shavings and other uses of truffles were very generous. A huge bowl of large truffles from Southern France sat next to Gras on the kitchen counter. Large truffles. Many of them. -- James Beard can be a bit cliquish. I spoke with a very nice woman, but many of the people at my table took a while to warm up to me. I was told that one table consisted of "Grand Circle" J Beard members (the highest level?), who always attended the best events. A number of the couples at my table seemed to know one another. Fellow diners were well-dressed. I had changed after work into a two-piece dress ensemble, and was not underdressed.

High standards may breed a thirst that confers the pleasures "of the chase" for one's subjectively compelling meal experiences. As such, standards could add further purpose to one's dining endeavors. They could make decisions more deliberate and more internally deliberated. One could pursue restaurants that one believes have a chance meet one's standards, or one could *knowingly* pursue some other facets of another restaurant. Either way, high standards may permit the diner to more knowingly choose.

lizziee -- We have differfent editions. Below is the ideal menu of Loiseau in my version: Les Langoustines roties a la vinaigrette de truffe Le turbot au jus de roti de veau Le blanc de volaille fermiere et le foie gras chaud de canard L'Epoisse La boite au chocolat et la glace noisette au coulis de griottes Pulighny Montrachet du Domaine du Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet Petit Chablis de Jean Durup Volnay Lafarge The Bocuse ideal menu: Oreiller de la Belle Aurore, Sauce poivrade Quenelle de brochet, sauce Nantua Granite des Vignerons du Beaujolais Volaille de Bresse a la broche au feu de bois Selection de fromage frais et affines "Mere Richard" Ambassadeur "Maurice Bernachon" Pouilly Fuisse 1993, Georges Duboeuf Cote Rotie, "Cote Brune et Blonde" 1990, Etienne Guigal The illustrations are by Vavro or Vanro?

I haven't followed The Heartland forum closely enough to note whether this has already been reported: Belinda Chang from Trotter's is now a sommelier at Fifth Floor. She was at the J Beard L Gras black truffle dinner tonight. I asked why she had chosen Fifth Floor over Trotter's, and she made a flippant remark relating to CA wines. According to Belinda's business card, her title is now Wine Director of Fifth Floor, and her e-mail is belinda.chang@fifthfloorestaurant.com.

I am working on various dishes (samplings to date indicated as "Yes").

I will post by tomorrow which version I have. I bought it at Librarie Gourmand.

An interesting (and good) dinner, although one that does not leave me necessarily impressed with L Gras. I am impressed with J Beard dinners, though, after not having sampled taht many of them. An excellent value for Gras' food and for the sampling of black truffles (I've had more than I wanted), although these were large truffles from Southern France and not from the Perigord. I am not particularly experienced in J Beard events, but, if this is an indication, I will definitely report on more. Overall assessment -- why is Gras known but Portay not (Ritz Carlton, Nob Hill and a more senior pupil of Ducasse)? Assessment of Gras' food to come with more samplings, but I did indicate to Gras that I thought Portay was underrated (with the connotation perhaps that he was overrated relative to Portay?). (1) Reception: Black Truffles Croutons Veuve Clicquot Rose Brut 1996 (2 full champagne glasses) The amuses were numerous, and generously offered. I positioned myself in the best possible position for them -- in the little kitchen area on the ground floor of the James Beard house right in front of Gras and his team. Members are free to position themselves in this mini kitchen, and I stationed myself where the food was being readied for distribution. Amuses included: -- Rilettes of rabit, on a little crunchy toast, with 2 slices of black truffle (I had perhaps 3 of these, at least) -- Potato soup, in a little ceramic serving cup, with a very marked sliver of scallion on top and little diced black truffles overall (1 serving only) -- Sea bass sliver curled up, with an acidic oil, and two slices of black truffle on top (these were served in white ceramic spoons, a la Radius; I had at least 3 of these) -- Diver scallops, cut into 1/2 to form a burger-like effect, with diced black truffles between the two "slices" and two slices of black truffle on top (I had at least six half-scallops of these). Lime jus was utilized on top of the scallop pieces. This was not poor. -- Crouton with salted butter from California, two slices of black truffle on top (I had at least 3 of these) -- Foie gras section (circular in form, attached to a fork) with gelee (I had at least 3 of these; they were not appealing, due to oversalting of the gelee and the dish overall) -- Small oysters (larger than Kumamoto) with slices of black truffle on top, in their shell (I had at least 3 of these) The $100 or so price of the J Beard dinner (tax and tips included) would have been justified by the amuses alone, together with the champagne. Not that the amuses impressed me, but they were appropriate and conveyed sentiments of black truffle. I stood right in front of Gras, receiving the items as he prepared them and not losing sight of any amuses that he was preparing. This is proactiveness that is necessary for a diner interested in sampling the most of everything, and formulating an informed assessment. V-C champagne was fine. The rose was not, obviously, among the better I have had (think Grand Dame rose millisieme), but it was appropriate and I was guzzling happily away. Many members of Gras' former Peacock Alley team were on hand. A number of them were working at Daniel, and wore costumes with that label. (2) Lobster Salad -- Maine Lobster Poached in Rich Truffle Broth With Frisee Salad and Coral-Ginger Vinaigrette, Pouilly Fuisse "Clos Reyssie" Domaine de Lalande (Winemaker: Dominique Cornin) 2000 This dish featured a single curl of lobster, almost the size (and taste) of lagnoustine. Interesting saucing, with black truffle coupled with acidity. On top of the lobster was a mass of juliennes of raw vegetable (likely fennel, cut very thinly, or something similar) that had entangled within it small, small bits of black truffle. Nice elucidation of black truffles in the sauce, and, if I may commend myself, interesting utilization of squid ink in the sauce (almost taking like seaweed) which I detected. Overall, a nice dish. Lobster cooked appropriately, and an interesting dish. Decent wine pairing also. (3) Halibut Braised with Endives and Truffle, with Jurancon Sec "Cuvee Marie" Charles Hours 2001 Nice utilization of both cooked-down endives and a bit of raw endives (more bitterness, crunchier) as garnishes. Halibut was nice, and accompaniment of tapioca (softened, cooked) was interesting. Saucing was truffle and meat-stock-based, and smelled like mushrooms. Nice differentiation from truffles-based saucing of prior dish. The truffles, diced and cooked down, formed a layer atop the halibut. Nice, but not impressive in my book. Nice choice of Juracon. (4) Niman Ranch Pork Belly Poached Slowly with Black Truffle and Roasted Crispy on the Skin with Truffle Jus, with Cote du Rhone Rouge "Vieilles vignes" St Esteve 1999 An impaired dish, in realization. Very fatty, two pieces of pork belly. Fat was there, but not cooked down or luscious. Also, the skin was not crispy per se, but was still distinctive. Potato slice in thick version was nice offset to meat. Pork belly was of nice texture and flavor, and infused with truffle, but main problem with the dish was overutilization of black peppercorns -- Sarawak (spelling) from Malaysia, which are quite severe. These peppercorns overwhelmed both the aroma and the mouth feel of the black truffles, which were still present, but muted in an inappropraite way. Overall, average, although I appreciated the idea of this dish. (5) Guanaja Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse Flavored with Black Truffle and Served with Dark Berry Marmalade, with Niepoort LBV 1997 A nice dessert in a sundae glass. The chocolate mousse tasted more like milk chocolate (not a negative in my book), and had roasted nuts (perhaps peanuts) sparingly in it. At the bottom was the more interesting portion -- tapioca with a white vanilla-based cream. In that "white cream" portion, which was light, were bits of bitter orange peel. Nice effects. I enjoyed that portion of the dessert. Plantin from Puymeras, France, was, unexpectedly, the truffle supplier. The utilization of truffles was generous (reportedly 12 pounds). The quality was generally good. Overall, a strong showing by J Beard and a good value-for-money relationship. Perhaps I am being unduly harsh a critic after having sampled an all-black-truffle meal at Troisgros recently, but Gras is overrated in my mind. I will sample more of his cuisine at Fifth Floor to make an appropriate determination.

There is more than one version of the book. I only have one version, but I have seen a different version in Troisgros' gastronomic library.

Nina -- Of course; as you know, I need help. With your culinary skills, we could perhaps prepare the "extracted" items in several ways (including sauteed in butter -- as well as sashimi -- ).

col klink -- Not whole. One culinary goal I might pursue is to keep the geoduck **ive while I "help myself" to portions of it. It think this is an ideal type of shellfish for that type of sampling.

Upon inquiry, I was advised by a Jean-Georges at The Berkeley representation: "The menu has been specifically designed by Jean-Georges, incorporating dishes from both Vong and Jean-Georges."

Some official information on geoduck. http://atn-riae.agr.ca/seafood/geoduck-e.htm ("Growth-ring analysis of shells shows many individuals live for more than 100 years.") Particularly interesting is the website's information on preparing geoduck: http://www.geoduck.org/Content_Frames/recipesMAIN.html

Below are excerpts from a transcript of CNN NEWSNIGHT with Aaron Brown (January 17, 2003): BROWN: Up next on NEWSNIGHT, the man behind the $50 burger meets the man who ate one. That would be me. ... BOULUD: I think this is the *Taj Mahal* of burgers, in a way. There's multiple layers. We start with a Parmesan bun with onion seed, homemade. ... And then after, we have fresh and baked tomato, also as well in the oven. And layers of truffle between a 10-ounce burger, where, inside, it's filled with braised short ribs, cooked for hours in red wine. ... And mixed with foie gras in the center and truffle. So, the idea is that this burger, normally at DB Bistro Moderne is $29. But during the fresh truffle season, I have wonderful fresh black truffle here. During the fresh black truffle season, I boosted my burger -- because the burger is made to go very well with truffle, with the meat, and all that. ... So the truffle, of course, is $500 a pound. So, adding the truffle into the burger, it's a little bit of a bonus. BROWN: It's just a wonderful smell, the truffle. BOULUD: It's wonderful. It's very earthy. It's very unique. And I think it's quite a unique burger. BROWN: All right, a couple of quick questions. Do you think you could sell it in...Omaha, Nebraska? BOULUD: No. ... It's a New York thing. And, also, I'm a French chef. ... [Laughter] ... I am very proud to show to the French that a burger can be the greatest thing ... Grinding a patty and patting on the grill and put it between two buns don't take much of a great chef. But here, I'm very proud to have created a burger with beyond just the flavor of a burger. Once you have it, you never forget. BROWN: Seriously, do you think someone who's a reasonably good cook could whip this up at home? BOULUD: Yes. You have start by braise the short ribs... Basically, you start *two days ahead*... it's easier. BROWN: ... How many do you sell a day? Do you know? BOULUD: Well, today, we sold about -- at the restaurant at lunch, we sell about 100 burgers a day. And the DB burger royale -- which we call it royale because -- and this is only during the truffle season *until March*. And we sold about 40 percent today [note higher than the 30% in another article]. So that was amazing. I was very surprised. So, I think people love it... BROWN: And we paid for the burger, you know. We didn't take a freebie. BOULUD: I know. But the thing is, also, doing fresh white truffle, white truffles is two times to three times more expensive than black. And people will shave white truffle, plain risotto, and pay $100 for it. So, **I feel that my burger is a bargain at $50.** BROWN: It's the most wonderful taste. BOULUD: Thank you, Aaron."

marcus -- I wouldn't say I dislike Bras' cuisine, although I haven't found it compelling to date. Note that my several meals were all over the course of one visit. I plan to return after a while.