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That is correct. The powders stayed put until they were easily mixed with he agitation of the dining utensils.

Thanks! I'm not done with this yet though Romera's presentations are fantastic. Even better, they taste great too.

Thanks, smoz. Of course there is no such thing as a bad table at elBulli but that was indeed quite nicely situated! The first time at elBulli we were in a large corner nook where I actually felt comfortable using a flash as it was fairly isolated and private. This was a little bit better for observing the rest of the restaurant. The little bit at a time approach is not out of a desire to tantalize - it is simply a matter of time management as posts like these take a fair amount of time to put together. Bryan - I can say that I can't recall anything cooler ever happening to me and I have been a pretty fortunate guy in my life!

Segunda Parte Although the degustation was divided on paper into different "parts", the actual transition between the parts was seamless. Aprilis from Latin signifying the opening of spring. Shaved turnip slices formed into cylinders with the smell and taste of saffron, rose and rosemary and stuffed with a veloute of smoked white chocolate and seawater stewed scallops. This was my least favorite dish of the meal and the only one that I did not find particularly flavorful or particularly enjoy. Alsos from the Greek meaning sacred forests. Transparent "Lasagneta" of black truffle with queso fresco, dried cereals and twelve fresh micro-herbs cultivated in their greenhouse. Added at the end was black truffle water that had been flambeed with truffle alcohol. This beautiful dish was our introduction to Romera's two main elements - Constructionism and Micri. Over the past year or two the forest and its products seems to have received unusual emphasis in the world of haute cuisine. This was Romera's offering in this vein and a great one it was as not only was it beautiful it was delicious and evocative of the forest accomplishing the difficult feat of actually transporting the diner to an idealized place - in this case a forest meadow on a dewey spring morning. Unda from Latin meaning "smell of the sea." A transparent "suquet" of shellfish and fish overlaid upon "laminates" of fish and shellfish lacquered with seaweed, gold crystals and Madagascan white pepper flavored "micrifilm". Simply delicious and perfectly cooked this dish needed no additional accoutrements to transport the diner to the sea. This may have been my favorite dish of the meal and one of the best of the entire trip. Teres from Romano meaning "tender, fine and delicate". Fine, velvety purees of greens with beet, turnip, tomato, leek, spinach, chard and carrot along with a transparent puree of old potatoes from the Andes accompanied a scallop in orange papillote and crunchy sea vegetables, with a perfume of flowers and spices. This complex dish harmoniously wove together its myriad parts into a unified whole that simply tasted good. The individual ingredients other than the scallop were not readily apparent. Isis from Egypt the personification of the fecundity of nature. A mosaic carpet of dried vegetables lining their own hearts of vegetables in a Micri- butter sauce and a vegetable broth. This dish was simply brilliant in every respect.

We were led to a large, comfortable and well lit table in a corner of the main dining room. Pistachio Sponge cake with Yuzu and Sesame Sponge Cake. we were instructed to eat the pistachio cake with yuzu cream first to be followed by the sesame cake. I was starting to get full from all the snacks and this course hit me at a bad time as a result. It was fine, but not one of my favorites or one of the more memorable courses of the night. Horchata Flowers. This frozen treat was quite refreshing, reminding me of a delicious not-too-sweet horchata that my wife and I had in Valencia with Rogelio and his wife a few days earlier. It helped to rejuvenate my stomach and my palate for at least a few courses. Papel de Flores This compressed parchment was composed of floral cotton candy that was muted in its sweetness. Light and airy it was pure flavor. The photos above are meant to convey the process of peeling the "paper" from its presentation base. For a prettier photo of the paper itself see Smoz' post above. Peanut and Curry and Mandarin Bonbons. Flavorful morsels, the curried peanut bonbon provided a nice flavor combination with the curry bridging well to the mandarin. Raspberry Fondant with raspberry Vinegar. This dish was addressed well by smoz above. This was the last of a fruit and flora tapas part of the meal. Subsequent dishes evolved into a more substantial purely savory portion of the meal.

Great report, Si and Hanna. I am thoroughly enjoying it. I'm sorry that you were underwhelmed y WD-50. Though I didn't share your opinion of the food there, I understand from whence you come as my wife and I had a similar experience at a highly touted vanguardista restaurant in Spain - El Poblet. The food was beautiful but in general we felt as if the taste and enjoyment of the dishes was less than the sum of the parts that went into it. I'm not of the mindset that a creative dish need be better than its parts or alternatives, but it should be at least as good with the manipulation itself making points for wit or real creativity. That is where I think the creativity at WD-50 really succeeds.

If you listen to Santi Santamaria, Can Fabes is the polar opposite to elBulli. I don't buy it. The plating style and sense of experimentation are different and Adria is more willing to explore ingredients from the rest of the world, but both chefs are, in fact, highly creative basing their work on their native Catalan cuisine. Gagnaire's work and Adria's are not directly comparable. Each is quite unique and personal, although I would venture to say that at this point in time Adria has more imitators. Nevertheless, I have never encountered anyone else to do what Adria does as well as he does. It remains my favorite restaurant in my experience. Early in the season elBulli does serve lunch on Sundays instead of dinner. That would be a good option in lieu of dinner if you didn't want to stay in Roses, although Roses is not a bad place to stay. We had reasonable off-season rates at a hotel considering that it is currently off-season. While the hotel, The Goya Park is no great shakes, at 48 Euros per night (internet rate) it was fine as a place to sleep for a few hours. elBulli is a unique and wonderful experience. I would recommend continuing to try to get a reservation. The next time to try for 2008 will be around October 15th.

The books are essentially a history of the cuisine of Ferran Adria at elBulli. Which one book to choose would depend upon which era you are most interested in emulating. The most recent is the best for explaining his most recent techniques. It also incorporates the most recent publishing technology. If I had to choose one it would be the 2003-2004.

Miguel Sanchez Romera is particularly known for a couple of aspects of his cooking. The first is "Constructionism" in which he builds a plate in front of the guest with different layers of product and ingredient. The process will be evident as i go through the meal. The second is the development of a food product called Micri, taken from the yucca plant. This is a gelling substance with multiple uses and forms. It is taste neutral and clear of color so it is eminently moldable in form and flavor. Its presence was of major import throughout our meal. The subsequent posts show the menu as planned and named by Romera. Primera Parte Our table setting. The charger. Each place was illuminated by an overhead halogen light trained on the place to highlight the food. The Centerpiece. The menu. There is no choice. The menu is set, although I am sure substitutions are available upon request. Eiro from the Greek signifying the start. This is a cup of spring with extra virgin olive oil from hojiblanca, picual and arbosana olives, pistachio and mint puree, "thought" flowers, rose water and mini-fried potatoes. This was a fine start and a creative, unique and beautiful way to provide bread service with olive oil. Our wine. This was an excellent match for most of the meal. Odran from German indicating richness and jewelry. Thin potato slices made into forms of a gnoccho and a raviolo with sea flavors with a mayonaisse of seaweed, thyme leaves and a rose sweet and sour sauce. Unusual and tasty. Nimma from the Greek signifying water that purifies. This dish was composed of transparent cold fideos served with conch and smoked trout eggs as well as dried flowers from their greenhouse in a seaweed soup with a curry of flowers, fruit, greens and spices. As with all of the dishes it was visually arresting and delicious. I would venture to say that it was also quite nutritious though i don't have any data to support that assertion.

Truly great work, Harlan. I am awed!

Miguel Sanchez Romera, an Argentine-born practicing Neurologist cum chef appears to be a bit of an outsider in the world of Spanish cuisine. The world of Spanish chefs or cocineros as they prefer to be called is a generally tight knit one with essentially all knowing each other. Even the apparent feuds as between Santi Santamaria and the Adrian Vanguardistas are based upon a rivalry borne of different approaches and familiarity. Not so much with Romera. His work is downplayed by at least some cocineros who haven't even tried it. Though I don't know the answer, i suspect that for whatever reason there is a mutual distrust or misunderstanding in the usually wide-open Spanish kitchens. When I presented my planned itinerary to one chef, he thought that everything would be outstanding except for L'Esguard which would likely be the low-point of our trip. he had never been there and couldn't have been more wrong as L'Esguard proved to be sensational. The restaurant is set in a very old Catalan masia or farmhouse in the coastal town of Sant Andreu de Llavaneres, a scant 35 kilometers outside of Barcelona. Upon arrival, a hostess was awaiting us at the door. It was a brilliant Sunday afternoon and the approach to the restaurant was relaxing and beautiful. rather than whisk us immediately to our table she took us on a brief tour of the masia including the wine and cheese cellars as well as a curing room for hams including pigeon "hams." Part of the climate controlled wine cellar. Pata negra. Pigeon "hams." A Culinary library. Yours truly in the bottom of the cheese cave (literally). There are several levels of the cave with different cheeses ripening at each level. To be continued...

Very cool, Harlan! Thanks for sharing them. I look forward to more. The photo of Chef Achatz is particularly great as it captures the tension of the moment.

You recall correctly. I may have to give those fine folks a call soon.

Here are photos and comments from the "Snacks" portion of our meal, which were served to us while sitting at the table in the kitchen as we were filmed entering the restaurant and sitting down for this portion of the meal. Apparently the video was broadcast on Spanish national tv a few days ago as I received word from friends who saw it and recognized us! A fair question might be how I managed to get this reservation since I did not get one through thee usual Oct. 15th email channel. In fact I had been turned down at that time. For one thing, not knowing my schedule, I was unable to give a firm time upon my initial request so I was not in the least bit surprised that I had been turned down. Of course, even if I did give a firm time, the likelihood was that I still would have been turned down just out of sheer numbers and probability. In any case, the entire reason for my trip and the way I wound up at elBulli was a direct result of last November's "Spain and the World Table" conference that was part of the CIA/Greystone's amazing "World of Flavor" annual food conferences. While there I had the opportunity to view several of Ferran's demonstrations from close-up and had the opportunity to chat with him. When I half-jokingly told him that alas, I did not get a reservation this year, he suggested that I email him at the beginning of April to see if anything had come available. I did and they did - on my birthday no less! As a result of the Conference my wife and I were returning to Spain regardless of a reservation at elBulli or not, but when it came through that certainly was the icing on the cake. I was happy enough to have my reservation and chance again to dine at elBulli, but when we walked in and discovered the additional honor and attention, I nearly died. For obvious reasons I could not chronicle our entry. I will just have to rely on my poor memory for that. I did bring some photos that I took at Greystone as gifts for Ferran, which I presented to him upon our arrival. Some of our Catalan friends at the table with the television camera observing us right back. An unparalleled photo opportunity and an incredible birthday present. Juli Soler presenting me with a wonderful bottle of cava. Kripta Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2001. Juli Soler said that it would certainly be the best bottle of cava that we would have that day. It was and much more than that! Mango Leaves with Tagete Flowers. Much has already been said about these lovely delights. The mango flavor was exceptional. Pepitas de Oro or "Golden Nuggets". These were curried crunchies with a fine, clean flavor and good crunch. Fun. Catanias Saladas or "Salty Catanias". these were an elBulli version of a classic Catalan chocolate-almond bon-bon. Though somewhat bitter on their own, they married perfectly with the following dish when eaten either directly before or after. Beetroot/Yoghurt meringue/profiteroles Light with an airy sweetness, they captured the flavor essence of the perfect beet. When combined with the Salty Catanias the result was synergistic. Fritas de Fruta These pineapple "fries" tasted better than the best pineapple while supplying the wonder of how they managed to do it in the first place. Alfajenjes These citrus balls were delicious, but I can not figure out what exactly "alfajenjes" are. Rice and Parmesan Cookies More wizardry, the flavors and textural contrast were right on. Delicious. This part of the meal is given over to whimsy and technical prowess and play. It was fun, stimulating and delicious. If only I didn't eat so much in my excitement! We were then led to our table in the main dining room to complete our meal.

An instant classic. This one just started, but is extremely informative and well done. Thanks, Johnnyd!

Another question: Does the processing break many mussel shells?

Great job, Johnny! This has been an absolutely fabulous tour. Thank you. It has certainly made me hungry for mussels. Do you know where and how these specific mussels can be sourced?

They have done a tremendous job. I have written letters through them. I believe that they are an organization worth supporting.

Too bad. I always thought that the downstairs room was pretty cool.

I abhor foods and meals that are too sweet. I love Alinea. I have never found that to be a problem there, but then it is almost a year since I was last there. I find it hard to believe that it has changed that much in that time though. Melkor either hit a bad night or we have very different views on the food at Alinea. That happens.

My wife and I visited Ca Sento on May 2nd, the day after they had been closed for May Day. Though they lacked a few different mariscos (eg percebes from Galicia) they still had most of the things I had been hoping for. We ordered the degustation for lunch. A number of the dishes were the same as Rogelio had with a few different (none of the ones he didn't care for). All were exceptional and like Gerry Dawes this meal was a highlight not only of this trip, but perhaps one of the finest of my life. The seafood was pristine and expertly prepared and even the lone meat dish was superb. The service was absolutely perfect. Though room itself was comfortable, though I agree with Rogelio that it is not the finest in Spain . More to come with photos when I get the chance.

People have a tendency to see one thing and fixate on that for better or worse.

You have good reason to be excited Victor. I'm afraid that I won't be able to get much if anything else up before Thursday. You will likely have some of the same dishes that we had, but then a number will probably be different as well. Enjoy!

Here's a tease - our menu:

I love Spain and its various sections. I love the food. I love the scenery and I love the people. I have had the pleasure and good fortune to visit parts of the country several times over recent years and certainly looked forward to going back at some point in the not-to-distant future. That is until this conference which whet the appetite for a return for both my wife and myself that simply couldn't wait too long. This past weekend we returned from an all too brief, but very intense culinary tour de force to Catalunya and the Community of Valencia. I will use this topic to relate a few observations. Spain has become known for its inventive modern cuisine manifest most visibly to the world by Ferran Adria and elBulli. The incredible level of creativity of that restaurant and others, I am happy to say, continues. It does so, but the quality, degree and recognition of Spain's traditional cuisines have assumed greater prominence in the imaginations of both the chefs and the public than I recall from recent visits. For the most part, the cuisines exist in harmony with respect for both approaches and in many cases harmonious co-existence within the same restaurant or in the work of the same chef in sister restaurants. An example of the former is El Poblet, Quique Dacosta's vanguard haven in Denia in Alicante. While Dacosta's degustation menu is decidedly vanguardist, his regular menu is strong on tradition and pristine ingredients. An example of the latter is Maria Jose San Roman's neighboring restaurants, Monastrell and La Taberna in the city of Alicante. Though not unabashedly vanguardist, Monastrell is creative alta cocina retaining respect for local tradition. La Taberna is unabashedly traditional. Ca Sento in Valencia has been described under the helm of Raul Alexeindre as a "vanguardist" haven. Though Aleixandre has great respect for his mentor Adria, I saw straightforward, beautiful presentations of traditional cuisine with an emphasis on spurity and simplicity. The meal was outstanding, the highlights of which were a cigala a la plancha on a bed of salt and a crab and shrimp based fideua. Yet the vanguardists, including Adria and Joan Roca continue to create marvelous and delicious dishes. These dishes, while still offering exotic ingredients and not lacking in the technical innovations that both chefs have become known for are clearly based on their own Catalan and Spanish traditions. Dishes were loaded with local ingredients and acknowledgment of local culinary traditions. Perhaps Roca's most discussed recent dish - "Mar y Montaña" - an oyster "sauced lightly with a distillate of local "earth" is the best example of this. Surf and turf is a classic Catalan composition with this being a natural offshoot of that tradition. The minerals from the earth are supposed to provide the same component to the oyster as a great wine match like a flinty Chablis. I had the dish and it worked! I enjoyed the combination even if it may not become my favorite mode of eating the bivalves. It tasted good, it made me think and it made me laugh. What more can one ask for from alta cucina? Though the vanguard remains strong and creativity continues to be a prominent aspect throughout Spanish culture, the continued and perhaps even exalted quality of the more traditional culinary components of Spanish cooking such as seafood and pork has become ever more in demand. This is true despite an obvious increase in cost of enjoying these delicacies. This is particularly true of seafood as supply pressures are becoming more obvious with extremely high prices for items that were perhaps more readily available a few years ago. Our trip took us through the highest circles of Catalan Vanguard cooking and traditional cuisines. In a week we made it to elBulli, Can Roca, L'Esguard, Kiosk Universal, Aligue and the home of friends in Catalunya; and Levante, Casa Montaña, El Poblet, Ca Sento, Monastrell and Taberna in Valencia/Alicante. We had great tastes of both the vanguard and the traditional. I for one, am glad that both types of cooking exist and especially there, where they co-exist so well. It makes life and dining so much more interesting and fun.